Chinatown: A History of Henry Wong & Shanghai Printing (Part 17)

While recently walking around Boston's Chinatown, I stopped at 16 Oxford Street, pictured above, which is the former site of the Shanghai Printing Company. This was once the only Chinese printing plant in New England, catering to the various Chinese laundries and restaurants. 

There's a Historical Marker at this address, showing a photo of the former owner, Henry Wong, standing at a wall of thousands of Chinese characters for his printing press.  

Henry Wong, also known as Henry Leung and Henry You Min Wong, was born in Canton, China around 1912-1913. Around 1928, when he was 15 years old, he traveled from China to California, and a year later, in 1929, he moved to Boston, where he had relatives in the area. Initially, Henry went to work at an uncle's laundry in Concord, New Hampshire, but he didn't like the work. So, Henry moved back to Boston, where he worked at his cousin's noodle factory, the Hop Yuen Noodle Company at 14 Oxford Street.   

His cousin also owned a printing press, a rarity in Chinatown, and Henry learned how to operate it. It seems that he finally found work which appealed to him, much more than laundry or noodles. Thus, when his cousin returned to China, Henry purchased the printing press and decided to start his own business. Although some sources he started his business when he was 18 years old, other sources state that Henry started the Shanghai Printing Company in 1932, when he was 20 or 21 years old. It's possible that when Henry was 18, he simply continued his cousin's business, under the same name, and then started Shanghai Printing 2-3 years later. 

Seventeen years later, in 1949, was maybe the first newspaper mention of Henry and his printing company. By this point, Henry was married, to Katherine Chin, and had two children, Eric (age 60 and Jeffrey (age 5). The Boston Globe, May 29, 1949, ran a brief article about Henry, with five photos, including the photo that is depicted on the Historical Marker. The article mentioned that Henry's printing plant owns 20,000 Chinese characters, which were manufactured in Shanghai! Henry owns an ancient dictionary he uses to determine the proper characters for almost any word, but he's expected to know the characters for about 8500 common words. The characters above spell out "Boston Globe." It was also noted that the Chinese want color printing in every shade possible so Henry must mix his own inks. 

The Boston Traveler, April 18, 1956, stated that the Shanghai Printing Company was the only Chinese printing press in New England, and printed tickets for every Chinese laundry in New England. It was also said that his type case has 10,000 Chinese characters, half the number than which was previously mentioned. Henry was helped by an assistant, Martin Murray, and while Henry set the type, Martin would run the presses. Personally, Henry was said to be 42 years old and now had 5 children, including three daughters, Stephanie, Leslie, and Valerie. 

Consider the great difficulty of printing Chinese because of the vast amount of characters that are needed. English only has 26 letters, so you don't have to search too hard to find the letters you need. But with Chinese, you need to look through thousands of characters, a lengthier and more laborious process. And one man, Henry, did all of that work, of locating the proper characters among all of those possibilities. 

Curiously, the Boston Traveler, August 10, 1956, had some contrary information, stating that Shanghai Printing was located at 14 Oxford Street, not #16, and that the shop only had 6000 Chinese characters, 4,000 less than their previous article detailed. The article also stated: “This firm is equipped to prepare booklets, menus, laundry checks and other job printing work in either Chinese of English.”  

A more detailed article was presented in the Boston Globe, January 29, 1960. It was mentioned that Henry's business was relatively small, and located one flight down at 16 Oxford Street. Henry and his assistant, Martin Murray, performed printing jobs, using three flat-bed presses, in both Chinese and English. Henry possessed about 16,000 Chinese characters, in a big type rack, and regularly uses about 4,000. “Each character is a word, though not composed of alphabetical elements.” The article also mentioned the dictionary he used. “If the type calls for a word with which Henry is not thoroughly familiar, he can refer to the book. It is a sort of catalogue which defines the required character, and discloses its number. Henry can then go to the rack and instantly find it.”

Henry only carried 14 and 18 point type sizes, and the characters come from China. Henry purchased the characters by the pound, which generally cost about $1.00. A pound of 18 point type had about 35 characters while 14 point type had about 50. Most of their print work included restaurant, laundry checks, and labels. And the most popular color for their printing jobs was red. 

It was briefly mentioned in the Boston Sunday Herald, July 18, 1965, that “All the laundry tickets for Chinese laundries in New England are printed at the Shanghai Printing Co. on Oxford St." 

The Sampan, January 1983, reported that, on January 6, there was a powerful explosion that destroyed the Chinese Consolidated Benevolent Association’s four-story brick and wood building at 14 Oxford Street. The storefront of Shanghai Printing, at 16 Oxford Street, suffered heavy damages. The Athol Daily News, January 6, 1983, reported that 14 Oxford Street also had three apartments, two of which were vacant. Some witnesses reported a smell of gas prior to the explosion. 

The Boston Globe, January 7, 1983, provided more details of the explosion. Four people were injured, including one man, a 59 year old restaurant worker, who fell four stories but only sustained some cuts on his feet. A natural gas explosion is thought to have been the cause. 

Ownership handed down in the family. The Boston Sunday Herald, August 18, 1991, noted that Shanghai Printing was now run by Henry's on, Jerry Wong. However, twenty years later, in 2011, Jeffrey shut down Shanghai Printing, in large part as he was unable to compete with the new computer printing companies. 

Unfortunately, the Boston Globe, March 21, 1992, reported that Henry You Min Wong had died on Friday, March 20, leaving behind his wife Katherine Chin, his five children including Eric Wong, Jefferey Wong, Stephanie Fan, Leslie Chan, and Valerie Wong, as well as 10 grandchildren. The Boston Globe, March 22, 1992, added that Henry, age 80, had died of heart failure. It was also noted that he established Shanghai Printing in 1932. In addition, he founded the Chinese Progressive Association in 1977, and was the honorary president since 1982. 

Chinese Progressive Association "...is a grassroots community organization working for full equality and empowerment of the Chinese community in the Greater Boston area and beyond. CPA was founded in 1977 out of a series of community organizing campaigns around issues such as Chinese parents’ input into the Boston school desegregation process and organizing for community control over land development in Chinatown. Our membership is made up predominantly of Chinese immigrants and the Chinese-speaking; most are workers in low wage industries, working families, or low-income elderly. CPA has no single issue focus because we believe that people have many concerns–jobs, education, freedom from discrimination, a clean and safe living environment. We have seen that once people achieve their rights in one aspect of their lives, they will be more likely to actively participate in solving other community problems."  

Henry stated, “The aim of the Chinese Progressive Association, as I see it, is to serve the community, and it also stands for the liberation of thought … I am happy to be able to do my share in the fight for racial equality. Whether we succeed or not, everybody must do what you can!” 

And that fight continues! 

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A History of Boston's Chinatown and Its Restaurants: 

Check out Part 1, covering the 18th & 19th centuries
Check out Part 2, covering the years 1901-1920
Check out Part 3, covering the 1920s.

Check out Part 4, covering 1930-1959

Check out Part 5, covering the 1960s
Check out Part 6, the tale of Ruby Foo

Check out Part 7, the tale of Anita Chue
Check out Part 8, the tale of Mary Yick
Check out Part 9, a Deeper Look into Two Restaurants

Check out Part 10: Sam Wah Kee: From Chinatown's Most Wealthy Merchant to Wanted Fugitive

Check out Part 11: An Early History of Chinese Herbalists in Boston

Check out Part 12: Dr. Ensang Chang: Boston's First Chinese Licensed Physician 

Check out Part 13: A Historic Look at Chinese New Year in Boston (1870-1890)

Check out Part 14: An Early History of Christmas in Chinatown

Check out Part 15: Chinatown, Little Syria & Its Restaurants

Check out Part 16: The Chinese Shoe Makers of North Adams

Check out Part 18: A History of Boston's Chinatown and Its Restaurants: 1970-1974

Check out Part 19: A History of Boston's Chinatown and Its Restaurants: 1975-1979

And also see my Compilation Post, with links to my additional articles about Chinese restaurants, outside Boston and in Connecticut, as well as a number of related matters.

Rant: "Spectacular" Restaurants? We Don't Need Them

Often, when people dine out, they are not seeking the "spectacular." That is generally saved for special occasions. Instead, they will patronize restaurants which may sometimes receive negative reviews, restaurants where the food may not be consistent from visit to visit. Why would they do so?

I recently came upon a newspaper passage which seems to provide the explanation. The Boston Globe, May 19, 1972, had a review of a popular Chinatown restaurant. The review briefly noted that, “The service generally is merely standard.” It then addressed the reason for its popularity: "Here Bostonians find—the same menu serves for both lunch and dinner—the egg rolls, pork strips, chop suey, fried rice, sweet and sour dishes they think of first when they think of Chinese food. Spectacular? Not often. But comfortable, familiar, reasonable and good.”

Basic service and basic food. But it was comfort food, food they knew, which was adequately tasty, even if it wasn't exceptional. They knew when they dined there, the type of experience they would find. They weren't seeking the "best" Chinese food, but rather a meal that would satisfy them on an emotional or psychological level.    

I've seen numerous online reviews of local Chinese restaurants, some which dealt with inconsistent restaurants, and people still cherished those restaurants, especially as they were seen as comfortable and familiar. The inconsistency was simply accepted, and there would just be hopes that their next visit would be better. Other reviewers have raved about certain restaurants, which others have rated more mediocre, and such raves seem more likely because those places may be more comfortable and familiar to the ravers. 

This doesn't apply to just Chinese restaurants, but to all restaurants in general. Some restaurants, such as from Italian to Mexican, are popular but not because their cuisine is especially excellent, but because they offer comfort food, which is familiar and reasonably good. They cater more to certain emotional needs, and that is what is important to those diners.

If you follow the recommendations and reviews of these people, you might not be satisfied. It will depend on what you seek, whether you want excellent cuisine, or more familiar, comfort food, which might be inconsistent. What do you seek?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) To celebrate the start of fall, Tonno Wakefield and Tonno Gloucester are hosting a fall Harvest Dinner featuring Piedmont wines from Beni di Batasiolo with a six-course seasonal pairing menu. The dinner will be held at Tonno Gloucester on September 23, at 6pm, and Tonno Wakefield on September 25, at 6:30pm.

The six-course menu offerings include:
Reception: Breadsticks with extra virgin olive oil; paired with 2023 Batasiolo Gavi
First Course: Pumpkin soup, parmesan croutons, and fried sage; paired with 2021 Batasiolo Barbera d’Alba
Second Course: Porcini Risotto topped with shaved black truffle; paired with 2020 Batasiolo Langhe Nebbiolo
Third Course: Chestnut Ravioli with pulled duck, brown butter and marscapone; paired with 2020 Batasiolo Barolo
Fourth Course: “Brasato Di Barolo” Braised Beef, Barolo wine, cipollini onions, carrots, celery, and gorgonzola mashed potatoes; paired with 2013 Batasiolo Barolo Bofani
Dessert: Gianduja Budino

To reserve a spot for dinner, please visit Tonno Gloucester’s Resy and Tonno Wakefield’s Resy. Tickets are $150 per person and include tax and gratuity.

2) Join InterContinental Boston’s Matria for the Two Chefs. Two Cities. One Table, a four-course dining experience curated by InterContinental Boston’s Chef De Cuisine, Jeffrey Bianchi, and InterContinental Seattle’s Chef, Eden Guillermo. This special dinner will feature a menu highlighting fresh ingredients from Italy’s Piedmont region, complemented by local inspirations and flavors from both Boston and Seattle.

The curated menu begins with Dungeness Crab & Cream Croquette, paired with Washington apples, fennel, and tomato coulis. The second-course presents Beet Cured Salmon Gravlax, served with shaved baby carrots, citrus purée, crisp kale, and avocado mousse. The main course, savor a Bone-In Black Truffle Short Rib with smoked butternut squash purée, broccolini, and shaved black-truffles. To finish the evening on a sweet note, indulge in Fall Apple Focaccia Bread Pudding, made with caramelized apple, ricotta, vanilla gelato, and caramel sauce.

Seatings are from Thursday, October 9 - Saturday, October 11, from 5pm-9:30pm. 

Cost: $99 per guest | +$60 optional 4-wine pairing | +$40 optional non-alcoholic 4-wine pairing (excludes tax and gratuity).
Reservations: Space is limited, to reserve a seat, visit Resy.

2020 Zuccardi Poligonos Paraje Altamira Malbec: A Delicious Mountain Wine

A Malbec with a sense of place, from grapes in mountain vineyards, and aged in concrete. And produced by a winery which is one of my favorites in Argentina. 

Bodega Zuccardi Valle De Uco extends back over 60 years in Argentina, when, in 1963, Alberto “Tito” Zuccardi planted his family's first vineyard. He was an engineer and had developed a new irrigation system, to help combat some of the desert conditions in the Mendoza region. A passion for viticulture then enveloped him, and the project grew and grew. It become a family business, and his son,  José Alberto took over in 1985. And then, in 1999, Jose's son, Sebastián, also got involved in the family business. 

Their vineyards are primarily in the mountainous region of the Uco Valley, and their Polígonos brand is considered to be "the expression of those villages of the Valley." And more specifically, Paraje Altamira is located on the plain south of the source of the Tunuyán River, at an altitude of 1050-1150 meters. It has a cool temperate climate, and its soils possess many stones and granite gravel, covered with calcareous material.

The 2020 Zuccardi Poligonos Paraje Altamira Malbec ($30-$35) is produced from 100% Malbec, and was fermented with native yeasts in concrete vessels. It was then aged in concrete (although the length of time isn't provided), and possesses a 14% ABV. The wine, which is fresh and bright, possesses a rich purple color, and a nose of black fruits and hints of herbs. On the palate, the fruit dominates, with flavors of ripe plum, black cherry and blueberry, but is supported by mineral notes (a stony element) and a subtle herbal accent. It's medium-bodied, with restrained tannins and good acidity. The finish is long and satisfying, and this is an excellent wine with a hearty meal. I drank the wine with some steak tips, and it was a delightful pairing. 

A complex and intriguing wine, the lack of oak helps you better understand the terroir, how the Malbec of his particular region differs from Malbec from other areas. Those who already enjoy Malbec will be thrilled by this wine, and others, who may not know much about Malbec, will also be thrilled by its taste. Highly recommended.   

Rant: Don't Stop Drinking Rosé!

As Labor Day has passed, it's a signal to many of the end of summer. As such, you'll stop seeing media advertisements for Rosé wine. Wine distributors will generally stop recommending Rosé to their accounts. Many wine shops will stop carrying Rosé until the springtime. This is all part and parcel of the myth that Rosé is a "summer wine." 

The reality is that Rosé season doesn't exist! It's a pervasive myth, a wrongful stereotype, that spring and summer herald Rosé season. The simple fact is that Rosé is appropriate year-round, even in the winter. Many of those perpetuating the myth of Rosé season know better, but they choose to ignore the truth. Stop deluding the public and embrace the reality of Rosé every month of the year. 

Sure, a chilled Rosé can taste wonderful on a hot, summer day, but it can equally satisfy when you are at home during a snow storm. If you can drink white wine in the fall and winter, there's absolutely no reason you cannot drink Rosé too. It's extremely food friendly, and there is absolutely no reason why you shouldn't enjoy it with the same roast chicken or seafood dish you serve in the summer or winter. Rosé is also an excellent choice for Thanksgiving. 

The situation has slowly improved during the last several years but significant change is still needed. There are some wine stores which stock Rosé throughout the year and if your local shop doesn't, then you should recommend that they stock some. And if they don't bring in some Rosé, then seek elsewhere for this wine. 

Share some Rosé this fall and winter with your friends, showing them the potential of this delicious wine. Don't ask if they want Rosé but just pour them a glass. Once they taste the wine, they'll probably come to the realization of what they have been missing.

We also need more wine writers to pen Rosé articles during the fall and winter, to persuade consumers that this pink wine is appropriate during every season, and not just during the summer. Raising consumer awareness is vital to spreading a passion for Rosé year round. We need to correct their vinous myth.

I drink Rosé wine year round and strongly encourage my readers to do so as well.