Paella Showdown: Schlesinger vs Bissonnette

Kramer: Have you ever had really good paella?
Morty: Not really.
Kramer: Oh, it's an orgiastic feast for the senses."
--Seinfeld episode "The Raincoats"

Last night, famed local chefs Chris Schlesinger and Jamie Bissonnette faced off against each other in a pugilistic cook-off to see which chef could create the Best Paella. This culinary competition took place in front of a packed crowd at The Automatic, and I attended as a media guest. All of the attendees were able to vote for their favorite Paella and the winner was.....

Well, I'll hold off on that announcement until later in this post.

Chris Schlesinger is a James Beard award-winning chef, the founder of East Coast Grill and the author of several books. Most recently, he opened The Automatic with his friend, legendary bartender Dave Cagle. Chris's Paella recipe has become famous, even featured in The New York Times. Jamie Bissonnette, of Little Donkey, Toro, and Coppa, is also a James Beard award-winning chef and can brag about his Paella too. He headlined this year’s Food &Wine Classic in Aspen, showcasing his Paella to the massive crowds. Two culinary powerhouses, creating their own spin on a classic Spanish dish.

Paella is a Spanish rice dish that likely originated in the region of Valencia, on the eastern coast of Spain, during the 19th century but its roots extend back over 1000 years. Over 1200 years ago, the Moors introduced rice to Valencia, which would subsequently become one of the most important rice-producing areas in all of Spain. The exact origins of paella are a bit murky and there are numerous origin stories, some which appear to have been created mainly to make a fascinating story.

For example, one story suggests that Moorish servants created paella-like rice dishes for their families using leftovers from royal banquets. Thus, it has been claimed that "paella" derives from the Arabic word "baqiyah," which means "leftovers." Another more fanciful tale states paella was created by a man for his lover, and that "paella" is a corruption of the phrase "para ella," meaning "for her." It seems more likely that the word "paella" derives from the Latin word "patella," which means "pan."

The term "paella," which is commonly used to refer to the food, actually refers to the "cooking pan" and not the rice dish itself, making the Latin origin apt. The dish is more properly referred to as "arroz a la paella" though most everyone nowadays just refers to the dish as paella. Interestingly, the term "arroz," which means "rice," is derived from Arabic, which makes sense as the Moors introduced rice to the region.

"Valencians have the confident belief, to me it seems well-founded, that nobody knows how to cook rice better than them."
---Francisco de Paula Martí (1818)

We know that during the 19th century, field and farm workers commonly prepared paella, using rice and whatever else was readily available, and cooking it over a wood fire. The first known written recipe for paella appeared in 1840. The first paellas, even in Valencia, didn't contain seafood, and might have instead snails, chicken, rabbit or duck, plus vegetables like green beans, tomatoes and onions. Over time, as seafood was common in the region, it began to be added to some paella dishes.    Today, there are many, many different varieties of paella.

The traditional paella pan is large, round and flat, with a relatively short height, allowing the rice to have maximum contact with the bottom of the pan. The expensive spice saffron has also become an important ingredient for paella. A number of different rice types may be used, including Bahía, Senia, Leda, Balilla, and Bomba, with the common element being that these rice types can absorb plenty of liquid and flavor. Bomba seems to be the top choice of many Spanish chefs. And please note that March 27 is considered National Paella Day.

Which wine should you pair with Paella? It will depend in part on what type of paella you are enjoying, whether it has more seafood or other types of meat. I would begin by suggesting you drink Spanish wine, though obviously plenty of wines from other regions would work well too. Sticking with Spanish wine, my top choice would be Sherry, especially a Fino or Manzanilla if the paella has seafood. If the paella is more meat heavy, then I'd suggest an Amontillado or Oloroso Sherry. A dry Spanish Rosé would also work well with most Paella. I'd even recommend Cava, a Spanish sparkling wine. With seafood-heavy paella, white wines, like Albarino and Godello, would be nice choices, and for meat-heavy paella, red wines like Mencia, Rioja, and Garnacha would work nicely.

About ninety people attended the Paella Showdown, with some people, including myself, sitting outside and the weather cooperated, a fine evening for sitting on the patio. As we enjoyed some wine, servers came by with appetizers, including Patatas Bravas, Datiles con Jamon, Tortilla Espanola, and Pintxo de Gambas. All of them were tasty, especially the Datiles con Jamon, dates with blue cheese, wrapped in Serrano ham. I was drinking an excellent Sherry, the Alexander Jules Fino 22/85, which was a superb pairing with the appetizers as well as later with the paella.

This is Chris' paella pan and it's obviously well-used.

On the other hand, Jamie's paella pan seems much newer. Will this affect the competition?

Jamie began cooking his paella first and the following are a number of pictures showing his progress.

While the paella cooked, incredibly alluring aromas wafted through the air, making us eager to taste the paella.

As you aren't supposed to stir the rice in the paella, Jamie is turning the large pan about a quarter turn, which will help mix everything.

Jamie added mussels to his paella.

And this is the finished paella, which looks beautiful!

Chris started his paella after Jamie was about half done with his paella.

Adding rice to the paella.

Chris dug these local clams himself.

The final product, which looks somewhat different from Jaime's paella, is also beautiful and enticing. Both paellas looked like what I've previously enjoyed in Spain.

We all got a plate of each paella and this is from Jaime's pan. It possessed a great depth of flavor, a nice balance of tastes and textures. Great paella possesses socarrat, which is the caramelized and crusty rice at the bottom of the pan. Some of that crunch existed in Jaime's paella and I was sure to empty my plate. Absolutely delicious.

The paella from Chris had larger pieces of pork and shrimp, and a greater amount of socarrat. It too presented with an excellent depth of flavor and a nice balance. Again, this paella was absolutely delicious, and it certainly was near impossible to decide which paella was better. Though they shared some common characteristics, each also had their own unique taste. Both dishes would please any paella lover.

The vote was taken and it was extremely close, with about 15 people abstaining from voting. In the end, with a 39-37 victory, the winner was Chef Jamie Bissonnette! With such close results, I think it is fair to say both chefs made stellar paella and well deserve kudos for their culinary skills. Paella is such a great dish and both chefs should be very proud of their efforts. This was an absolutely fun event and they may repeat it in the future. If so, I highly recommend you attend.

Rant: Why Don't Men Love Wine?

"Men collect, women appreciate--discuss."
--Rosi Hanson

For over ten years, there have been multiple studies showing that generally women purchase more wine than men. There are more men who collect wine, who amass large wine cellars, while women most often tend to buy everyday drinking wines. A recent Gallup Poll indicates how few men actually prefer wine to beer and spirits. Why is that the case? Why don't more men love wine?

50% of women prefer wine to either beer or spirits, with about 19% opting for beer and 28% preferring spirits. With men, only 11% prefer wine, while 62% choose beer as their primary choice and 24% choose spirits. So, roughly only one in ten men prefers wine to other alcoholic beverages. Another Gallup Poll, from July 2017, provides some more details on this result. That poll indicates "Less-educated and middle-income Americans also tend to choose beer" which may indicate wine still is seen as a snobbish beverage in some circles.

When men and women are combined into a single group, then 40% prefer beer over wine (30%) and spirits (26%). Over the past twenty years, the percentage of those who prefer beer has decreased from a high of about 46%, and it seems to be on a continued decline. Wine reached a high of about 39% in 2005, but has been on a decline since then. And spirits have generally been steady at about 20% but are on an increase at the moment.

The rise of craft beers and spirits has obviously played a part in some people choosing beer and spirits over wine. And there are cultural matters too which lead to those results, such as sports fans who will more often opt for a beer. Beer is also cheap for those who want to drink to get drunk. However, there also seems to be an image problem with wine, primarily with men. Wine just doesn't seem as accessible as beer or spirits. There is probably still a perception that wine lovers are elitist snobs. We need to shatter these images and preconceptions.

We need to make wine more accessible, to persuade people that wine is for everyone, no matter who you are. We need to normalize the consumption of wine so that it seems ordinary for any occasion, from watching a football game to just sitting in the backyard. We don't need to create specific "man" wines as the industry has done with some wines they specifically market to women, from Mommy's Time Out to Sassy Bitch.

Wine is for everyone, men and women!

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Gordon Wilcox, CEO of Wilcox Hospitality Group; Dr. William G. Austen, Jr., Chief of the Division of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery at Massachusetts General Hospital; Brian Poe, chef & co-owner of The Tip Tap Room, Poe’s Taco Room at Lower Depths and Bukowski Tavern – Cambridge, will all come together on Monday, October 2, at 6:00pm, for the 4th annual “Chefs for Clefts” fundraiser at The Tip Tap Room to benefit the Massachusetts General Hospital’s Global Surgical Initiative.

Funds raised from the charitable fête will directly assist Dr. William G. Austen, Jr.’s “Cartagena Surgical Missions” that support children with facial deformities and cleft lips as well as burn victims in Colombia. During its existence, the Cartagena Surgical Mission has served more than 700 children who otherwise would have no access to care.

This festive “Night in Colombia” themed event will kick-off with South American music as well as complimentary Colombian-inspired cocktails and passed hors d'oeuvres, as prepared by The Tip Tap Room’s Brian Poe and David Spinazzola.

Brian Poe and chef friends Andy Husbands (Tremont 647; Smoke Shop), Jose Duarte (Taranta), Lydia Shire (Scampo), Rodney Murillo (Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse; Davio’s Cucina), Nick Calias (Brasserie Jo), Mark Sapienza (BOND at The Langham, Boston), Will Gilson (Puritan & Company) and Jason Bond (Bondir) – among others – each graciously have donated a three-course “dinner for ten” with wine pairings at their respective restaurants which will be up for bid during the live auction. Supporters also will have the opportunity to mix and mingle with some the city’s top culinary luminaries who will be present at this evening with a cause.

COST: General Admission (includes open bar and passed hors d'oeuvres): $80 per person in advance; $100 per person at the door
MORE INFO: To purchase event tickets or to make a donation to the Cartagena Surgical Mission, please visit: https://because.massgeneral.org/events/-/e142342.

2) On Monday, September 25, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, North End seafood destination il Molo will host its first-ever wine dinner inspired by the Southern Hemisphere’s unique wine culture. Featuring a four-course dinner specially crafted by Executive Chef Pino Maffeo, each dish will be complemented by hand-selected wines from vineyards across Australia and New Zealand. il Molo is teaming up with local wine making specialist Tom Tellier of Signature Brands for the evening, who will be on-site to guide guests through the nuances of the four wines.

MENU
Upon Arrival
Spy Valley Rose 2017 Marlborough, NZ
First Course
Tuna Crudo (soy, wasabi, olive oil, bread crisps)
Satellite Sauvignon Blanc 2016 Marlborough, NZ
Second Course
Watermelon Salad (Fried Oysters with sambal aioli)
Roaring Meg Riesling 2014 Central Otago Au
Third Course
Hay Roasted Trout (Warm Brussels salad, smoked raisin emulsion)
Roaring Meg Pinot Noir 2014 Central Otago Au.
Fourth Course
Coconut Cake
House made vermouth

TICKETS: Tickets are $69 each (plus tax and gratuity) and can be purchased on Eventbrite
For more information or for grouped seating requests, please call (857) 277-1895.

3) The Mandarin Oriental, Boston has announced the return of Maki@MO, a pop-up sushi lounge located in the hotel lobby.

"An inviting place to gather socially and unwind after a busy day in Back Bay, guests are able sit amongst the lobby’s exotic blonde wood paneling and enjoy an assortment of traditional and signature hand-rolled sushi, appropriately paired with sommelier selected wines and a unique assortment of Japanese beer and whiskey."

Available through October 28, the select Maki@MO menu will be served as follows:
--Atlantic Maki tuna and avocado 8 pieces for $12
--New England Maki tuna, tempura flakes, and spicy mayonnaise 8 pieces for $12
--Boylston Maki crabmeat, avocado, cucumber and tobiko 8 pieces for $12
--Boston Maki salmon, avocado and cucumber 8 pieces for $12
--The signature Mandarin Oriental Maki crabmeat, avocado and cucumber, topped with a colorful display of salmon, tuna, shrimp and avocado 10 pieces for $18.

Serving Tuesday to Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m., both casual seated dining and Maki@MO “to go” orders will be available. The Lobby Lounge at Mandarin Oriental, Boston is able to entertain 25 seated guests or a reception for up to 50.

Gin Lane 1751: Victoria Pink Gin

Juniper, a crucial ingredient in Gin, has been revered for at least two thousand years for medicinal purposes. Around the 16th century, it would be the Dutch who would finally distill a juniper-flavored alcohol, which they called genever, creating a spirit that was intended to be something other than a medicine. Around the 1690s, genever began to be exported to England and it quickly become the most popular spirit, especially with the lower classes, and it was renamed gin.

It helped that unlicensed gin manufacture was legal in England, so gin proliferated across the country.  By the 1730s, people in London were drinking an average of 2 pints a week. However, all of this gin consumption was alleged to lead to increased crime and other undesirable attributes so the government took some steps to curb consumption, starting in 1729 with a law that increased the retail tax on gin. Then, in 1736, another law was passed that imposed a draconian expensive license fee for gin retailers while also raising the retail tax. In essence, the fee was so high, only two licenses were ever obtained and consumption dipped for a short time.

However, illegal gin shops started to sprout up and riots occurred, protesting the 1736 Act. Eventually, the Act was changed, leading to decreases in the retail license fee and retail taxes. However, the government was still concerned about gin consumption, leading to The Sale of Spirits Act 1750 (known as the Gin Act 1751) which prohibited gin distillers from selling to unlicensed retailers and also increased retailer fees. The effect was to eliminate most small gin shops, limiting sales to larger distillers and retailers, and making gin more expensive for consumers. This was more successful and within the decade, the so-called Gin Craze had ended.

In homage to this Act, Gin Lane 1751 was established, a company which produces gin that hearkens back to Victorian times. The company is a partnership between Charles Maxwell of Thames Distillers, an eighth generation distiller, and The Bloomsbury Club, a group of gin lovers and drinks industry professionals. As their website states, "Our beautifully handcrafted family of gins is of a classic Victorian style originating in an age when there was a bold predominance of juniper berries, hints of liquorice and a refreshing citrus finish. For your edification, we have created a well-balanced, complex gin of eight natural botanicals."

They currently produce four gins, including the London Dry Gin, London Dry Royal Strength Gin, Old Tom Gin, and Victoria Pink Gin, each priced at about $24.99 to make them more affordable. "Gin Lane 1751 is going back to gin’s roots with a bold yet refreshing profile along with three varietals that all have history and origin in the Victorian period.” Each gin is handcrafted in small traditional pot stills and contain eight natural botanicals, including juniper, orris root, Seville oranges, angelica, Sicilian lemon, star anise, cassia bark and coriander.

I received a media sample of the Victoria Pink Gin, which has a beautiful pink color from the addition of natural blended spiced bitters, and doesn't contain any artificial colorings or flavoring. It is said that the British Royal Navy was the first to mix gin with bitters, allegedly as a cure for sea sickness. You may see the Pink Gin cocktail at some local bars, which simply adds bitters to gin. The Victoria Pink Gin does that blending already for you, so you can drink it as is, or use it as a primary ingredient in a cocktail.

The Victoria Pink Gin possesses a prominent juniper aroma so there is no mistaking that it is gin. However, on the palate, this is a very balanced gin, with a complex and interesting melange of botanicals and a strong spicy element from the bitters. It is smooth and easy drinking, with a lingering and pleasant finish. The spiciness within this gin was intriguing, placing it above many other gins, and I think that element would elevate your usual gin cocktails. I'm very choosy about the gins I enjoy, and this is one I would strongly recommend.

2010 Gloria Ferrer Anniversary Cuvée: Plus Waffles & Bacon

Waffles, Bacon & Bubbly: The Lunch of Champions

This past Sunday, I enjoyed a delectable lunch of home-made waffles and bacon, accompanied by a bottle of Sparkling Wine. First, as I've long said, traditional breakfast dishes taste just as good if you serve them for lunch or dinner. Who says you can't have a stack of blueberry pancakes for dinner? It isn't easy finding restaurants serving such breakfast items for lunch or dinner, but you can always prepare them at home. I love waffles and I'll eat them at any time, whether it's noon or nine in the evening.

Second, I've also said on multiple occasions that more people should drink Sparkling Wine with food. It can make an excellent pairing for a wide diversity of dishes. Unfortunately, many people primarily see bubbly as a celebratory wine, something to have before you begin eating. It most often is the opening toast to a dinner and other wine is brought out for the actual meal. However, we have to get over that preconception and embrace Sparkling Wine and food pairings, drinking bubbly during the entire course of your meal.

It doesn't have to be a special occasion when you break out a bottle of bubbly. I opened a bottle of Sparkling Wine on Sunday just because a friend came over for lunch. That was special enough for me. And I also thought it would go well with Waffles & Bacon! Bacon & bubbly is an easy pairing, as bubbly often goes well with salty dishes, from oysters to potato chips. And as for my waffle, smothered in butter, the crisp bubbly cut through the fat of the butter. It was simply a fun and tasty pairing, not a usual pairing, but experimenting with wine pairings is a worthy endeavor.

For my waffles and bacon, I chose a sparkling wine from Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards, a media sample I received. The roots of this winery extend back to the 16th century, to the Ferrer family which would eventually produce Sparkling Wine, creating the Freixenet Cava in 1915. During the early 1930s, Pedro Ferrer Bosch traveled to the U.S., desirous of producing Sparkling Wine there but had to return to Spain near the start of the Spanish Civil War. It would be up to his son, José Ferrer, and José's wife Gloria, to follow Pedro's dream.

In 1982, José and Gloria purchased 160 acres in the Carneros region of Sonoma County, planting about 75% of the land with Pinot Noir and the rest with Chardonnay. Four years later, they opened as Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards, being the first Sparkling Wine producer in the Carneros region. Since then, their holdings have grown to about 335 acres, and they produce a number of still wines as well. Sustainability is very important to them, and they were among the first wineries in California to implement the Code of Sustainable Winegrowing Practices.

The Gloria Ferrer 2010 Anniversary Cuvée ($40) was produced from a blend of 67% Pinot Noir and 33% Chardonnay, the grapes from their estate vineyards in Carneros. Only the first press of the grapes was used for this wine and it is also a blend of 14 separately fermented lots, all from the 2010 vintage. The 2010 vintage was one of the coolest on record, and produced excellent grapes with plenty of concentration and character. The lots were fermented about 6 months prior to that blending and then the blended wine remained in the bottle, on the lees, for another five and a half years before it was disgorged.

This Sparkling Wine presents an alluring aroma, enticing fruit flavors with a hint of vanilla, as well as tiny and persistent bubbles. On the palate, it is elegant and crisp, with a creamy mouthfeel and delicious tastes of pear, green apple, vanilla, and light spice notes. There are even subtle red fruit flavors flitting within your palate, especially on the lengthy and satisfying finish. Plenty of complexity, bright acidity, and pure hedonistic pleasure. And this Cuvée paired very well with the waffles and bacon, elevating that simple lunch. The Cuvée would pair well with many different dishes, from oysters to lobster, burgers to pizza. Highly recommended!

The next time you're planning a wine pairing for your lunch or dinner, consider a Sparkling Wine. And then consider the bubbly from Gloria Ferrer.