Wednesday, November 1, 2023

Exploring Ponte de Lima in the Vinho Verde

On our first day in Portugal, we traveled to Ponte de Lima, the oldest chartered town in Portugal, which is located on the banks of the Lima River in the Vinho Verde region. We visited some of the sights in this scenic and historic town, enjoying its beauty and history. Yesterday, I wrote about our visit to Vinho Verde Interpretation & Promotion Center. Today, I'm going to detail the other sights we saw in Ponte de Lima. Fortunately, we didn't have any rain that day.

A statue of Dona Teresa, once the Queen of Portugal, who granted the charter to Ponte De Lima in 1125. The statue shows her holding out a document, which is probably the charter. 


An army of Romans, led by Decius Juno Brutus, came to the area of Ponte de Lima around 136 B.C. When they reached the Lima River, much of the army refused to cross it because they believed the river was actually Lethes, the mythical River of Forgetfulness. Allegedly, if you crossed the river, you would forget your entire life, and the Romans were terrified that might occur. Their leader, Brutus, safely crossed the river and eventually persuaded the rest of the army to follow him. 

The Romans eventually, around 1 A.D., constructed a bridge across the Lima River, and that bridge was later renovated and improved during the 14th century. 





More photos of the bridge. 

At one end of the bridge, near a church, was a small shrine with azulejos, glazed ceramic tiles, usually with blue painting, which are a common artwork in Portugal. 

Near the shrine was a statue, stating "Bom Caminho," ("good road" or "the right path"). This is a typical pilgrim greeting.



Across from the shrine and pilgrim statue is the Church of Santo António da Torre Vellha ("Old Tower"), which was constructed in the 19th century.  

Behind the church is the small Chapel of Anjo da Guarda ("Guardian Angel"), which may date to the 13th century. 
  


This tower had an intriguing azulejos mosaic, which was created by Jorge Colaço, a famed Portuguese painter. It's caption states, "Cabras São, Senhor," which roughly translates as "They are goats, Sir." The mosaic depicts King Afonso Henriques, around 1140 AD, on a hunt. While enjoying dinner at the Chaplain of the Nuns of the Monastery of Vitorino das Donas, the group worried about great sounds and lots of dust in the distance, fearing it might be an enemy army. When scouts checked out the situation, they returned to King Afonso and told him that "They are goats, sir."

A statue of José António Francisco Maria Xavier de Sá Coutinho, the Conde d'Aurora ("Count of Aurora"), a 20th century magistrate and writer of Ponte de Lima. One of his novels, O Pinto, won a major Portuguese literary award in 1935. 

This is O Amor Eo Tempo, a famous poem about love and time by poet António Feijó, who was from Ponte de Lima. 

Bronze statues, ''Alegoria as Feiras novas e no folclore'' (''Allegory to the New Fairs and Folklore'') created in 2009 by sculptor Salvador Vieira (1937-2017).

    
More bronze statues, this time of farmers using traditional techniques. 


This bronze bull statue commemorates the traditional Vaca da Cordas, whose origins are lost in the ancient past. It takes place on the day before the Feast of Corpus Christi, and a bull is led through the city on several ropes. It's still dangerous and some people who get too close to the bull have been injured. But, it's a joyous occasion, with much festivities.

The Igreja Matriz ("Mother Church") of Ponte de Lima, constructed during the 15th century.

Another mosaic of azulejos, depicting King João ("John") IV, the Restorer, who reigned from 1640-1656. 






Photos from inside the church. Such intricate and beautiful artwork. This would be common in a number of the churches we visited in northern Portugal. The dedication, skill and passion of the artists is amazing. 

And now, just a number of other photos of Ponte de Lima.







So rare to see a phone booth any longer in the U.S.



Ponte de Lima was a charming and beautiful town, and I only scratched the surface of the sights. I highly recommend you visit if you visit the Vinho Verde region. 

Tuesday, October 31, 2023

Vinho Verde Interpretation & Promotion Center: Ponte de Lima

While wandering through Ponte de Lima, in the Vinho Verde region, we stopped at the Centro de Interpretação e Promoção do Vinho Verde (CIPVV), the "Vinho Verde Interpretation & Promotion Center," which is partially located in the Casa Torreada Dos Barbosa Aranha, a historical tower that was built in the 17th century. 

The CIPVV has a number of goals, but it's primarily to promote the region and wines of the Vinho Verde. They also conduct numerous research projects concerning the region. As such, the building contains a museum (with both permanent and temporary exhibits), a small theater and a tasting room.  If you want to know more about Vinho Verde and its wines, this is a good place to gain a basic understanding. 

We walked through the museum, although the temporary exhibit room was currently closed as it was being renovated. 



There were numerous pieces of old equipment that once were used in the area.

This is the costume of the Confraria do Vinho Verde, the Brotherhood of Vinho Verde. It includes a green cape, lined and hemmed in black and yellow ribbon, with a bunch of silver grapes (which is the symbol of the brotherhood). In addition, a wide brimmed black hat and a silver badge would complete the costume. Since 1990, the Confraria has been supporting and promoting the study of Vinho Verde, its traditions, history, gastronomy, wine tourism and folklore.

An old bottle for Red Vinho Verde, which was far more common in the past.


From an outside deck in the tower, there was a gorgeous view of Ponte de Lima, where you can even see the famed bridge. You can also look down and see some grapes vines in land behind the tower.

A Loureiro vine, a major white grape in the Lima region. 


After watching a short film on Vinho Verde and its wines, we adjourned to the tasting room, which displayed about 60 wines on its walls. We tasted 4 Vinho Verde wines, three whites and one red. Each was priced from 5 to 6.5 Euros, and were excellent values at those prices. 

The 2020 Quinta Pousada de Fora Arinto (5 Euros) is produced from 100% Arinto and has a 14% ABV. It was bright and crisp, without any effervescence, and tasty flavors of green apple and lemon, as well as some mineral notes. Tasty on its own, it would pair well with seafood and light chicken dishes. These are the type of Vinho Verde white wines that we need more of in the U.S. 

The 2021 Terres de Real Alvarinho (6.5 Euros), produced from Alvarinho grapes from the famed Moncão e Melgaço subregion, has a 12.5% ABV. It is crisp and intense, with strong citrus and tropical fruit flavors and a mineral backbone. Well balanced, with a lengthy, pleasing finish, this is another excellent wine from the Vinho Verde region. Bring on the seafood!

The 2021 Sapateiro Alvarinho & Avesso, with a 13% ABV, is a bright and crisp wine, with a complex melange of flavors including citrus, stone fruit and some tropical notes. There is a briny touch, a lengthy finish, and each sip is pure deliciousness. This is a good wine to slowly sip, savoring the various flavors that tantalize your palate. 

The 2022 Casa Santa Eulalia Plainas Tinto Vinhão (5 Euros), with a 12% ABV, is a Red Vinho Verde. With a very dark purple color, the wine presented with delicious and juicy red and black fruit flavors and a hint of spice. Good acidity, mild tannins and a pleasing finish. A nice burger or pizza wine, which would be sure to please most wine lovers.

If you visit Ponte de Lima, and want to learn more about Vinho Verde wines, you should make a stop at the Centro de Interpretação e Promoção do Vinho Verde. It will probably take you no more than an hour to visit the museum and taste some wine.