Friday, September 8, 2017

Direct Wine Shipping & Local Wine Shops

As we near the holiday season, we approach the time when wine stores generally make their greatest amount of sales, their most profitable period of the year. Consumers tend to buy more wine for holiday parties and gifts. They are more willing to splurge, and purchase more expensive bottles of wine. I've worked at a local wine shop for a number of holiday seasons and have witnessed this consumer surge. Staff recommendations to customers become very important.

It is also during this season that I've written a number of articles, providing advice to consumers on selecting wine. Much of that advice involves choosing the right wine store and relying on the expertise of the wine shop staff in helping make your selections. I've been very supportive of local, independent wine stores however it isn't a blind support. My support, of any person, company of institution, needs to be earned and there will be issues where I hold a different opinion than wine stores. That certainly has come to the forefront this week.

On Monday, I posted Rant: MA Wine Lovers, We Urgently Need Your Help!, throwing my support behind bill, H3891, sponsored by Representative John Lawn, Jr., which would allow Massachusetts residents to "purchase and have shipped to them wine from out-of-state wine stores, Internet retailers, wine auction houses and wine-of-the-month clubs." There is a hearing on this bill scheduled for September 12, and I urged wine lovers to support this bill by sending emails to the Committee members prior to the hearing. And a number of them did so, as well as sharing the post for greater exposure.

However, I also heard, both online and offline, from a number of wine store owners, all essentially opposed to this bill. The basis of their opposition is that they fear they will lose business if this bill becomes law. In addition, so far, none of them has provided any facts or statistics to support their allegations. There is nothing to indicate what percentage of business, if any, they might lose to direct shipments of wine. Are their fears unfounded?

Even if Bill H3891 doesn't become law this time, it is only a matter of time before a similar law will be enacted. Back in 2006, a law was passed that barred many wine shipments from entering Massachusetts but it was later ruled unconstitutional, a decision affirmed by the U.S. 1st Circuit Court of Appeals in 2010. Since that time, Massachusetts alcohol laws have been expanding, making numerous changes to the industry, from expanding the number of liquor licenses a single entity can possess to BYOB in Boston. As well as the recent change that permitted out-of-state wineries to directly ship to Massachusetts consumers. It is inevitable that the law will change to allow all direct wine shipments, and not just from wineries.

Back in 2014, as the bill to allow direct shipment from wineries was being considered, I already indicated that I hoped the law would also change to allow direct wine shipments from out-of-state wineries and online retailers. So, my support of the idea behind Bill H3891 shouldn't surprise anyone.  And in January 2016, I posted Rant: No Predictions, Only Desires, and stated: "Massachusetts has slowly been releasing the reins on wine control so there is much of which to be hopeful. A law was finally passed permitting wineries to ship to consumers in Massachusetts but we still need a law allowing online and out of state, brick & mortar retailers to ship to Massachusetts consumers. Let's see a push for this expansion in the wine shipping law."

Some of the latest statistics behind Direct to Consumer Wine Shipping come from an annual collaboration between ShipCompliant by Sovos and Wines & Vines, in the 2017 Direct To Consumer Wine Shipping Report. DtC wine shipments, despite their growth, still constitute only a small percentage of wine sales. The top five states that avail themselves of DtC wine shipments include California 31%, Texas 9%, New York 6%, Washington 5%, and Florida 5% with only 1.6% of DtC sales from Massachusetts.

In 2015, the first year Massachusetts allowed DtC wine shipments, the total value of those shipments was about $27.5M, and in 2016, that amount increased to about $39M. The average price of the wine shipped to Massachusetts was $41.79, which is higher than the country-wide average of $38.69. Massachusetts wine lovers are tending to purchase higher end wines directly from wineries. The report predicts that, "The state will likely see above average growth in 2017, but nothing astronomical."

The report also notes in its conclusions primary reason for the expansion of DtC channels, "That said, growth in the DtC shipping channel is reflective of changes in the wine industry itself. In particular, the ongoing consolidation of the wholesale distribution tier and the continued difficulty small and medium-sized wineries have in gaining access to wholesale distribution are important factors in wineries’ increased reliance and focus on direct shipments. The wholesaler consolidation will likely drive increased DtC shipping going forward." Over the year, I've spoken to numerous wineries who have indicated their frustration in trying to find a wholesaler who will sell and give sufficient attention to their wines.

As such, there are thousands of wines available in the U.S. which cannot be purchased in Massachusetts. There are plenty of wine lovers who want access to those wines, who want the ability to purchase any wine that is available in the U.S. Why shouldn't they have such access? As the current DtC statistics indicate, DtC shipping is still only a tiny percentage of wine sales and most people are opting for higher end wines. Allowing DtC wine shipping won't shut down local, independent wine shops. Such stores face a far greater threat from local, big-box wine stores than DtC wine shipping.

Good local, independent wine shops are needed, providing experienced staff to help make wine recommendations. And I have long supported such good shops. Over ten years ago, in the second post to my blog, I wrote Choosing a Wine Store, and it remains as relevant now as it did back then. The article provides my criteria for wine stores, from Selection to Service. Each year, in my annual Favorite posts such as 2016: Favorite Wine-Related Items, I provide some specific recommendations for my Favorite Wine Stores and Favorite Discount Wine Stores.

I've also give consumers plenty of advice on purchasing wine. In my Rant: The Best Way To Buy Wine, I state that "... my best advice is to ask the wine store owner, manager or employee for advice on selecting your wines. It is simple advice but can be extremely effective, with the caveat that you need to shop at the right wine store." In my Rant: The Lazy Way Of Buying Wine As A Gift, I continue that advice, "What you should do is stop at your local wine shop and ask for recommendations, for more unusual and different wines, for wines that are excellent values."

And in Rant: Holiday Wines--Don't Be A Cheapskate, I address the question of "How do you find these inexpensive but interesting wines?" First, "...the easiest path is to seek out one of the better discount wine stores," and I provide a few specific recommendations. Second, I mention that,"At whatever wine shop you visit, it might be best to ask the wine store staff for recommendations of value wines. They should be able to direct you toward those inexpensive wines which will be more interesting and delicious than those cheap commercial wines."

I've also jumped into the discussion of big-box wine stores in my Rant: Total Wine, Low Prices & Consumers. "To me, the best alcohol retail stores possess three key elements: a diverse & interesting selection, good service with knowledgeable staff, and reasonable pricing. The only way to find wines, beers, and spirits from such small wineries, breweries and distilleries, is at the smaller, more independent wine stores. We should cherish the diversity that is available at these retailers, expanding our palate beyond just the major national brands. In addition, by supporting these smaller alcohol retailers, you are giving your support to those smaller wineries, breweries and distilleries. They need your support, so they can continue to produce their interesting and diverse beverages."

Direct to Consumer Wine Shipments are inevitable and wine stores must find ways to deal with it. Currently, it doesn't appear that such shipments will have a significant impact on local wine stores, certainly nowhere near as much of an impact as the growth of big-box wine stores. These shipments will help wine lovers gain access to many thousands of previously unavailable wines. However, those same wine lovers will still patronize their local wine shops, and there are multiple reasons why that will occur. Yes, I support local, independent wine stores but I don't see these direct wine shipments as a serious threat to them.

Thursday, September 7, 2017

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) From September 14 to October 11, Legal Sea Foods’ will bring half-shell hedonism to mollusk mavens and oyster newbies during their ninth annual “Oyster Festival.” For four weeks, a sequence of in-restaurant menu features and a shuckout event will celebrate everything oysters and all are invited who share the belief “the world is your oyster.”

Bivalve specialties will be available for the duration of the Oyster Festival and include Fried Oysters (three for $10) in four preparations (buffalo, BBQ, Sriracha lime and BLT); Baked Oysters (three for $12) available in a quartet of options (lobster spinach, crab & cheese, scampi and roasted); Oyster Stew ($14.95); and, the Legal Sea Foods teams will shuck seasonal standouts at their raw bars daily for those who opt to go au natural. Legals also suggests washing it down with the official drink of the 2017 Oyster Festival, the Skiff Cocktail, with Absolut Vodka, aromatized wine, lemon, botanicals and celery bitters ($11).

On September 16 at 2pm, Legal Sea Foods’ al fresco Charles Terrace (20 University Road, Cambridge) will host their annual “Shellfish Shindig” event that has shucked oysters by the bushel for only $1 per slurp. First-come, first-served; get 'em while they last! (Complimentary admission.) In the event of rain, the “Shellfish Shindig” event will take place inside the atrium of the Charles Square restaurant.

The Oyster Festival is celebrated at all Legal Sea Foods locations throughout Massachusetts, with the exception of airport venues.

2) On Tuesday, September 12, at 7pm, Ledger, a progressive new restaurant conceptualized by Chef Matt O’Neil and located in the heart of historic downtown Salem, will host acclaimed Chef Maria Sinskey of Napa’s renowned Robert Sinskey Vineyards for an intimate five-course wine dinner featuring the cuisine of Executive Chef Daniel Gursha and Chef de Cuisine Craig White.

Guests in attendance will not only enjoy five exquisite courses artfully prepared with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients, each paired with a hand-selected varietal from Sinskey’s Napa Valley vineyard; they’ll leave knowing the exciting story behind each pour, along with insider knowledge of what it takes go from vine, to vintage.

A true reflection of the restaurant’s commitment to serving traditional 19th century New England-inspired dishes elevated by today’s resources and culinary techniques, the menu will be presented as follows:

1st Course
Salad of Summer Melons (stracciatella, speck, verbena dressing)
Pairing: Pinot Blanc Los Cameros 2013
2nd Course
Live Scallop Crudo (cherry, green apple, sunflower oil)
Pairing: Abraxas Vin de Terroir Scintilla Sonoma Valley Vineyard 2014
3rd Course
Confit Duck Leg (mulled cherry, celery root, lacinato kale)
Pairing: Pinot Noir Los Cameros 2013
4th Course
North Star Smoked Lambchetta (huckleberry, local grains)
Pairing: POV Los Cameros 2012
5th Course
Pear Tarte Tatin (frangipane, pinot gris ice cream)
Pairing: Pinot Gris Late Harvest Los Cameros 2012

COST: $129 per guest (gratuity not included)
To make a Reservation, please call 978-594-1908

3) Every Wednesday, Kendall Square’s newly opened Sumiao Hunan Kitchen will be offering their twist on the classic Wing Wednesday deal by offering a complimentary order of their popular Nom Numb Wings with the purchase of a Tiki for Two cocktail. Combining Dewars White Label Scotch, Beefeater Gin, Mixed Juices and Cruzan 151, the Tiki for Two is a timelessly sweet, shareable drink that pairs perfectly with the spiciness of Sumiao’s Nom Numb Wings.

Seasoned with dried hot chili and peppercorn oil, Sumiao’s Nom Numb Wings are bursting with complex umami flavors. Whether a seasoned wing eater or not, guests are sure to love the robust, rich flavor of Sumiao’s Nom Numb Wings.

COST: Purchase one Tiki for Two cocktail ($30), receive one complimentary order of wings.

4) On Tuesday, September 12, from 7pm-9pm, Tavolo will host a special 9th Anniversary Party, celebrating all those years of serving high-quality Italian food, drinks, and hospitality in Dorchester's Peabody Square. Chris Douglas, chef/owner of Tavolo, was one of the pioneers in the South End as the chef/owner at Icarus, closing in 2009 after a 31-year run. He then opened Ashmont Grill and Tavolo, both a short walk from the Ashmont T Station on the Red Line.

Tavolo is a casual, neighborhood restaurant serving housemade pasta, pizza, and excellent Italian food. They recently completed an extensive renovation, including 2 gorgeous murals by local artist, April Clay. Weekly events include special Sunday Suppers (3 courses for $30), Monday and Tuesday cicchetti specials, trivia every Monday, and a weekly dinner on Wednesdays where chef chooses a region of Italy and highlights it with a 3-course meal for $30.

The 9th Anniversary Party will include fall menu samples from their new Executive Chef, Eric Buonagurio. Eric's first job at 17, was with Chef Jason Santos at Gargoyles on the Square in Somerville. He also worked with Jason at Blue Inc. (sous chef), Abby Lane (sous chef), and Back Bay Harry's as executive chef. Eric opened Parla in the North End as executive chef. Eric developed a passion for gardening and the outdoors at a young age, as his grandfather, father, and brothers shared their knowledge and experience. He is an avid gardener, hiker, and outdoorsman who has been foraging for wild mushrooms and herbs for 4 years.

Eric states: "I love produce and the gratification of starting a seed, nurturing the plant, and producing food from it. I'm passionate about being close to where food comes from and really trying to understand all aspects of cooking from sourcing the food, trying different techniques, and creating new dishes. I love the challenge of exploring new ingredients and flavors with the changing New England seasons. I'm excited about preparing food that tastes great, but is also beautifully presented. My priority at Tavolo is to cultivate strong relationships with local foragers and farmers like the folks at Langwater Farm in Easton, MA. They offer true, local organics and amazing produce that I'm proud to continue featuring on our menu."

There is no cover charge for the 9th Anniversary Party and there will be a cash bar.

Tuesday, September 5, 2017

2015 Proyecto Garnachas de Espana La Garnacha Salvaje del Moncayo: A Killer Value

It's often said that it's easy to find an excellent $50 wine but it's much more difficult to find an excellent $10 wine. There are certainly plenty of wines available for $10-$15 but not all of them are of the same quality. The best of those value wines over-deliver for their price, and you would have paid, without question, even more money for those wines. It's always an exciting time when I find one such wine, an inexpensive wine that is both complex and delicious.

You can find a number of these excellent value wines coming from Spain, and the importer Vintae is distributing some of these values, such as these two White Wines. Back in 1999, José Miguel Arambarri Terrero started a winery in Spain, eventually enlisting the assistance of his sons, Ricardo and José Miguel. They eventually expanded their operations, adding wineries, and are now producing wine in 15 Denominations of Origin (D.O). Their overall company became known as Vintae and they export many of their wines to the U.S. I'm here to showcase another of their wines, a great value Garnacha, which I received as a media sample.

Proyecto Garnachas de Espana is a project started by winemaker Raul Acha, who is also the Technical Director of Vintae. Raul is from Rioja, where Garnacha was once the main grape before Tempranillo eventually took center stage. He wanted to resurrect the importance of Garnacha and searched other areas of Spain, mainly in the Ebro Valley, for the best Garnacha, seeking sites that would reflect the intriguing terroir of this grape. Part of the reason for the decline of Garnacha is that some feel it has a complicated viticulture and is more difficult for production. However, Garnacha can make some amazing wines so it is important to ensure this grape thrives.

I received a media sample of the 2015 Proyecto Garnachas de Espana La Garnacha Salvaje del Moncayo ($11.99), which is made from 100% Garnacha from the Valle del Ebro and has a 13.5% ABV. It is fermented in stainless steel and then is aged for five months in new French oak barrels. Initially, I found a more subtle aroma on this wine, mild fruity notes with hints of spice. On the palate, the wine immediately impressed, presenting delicious black fruit flavors, enhanced with a touch of earthiness and spice, and there was even some minerality beneath it all. The tannins were well integrated, presenting a smooth and easy drinking wine, with a moderately lengthy and satisfying finish. It didn't take long for us to finish this bottle.  

This is a killer value wine, presenting more complexity than many other wines at this price point. You could easily enjoy this on its own, or accompanied with food, from pizza to ribs. I enjoyed this wine with some burgers and it was a tasty pairing. This is the type of wine you should buy by the case, to ensure you always have a bottle on hand in case you have guests stop by your home.

Monday, September 4, 2017

Rant: MA Wine Lovers, We Urgently Need Your Help!

Massachusetts wine lovers, we urgently need your immediate assistance! It will only take about one minute and the potential benefits are great. 

In 2014, Massachusetts passed a Direct Shipment law, allowing out-of-state wineries to ship to consumers in the state. This was a great start and numerous wineries took advantage of this new law, acquiring licenses so that they could ship to local consumers. However, the law applies only to wineries and doesn't include out-of-state retailers. Thus, Massachusetts residents are still unable to order from online retailers or cool wine stores in other states.

However, that may change soon but your help is needed to enact this great and positive change.

Wine Freedom provides information about a new bill, H3891, sponsored by Representative John Lawn, Jr., which would allow Massachusetts residents to "purchase and have shipped to them wine from out-of-state wine stores, Internet retailers, wine auction houses and wine-of-the-month clubs." Retailers would only need to acquire a license, for an initial fee of $300 and $150 in subsequent years, to be able to sell and ship to Massachusetts consumers.

What a great thing if this bill becomes law! You would be able to order almost any wine available in the U.S., vastly expanding your vinous choices. Under the current law, you can order from U.S. wineries, but opening up matters to online retailers and stores would also allow you to purchase international wines that have not previously been available in Massachusetts. We desperately need this bill to pass.

As an added bonus, Massachusetts would receive significant revenue from taxes on these wine shipments, which Wine Freedom states would be "upwards of $2 million." Obviously, the added revenue could assist our state budget, providing monies for programs that might otherwise had been cut or reduced.

On Tuesday, September 12, Bill H3891, which has been assigned to the Joint Committee on Consumer Protection and Professional Licensure, is set for a hearing at 2 pm. Now, here is the part where we need your urgent assistance to "contact their members of the Joint Committee on Consumer Protection and Professional Licensure now and urge them to support and sign on as a sponsor of this legislation." All you have to do is go to this webpage and take 30 seconds to fill out the form, which will get emailed to all of the committee members.

PLEASE, PLEASE FILL OUT THIS FORM! It takes almost no time to fill out this form and we need you to do so immediately, prior to the upcoming committee hearing on September 12. If you love wine, then why wouldn't you want access to thousands of additional wines that were previously unavailable to you? Expanding your wine choices benefits all of us. Massachusetts wine laws have been slowly changing, in a positive way, and we need to continue that streak by allowing direct shipment from not just wineries, but also wine retailers and stores across the country.

Join me and other wine lovers in Massachusetts and lend your support to this bill. All it takes is filling out the form on this webpage. It would also help if you spread the word, telling your family and friends to fill out this form too. We need as many people as possible to give their support to this bill and let the Committee know about our support.

Thursday, August 31, 2017

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) On September 25, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with selections from Feudi di San Gregorio’s extensive portfolio of Irpinian wines. True visionaries from the mountainous Italian region of Irpinia in Campania, Southern Italy, Feudi di San Gregorio focuses on blending the heritage and traditional flavors of Irpinian wine with a forward-thinking emphasis on art and modernity, encapsulating the excellence and esteem that the brand has commanded since its inception in 1986. Distinguishing itself from other Campanian wineries, Feudi di San Gregorio emphasizes its region, by explaining how the unique climate and environment of Irpinia cultivates a distinctly rugged, yet natural vineyard that sets Irpinian wines apart. A region characterized by mountains and woodlands, Irpinia boasts robust vineyards, grown naturally alongside fruit trees and forests, that take advantage of the region’s unique rainfalls and mild Summers to produce distinctly Irpinian grapes. With great respect for the traditions of the land, coupled with a comprehensive mastery of modern oenological techniques and an emphasis on art and design, Feudi di San Gregorio produces wines that piece together a mosaic of the communities, hills and cultures of Irpinia.

Legal Sea Foods will team up with Feudi di San Gregorio’s Brand Export Manager, Andrea Fabiano, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring signature cuisine paired with his selections from the winery’s collection of Irpinian wines. The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Uni Bisque
Tuna Crudo
Brandade Croquette
Feudi di San Gregorio “Ros’Aura,” Irpinia Rosato DOC, 2016
FIRST COURSE
Seared Halibut Cheek (gnocchi, toasted hazelnuts, sage brown butter)
Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina del Sannio DOC, 2015
Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino DOCG, 2015
SECOND COURSE
Rosemary Smoked Salmon (morel mushrooms, plum demi-glace, prosciutto)
Feudi di San Gregorio “Pàtrimo,” Campania Rosso IGT, 2013
MAIN COURSE
Braised Pork Shank (bone marrow butter, roasted root vegetables)
Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi DOCG, 2011
Feudi di San Gregorio “Piano di Montevergine” Taurasi Riserva DOCG, 2011
CHEESE COURSE
Pecorino Romano, Manchego, Taleggio
Feudi di San Gregorio “Serpico,” Irpinia Aglianico DOC, 2011

COST: $110 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397

2) The Babbo Pizzeria e Enoteca team have banded together to support the victims of Hurricane Harvey by donating 100% of the sales of their designated beef dishes, from September 1-30, to the American Red Cross. 100% of the proceeds from Babbo's Beef Brisket and Pork Polpette will be donated to the cause. I recently had the polpette and it was delicious, tender and flavorful. So, enjoy some good food and help a much needed cause.

For Reservations, please call (617) 421-4466.

3) Earls Kitchen + Bar soon will open their second Massachusetts location within The Shops at the Prudential Center in Boston’s Back Bay. Opening to the public on September 8, the new location will be Earls’ 10th and their largest concept in the United States. "Earls Kitchen + Bar, the iconic staple from Canada, strikes a balance of healthy and indulgent by offering a menu diverse in culinary experiences inside a lively, high-energy bar and dining environment complete with an unmatched rooftop patio where authentic hospitality takes centerstage."

Earls has a fun cocktail menu curated by internationally renowned beverage director Cameron Bogue. Earls’ cocktail gurus will shake-and-stir modernized classics in addition to pouring authentic craft cocktails and balanced libations with a twist of novelty. They use freshly-squeezed juices, seasonal fruits, small batch syrups and market-fresh herbs. Check out cocktails like the Paper Plane (with Buffalo Trace bourbon, Montenegro, amaro, Aperol and fresh lemon), and Absinthe Minded (with Bombay dry gin, Tio Pepe Fino Sherry, Martini blanco vermouth, absinthe and fresh lime).
Each month, Earls will feature a specialty cocktail that is available all day, every day for only $5; in the spotlight in September are four renditions of the Moscow Mule.

Earls also features local and regional craft beer selections and an unpretentious wine list focused on quality and value that is curated by corporate sommelier David Stansfield, a wine educator and writer who is known for his wit and keen understanding of the wine experience. The wine list is presented in an easygoing fashion that is tailor-made for its Prudential Center location with a heavy focus on wines of Italy and classic biodynamic producers.

Each Earls menu is unique to its local market and surroundings. At its core, Earls offers diverse selections ranging from bibimbap, jeera chicken curry, sushi and south-of-the-border specialties in addition to serving up classics like gourmet burgers, steaks and fresh seafood. Choices from its all-day menu include three types of Wings from traditional hot and Korean hot to Jamaican jerk;  Blackened Swordfish Tacos in flour tortillas with melted white cheddar, roasted jalapeño crema, pico de gallo and fresh cilantro; a half-dozen burger options, including the Fenway Burger with battered onion rings, red pepper relish, aged white cheddar and lettuce on a freshly baked brioche bun; and, Steak & Sushi with tataki-style steak and ponzu sauce with a choice of a dynamite roll or spicy tuna sushi.

4) The SRV team and Nino Negri winemaker, Claudis Alonghi, invite guests to join them at their first-ever wine dinner on September 12th at 6:30pm. Established in 1897, the winery is located in the Vatellina valley in Lombardy, and primarily grows Chiavanesca, the local clone of Nebbiolo. One of their specialties is Sfursat, a wine made from grapes that are allowed to initially dry for about 100 days in the cool, dry, alpine air.

Cost: Tickets cost $100 per guest, not including tax and gratuity, and will include a multi-course dinner paired with some of Nino Negri's top bottles.
To make reservations, please contact (617) 536-9500