Monday, February 1, 2021

Celebrating Tết Nguyên Đán: Vietnamese New Year

Many people know about the upcoming Chinese New Year, which begins on February 12, starting the Year of the Ox. It's the most important holiday to the Chinese, and the first public celebration in Massachusetts was 150 years ago, in 1871. However, Vietnamese New Year, which also follows a lunar calendar, will celebrate their New Year on February 12 too. 

The holiday is known as Tết Nguyên Đán, which means 'Feast of the First Morning of the First Day.' and is commonly abbreviated as Tết. Like the Chinese, the Vietnamese have many customs and rituals around their celebration of this holiday, from special foods to family reunions. So, now is the time to learn more about Tết, to open our hearts and minds to Vietnamese culture and cuisine. 

I've spoken to a couple Vietnamese women, who own restaurants, to provide some information about Tết and what it means to them. Tran Ngoc Lee, of Viet Citron in Burlington, and Sa Nguyen, of Soall Viet Kitchen in Beverly, were gracious enough to answer my questions. I've positively reviewed both of their restaurants during the past year with Viet Citron being one of my Favorite Restaurants of 2020, and Soall Viet Kitchen being my first restaurant review of 2021. Both earned my hearty recommendation. 


Tran Ngoc Lee, of Viet Citron in Burlington

1. What is the meaning or significance of Tết to you? 
Tết is a great time for multi-generations to connect through traditions. We gather to listen to family stories, making pickles, bánh tét / bánh chưng (steamed sticky rice cakes) all night. It’s a celebrations of spring time and renewal energy to bring good health and fortune to everyone. 

2. Will your restaurant celebrate Tết in any way? Any special events? Special menu items? 
We have the Tet’s special of Thit Kho Dua Gia (Braised pork & eggs w/ pickles). It’s one of the traditions that’s always on the Tet’s table. Kids get red envelopes w/ money when saying well wishes to adults, and adults would bring gifts like tea, cakes, or decorated fresh fruits when visiting other household during Tet / Lunar New Year 

3. How will you personally celebrate Tết? 
Tet in the US is quiet. We pray to the ancestors on the first day, have a family lunch, get red envelopes then go home. During pre-Covid, we had church celebrations with cultural shows and every family bring a dish and the whole church or temple would dine together. This year we just stay home. 

4. What special foods will you eat on Tết?
Braised Pork, sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves, different homemade pickles, cut watermelons, and candied fruits served w/ tea were very common. 

5. What should non-Vietnamese should know or understand about Tết? 
Tet / Lunar New Year is like a long Thanksgiving for Vietnamese and Chinese....only say nice things to them on the first day....If you don’t get along w/ someone, don’t show up at their door first day of new year...it’s bad luck. Tet is a 10 days celebrations. We used to gamble, eat, drinks, days and nights for the first 3 days...doesn’t matter w/ age 

Sa Nguyen, of Soall Viet Kitchen in Beverly

1. What is the meaning or significance of Tết to you? 
     It has always been reiterated to me that Tết is a celebration of new beginnings. I remember weeks beforehand, my mom would start preparing by cleaning out the house and getting rid of old and unwanted things. She would order new clothes to be sewn for us so that we would have them to wear for Tet. 
     One of the things that always struck me as the most meaningful is that Tet is a time for forgiveness and reconciliation. It was a time for bygones be bygones and start anew. 
     I came to the states when I was 9 and although my Mother tried her best to keep up with the traditions by making the usual Tet treats and tradition of paying homage to our ancestors, the celebrations at home were not as vibrant and as elaborate. The respect for the holiday and what it is about carries through year after year. 

2. Will your restaurant celebrate Tết in any way? Any special events? Special menu items? 
In the past, we have given out red envelopes with lucky money to young children. I would imagine that we would do the same this year. 

3. How will you personally celebrate Tết? 
     Back in Vietnam, I remember celebrating Tet with my family extensive. The first day of Tet is reserved for immediate family members and this tradition was taken very seriously. We would wake up and be dressed in our best. First, we would a family prayer to our ancestors and pay homage. Next, my siblings and I would gather in front of my parents and each of us would take turns and wish them good health and prosperity for the year ahead. And we would work on making sure that our individual wish was the best. It would turn into a friendly competition as one would try to out do one another for the best wish given. In return, our parents would hand each of us a red envelope with lucky money. We celebrated the first day of Tet within our immediate family. Mom would make the most elaborate meal and food would be eaten throughout the day. 
     The 2nd day of tet was celebrated with near by relatives and friends. We would visit each household and one by one would repeat the wish of good health and prosperity and receive our red envelopes with good luck money. Once the formal visitations were done and our dutiful biddings, we would return home and be released into the street markets to play games, buy things and gamble away our good luck money. 
      It was always on the third day of Tet when we would travel to Saigon, where the most elaborate celebration of Tet is held. The streets were filled with the most vibrant colors with lanterns, fireworks, flowers, etc. The lion dances were always so enthralling to watch. 

4. What special foods will you eat on Tết?
I remember eating so many different things.. but mostly, banh tet (which is made with sticky rice, pork and mung beans), xoi (sticky rice), mut (dried fruits like cocunut, sugar-coated ginger slices) pickled veggies, and some form of elaborate meal that Mom would make. 

5. What should non-Vietnamese should know or understand about Tết? 
It is the most important and celebrated holiday. Everyone celebrates Tet and everyone turns a year older as individual birthdays were not celebrated.

Will you be celebrating Tết in any manner? Now is a good time to dine at local Vietnamese restaurants, especially any place new to you. Look beyond Bahn Mi and Pho and sample some of the other wonderful dishes of Vietnamese cuisine. Open your heart and minds and learn more about to Vietnamese culture. 

Thursday, January 28, 2021

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events. For now, some of these events will simply be the opening of certain restaurants, generally ones dear to my heart for a variety of reasons. And I hope everyone dines out safely, and tips well.
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1) Red 8, the traditional Chinese restaurant within Encore Boston Harbor, will be offering a Lunar New Year Feast on February 11-21 for four guests. This feast is only available for dine-in only guests. 
This will be the first Lunar New Year where the new Red 8 Executive Chef, Richard Chen, will be at the helm. Chef Chen came from Wing Lei inside Wynn Las Vegas where he earned a Michelin star in both 2008 and 2009.

There are two Lunar New Year Feasts available, one for $188 for a table of four people (with $48 more per extra guest) and another for $288 for a table of four people (with $72 more per extra guest). Some of the dishes include Braised Fish Maw Soup, Braised Sea Moss with Golden Oysters, Crispy Chicken, Steamed Fresh Whole Fish, Red Bean Jelly Cake, Wok Tossed Lobster, and Sampan Dungeness Crab.  

To make reservations, log onto https://www.encorebostonharbor.com/dining-and-nightlife. For additional questions, please call (857) 770-3388. 

2) Oysters are delicious, but at $3-$4 each, they are often more of a luxury item. However, when you find $1 Oyster specials, then it's often the time to splurge on a dozen or more. Grill 23 & Bar, located in Boston's Back Bay is now offering Island Creek Oysters for just $1 each every Tuesday through Thursday, from 5pm-7pm. Island Creek Oysters are one of my favorites, and I love their briny taste. I'd recommend stopping by Grill 23 soon to savor some inexpensive and delicious oysters.

3) Local non-profit Rodman for Kids purchased $50,000 worth of gift cards from restaurants and culinary partners including Davio's, the Smoke Shop, Legal Seafoods, Flour Bakery, and more to be distributed to Rodman for Kids affiliate charities for families in need. After a year that hit the restaurant industry hard, Rodman for Kids sought to give back to the many Boston area chefs and restaurants that have supported the organization for years through their annual holiday gala, Celebration for Kids.

“We at Rodman for Kids believe in community, collaboration and supporting organizations that care for and nurture youth, especially those most in need,” explained Rodman for Kids President Joe D’Arrigo. “We foster working together to achieve individual goals rather than competition. Through the years the restaurants and chefs of Boston have worked together collaboratively to support us. This was a perfect year to support them and in doing so feed families that our partner organizations care for. We believe in creating win-win scenarios." 

Rodman for Kids Executive Director Amy Rossman expressed the toll the pandemic has taken on the community, saying “Kids and families are facing unprecedented challenges as we navigate the pandemic. We could not let a cancelled gala stop us from supporting organizations who help kids overcome these challenges, and fortunately our sponsors and donors shared our resolve. We look forward to a time when we can gather for a Celebration for Kids again, but in the meantime we’re immensely grateful for a community of supporters who are committed to making a difference.

Rodman for Kids works year-round to raise funds for youth-focused social-service organizations supporting positive youth development and knows their work is a group effort amongst donors, sponsors, chefs, and more, making this latest initiative all the more important. While continuing their core-mission of helping kids and families, Rodman for Kids is excited to be able to expand their support by helping out the restaurants that have helped them make Celebration for Kids such a resounding success in the past.

4) Celebrate Valentine's Day, February 14,  from 5:30pm11:30pm, this year at Zuma, located in the Four Seasons One Dalton. Zuma will transform Valentine’s night into a Coney Island-themed getaway complete with a special omakase offering, champagne packages and special Valentine’s Day cocktails. From popcorn and snow-cones to psychic and tarot card readings, expect the unexpected as you strike a pose at the photo booth and score prizes from carnival-inspired games. 

In addition to serving up its signature menu, Chef Helmy Saadon has created a 13-course omakase experience that is as extravagant as the night’s theme. After supping East and West Coast oysters, indulge in a watercress and avocado salad, rock shrimp with lime and chili tofu, and sliced seabass sashimi with truffle. The next course includes grilled scallops and a chu toro tartare with ponzu, saikyo miso bun and caviar. For raw offerings, there is a selection of chef-selected sashimi and sushi and a fatty tuna roll with scallion and caviar. The entrée course comes fourfold with a Boston lobster served atop a miso bun, miso-marinated black cod, shiitake mushrooms with garlic and soy butter, and a US beef tenderloin with truffle ponzu and fresh shaved truffle. The culinary ride ends with a Valentine’s-themed dessert platter. 

Cost: Omakase: $135 per person; Tax & gratuity not included. A la carte items and supplemental items are priced separately.
Reservations are available by contacting (857) 449-2500 

Wednesday, January 27, 2021

Yuki Otoko "Yeti" Honjozo Sake: Like Melting Snow

What is that hairy creature on the label? 

It is the Yuki Otoko, the Snow Yeti. The illustration is from a 19th century book, the Hokuetsu Seppu, Snow Stories of North Etsu Province, written by Suzuki Bokushi. This book was an extensive work on the life in the snowy southern region of the Niigata region and became extremely popular. Bokushi was a textile merchant and author, and also is an ancestor of the Aoki Shuzo, the Sake brewery which now produces this Sake. The Yuki Otoko is alleged to inhabit the snowy mountains of Niigata, and sometimes helps travelers who are lost or in need of assistance in the mountains. 

The Aoki Shuzo was founded in 1717, making it over 300 years old, and it is located in Shiozawa, an area well known for both its quality rice and well water.  They are a very traditional brewery, and only produce Sake during the cold months rather than year round like some other breweries. The Niigata region is famous for producing a certain style of Sake, known as Tanrei-Karakuchi, which is light, crisp and dry. However, Aoki Shuzo aims for a slightly different style, what they call Tanrei-Umakuchi, which is crisp and dry but with more umami. 

It's also interesting to note that Aoki Shuzo donates part of their proceeds to support rescue efforts for hikers lost in the snowy mountains. emulating the Snow Yeti who was also said to assist hikers.

The Yuki Otoko "Yeti" Honjozo (about $28) is a premium Sake, made from only five ingredients: rice, water, yeast, koji-kin, and a little distilled alcohol. It was made with Gohyakumangoku and Koishibuki rice, polished down to 65%, a bit more than what is required to be a Honjozo. The Sake also has a 15.5% ABV, a SMV +8 (meaning its generally dry), and an Acidity of 1.2. It is said to be "Dry, light and clean like melting snow."It also can be served chilled, warmed, or at room temperature. 

I drank this chilled, and found it to be a clean and refreshing Sake, with a savory kick of umami. Subtle melon and citrus flavors with the umami taking center stage. This would be excellent for seafood, mushrooms, or truffle dishes. The umami of the Sake makes it even more food friendly. Or you can just enjoy this Sake on its own, slowly sipped and enjoyed. Highly recommended. 

Monday, January 25, 2021

Rant: How Much Should A Bánh Mì Cost?


In general, restaurants operate on very small profit margins. That's a fact that many people need to understand. Their menu prices are not intended to gouge your wallet but rather to support the functioning of the restaurant, to pay the bills, to pay their employees, and to hopefully give at least a small profit to the owner. Those are the same basic objectives of any for-profit business. 

Some people seem to believe that if they can find a food item for a cheap price somewhere, that the same item should be priced similarly everywhere. However, just because you might be able to get a cheeseburger for $1.00 at a large chain restaurant doesn't mean all restaurants should charge that price. There are numerous factors to consider in evaluating the price of a burger and whether it's reasonable or not. 

The same applies to the famed Vietnamese sandwich, the Bánh Mì. Some local Vietnamese restaurants have offered very inexpensive Bánh Mì, from $4-$5, and that has led some to believe that Bánh Mì, at any restaurant, shouldn't cost much more than that, and especially not over $10.  

I know two newer, suburban Vietnamese restaurants which charge $11-$12 for their Bánh Mì. I consider both to be reasonably priced and I don't see any reason to complain about the prices. Both places have received some feedback from others that their prices are too high, and I've also personally heard from a few people complaining about their prices. These complainers are failing to properly take into consideration all the factors going into pricing. 

For example, what is the cost of their ingredients? If they are using higher quality ingredients, then their costs are higher so they have to raise their prices. Would you rather that they used cheaper, lesser quality ones? Are they using just any baguette, or do they have a bakery especially making baguettes for them? How much work goes into the preparation of their Bánh Mì? Are they slow cooking their meats, marinating them over the course of a day or so? Are they making their own pickled vegetables? Are they using house-made sauces?

Consider as well that these Vietnamese restaurants are generally small businesses, not some large chains. They need to price their items appropriately so that their business can survive. In addition, they are often run by passionate people who want to serve their communities, to share their love for their native cuisine. Their goal is not to become wealthy but rather to make enough to live. If you speak to these owners, you won't get the impression they are trying to gouge or overcharge their customers. They are trying to fairly price their items.

Consumers need to start paying the true value of the food they consume. They shouldn't expect that certain types of food must always be cheap. They should think about their own business, and whether they would be happy charging the lowest price in the market for their services or products. Stop complaining about  Bánh Mì prices and simply enjoy that delicious sandwich.

Saturday, January 23, 2021

New Sampan Article: A Boston Origin of Duck Sauce?


"The most interesting feature of Chinese life to me was that on board their boats, or sampans, as they are called....Upon these boats live whole families of three and even four generations."
--The Fall River Daily Herald, November 20, 1888

As I've mentioned previously, I've a new writing gig, contributing to Sampan, the only bilingual Chinese-English newspaper in New England. I've previously written fourteen articles for Sampan, including:


My newest article, A Boston Origin of Duck Sauce?, is now available in the new issue of Sampan. Duck sauce is ubiquitous at most Chinese-American restaurants, and you can even find it at non-Asian restaurants. However, what is its origin? Was it an American invention? Is duck sauce just a renaming of plum or hoisin sauce? I explore the origins of duck sauce and find evidence that Boston could potentially be where duck sauce acquired its name. 

I'm currently working on a new article for the Sampan. 

What is a "sampan?" The newspaper's site states, "A sampan is a popular river boat in traditional China. This small but useful vessel, by transporting cargo from large boats to the village ports, creates a channel of communication among villages." And like that type of boat, Sampan delivers news and information all across New England, and "acts a bridge between Asian American community organizations and individuals in the Greater Boston area."

Sampan, which was founded in 1972, is published by the nonprofit Asian American Civic Association, "The newspaper covers topics that are usually overlooked by the mainstream press, such as key immigration legislation, civil rights, housing, education, day-care services and union activities. These issues are crucial to the well-being of Asian immigrants, refugees, low-income families as well as individuals who are not proficient in the English language."

There is plenty of interest in Sampan which will appeal to all types of readers, from restaurant reviews to historical articles, from vital news stories to travel items. In these current days when racism and prejudice against Asians and their restaurants is high, it's more important than ever that accurate information about the Asian community is disseminated and promoted. We need to combat the irrational prejudices that some possess, and support our Asian communities just as we would support any other element of our overall community. We are all important aspects of a whole, and we need to stand together.

Support Sampan!