New England Dessert Showcase: Top 3 Finds

Over the weekend, I ate dessert for breakfast. Cookies, whoopie pies, candy, chocolates, ice cream, brownies and much more. Why would I do that?

Because I attended the 4th Annual New England Dessert Showcase, hosted by The Anthem Group, a Boston-based marketing and event agency. There were over 50 local exhibitors offering a smorgasbord of desserts and the media hour started at 10am. So, when I should have been dining on bacon and eggs, I ended up indulging my sweet tooth instead.

I have decided to list my top 3 finds at the Dessert Showcase, those items which most appealed to my taste and which were new to me. These are all items which you should seek out.

McCrea's
I do have a weakness for caramel, but that also makes me picky about it as well. McCrea's, located in Hyde Park, was founded in 2009, the brainchild of Jason McCrea who has a background in chemistry. He desired to create a top notch caramel and formed a team to help him produce it. The caramels are slow-cooked, small batches created in an old fashioned style. They even purchased a special wrapping machine, from 1910, which was retooled so they could wrap their caramels in a more traditional fashion.

They currently produce five different flavors, including Black Lava Sea Salt, Dark Roasted Mocha, Mad Vanilla, Tapped Maple and Ginger Fusion. By the end of the year, they will likely add about 11 additional flavors, including some created with spirits such as Scotch. They will also create some seasonal caramels, maybe one with Champagne too. They are available in about 60 stores throughout Maine and Massachusetts, including a few Roche Bros. and Whole Foods.

The Black Lava Sea Salt was an excellent, sweet chewy caramel with a light hint of saltiness and tiny bits of crunch from the salt. I am looking forward to their new flavors, especially those with alcohol.

Kind Healthy Snacks
These are advertised as "healthy" snacks and kind of look like granola bars so you might pass them by without much of a thought. Yet you should stop and give them a try. KIND was established in 2003 by Daniel Lubetzky. "KIND was founded on the principle of holistic kindness, and we pride ourselves on creating new paths that avoid false compromises. Instead of "Or" we say "And". We choose healthy and tasty, convenient and wholesome, economically sustainable and socially impactful."

Kind Healthy Snacks are all natural whole nut & fruit bars, which emphasize natural protein, fiber and 5 or less grams of sugar. These are not really low calorie bars though they may be healthy in a number of other ways. They have plenty of different flavors, including a number with chocolate. Though I enjoyed the Dark Chocolate, Nuts & Sea Salt and Madagascar Vanilla Almond bars, my favorite was the Almond & Coconut.

The Almond & Coconut bar contains almonds, dried coconut, honey, non-GMO glucose, puffed rice, chicory fiber, and soy lecithin. Nutritional is has 210 Calories, 13 grams of Total Fat, 19 grams of Total Carbohydrates, 10 grams of Sugar and 4 grams of Protein. But what was most important to me was its taste. Plenty of delicious coconut flavor, a mild sweetness, nutty accents and a nice chewy texture. It didn't taste healthy and is going to please any dessert lover.

Chocolate Therapy
Chocolates with a medical theme. David and Pam Griffin, husband and wife, decided to start a chocolate business together, and decided to use many ingredients which are known to possess various therapeutic effects. Chocolate itself has long been studied for its own therapeutic effects. They now produce over 30 varieties of chocolates and candies, with a store in Dedham and a second store opening soon in Framingham.

Their Sea Salt Caramel is made with Tahitian vanilla, sea salt, and dark chocolate and was an excellent blend of those flavors, clean, sweet flavors. The Gen Mai Cha is made with green tea, brown rice, and white chocolate, all with a dark chocolate cover. It had a strong green tea flavor which I very much enjoyed. Finally, the Spicy is made with dark chocolate and hot spice. Upfront, all you taste is the rich chocolate but once the chocolate is gone, there is an intense, spicy kick on the finish. All very well done chocolates.

Rant: Restaurant Reviews Ignoring Drinks?

What do you expect from a restaurant review? To me, there are four primary aspects of a restaurant review, references to the food, drink, price and service. Writers should properly address those four key elements in their reviews. There are a number of secondary aspects as well that can be considered such as the restaurant's size, decor, ambiance, parking availability, etc. It seems though that one of the primary elements gets little, if any, attention, by a number of reviewers, from bloggers to print media. Why are these reviewers largely ignoring restaurant's drink programs?

Many restaurants invest much time and effort into developing their wine lists and bar programs. They may bring in experts, sommeliers, mixologists and more, to help design those programs. They may be rightfully proud about their accomplishments, and it becomes a significant reason why diners will patronize their establishment. When considering where to dine, I often consider the drinks menu and I know plenty of others who do the very same. When a restaurant has a particularly interesting drinks list, that should be emphasized in a restaurant review. Unfortunately, that doesn't happen as much as it should.

Let me provide one glaring example. I was recently perusing Devra First's review of Yakitori Zai in the Boston Globe and was dismayed by her meager coverage of the drinks offered at the restaurant. There was a single sentence in her lengthy review about the alcohol program, which I think is a failure to properly address such a key element. She stated that "Wine is available..." yet says nothing about how many wines, what type of wines, the prices of those wines, etc.

She continues with "...a sake list offers a good mix of styles and flavors but yakitori may go best with beer." In this, she first fails to mention (and may be unaware) that sake is a traditional Japanese pairing with yakitori, so it would probably make a better pairing than beer. But she also says nothing about pricing, the specific types and and brands of sake and beer available, etc. If you look at the restaurant's online menu, you will see they only list 4 beer options and 10 sake options. So beer doesn't seem too important to them with such a very limited selection. I also feel the sake selection needs improvement, especially that it should include some kimoto/yamahai styles which should pair even better with yakitori.

After reading that review, I looked at Devra's prior eight restaurant reviews, which span July and August, and all of those reviews were available for free without having a subscription to the Globe. Though this is only a small sample, I think it is representative and was disturbed that her reviews showed a pattern of providing minimal information, if any, about the wine and alcohol programs of the restaurants she reviews. Why is this the case?

Of those eight reviews, two failed to mention the drinks at all. 25% of her reviews ignoring drinks completely? That seems wrong. Of the others, the drinks coverage was only 1-3 sentences, which I consider inadequate to properly cover this important element. More information seems to provided about the decor than the drinks. Only one of the reviews mentioned alcohol prices, saying that a wine list is "respectfully priced," whatever that actually means. In all those reviews, a single wine was mentioned by name and only one review specifically mentioned any beers by name. Overall, I would consider this inadequate coverage of an important element of these restaurants.

In addition, prior to my recent visit to the Painted Burro in Somerville, I checked online for other reviews and saw Devra's review from May. That review merely mentions that the restaurant has tequila, but says nothing else about it or the rest of their bar program. That is a major omission as I later learned the restaurant has a huge tequila and mezcal list, with a number of tasting flight options and plenty of cocktails. In addition, it has a large beer list, with many options from Mexico, and a small wine list. Why didn't Devra say anything about this extensive bar program? After visiting the restaurant myself, I understood how important this bar program is to the restaurant so omitting reference to it in a restaurant review is a significant failure.

Devra is certainly not the only offender and I am using her only as an example. Restaurant reviews should cover all of the major elements of a restaurant, and that includes their drinks program. Failure to do so leads to an incomplete and failed review. You do a disservice to a restaurant by ignoring something of which they might have devoted much energy and attention. You do a disservice to your readers who desire that information. How many consumers decide on a restaurant based on its decor? I am confident that number is but a tiny percentage of the number of consumers who decide based on their drinks program.

Restaurant reviewers, let's see more detailed discussions of drinks in your reviews. If you don't know much about wine, beer and spirits, why not gain a basic education so you can better address your readers about all of the major elements of a restaurant.

Bistro 5: Heirloom Tomato & Basil Challenge

It was almost as if I stumbled into an episode of Iron Chef where the secret ingredient was heirloom tomatoes. But the stakes were raised in this challenge by the addition of a second secret ingredient, basil. Could Chef Vittorio Ettore of Bistro 5 create five amazing courses using these two secret ingredients?

Vittorio was fortunate that he didn't have only one hour to prepare his dishes, but it is a challenge nonetheless. How do you showcase the tomato in five different yet interesting and delicious ways? It would be simple to make a red sauce but then that would not be a challenge. Vittorio also wanted the dishes to be visually appealing and to engage the diners, to make them feel as if they had just come in from the garden. In my eyes, he clearly won this Iron Chef-like challenge.

All this month, Chef Vittorio presents a special Heirloom Tomato & Basil Tasting Menu. You can select Three Courses for $45 (with optional wine pairing for $20) or Five Courses for $65 (with optional wine pairing for $25). Each course uses a different heirloom tomato and a different basil, with most of the basil picked from Vittorio's own gardens. I was invited as a media guest to try out the special tasting menu and it was a wondrous dinner.

I have long been a fan of Chef Vittorio and Bistro 5, and have dined there during previous Heirloom Tomato events. In 2010, Bistro 5 was awarded my Favorite Suburban Restaurant, its third consecutive year in that position. I also interviewed Chef Vittorio for my Culinary Creativity series. So I had high expectations for this dinner, and I was not disappointed in the least.

Your dinner begins with a basket of focaccia bread and chickpea puree with olive oil. The bread is fresh, soft and has a nice blend of salt and herbs atop it. The puree and oil is an excellent accompaniment and you might find yourself finishing off the entire basket.

The first course was Gazpacho, using a Mortgage Lifter tomato and Lemon Basil, though this was far from an ordinary gazpacho. The Mortgage Lifter was developed in the 1940s and its creator, after selling a bunch of the plants and then paying off his mortgage, named it "Mortgage Lifter." This was a dish of layers, with the gazpacho at the very bottom. It was then topped with Scallop Ceviche, which was then topped with Cucumber-Jalapeno Sorbet and a leaf of Lemon Basil. Finally, the Gazpacho Cloud was poured into the dish.

A great presentation, this dish also had plenty of compelling layers of flavor and textures. The Cloud seemed creamy and rich yet there was no dairy added to it at all. The thin scallop slices were silky smooth while the chopped veggies added a nice crunch. The heat of the jalapeno was muted to some degree by the chill of the sorbet. What a fantastic way to begin the dinner, and it was enhanced by a glass of the Villa Sandi Prosecco Brut which was light and crisp with pleasant fruit flavors and a hint of sweetness.

For course two, we had the Potted Tomato “Panzanella,” using the Cosmonaut Volkov Tomato and Lime Basil. This tomato, though of Ukranian origin, was named by a former Russian space engineer after Vladislav Volkov, who died while returning home from a space station. This is another very cool presentation, with a Mozzarella Balloon and a Panko and Black Olive “Soil" in the pot. The balloon contained a delectable, creamy tomato mousse while there was more tomato and mozzarella below the crunchy and earthy "soil."

With this dish, Chef Vittorio also gave us leaves from a tomato plant, to run between our fingers and smell. He wants his diners to gain a sense of the garden, to imagine themselves there. Far too often we get removed from the source of our food and that is a mistake. We should make that connection, to better comprehend exactly what we are eating, to better respect the farmers producing our food. Kudos to Chef Vittorio for taking a positive step in that direction.

With this dish, we sipped a glass of the 2011 Cantina Santa Maria La Palma Vermentino Aragosta from Sardegna. I found this wine to be intriguing, with an almost smoky taste, with nice mineral notes and some subdued green apples flavors.

Next up was the Heirloom Tomato Risotto with Valencia Tomato & Opal Basil, and topped with Goat Cheese and Prosciutto Dust. The origin of this tomato's name is unknown, though it might derive from its orange color and smooth, round shape like that could resemble a Valencia orange. The tomato gave a more orange color to the risotto, which was a superb dish. The rice was cooked perfectly, just firm enough, and the creamy sauce was packed with rich, tomato flavor. The goat cheese added another layer of silky creaminess and each bite I had of the risotto with goat cheese was pure bliss in my mouth. I could have easily devoured three more dishes of this risotto.

I might not have chosen a Malbec to pair with this dish, but the 2010 Ruta 22 Malbec, from Argentina, actually worked well. It was a milder Malbec, with pleasant but restrained spice notes, and appealing black fruit flavors. It did not overwhelm the risotto as I worried that it might.

Our next dish was the Rohan Duck with Smoked Speckled Roman Tomato & Thai Basil, accompanied by a Creme Brulee, Sweet and Sour Butternut Squash, and Pickled Ginger. The creme brulee stole this dish! What an incredible savory dish, with a creamy tomato base, topped by a slightly sweet crunch, and hints of smokiness. The tomatoes for the creme brulee are roasted, smoked, and then made into a puree to which is added cream, egg yolks, parmesan cheese and a little sugar. I don't remember that last time I tasted a savory creme brulee, but this example makes me wonder why more chefs aren't trying to create them. The duck was tender and flavorful, cooked perfectly, and the tiny cubes of squash had an interesting contrast of sweet and tart.

With the duck, we drank a a 2010 Gran Sasso Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, another good choice. A nice, easy drinking red that was not too tannic and had pleasant flavors of cherry, vanilla and raspberry which complemented the duck well.

Dessert was a mess! But intentionally. The dessert course was the Tomatina, a homage to the annual summer festival in the Valencian town of Buñol where everyone has a huge tomato fight. The people end up covered in tomato bits and I am sure cleaning up after this event is quite an endeavor. In the video above, Chef Vittorio prepares and explains the Tomatina tableside.

The Tomatina is made with Organic Peach Mousse & Cinnamon Basil, as well as Basil Yogurt Gelato,Vanilla Bean Crème Anglaise and Sweet Pistachio Pesto. He also uses a spun sugar tomato which actually resembles a glass container, and which can be a surprise when he tosses it into your bowl. Yes, it looks like a mess but it was delicious to eat, with a great blend of flavors which fill your mouth with an enticing melange. With the dessert, we enjoyed a glass of the 2010 Elio Perrone Bigaro Bachetto d'Aqui. A fine bubbly with great red fruit flavors and only a mild sweetness, nicely balanced by its acidity.

Our server, Jodi, did a great job, and she was attentive and personable. Overall, this was a fantastic dinner, an excellent showcase of the culinary creativity of Chef Vittorio. He truly made the tomato the star of each dish, but made sure as well that each dish was complemented by other flavors and textures. During this month, the dishes might change, dependent on the availability of certain ingredients and the inspiration of the chef, but I am sure you will greatly enjoy whatever he prepares. Rush down to the Heirloom Tomato & Basil festival and experience an Iron Chef moment.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently. **********************************************************
1)  Continuing the monthly A Taste of Italy tour, A Tavola has unveiled the September region: Tuscany. From September 5-29, 5pm-10pm, Chef Vittorio Ettore will take guests on an educational and culinary tour through this region of Italy which also happens to be his hometown. He will explain his techniques and inspirations throughout the meal, giving his guests not just a taste of Tuscany, but also a complete culinary experience of his past.

"Vittorio was born in Tuscany to an Italian father and Venezuelan mother, and for the beginning of his life he grew up in Tuscany on a modest sized yet sustainable farm where rabbits, goats, chickens, and pigs grazed the land alongside small crops of items like fava beans, peas, tomatoes, herbs, peaches, apples, and figs. It was the way that his father had been raised, s3 he was eager to instill this same tradition in Vittorio and his siblings. The family was far ahead of their time, or perhaps we are just returning to basics now, in terms of farm raised and preservation. For instance, they fed their baby pig and raised him until September and October when they would then kill the pig and make their own charceuterie of salumi, prosciutto, pancetta, and capicola. They also preserved their produce, such as tomatoes. This heavily inspired Vittorio’s cooking style, and A Tavola’s September menu showcases these roots while incorporating his local produce."

"Simplicity is central to the Tuscan cuisine, and this will be exemplified through Vittorio’s menu. He will bring guests back to square one and back to his roots, with classic, rustic Tuscan food. His upbringing of sustainable farming, preservation, and sourcing locally has heavily inspired the menu, which consists of:"

Gnudi
Lobster, Corn and Homemade Ricotta Dumpling with Wright-Locke Farm Heirloom Tomatoes
2010 Castello di Montauto, Vernaccia di San Gimignano Toscana
Anatra in Porchetta
Boneless Whole Roasted Duck with Prosciutto, Sage and Kimball Farm Peach “Mostarda”
2008 Tenuta di Castiglioni, Tuscan Blend
Ficattola
Fresh Baked Black Mission Figs, Pastry Crust and Zabaione Gelato
2005 Frescobaldi ‘Pomino’ Vin Santo

The pre fixe Tuscany menu is $45 per person, with optional wine pairing for an additional $20.
Reservations are welcome by calling 781-729-1040

2)  Chef/Owner Joe Cassinelli is introducing an extensive new section of Antipasti on the Pizzeria Posto dinner menu. Starting on Friday, September 7 guests can now enjoy a larger selection of antipasti, over 20 different choices. The new items are meant to encourage sharing and sampling for parties of any size that want to experience various dishes and flavors at a reasonable price ($3-$9).

Beloved classics, such as Nonna’s meatballs) and Lemon Arancini (one of my personal favorites), you will find new additions such as Fried Green Tomatoes, Polenta Fries, Lasagnette, and Grilled Octopus Salad. For those who are a bit more adventurous and want to push the boundaries of their taste buds, items like Beef Tongue Pastrami Bruschetta and Trippa all’Amatriciana are other options. And be sure to order the Rosemary Sea Salt Bread.

If you have not been to Pizzeria Posto yet, this is the perfect time to check it out. It receives my highest recommendation.

3) On Saturday, September 22, Seaport Hotel celebrates the start of the autumn season with a one day only Pig Roast and special BBQ menu. Chef Robert Tobin will be roasting a pig on TAMO Terrace and serving up a menu full of fall favorites.

Menu items include:
Pork Sandwich
“Roll your own” Taco Bento Box
Braised Pork Cheeks
Roasted Pork Platter

All menu items will include potato salad, cole slaw and an array of sauces (including chimichurri, KC style BBQ, Carolina Style BBQ, sweet chili, spicy plum, buffalo and mole).

TAMO bar and Terrace will serve lunch and dinner while Aura restaurant will serve dinner only.

4) Amidst a week dedicated to fashion The Beehive, located in Boston’s South End, flips the script as they host Undressed: Fashion Burlesque at 8pm on Wednesday, October 3, in partnership with Boston Fashion Week and Moët & Chandon.

As part of Boston Fashion Week’s Fashion Trail, The Beehive and Boston Fashion Week invite guests to take a break from watching clothes on the runway, and instead watch them being taken off at this sultry burlesque performance. From 8pm-12am, one of New York City’s busiest burlesque performers Calamity Chang, also known as “The Asian Sexsation,” will be joined by the tango and flamenco inspired Medianoche and quintessential pin-up queen Bettina May for “Undressed” a mid-week fashion break which will prove that even during fashion week, you don’t have to be dressed to impress.

While the girls will take the stage at 8pm, guests are encouraged to make it “dinner and a show” as Executive Chef Rebecca Newell serves her eclectic fare from The Beehive’s menu from 5pm-12am. All evening show-goers can sip on bubbly from sponsor Moët & Chandon, and toast to fashion week with a special Moët & Chandon cocktail.

No cover charge, cash bar. To make reservations for dinner and a show, please call (617) 423-0069

Moxy: Tapas, Local & New England

It is an intriguing concept: Spanish-inspired tapas, local ingredients and a New England flair. But how does that concept fare in its execution? Does it mesh well or is it a disaster of discordant elements? The answer depends greatly on the culinary skills of the chef and at a new restaurant in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, Chef Matt Louis has created a winning combination.

On May 4, Chef Matt Louis and restaurateur Jay McSharry opened Moxy in downtown Portsmouth. The restaurant, with a casual and fun ambiance, seats over 90 people, including 12 at their bar and 14 at a communal table. It also has an open kitchen where you can watch them prepare your dishes. There is plenty of parking nearby and the downtown is a great place to walk around before or after dinner, to check out the nearby shops. Last week, I attended a media dinner at Moxy and actually drove up to Portsmouth early so I could wander around and check out the downtown.

Chef Louis, pictured above, has an impressive culinary resume, having graduated from The Culinary Institute of America. He has worked under famed Chef Thomas Keller at Bouchon and The French Laundry, and also assisted in the opening of Per Se in New York City. He moved on to Wentworth by the Sea Hotel and Spa and later toured Europe, including staging at famed Noma in Copenhagen. He has also staged at Momofuku KO, Torrisi, and Eleven Madison. I think it is a sign of the growing culinary importance of Portsmouth that it attracts chefs of such a caliber.

As Chef Louis contemplated opening his own restaurant, he knew that he needed to begin with a concept, to give a solid foundation to the endeavor. He did not want to spend many months working at a restaurant trying to discover what it should be. Instead, he wanted the main idea to be there from the start, and then work at honing that concept over time. His desire was to create a small plates restaurant, serving tapas-like dishes, but with an homage to New England and a strong emphasis on local ingredients. This would be a challenge to his creativity, and hopefully something that would appeal to diners. It would also be more representative of the style of Chef David Chang rather than Chef Keller.

Sourcing locally is vitally important to Chef Louis and most of his ingredients are sourced from northern New England. Chef Louis also seeks items such as sustainable seafood and humanely raised, organic beef. He states: "Any good chef is going to use a good amount of local produce. But with Moxy I started digging really deep and making connections with farmers. Through this process I really became exposed to what is out there." The Winter Farmers Market in Dover, New Hampshire will be very important to him in the coming months.

On the walls behind the bar, there are wooden plaques (pictured above) that identify the local farmers and producers they use, which is a great way to promote these producers as well as be transparent about sourcing. As Chef Louis relies on local ingredients, replicating Spanish-style tapas becomes an exercise in creativity as a number of typical Spanish ingredients, such as Marcona almonds and chick peas, are not available. This also leads to most of the dishes having a unique story behind them, the interesting details of their origin.

I had a chance to talk with Chef Louis for a short time, and he is an unassuming chef, especially considering his impressive resume. He lacks any pretension and the casual ambiance of this restaurant reflects this aspect. It is clear that he is passionate about his restaurant, and that local sourcing and sustainability is important to him and it is not merely a marketing stunt. He is also obviously innovative and creative, and I think Moxy will only continue to get better with time. This is a chef and restaurant to watch in the future.

I also spent a fair amount of time speaking with James Woodhouse, the Bar Manager and a certified sommelier, who also was our server for much of the dinner. Most recently, James worked as the restaurant manager at No.9 Park. James was personable, attentive and passionate too, fine qualities for any restaurant employee. The restaurant has a full bar, with a craft cocktail program and numerous beers and wines. James has been very selective in the choices for their beverage program.

Many of the cocktails were inspired by pre-Prohibition drinks, and they often rely on local ingredients as well as fresh herbs and juices. Cocktails average about $8 and you will find plenty of interesting choices, including plenty you might not have heard of before. We began the evening with the Great Bay Martini, their signature house cocktail, which is made with Rain organic vodka, lavender simple syrup, and fresh lemon juice. It had a summery taste to it and was nicely balanced, without being overly sweet or too tart.

They even created a new cocktail for us that evening, a take on the La Perla which usually is made with Tequila, Fino Sherry and pear liqueur. Their version included Silver Tequila, an Oloroso rather than a Fino Sherry, and some Broadbent Malmsey Madeira. It had a unique taste and you could discern the different ingredients if you really paid attention. A bit of that tequila bite, with a certain nuttiness and a fuller mouth feel. A nice match for their Spanish style tapas.

They carry a list of about 20 beers, with a fair number of local beers from New Hampshire and Maine. Many of the beers are priced at $4-$7 though they have some higher end beers, in larger formats, that cost up to $19 per bottle. Beer lovers should find numerous brews of interest.

For wine lovers, you will find that their list has about 13 wines available by the glass ($7-$10) and about 45 by the bottle (averaging $30-$60). It has an American focus, though you will find a number of wines from all over the world, from Spain to New Zealand, from France to Austria. There are plenty of interesting options, from Austrian Gruner Veltliner to Carneros Roussanne, from Spanish Mencia to California Fiano. They even carry Sherry, Port and Madeira, all which makes me happy. In the future, they will host wine and beer dinners.

My only issue with their wine list is its lack of local wines, which runs counter to the general philosophy of the restaurant. The only local item currently on the wine list is the NV Farnum Hill Farmhouse Cider, made in New Hampshire, and they also have a Riesling from the Finger Lakes. But this is an issue of which they are aware and which they are attempting to remedy. James is engaged in research to find quality, local wines and I suspect they will add some to their list in the near future. So I am hopeful this issue will be resolved.

The food menu changes frequently, due to the availability of ingredients as well as the creation of new items, so that almost every other day there is some type of change to the menu. The menu is divided into three main sections, Regional Pinchos ($4-$6), American Bocadillos ($10-$12), and Modern American Tapas ($4-$16). There is plenty of diversity, from vegetarian dishes to meat and seafood, and the small plate concept is a compelling one. I love the ability to order a bunch of small dishes so I can try many different foods, and it is a fun, communal experience to share plates. It can make for an intimate date, or an enjoyable time with a group of family or friends.

Initially, as we waited for everyone in our party to arrive, we stood around, sipping Great Bay Martinis and nibbling on some passed pinchos. The Fried Clams ($5) with pickled peppers, cocktail onions, and Raye’s mustard alioli, were clean, crisp and tasty. The Grilled Peaches ($4) with melted terrene and caramelized spring onions, were juicy and fresh with a nice tang. But my favorite was the Apple Cider Lacquered Pork Belly ($5), with grilled Maine cherry tomatoes and marinated watermelon. Perfectly tender, buttery fat, and bursting with exquisite flavors. The perfect mouthful. Plus the tomatoes and watermelons were their own fine bites of fresh juiciness.

Once we sat down at the communal table, we received what seemed like an endless wave of tapas. Though they are small bites, they certainly can fill you up. We began with "Something To Snack On" ($4), pumpkin-sunflower seed granola bites with chili scented crispy kale. This is mean to be a rough substitute for Marcona almonds, a common bar snack in Spain. It had a nutty taste, with hints of saltiness, but also a bit of sweetness as well. I think it is a clever creation.

The Fried Wake Robin Tomatillos ($4) are accompanied by a grilled corn creme and remind me of a fried green tomato. The exterior coating is crunchy and light, hiding the juicy tomatillo inside, and those juices did not make the coating soggy at all. A delightful dish.

The Hasty Pudding "Frites" ($5) use corn ground in Maine and resembles polenta. They are accompanied by a molasses BBQ sauce and buttermilk dip. Once again, the fried coating was perfectly crunchy and clean, with a strong corn flavored interior. I enjoyed the BBQ sauce better than the buttermilk.

The Salt Cod Fritters ($5) come with yogurt marinated cucumbers and sunflower “tahini,” carrot salad. The cod is locally sourced, line caught, and nearly all of their seafood is local. They are concerned about seafood sustainability. Another winning dish, this fritter will match up well against salt cod fritters from most anywhere. Such a fine small bite.

The Swan Island Mussels ($6) came with blackeyed peas, Popper's sausages, grilled bread and a maple flavored broth. Though I liked the mussels, I was not crazy about the broth as it was too sweet, and I thought the maple flavor was overpowering.

One of my favorite dishes was the Beef Short Rib Marmalade ($5) with grilled bread, pickled onions, and Great Hill Bleu Cheese. The beef comes from a local co-op and they prepare it with five reductions of stock. It is not really a "marmalade," more just superb braised beef, tender and flavorful, and enhanced by the delectable tang of the cheese. I had a small glass of Ruby Port with this dish and it was an excellent pairing. Highly recommended.

Michele's Fried Egg Dish is a mix of potatoes, peppers and a local fried egg. This would be an excellent breakfast dish, and I loved the gooey yolk spreading across the rest of the food.

The Sausage, Peppers & Onions ($5) is an uncured pepperoni with sauteed spicy sweet peppers, spring onion and Raye’s whole grain mustard. The pepperoni, like some of the other meat served at the restaurant, is from Popper's Artisanal Meats, located in New Hampshire, which emphasizes hormone free, humanely raised, animals. This was a delicious pepperoni, spiced perfectly, and loaded with flavor. Another highly recommended dish.

The Roasted Monk Fish ($13) has a sunflower-dandelion “pesto,” tempura red onion, and grilled Maine cherry tomatoes. The fish was tender and the pesto was very intriguing, working well with the fish. The tempura onion added some nice texture to the dish.

The Roasted New Hampshire Beets & Greens ($8) come with herbed creme fraiche, pea tendrils, and crispy onions. Not my type of dish, but the others at the dinner seemed to very much enjoy it.

The Grilled New Hampshire Corn ($6) is prepared with Brookford cheddar, a tomato vinaigrette, and chili alioli. (My photo of this dish came out poorly). I am a huge fan of grilled corn and this version was a winner. All of the flavors meshed well together, and presented a different profile than other grilled corns you might have had at places like Toro. The corn was naturally sweet, and there was a nice acidic bite to it as well. Definitely order this dish.

The Johnny Cake Community ($14) was inspired by Chef David Chang's Bo Ssam, a roasted pork shoulder with lettuce wraps and condiments. Chef Louis prepared a brown-sugared pork shoulder with crispy onions, pickled cucumbers, a hot sauce and Moxy BBQ sauce. Rather than just lettuce wraps, he chose to add a New England flair, to use Johnny Cakes, cornmeal pancakes, but chose to make them thinner than what is traditional. I loved this idea and the tender pork was moist and flavorful, the thin pancake being a nice accompaniment. I really enjoyed their BBQ sauce too and give this dish my highest recommendation as well.

A similar dish is the Misty Knoll Farms Pan-Seared Chicken Thighs ($13) with creme fraiche, hot sauce, pickled ginger, cilantro, and lettuce wraps. The shredded chicken was amazing: moist, flavorful and with a delicious crispy skin. I enjoyed the hot sauce, which had a nice spicy kick but wasn't overpowering. Another highly recommended dish.

They have several dessert options (most about $8) and based on the two I tasted, I would come to Moxy just for dessert and drinks. The Fried Dough ($8) comes with chocolate sauce, maple caramel sauce, peach compote, and apple compote. As my regular readers know, I am not a fan of powdered sugar, but it was easy enough to shake most of it off the fried dough. The fried dough itself is thin and crispy, a fine platform for a mix of toppings. It wasn't greasy at all, and would have been good with a scoop of ice cream atop it too.

And then Whoopie Pie Sliders ($8)! I have often decried the current cupcake mania, wondering why other desserts, like whoopie pies, have not had their place in the spotlight. Accompanied by chocolate sauce, though these don't really need it, the whoopie pies were impressive. A moist chocolate cake with a soft, light, cream between the cakes. Though decadent, these whoopie pies seem light and are a perfect ending to the evening.

Service was excellent and I think the food is reasonably priced for its quality and quantity. The concept is compelling and well executed, and Chef Louis has created an exciting new restaurant in Portsmouth. Though only four months old, it has already found its groove and I suspect it will continue to improve over time. It is well worth the drive to Portsmouth, and would be perfect for a weekend excursion. I certainly plan on returning to sample more of their tapas and it receives my highest recommendation.