SakeOne: Craft Sake In Oregon

What strikes me most about the above picture of ancient sake brewing are the happy workers, the smiles on most of their faces. Many of the workers are using long poles to mix the yeast starter, also called the moto or shubo, and waiting for the natural lactic acid in the air to fall into the tubs.  This is referred to as the kimoto style and was the predominant method until the start of the twentieth century.  Around 1909 A.D., the sokujo method became the norm, where a pure lactic acid was added to the moto, rather than waiting for what naturally existed. This saved time and effort, as well as being less risky. But there are still some breweries that practice the traditional kimoto style, and it is actually one of my favorite styles of sake.

The kimoto style is very labor intensive, and monotonous, yet the workers depicted in the picture are apparently happy, taking pride in their labors. They understand the artisan nature of their work, and look forward to the wonderful sake that will be born of their labors. Such workers even sang while they worked, special brewing songs called sake-tzukuri uta. Not only did these songs help to relieve the monotony of some of their work, but they also assisted in proper timing, just as ancient mariners used music to help the timing of their rowers.

This picture, and three similar ones, are located on an exterior wall of the SakeOne kura (sake brewery) in Forest Grove, Oregon, about 25 miles west of Portland. As you enter the brewery, you cannot but help to think of these workers, their ancient brewing methods, and the artisan work that was once done. It is very inspiring.

When I realized I was going to visit Portland, I knew that I had to visit SakeOne. How could any sake lover not want to visit a sake brewery? Plus, I was familiar with many of their sakes, though it had been several years since I had drank many of their Momokawa products except for their Organic Nigori. In fact, at a number of the sake tastings I have held during the past year, I selected their Organic Nigori as one of my choices.

I remained in Portland a couple extra days after the Travel Oregon press trip so that I could visit the brewery. Dewey Weddington, the Vice President of Marketing for SakeOne, personally led me on a tour of the brewery, as well as showing me some of the other sake sights of Portland (which I have previously written about). Dewey was a fine host, personable and down to earth, and he allowed me access to all part of the brewery as well as leading me through a tasting of their domestic sakes.

The history of SakeOne extends back almost twenty years.  In 1992, SakeOne, under the name Japan America Beverage Co., established a partnership with Momokawa Brewing Japan, a Japanese kura which has been producing sake since 1889. They began as an importer but eventually constructed their own brewery and in October of 1998, changed their name to SakeOne. Toji, sake brew masters, from Momokawa assisted in the design of the brewery. In addition, Yoshio Koizumi, the Executive Managing Director and Chief of Production of Momokawa, trained the SakeOne brewer, Greg Lorenz.

Unfortunately, I did not get to meet Greg as he was away during my visit. I did though get to meet Juan Hernandez, the Assistant Brewer, and watched him at work during part of the production process. He too was personable, showing me some of their work, and it was obvious the care with which he invested in the brewing process.

After much testing, the people of Momokawa felt that the water of Oregon most closely resembled the water they used in Japan. Many areas in Oregon, including Portland, are supposed to have very pure drinking water, which would help produce a better quality sake. In addition, the brewery's water goes through several filtration levels, to remove all unwanted materials, chemicals and microbes. It is said that sake is about 80% water so the quality of that water is extremely important.

SakeOne does not use sakamai, sake rice, but instead uses a type of table rice, Calrose, which comes from the Sacramento Valley, in California. This rice was developed in 1948, and "Cal" refers to "California" while "rose" indicates it is a "medium-grain." It is a hard grain, and some has been grown specifically for sake production, with a larger shinpaku, the inner core where the starch is located. In Japan, much of their ordinary sake, the futsu-shu is actually made from table rice, though most, but not all, premium sake is made from sakamai.

When the brewery receives its rice, it has already been polished by 10%, and then SakeOne uses its own machine mill to polish the rice about another 32% more, with a target of 58%. This means that all of their sake qualifies as ginjo grade, which requires at least 40% of the rice to be polished away. Their milling machine runs often, and is capable of milling to almost any rate, though the greater the milling, the longer it takes. For example, milling from 60%-50% takes twice as long as it does to get down to 60%. Having their own milling machine enables them more quality control over the final product. They would like to eventually produce daiginjo, the highest quality grade, and have been doing some experimentation, but have not yet been satisfied with the results.

When you polish rice, the powder that remains behind is known as nuka, and it is not wasted. Nuka has numerous uses, from pickling to beauty products. SakeOne sells their nuka for cattle feed, and those cows are used to make Tillamook Cheese. Kasu, the sake lees, are also a byproduct of the brewing process and it is not wasted either. SakeOne sells their kasu to hog farmers, which is interesting as it still has a little alcohol in it. Wonder if that affects the taste of their meat?

After the rice is polished, it will be washed and soaked, before heading off to be steamed.

This is Juan Hernandez, the Assistant Brewer, getting ready to steam some rice.

The rice is layered in 6 inches to provide sufficient room for the steam to reach all of the rice rather than just steam the outside. If the rice is stacked too high, the interior rice may not get sufficiently steamed.

Some of the polished rice that has not yet been steamed. You can see how small it is, as about 40% of the rice kernel has already been polished away.

The steaming has begun, which will take about an hour to complete.

This box contains yellow koji-kin, a mold which will break the starch of the rice into sugars so that the yeast can ferment those sugars.

The steamed rice is now fed onto a conveyor belt where the koji-kin will be sprayed upon the rice.

That conveyor belt ends in the koji-muro, the cultivation room, where the koji will begin to transform the starch. The rice will eventually be spread out the length of the table.

SakeOne uses foamless yeast, called awa -nashi kobo, which has some advantages over regular yeasts. As they generate much less foam, a brewer saves time cleaning the foam out of the tanks and can also brew more sake in the tank. With normal yeast, about 1/3 of a tank will get filled with foam but the foamless yeasts will not waste all that space.

The above is a Yabuta press, which resembles an accordion, is used to separate the fermented sake from the lees. Each of the panels is a fine mesh, which prevents the lees from getting through. To make nigori, the mesh panels usually have larger holes, allowing some of the lees to pass through.

Fermentation tanks and holding tanks.

Now, onto the tasting room, which is located across the parking lot from the brewery building.

The tasting room and gift shop has a long counter where you can sidle up and try numerous sakes, including a couple that are on tap. If not tasting, you can peruse the store shelves, viewing what is for sale, from t-shirts to  sake books.

They sell several t-shirts and I love, and own, one of the "Drink Sake Not Bombs" shirts. Down with Sake Bombs!

They also sell some ochoko and tokkuri, sake cups and flasks, as well as a few sake books and other accessories.

The Momokawa brand has seen a recent aesthetic change as the labels have been redesigned. The new labels, pictured above, do seem a bit brighter and more modern, almost an abstract piece of art. The labels are also intended to be more consumer friendly, more descriptive instead of possessing technical terms like the Sake Meter Value. One of their primary goals is to introduce more consumers to Sake, as well as to cater to the American palate. SakeOne produces about 75,000 cases each year, and bottles are generally sold as 750ml or smaller bottles of 300ml or 375ml.

Many of their sakes, for a 750ml bottle, only cost $12 or $13, making them very affordable, and usually less expensive than imported Japanese sakes. One of the reason Japanese sakes are often more expensive is that there is an increased cost for imports, an extra cost that domestic sake does not incur. In addition, SakeOne's cost for rice is probably less than it is for Japanese breweries using sakamai, especially types like Yamada Nishiki. Rice is often one of the most expensive costs in producing sake. The low cost of the Momokawa line makes it a good choice for someone new to sake or for a party if you need plenty of inexpensive bottles.

We need to remember that SakeOne has only been making sake for 13 years, but that they continue to learn and improve all the time. The Momokawa I drank ten years ago is definitely not the same as the Momokawas I tasted at the brewery. The quality has improved during this time as the expertise of their sake brew master has increased, their equipment has been refined and other lessons have been learned. And each year that passes, the quality will continue to improve.

It was actually fun to taste through their current portfolio, to reacquaint myself with their sakes and to assess how they have changed over the years. Overall, I was pleased with their sakes and believe they offer a good value for the price. They offer an excellent way to introduce new people to sake, especially with their infused sakes. Based on my experience to this point, I feel SakeOne is producing the best domestic sakes in the U.S., though I have not yet tasted the sakes of Moto-i or the Texas Sake Company. But, Moto-i is only about three years old and the Texas Sake Co. just opened last month. SakeOne has much more experience than either of these breweries.

The Momokawa Silver ($12) is noted as a "Dry Crisp Sake" and has dry, clean flavors with tastes of melon and green apple. It is simple and pleasant, a nice introductory sake. The Momokawa Diamond ($12) is noted as a "Medium Dry Sake" and has a very nice aroma of floral notes and tropical fruit. On the palate, it offers some tropical fruit and citrus flavors, and seems a softer, though still dry, sake than the Silver.  The Momokawa Organic Junmai Ginjo ($13), noted as "Medium Rich," possesses even more tropical fruit flavors as well as underlying spice notes. It is crisp and dry, and very satisfying on the palate. The Momokawa Ruby ($12), noted as "Lightly Sweet," does seem to have a light sweetness to the taste, with more red fruit flavors as well as touches of melon and pear.  It is rounder and more rich in the mouth. I have previously reviewed their G Joy sake so there is no need to repeat that here.

For the price, you won't go wrong with any of these very approachable sakes.

I tasted a Special Edition sake called "Cloudless Sky,"which was a Nigori, having sat on the lees for four months, but the lees were then removed. So it went from being a "cloudy" sake to a "cloudless" one. This is the first time I have ever tasted such a sake and it was interesting, with tastes of canteloupe and melon, but with a more herbal finish. The Momokawa Pearl ($12) is a more traditional Nigori, sweet, thick and creamy with a prominent coconut taste. The Momokawa Organic Nigori is a thinner, less sweet sake with more restrained tropical fruit flavors. It has been very popular at the sake tastings I have held.

They have a tap where they can offer two draft sakes. The Nama Organic Junmai was maybe only a week old, and had an enticing nose of fresh fruit, and on the palate was crisp and lively. Plenty of delicious apple, pear and hints of tropical fruit. I was very impressed.  I also tasted some Plum Infused Sake, with added carbonation, from the tap, which was only mildly sweet and was rather refreshing. Would be a fun summer drink, or to add to a cocktail.

I tasted through their fruit infused sakes, the Moonstone line, which are intended to introduce newcomers to sake, to be a gateway to other sake. I would agree these are very consumer friendly products, and would also be great used in cocktails. These flavors include Asian Pear, Raspberry, Plum and Coconut Lemongrass. The Momokawa Silver is the base for these sakes, and they are generally sweet, though not overly so. My favorite was the Coconut Lemongrass, and I would love to try it in some Pina Colada style cocktails.

If you are in the Portland area, you definitely should visit the SakeOne kura, sake brewery. Their sakes are available all over the U.S. and it is well worth checking them out, especially at their price point. If you tasted their sakes years ago, but have not tried them recently, then give them another try. Consider using their infused sakes in cocktails, or give them to someone who claims not to enjoy sake and see what they think.

Kanpai to SakeOne!

Balvenie Scotch Whisky: The Importance of Barrels

What happens to old, oak barrels? When a barrel is no longer needed to age wine, bourbon or rum, where does it go? Should it just be discarded or is there some use that can be made of it? In fact, the Scotch industry is the recipient of a number of these used barrels, especially the bourbon ones, though some distilleries find use for other barrels as well.

Whisky, or whiskey (dependent on your country of origin), is a distilled alcohol made from a fermented grain mash, and that grain could be barley, wheat, corn or more. The term "whisky" originated from an ancient Gaelic term, "uisge beatha," which means "water of life."  In some respects, you could also almost consider whisky to be akin to "boiled or distilled beer," though I am sure whisky lovers might not like that characterization.

Whiskies are made all over the world but I am going to concentrate on Scotch whisky today. Obviously, Scotch whisky must be produced at a distillery in Scotland but there are other regulations, now described in the 2009 Scotch Whisky Regulations. For example, the whisky must be aged for at least three years in oak barrels and have no added substances, other than water and plain caramel coloring.

Scotch whisky is divided into five basic categories: Single Malt Scotch Whisky, Single Grain Scotch Whisky, Blended Malt Scotch Whisky, Blended Grain Scotch Whisky, and Blended Scotch Whisky. I will be concentrating on Single Malt, which is produced only from water and malted barley at a single distillery by batch distillation in pot stills. Scotland is also divided into five whisky production regions, including The Highlands, Lowland, Islay, Campbeltown and Speyside (which contains close to half of the whisky distilleries).

I recently attended a press event, a Balvenie Scotch Whisky tasting, led by Andrew Weir, the Balvenie ambassador to the U.S. Andrew is one of two ambassadors traveling the U.S. and showcasing some of the Balvenie products, including one which has not yet entered the market. It was a fascinating and educational event with several compelling Scotches.

Located in the region of Speyside, Balvenie Castle was constructed in the 12th century and its remains still stand, next to the Balvenie Distillery. Next to the castle was Balvenie Mains, a large farm, and eventually the Balvenie New House, an 18th century mansion, was added to the neighboring area. Around 1892, construction began to transform the mansion into the Balvenie distillery. The first distillation there was conducted on May 1, 1893. Currently, the distillery employs about 150 people and produces annually approximately 63 million liters of whisky. The 1000 acre farm next to distillery grows some of the barley used in the distillery. 

Balvenie is very different from many other Scotch distilleries. There are approximately 100 whisky distilleries in Scotland but only 5 are owned by independent families, and Balvenie is one of those five. It is also the only distillery that grows its own barley. In addition, Balvenie is one of only six distilleries that conducts floor maltings. A floor malting is where barley is soaked in water and then laid out atop a concrete floor and constantly turned, later to be dried in a kiln. Most other distilleries purchase their malted barley. Balvenie Scotch, despite the distillery's great size, is a hand crafted product, which is time intensive and even inefficient. But to change any of that could diminish its quality.  

One element that helps Balvenie create a superior product is the length of experience of some of their key personnel. Dennis McBain, their resident Coppersmith, started at Balvenie in 1958, when he was only 15 years old, lying about his age. He is the only resident coppersmith in Scotland, and has over 50 years of experience. David Stewart, their resident Malt Master, started at Balvenie in 1962, and he is currently the longest serving Malt Master in the business, and will celebrate his fifty year anniversary next year. With their vast experience and knowledge, they assist in the creation of a superior whisky.

In producing whisky, the oak barrel is one of the most important aspects, providing 60%-70% of the flavor and all of the color. They never use new barrels, only ones that were once used for something else, as they desire slow maturation. Most of the time, they use old bourbon barrels and in Scotland, there are about 20 million bourbon barrels, compared to their population of about 5 million people. Before bourbon barrels had been available, they used whatever was around. A barrel usually yields about 350 bottles of whisky. Balvenie employs eight coopers to maintain their barrels, and use not only bourbon barrels, but others as well, including rum, sherry and port barrels.

Andrew mentioned the "magic in the wood," which would seem to apply to not only Scotch but wine as well. No one knows completely for sure what will happen when scotch or wine is placed into an oak barrel. Barrels may seem similar but the scotch or wine inside will develop differently, barrel to barrel, over time. That was made clear to me when I toured the sherry bodegas of Spain. And for scotch, the type of barrel used will definitely affect its aroma and taste.

Andrew also stated that there are more flavors components in a glass of scotch than wine. In drinking whisky, he told us to ignore any so-called rules and drink it anyway we chose. He suggested that a wine glass may be better than a rocks glass for appreciating the aroma of the whisky. In addition, he suggested that we sip whiskey like hot tea, to best appreciate the complexity and taste of a single malt. As alcohol is a barrier to flavor, it can be beneficial to add a little water to reduce the alcohol and thus increase the flavor.

One of his final bits of advice concerned visiting a whisky warehouse. If you do visit one, you might be offered the opportunity to taste whisky from any barrel you choose. Though many people might seek out the oldest whisky or their birth year, there is a way to potentially discern the best whisky in the warehouse. Tap the casks and seek the emptiest one, as that is where the workers have been sipping, and it is they who know where the best whisky is located.

We tasted five Balvenie scotches, each with significant differences, yet all were pleasing and delicious, albeit in different ways. Prices generally range from about $40-$250, typical for high-end, single malt Scotches.

We began with the 12 Year Old Doublewood, which spent 12 years in a bourbon barrel and then an additional 9 months in a sherry cask, a barrel that once held a dry Oloroso. In 1982, they first started using sherry barrels as a finisher, wanting the additional spice and richness they would provide. The Doublewood was smooth and rich, with delicious flavors of vanilla, honey, caramel and spice. There is something about this Scotch which did remind me of a fine, aged sherry so it was especially appealing to me. This is the least expensive of their Scotches, and one I believe offers a good value.

Their 14 Year Old Caribbean Cask was created because the public demanded it. Previously, Balvenie produced a limited edition Scotch that was finished in a rum cask and consumers loved it, but when it was no longer available, there was a great clamor for its return. So, Balvenie chose to make it a regular product. This Scotch is finished for about four months in old rum barrels and the resulting Scotch tends to be a bit sweeter, with tropical fruit flavors, and even a little banana. It certainly brings to mind the Caribbean, and not what I would normally think of for Scotch.  It was very different from the Doublewood but each is appealing in their own unique way. I prefer the Doublewood but that it merely a matter of personal taste.

The 15 Year Old Single Barrel is aged only in a bourbon barrel and presented a very compelling aroma and taste. It was silky smooth, with a complex melange of vanilla, butterscotch, caramel, honey, and even some appealing earthiness. It possessed a lengthy and very satisfying finish, a mellowness that would warm you on a chilly winter evening. This is a Scotch to slowly sip and savor with friends, to enjoy each amazing taste. Highly recommended.

Back to the varied finish barrels, the 21 Year Old Portwood is finished for four months in a Tawny Port cask. This is a much rarer Scotch, as only about 1% of their production survives for 21 years. This Scotch is rich and complex, with an intriguing fruitiness combined with notes of chocolate and a very lengthy finish. Though I enjoyed this Scotch, my personal preference would be for the Single Barrel.

The final Scotch we tasted has not yet been released, though will be available very soon. It is the Tun 1401, Batch 3, a blend of 10 excellent vintages from 1967-1989. Only 1800 bottles have been produced and it will sell for $250 per bottle. This Scotch has a darker color than the others and was a potent and complex whisky. It was rich, full bodied and powerful, with an intriguing and complex blend of flavors, including vanilla, honey, citrus, spice, and more. A superb Scotch, albeit pricey, but something for a true connoisseur.

Rant: Where Is The Roast Chicken Love?

1990 was a pivotal year in the battle of beef versus chicken. It was the first year that Americans ate more chicken than beef, and that has continued to be the case to the present. From 1975-2009, the number of cattle slaughtered in the U.S. dropped by about 20% while the number of chickens killed increased by about 200%. Approximately ten billion animals are killed each year in the U.S., and almost nine billion of those are chickens.

So though it is clear that we are eating plenty of chicken, would you order Roast Chicken at a restaurant?

I have heard many people state they would not, and the primary reason seems to be because they can and do make roast chicken at home. Yet that seems a strange reason because those same people order plenty of other dishes which they make at home, from burgers to steaks, from chicken parmigiana to baked cod. So why should roast chicken be any different? Or is the true reason is because people assume roast chicken at restaurants is not an exciting or tasty dish?

It is rare for me to order roast chicken at a restaurant, and my reason is that there are often other choices on the menu which seem more exciting and/or exotic. But, I also have enjoyed some superb roast chicken dishes at local restaurants, which sometimes makes me rethink my choices. Roast chicken deserves more love and respect, and I encourage my readers to consider it the next time they dine out. I think you might be very pleasantly surprised and satisfied.

Most recently, I dined at Bergamot, one of my favorite restaurants, and as I perused the entrees, I finally settled on the Roasted Chicken with Potato Dauphinoise, Swiss Chard, Leeks, Truffles, and Chicken Jus. I have much faith in their kitchen, so I suspected they would deliver a top notch dish, even if it were only roast chicken, and I was not disappointed in the least. It was simply a perfect piece of chicken, moist, tender and flavorful with crispy skin. I have had roast chicken cooked by many people at their homes, and it rarely is ever as moist and tender as what Bergamot prepared. All of my dining companions were equally impressed with the chicken and I would order this dish again. Plus, the Potato Dauphinoise made a delectable side.

I also previously enjoyed a superb roast chicken dish at L'Espalier. Their Roasted Apple Street Farm Chicken, with hedgehog mushrooms, pommes puree and green peppercorn jus, was perfectly cooked, with an addictive crispy skin. The Apple Street Farm, located in Essex, is owned by Chef Frank McClelland, and the farm aims for sustainability. These are not the typical factory farm chickens.

That raises the point that maybe what differentiates some restaurant Roasted Chicken dishes may be the sourcing of their poultry. Rather than obtain their chickens from the dreaded huge, factory farms, certain restaurants seek more local poultry, from small family farms, and maybe even heirloom breeds. These chickens usually are far more flavorful, as well as probably healthier for you. They also may not be the type of chickens many people buy when they go shopping for their homes. So, if you order roast chicken at certain restaurants, then you may not actually be ordering something you may prepare at home. So the next time you dine out at a fine restaurant, consider ordering their roast chicken.

Have you had a delicious roast chicken dinner at some other restaurant?

Sake Brunch at AKA Bistro on Nov.20

Would you like to learn more about Sake? One of the best ways to learn is to taste Sake with food, to see how well it interacts with a variety of dishes. So maybe you would be interested in the upcoming Sake Brunch being held at AKA Bistro in Lincoln.  

AKA Bistro garnered two wins in my Favorite Restaurants of 2010, including Favorite Brunch, Traditional Fare and Favorite New Suburban Restaurant. Presenting both French and Japanese fare, the restaurant offers many interesting and delicious dishes and I have been recommending it to everyone. I am now collaborating with AKA Bistro to present a special Sake Brunch, which may be the first of its kind in the area. This is your opportunity to taste their fare while learning about sake from me.

The Sake Brunch will be held on Sunday, November 20, at 1pm. You will receive Five Courses, prepared by Chef Chris Chung, accompanied by Five Sakes and the cost is only $55 per person. During the brunch, I will give a lesson in Sake, providing your the basics you need to know about this fascinating and tasty brew.

You must make a reservation by calling AKA Bistro at 781-259-9920, and please tell them that I sent you. Seating is limited so if you desire to attend, please call soon.

The Sake Brunch menu will be as follows:

First Course:
Suzuki (hybrid striped bass) Sashimi with mango kosho, umeboshi and red shiso seasoning.
Paired with a Sparkling Sake

Second Course:
Tempura of Local Mushrooms and Vegetable with Yuzu ketchup and Curry aïoli
Paired with the Watari Bune Junmai Ginjo

Third Course:
Aka Fried Rice with rib eye cap, shrimp, scallop, sesame oil, soy aromatic, scallion and pepper
Paired with a Yamahai style Sake

Fourth Course:
A Cheese Plate with a Creamy Goat cheese
Paired with an Ohtouka Namazake

Fifth Course:
Green Tea Pana Cotta
Paired with a Murai Nigori Genshu

I hope to see you at this Sake Brunch. Kanpai!

Chocolate, Charcuterie & Olive Oil in Portland, OR

I was extremely busy when I visited Portland, Oregon for the Travel Oregon press trip, and engaged in a wide range of food and beverage activities. I wanted to highlight a few of those activities here, as well as showcasing some of the artisan producers we met. It is these small, artisan producers who are helping to make Portland a fantastic food destination. My own participation, which I'll describe below, also gave me a glimpse into the difficult and skilled efforts these producers engage in on a daily basis. They deserve much respect for their passionate labors.

Chocolate! Who doesn't enjoy chocolate in all its forms? I attended a chocolate making class led by three chocolate makers, and got to with make some of my own candy. Starting from the left side, you can see Bruce and Ericka Reininger (father and daughter) of Arrowhead Chocolates. On the right side is David Briggs of Xocolatl de David. Interestingly, neither Bruce or David originally planned to enter the chocolate making business.

Bruce started out as a fish biologist and eventually changed careers, entering the field of web design. One of his web projects was for a chocolate maker and this intrigued Bruce, who then decided to make another career change into chocolate.  David initially acquired a physiology degree and became a personal trainer, though he always enjoyed cooking. He took a job as a line cook, making chocolate in his free time. His chocolates proved so popular that he started selling them and eventually purchased a shop, making this his full-time career.

These chocolates are from Arrowhead Chocolates, representing a small sample of the different candies they produce. I tried several different ones and really enjoyed the varied tastes, especially the caramel covered candies. There are all handmade and that is not an easy task. I also tasted some of the chocolates from Xocolatl de David and they too were impressive, especially his Chocolate Bar with Parmigiano Reggiano. Both men are considered "melters" or "remelters" as they do not process their own cacao beans. Instead, they purchase large bars of chocolate which they then melt for their purposes. 

I made the candy in the center of this photo, a chocolate covered caramel with sea salt. The caramel squares were already cut, and I had to dip the caramel into melted chocolate and completely coat the caramel. I then had to move the candy to the tray, ensuring it was a clean square without chocolate dripping off the sides, and then sprinkle it with sea salt. It takes time and skill to make it clean, without dripping chocolate making it messy. I actually did a pretty good job, but I took my time and it was not easy. Professionals can do this far more quickly than I.

Here are some other chocolate covered concoctions I made, which I made by dipping various items into some melted chocolate. There is a marshmallow, some graham crackers and homemade chicharróns, basically fried pork rinds which were superb. These were different from the chocolate caramels I made, and did not need to look as good. More chocolate fun!

I later had some charcuterie lessons from Eric Finley and Paula Markus of Chop Butchery & Charcuterie.  Chop Butchery is a small business and they make all of their own charcuterie as well as butcher all of their own meats.  They have a curing room in their basement and try to source locally as much as possible. Their products are sold to restaurants, stores and consumers, including at local farmer's markets. Both Eric and Paula were very personable and down to earth, with a clear passion for their work.

As most charcuterie is lengthy to prepare, Eric decided we could make a quick and simple chicken liver mousse. Above, you can see some of the chicken livers. They may not look appealing but they provided an intense and compelling flavor to the mousse. 

The onions, mushrooms, garlic, bacon, spices, and more being fried up for addition to the mousse.

I volunteered to assit and was put to work separating the mousse from the rest of the solids, sifting it through a strainer. I did that about four times and it gave my hands and arms a good workout. 

The finished product is above, and though it may not look especially appealing, it tasted great, especially considering I helped make it. Slather it on some fresh bread and it makes a delicious appetizer. I just needed a glass or two of wine.

They also rolled out a partially butchered pig for us to see, which made me desirous of some pork. Isn't this pig cute?

The olive oil industry in Oregon is relatively new and one of the pioneers is the Oregon Olive Mill at Red Ridge Farms. We met Paul Durant whose parents started the farm in 1973, planting Pinot Noir, Riesling as well as various fruits. The farm now has about 60 acres of grapes and they produce about 1000 cases per year under the Durant Vineyards label. Paul's mother specialized in agriculture, not viticulture, and sold olive trees.  About eight years ago, Paul's father planted about 2000 olive plants and their olive production facility was completed in 2008. Winters can be tough so they are researching olives which will do best in their climate. 

With the above machinery they can process about 500 kilograms of olives per hour, and noted that clean fruit is very important as well as that most of the flavor comes from the olive pit. They keep the olive oil in stainless steel tanks and bottle it about once a week. They make about 4000 liters each year.

We tasted three of their current releases, including Arbequina, Koroneiki, and Tuscan Blend (a field blend of 3 olives: Leccino, Frantoio, Pendolino). The olive oils were generally fresh, clean and flavorful, and certainly would please most people. The Tuscan Blend was probably my favorite, as it had the smoothest taste. These examples seem to indicate that olive trees can succeed in Oregon.

It also shows how the passion of artisan producers can lead to excellence. And that is the lesson of this entire post.