Cálem Port Cellar Tour & Lunch at Uva

During my trip to Portugal last fall, we stayed for a few nights at the Yeatman Hotel in Vila Nova de Gaia, which is across the Douro River from Porto. Gaia is the location of numerous Port Houses, the places where they age their wines, and you can visit and tour many of these Houses. You can learn much about Port wine here, and experience Ports of which you aren't familiar, such as aged White Ports. During our stay in Gaia, we made a stop at Cálem for a brief tour. 

Cálem was founded in 1859 by António Alves Cálem, who desired to export wines to Brazil, which was not the typical market at that time for such wines. Britain and other European countries were the primary markets, but there was a significant Portuguese population in Brazil, so Cálem's idea had merit. 

In 1998, the Spanish-owned company Sogevinus was established and its first purchase was Cálem. It would later purchase other Port producers, including Burmester, Kopke, and Barros. Sogevinus concentrates on Port Wine, and in 2020, about 7.8 Million bottles of their annual production of 8.8 Million were Port. In addition, their Cálem Velhotes brand is the top seller in Portugal, accounting for about 25% of all Port sales. That's a huge portion of the market!

Cálem owns about 33,000 acres of land in the Douro, including 3 high-quality, A-1 vineyards. As they need more grapes than they grow, they also purchase grapes from other growers. Cálem annually exports about 12 Million bottles to around 50 countries. Their symbol is a caravel, a small sailing ship which was popular from the 15th-17th centuries.  

At Cálem, you can first visit their small museum, which deals with the Douro region and Port production, a good way to learn some basic information about this fascinating region.  The official tour then begins with a 4 minute movie and you're given special glasses to wear so you can see some special effects during the film. In addition, the seats vibrate at times, creating more of an immersive experience. 

After the short movie, the tour moves into the cellars, and I'll note that the Cálem cellars are even older than the winery's founding in 1859. I'll also note that most Cálem wines are not made in lagares, except for some special still wines, and Cálem doesn't produce aged White Ports. The winery uses about 14 white grapes and 15 red grapes for their wines. And their last Vintage Port was in 2020.  

One of your first stops in the cellar was in front of one of their great vats, which can hold 74,000 liters of wine. These huge barrels take 8 coopers about two weeks to construct, and we saw a vat that had been made in 1917. It was very cool that the winery showed a number of lighted displays on the great vat. I thought this was a fascinating and memorable way to educate people about the winery and Port wine. The addition of this visual display enhanced the tour, making it better than simply a dry recitation of the facts.

The tour comes from a wine tasting, but we skipped the tasting as we were headed to a Port tasting at the nearby Kopke store.

At the end of your tour at Cálem, you can stop at their store, where you can purchase Port and Still wines to bring home. The Cálem 1961 Colheita Port is the oldest wine they have available for sale. I would definitely recommend a tour of Cálem if you visit Vila Nova de Gaia. 

After our tasting at Kopke, we were invited by the winery to have lunch at Uva By Cálem, which is located on the banks of the Douro River (providing some great views). The restaurant opened in 2019 and is headed by Chef António Vieira. It has a casual elegance and the menu is diverse, with dishes to appeal to any preferences.

We started off lunch with the 2022 São Luiz Rosé, made from the Tinta Coa grape sourced from the São Luiz vineyard in the Douro, which is owned by Kopke. With an appealing aroma, this Rosé was delicious, elegant and subtle, dry and crisp. Tasty flavors of red fruits, some floral hints, and a backbone of minerality. Easy drinking but not overly simple, and an excellent way to begin our lunch.

Our first course was slices of Seared Tuna, which were tender and flavorful, and the dish looked beautiful as well. The sesame seeds added a nice textural component, and the roe added a taste of the sea.

Our second wine was the 2020 São Luiz Reserva Tinto, made from a blend of red grapes, and it too was delicious. Fruity, with flavors of red and black fruits, a hint of spice and a touch of smoke. Good acidity, a pleasant finish, and smooth tannins. Neither of the two São Luiz wines are yet available in the U.S., but the Tinto may be in the near future.  

Our second course were tender and tasty Slices of Beef, accompanied by a vegetable mix and crisp French fries. The dish went well with the red wine. 

Dessert was a rich and decadent Chocolate Brownie with berries and a raspberry sorbet. We enjoyed a 2008 Kopke Colheita Port with dessert, which was nicely sweet, with delicious flavors of caramel, nuts, vanilla and baking spices. 

Rant: Reservation Cancelations & No-Shows

Consider this hypothetical: 

You're a business owner. A customer makes an appointment with you, to avail themselves of your services, and you will be paid for that appointment. Because of that appointment, you turn down other paying customers who wanted to see you at that same time. You also purchase supplies to handle your customer's needs during that appointment. 

However, when the appointment time arrives,  your customer doesn't show up, and doesn't even call to tell you they won't be there. Thus, you don't get paid, and you have extra supplies which you might not be able to use with another customer. If the customer had given you reasonable notice that they could not keep the appointment, you might have been able to get someone else to fill that appointment. You'd probably be upset at that no-show customer, and justifiably so.

Unfortunately, that situation happens far too frequently in the restaurant industry. Numerous customers make reservations but then never show up for those reservations, and may not even call to say they won't be there. It might seem to some people to be an innocuous harm, thus providing justification for their cavalier attitude, but that isn't the case. It can have a significant financial effect on that restaurant, on everyone from the owner to the servers. And this discourteous act needs to stop.

Over the holidays, I know one local restaurant where over 25 people with reservations were no-shows! This is a relatively small restaurant so that many no-shows has a significant impact. I've also heard of other restaurants over the holidays which also had far too many no-shows and last minute cancellations. Even some restaurants which ask for a deposit face this problem.

Restaurants often operate on thin margins and no-show reservations hurt their bottom line, especially if someone doesn't call to say they won't be showing up. Other potential customers may get turned away because of that reservation. Servers, who rely on tips, won't earn as much money because of the no-shows. A no-show is definitely not a victimless activity and it needs to stop. Where is basic courtesy and etiquette? You wouldn't like it to occur to you, so why do it to others?

Some people make multiple reservations for the same day and time, and then, frequently at the last minute, choose which restaurant to visit, failing to call the other restaurants that they won't be there. Stop doing that! Yes, there are a few legitimate reasons why you might need to no-show at a reservation, from medical to family issues, but a simple phone call to the restaurant is still warranted. Have the courtesy to notify the reservation of your cancelation, and give them as much advance notice as possible. Give them a chance to get someone else to take your reservation time.  

And if you have to cancel your reservation or are a no-show, try to make it up by making a new reservation for the restaurant, and then honoring that reservation. 

Stop being so self-absorbed and thinking only of your own needs and wants. Give consideration to how your actions affect other people. Failing to show up for a reservation and not even calling to cancel is a selfish act. Start thinking about how such actions could negatively impact the restaurant and its employees. We need more people to be courteous, to consider others. And we need people to be more courteous not just in this situation, but in all aspects of life. 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) On Monday, January 15, Legal Sea Foods is celebrating its own “Legal” holiday, “Chowda Day,” offering cups of its New England Clam Chowder for just $1. On January 16, the restaurant is also launching its first-ever, limited-time offer where rewards members will receive a FREE Maine Lobster Roll when purchasing one of the iconic rolls at regular price.  

Legal Sea Foods’ “Chowda Day” returns, following City Council President, Ed Flynn’s official proclamation in Boston last year. Proceeds from “Chowda Day” will be donated to support life-saving research at Boston Children’s Hospital. New this year, Legal is celebrating Chowda Day online too at Shop Legal Sea Foods - where customers can order and ship two quarts of chowder anywhere in the U.S. for just $20. The brand hopes to break the all-time “Chowda Day” record of over 9,000 cups ordered and calls on chowder fans to help hit 10,000 cups this year.

The fundraising event is just one of the various initiatives Legal Sea Foods is dedicated to in its ongoing commitment to supporting groundbreaking work at Boston Children’s Hospital. The brand also holds an annual gift card fundraiser to directly benefit Boston Children’s Hospital and Dr. Leonard Zon’s zebrafish lab, which is a part of Boston Children’s Stem Cell Program. In 2023, Legal Sea Foods donated $100,000 of proceeds raised directly from “Chowda Day” and gift card promotion to advance the hospital’s groundbreaking research efforts.

"We extend heartfelt appreciation for the commitment and invaluable backing poured forth by Legal Sea Foods over the last 30 years. We take pride in our enduring alliance and are eager to see what’s on the horizon," expressed Mike Bornhorst, Vice President, Corporate Development, Leadership Giving and Special Events, Boston Children’s Hospital.

Starting January 16, Legal Net Reward members at Legal Sea Foods can receive a FREE half pound Maine Lobster Roll. For the first time ever, the restaurant is offering a buy-one-get-one-free offer. This signature New England-style dish is loaded with a half pound of Maine lobster meat and served traditionally with lemon mayo and chives or warm butter-poached on top of a perfectly grilled bun. The BOGO promotion is only available to its Legal Net Rewards program members. Diners have until January 31 to sign up online by creating an account at legalseafoods.com/loyalty/, downloading the new Legal Net Rewards app, or in-restaurant by scanning a QR code. This is a limited time offer and will be gone after January 31st.

2) Valentine's Day Dinner! Chef Will Gilson and the Puritan & Co. team will be serving up a five-course dinner on February 14th for $95 per person. Menu options will include choices such as Maine mussels toast, seared halloumi, squash risotto, ricotta gnocchis, steak frites, swordfish, and lemon vanilla posset. The full beverage menu will be available in-house for purchase, as well. For the complete menu or to make a reservation, please visit HERE. 

3) Valentine's Day Dinner! Chef Robert Sisca and the Bistro du Midi team will be serving up a romantic, five-course, French-inspired prix fixe menu on February 14th for $175 per person with an optional wine pairing for $90. Please see HERE to make a reservation. 

4) Valentine's Day Dinner! Chef Michael Serpa and the Little Whale Oyster Bar team will be offering a $75 three-course prix fixe menu. Additionally oysters, shrimp cocktail, dressed lobster and caviar service will be available a la carte in addition to a $65 wine pairing to complement the prix fixe menu.

5) Valentine's Day Dinner! Chef Michael Serpa and the Select Oyster Bar team will be offering a $75 three-course prix fixe menu. Additionally oysters, shrimp cocktail, dressed lobster and caviar service will be available a la carte in addition to a $65 wine pairing to complement the prix fixe menu.

Non-Rant: Food/Drink Friends

"There is nothing on this earth more to be prized than true friendship."
--Thomas Aquinas 

As 2024 begins, I want to add some positivity rather than start the New Year with any negativity. I want to highlight an important aspect of food and drink, one which you may know about but one which you might not give enough thought. As I recently reviewed my food and drink experiences of 2023, selecting my Favorites of the past year, there was a common element which I didn't highlight in those end-of-the-year articles. 

That common element is friendship.

It is a given that the circumstances surrounding us when we eat and drink will affect our perception of that food and drink. If you're vacationing in Europe, drinking local wine at a picturesque cafe, you'll probably think the wine is stunning, partially a reaction to your amazing surroundings. If you had that same wine at a dirty, noisy and crowded little restaurant, you might not enjoy it as much. Besides your surroundings, the people with you at the time will also play a role in your enjoyment. When you are dining with the people you most love, those closest to you, you're more likely to have a better experience.

As I have repeatedly said before, good food and drink is even better when shared. My best dining and drinking experiences have always been with good friends and/or family. I sincerely hope that you have at least one good friend who enhances your own dining and drinking experiences. As this new year begins, maybe you should thank those friends for enriching your life. I also hope that you do the same for your own friends, making their own food and drink taste better. Appreciate the friends in your lives and make your life even better. Without friends, your life is empty and shallow.

On Facebook, I posted a link to my recent article, 10 New Year's Resolutions For My Readers, and one of the comments I received was from food-lover Gary Goldblatt. He stated, "Good list that covers all the bases. If there’s one thing I’d add, it’s to be a better food friend: invite people to try a cuisine or item you’re familiar with and they are not. And, as I’ve quipped before, use your food knowledge as a bridge, not as a wall. While it’s great to have that knowledge, it doesn’t make you better than the rest. But sharing that knowledge with the rest does make you better. 

That's an excellent addition, dovetailing well into this post. Sharing your knowledge of food and drink is beneficial for many reasons. It will enhance your own experiences, as well as those who dine and drink with you. I love introducing people to new foods and drinks, providing them interesting information to make them a better educated consumer. We need more people to do so, rather than keep their food and drink knowledge to themselves. I'll note that Gary is a fine food bridge, always open to sharing his food knowledge with others, and I have benefited from his shared information in the past. 

Cherish your food and drink friends, and try to be a better one yourself. 

"Friendship improves happiness and abates misery, by the doubling of our joy and the dividing of our grief."
--Marcus Tullius Cicero 

National Whipped Cream Day: Its Origins, Aaron Lapin & Reddi-Wip

Who doesn't love whipped cream? 

It tops so many different desserts and dishes, from a mound atop an ice cream sundae to a dollop atop a Belgian waffle. You'll find it atop hot chocolate and frappes, creme brûlée and bread pudding, and so much more. I'm certainly a huge fan of whipped cream, especially home-made, though I won't turn down almost any type.

Today, let us celebrate National Whipped Cream Day, giving even more love to this tasty treat! I haven't been able to pin down the exact origins of this holiday, but its first known reference extends back at least to the end of 1983, forty years ago. The earliest reference I found (mentioned in a late 1983 newspaper) was to a calendar, The 1984 Calendar of Self Indulgence, by Sandra Boynton. The calendar listed numerous food holidays, including National Whipped Cream Day, which was celebrated on January 5. 

Did Sandra actually invent this holiday, and maybe other food holidays, just to fill up her calendar with interesting items? It's possible, although I haven't found anything yet to confirm it. In addition, it's likely that this holiday is connected in some respect to Aaron Lapin, the creator of Reddi-Wip, the first canned whipped cream. It seems more than coincidental that National Whipped Cream Day occurs on Aaron's birthday.

Whipped cream has existed at least as far back as the 16th century, although it wasn't called "whipped cream" until the late 17th century. Although the Oxford English Dictionary claims the first use of the term "whipped cream" was in 1673, I found an earlier reference. In The Closet of the Eminently Learned Sir Kenelme Digbie Kt. Opened, an English cookbook from 1669, there was a recipe for Crème Fouettée, the French term for "whipped cream." However, within the recipe, it was also referred to as "whipped cream." The passage stated, "If you would have your whipped cream light and frothy, ..." 

It's also interesting to note that the recipe called for the sweet thick cream to be whipped with "...white hard rushes (of such as they make whisks to brush coats) tied together,.." This use of branches and such was apparently common for at least a couple centuries. The metal whisk wouldn't be invented until around 1840. 

The 20th century would see the significant influence of technology on this sweet whipped topping, and Aaron Lapin spearheaded those changes. 

Who was Aaron Lapin?

The St. Louis Post-Dispatch (MO), January 5, 1951, provided an abundance of information about Lapin, with The Los Angeles Times (CA), July 13, 1999, adding some additional details. Aaron Soffer Lapin was born on January 5, 1914, and as January 5 is National Whipped Cream Day, it's very likely the date was chosen by the inventor of this holiday to honor Lapin's birthday, especially considering his significant contribution to the whipped cream industry.

Lapin graduated from the University of Missouri, Columbia, and then attended the Washington University Law School. It was during this time that he acquired the nickname "Bunny" as his friends realized that his surname, Lapin, meant "rabbit" in French. However, in 1935, Lapin decided not to take the bar exam, and become a lawyer, but instead chose to work in his father’s clothing business. Certainly a major change in careers, and he probably couldn't have predicted the major changes that would come to his career. 

 

As a brief note, the Chula Vista Star (CA), June 24, 1932, reported on a new local product, Sta-Whip, a "healthful vegetable gelatin mixture." It was being marketed by C.C. Inskeep, a scientist and prominent Chula Vista business man. “The new product is decidedly unique in that it may be used with evaporated milk as well as cream and its use as an agent for whipping cream that ‘stays whipped’ is said to be unsurpassed.” In addition, the article noted, “It has the advantage of having a sweet taste only, so there is no conflict with the most delicate flavors of the food in which it is used.” It was apparently a product that made whipped cream last longer. 

In 1941, after six years in the clothing business, Lapin traveled to Chicago, to see Mark Lipsky, his brother-in-law, who worked in the milk business. While there, he met Thom Saehlin, a salesman who selling Sta-Whip. They talked for a time, with Lapin quite intrigued about the product. Finally, Lapin decided to buy Saehlin out, taking everything, including the formula for Sta-Whip. 

Unfortunately, during World War II, whipped cream was rarely made as it usually required a minimum of 30% butterfat. War time restrictions prevented the production of cream over 19% butterfat, making it far more difficult, if not impossible, to make whipped cream. Sta-Whip though could be used instead of the butterfat, and was also much cheaper. Lapin concluded a deal with the Valley Farm Dairy to make the Sta-Whip, and then Lapin would sell it, with them splitting the profits.  

The Sta-Whip started selling well, and he even sold a franchise to make Sta-Whip. There were some negative issues though. Some legal restrictions arose and there were problems with the heat during the summer. Lapin tried to overcome these problems, and one of his experiments was to use a drug store gun to spray out the Sta-Whip. This idea obsessed Lapin, who decided to go the next step, to design a throwaway spray gun. 

In December 1947, he started approached the largest can manufacturers with the idea of creating canned, whipped cream, but they told him it was impossible. However, he eventually convinced Knapp-Monarch Co, St. Louis, an appliance manufacturer, to produce the item. “In due time, a special valve came forth which traps the gas that whips the cream inside the can and forces it our as you want it.” What was in the can? “The can you buy contains only cream of 30% butterfat content, the Redd-Wip stabilizer, some vanilla and so-called whipping cream gas.”

Thus, in 1948, Lapin formed a corporation, Reddi-Wip, Inc., with Mark Lipsky, each owning 50% of the stock, although they took on a third partner too, Lou Lang who contributed  $15,000 to the company. Lapin filed for a patent (pictured above) for his new dispensing container for "fluffed cream." And for a number of years, their whipped product would more often be referred to as "fluffed cream" rather than "whipped cream."

The St. Louis Globe-Democrat (MO), July 6, 1948, reported on the new product, canned whipped cream from Reddi-Wip, Inc., which would soon be available from licensed dairies. The whipped cream would last for two weeks, if refrigerated, making it convenient to use at any time. 

This might be the first newspaper advertisement for the new Reddi-Wip. The St. Louis Globe-Democrat (MO), July 22, 1948, printed an ad for Reddi-Wip, which noted it sold for 43 cents a can. Contrary to the prior article, the ad stated it stayed good only for one week, not two, in the refrigerator, and other articles around this time would repeat that it only lasted one week. 

There was a legal notice in The State (SC), November 30, 1948, where Aaron Lapin, on behalf of Redd-Wip, Inc, which was headquartered in St. Louis, Missouri, applied for a trademark.

In Life Magazine, September 26, 1949, there was an ad for Reddi-Wip. The ad stated the cans were 7 ounces, and could provide almost a quart of whipped cream, which they considered to be "about 31 generous servings." The ad also stated Reddi-Wip was a "boon to busy housewives" and that "Men love the extra glamor that Reddi-Wip gives to plain desserts." There was also a warning that consumers should only get genuine Reddi-Wip, and not any of the imitators. 

In the course of three years, the Reddi-Wip business boomed and they had an annual income of $7 Million, producing about 40 million cans each year. They also had 52 licensed plants in the U.S. and Canada producing Redd-Wip with their formula, as well as employing about 750 people across the country. 

Lapin claimed that whipped cream consumption had doubled since Reddi-Wip first came on the market. The St. Louis Post-Dispatch also stated “Even embittered competitors cannot deny that in three short years this upstart from St. Louis has become the king of sweet white fluff.” Canned whipped cream was a game-changer so it's only appropriate that National Whipped Cream Day takes place on Lapin's birthday. 

Making your own whipped cream isn't difficult but using a can of Reddi-Wip is so much easier, and there's no mixing bowl to later clean. In addition, who hasn't sprayed a can of whipped cream directly into their mouth? I have done so on multiple occasions, and probably will do it again in the future. Interestingly, Cool Whip is currently the most popular whipped dessert topping, and Reddi-Wip is now in second place. However, I'd much rather have Reddi-Wip than Cool Whip.  

What's your favorite dessert topped with whipped cream?

(Updated/revised from a prior post.)