Rosa Mexicano: Delicioso Desayuno

Breakfast! I love breakfast and can even enjoy it for lunch or dinner. Eggs, waffles, pancakes, donuts, and so much more. It is a comforting meal, a fine way to start the day. In Mexico, breakfast is referred to as el desayuno, and it is supposed to be an important meal. Many business deals are said to be conducted over desayuno. It seems that the Boston area is seeing more and more restaurants serving Mexican breakfast dishes. And that is a good thing.

Recently, I was invited to a media preview of the new Desayuno Mexicano menu at Rosa Mexicano in the Seaport district. Rosa Mexicano is a chain of upscale Mexican restaurants which originated in New York City in 1984. It was founded by Josefina Howard and the name of the restaurant actually refers to a unique color, Mexican pink. The Boston location opened nearly a year ago but this was my first time dining at the spot. I hadn't heard much about the place but their breakfast menu intrigued me. The Desayuno menu includes eight entrees, priced $8.50-$12.50, and we got to sample all of the dishes.

The restaurant has an appealing decor, a modern feel but with some rustic elements, and I liked the look of the bar. During the summer, they have patio seating which nearly doubles their capacity.

There are a number of drink options on the breakfast menu, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic. You can order some Cafe de Olla, if you desire coffee, or try the Chocolate Caliente Mexicano, which you can order with churros. The hot chocolate has a mellow chocolate flavor with hints of almonds and has a balanced flavor which I enjoyed. The Chilled Horchata de Coco, made with pressed rice milk infused with coconut, is a milky drink with a pleasant coconut flavor enhanced with cinnamon notes. You can also try one of the
Agua Frescas ("fresh waters"), kind of an alternative to juice. You will find unique flavors like Hibiscus Flower or Beet-Lemon. My favorite was the Cucumber-Tomatillo, a clean, refreshing drink, lacking the sweetness of soda or some juices.

Though there are two cocktails listed on the breakfast menu, you could order other alcoholic drinks as well. They carry about fifty tequilas and a few mezcals, and their signature cocktail is the Frozen Pomegranate Margarita. Though pomegranate is not one of my favorite fruits, I liked the flavor of this margarita, which was not overly sweet. They have a wine list, but their guests overwhelming order cocktails and beers. We were told that they might sell one bottle of wine for every 3000 guests. The Horchata Especial is a cocktail of horchata, anejo tequila, coffee liquor, and topped with espresso. It has a nice coffee flavor with a milky mouthfeel. The Mezcal Bloody Maria was delicious, a spicy and smoky drink that will liven up your morning.

Chef Antonio Perez came out to discuss the kitchen and menu, describing some of the less common Mexican ingredients. They use a number of local ingredients, though some have to be sourced elsewhere as they are not available locally. Most everything in the kitchen is made from scratch though some sauces are allowed to remain around for two days as they taste best then. Nothing is kept for a third day, and will be discarded.

Their Tortillas are made in house though their breads and chips are purchased elsewhere. The breads tend to be dry and heavy, not light and fluffy like some other rolls. Not my preference, and something I would prefer to use for dunking in a sauce.

My favorite breakfast entree was the Desayuno Tamal ($11), a pan filled with grits, topped with chili poached eggs, fried Panela cheese and a chorizo crumble. The creamy grits paired so well with the spicy chorizo, and the fried cheese triangles were excellent. A hearty breakfast and several other people at the breakfast really loved this dish too. Highly recommended.

At first glance, I wasn't sure that I would like the Mexico City Chilaquiles ($12.50), a ham steak topped with scrambled eggs, corn tortillas and a creamy, smoky chile sauce. My concern was that the tortillas would be soggy and limp but I was pleasantly surprised when that turned out not to be the case. The tortillas still possessed much of their crispness, and the intriguing chile sauce was compelling. I would definitely recommend this dish.

The Torrejas de Miel Rellenas ($11.50) is cinnamon-Cascabel chili-crusted brioche bread filled with Marscapone cheese and topped with caramelized plantains. The pile of dark Marscapone atop the bread doesn't look appealing and I think they might want to rework that part of the dish. It might taste good, but presentation is important as well. I like the fact they did not cover the bread with a load of powdered sugar. Though child crusted, it is not overly spicy, and the cinnamon stands out.

The Nopales con Huevo ($9.50) are soft scrambled eggs atop a cactus paddle with fried pasilla chile and roasted peppers. It is served with molletes, a soft roll spread with refried black beans.

The Machacado con Huevo ($12) is a pan of scrambled eggs with dried shredded beef, jalapenos, tomatoes and onions, served with fresh tortillas.

The Tropical Fruit Bowl ($8.50), with low fat yogurt, is sprinkled with granola, piloncillo and chopped fresh dates.

Overall, Rosa Mexicano now provides a good breakfast option in the Seaport area. The prices are reasonable and the options are interesting. Sip a Bloody Maria, with a Cucumber-Tomatillo Agua Fresca chaser, and enjoy a Desayuno Tamal or Chilaquiles.

Authors, Alcohol & Accolades: Volume 7

"The sway of alcohol over mankind is unquestionably due to its power to stimulate the mystical faculties of human nature, usually crushed to earth by the cold facts and dry criticisms of the sober hour."
--William James

I am back with another volume in my new series, Authors, Alcohol & Accolades. Please check Volume 1 for links to all of the prior installments. Each installment showcases four of my favorite authors, and I have returned to highlight four more, and to delve into their drinks of choice. I have found this to provide a fascinating glimpse into the life of the writers I enjoy and hope you like the interviews as well. You can look forward to further volumes in this series too, and any authors who are interested in participating in future volumes can contact me.

The four authors in this volume all possess a gritty and intense vision, and three of them are bourbon fans as well. Is there a connection there?

Todd Robinson (Twitter: @BigDaddyThug)
Todd's debut novel, The Hard Bounce, was published this past December by Tyrus Books. Set in Boston, this gritty crime novel centers on two bouncers who are hired to locate a missing girl and get caught up in a much more intricate criminal plot. Reminiscent of a hard boiled detective story, this is a cool debut that will keep your interest from page to page. Quirky characters, a sense of humor and a local setting will also intrigue readers. I look forward to future tales involving these two bouncers. Todd is also the editor of Thuglit, a crime fiction magazine, which showcases plenty of gritty short stories.

"I'm a whiskey with beer-chaser guy. The beer depends on my mood. The whiskey depends on my wallet. Bourbon, preferably. I was once a Scotch-only man, but the span during which I was faithful to the Highlands was a particularly harsh period in my life, and as much as I enjoy the whiskey, the association is mean. Scotch is my mean drink. I've told people, if you see me drinking Scotch...ever... I'm in that dark place. Just walk away.

My "drankin'" combo (and yes, it is spelled d-r-a-n-k-i-n) go-to is a Makers Mark chased with Corona. If I'm wearing my fancy pants (and the bar is nicer than the ones I often frequent), my absolute favorites are Franziskaner Hefe-Weisse and Basil Hayden bourbon. The Franziskaner is golden/orange-hued, with a nice spice that is surprisingly light-bodied and refreshing for a wheat beer. Basil Hayden is the smoothest bourbon I've ever tasted, with a light spice, minimal bite, and a butterscotch finish.

Avoid MD 20/20 Kiwi-flavored fortified wine at all costs.

Just saying..."

John Everson (Twitter: @JohnEverson)
If you enjoy erotic horror, then you have to check out John's numerous novels and short stories. For example, Siren is a compelling horror story touching on the ancient Greek legend of the alluring Sirens. Know that a spurned Siren is even a greater peril than an angry Glenn Close in Fatal Attraction. For more intense erotic horror, you must read NightWhere, which is dark, twisted, erotic, gory, depraved, emotional.....and I loved it. With its extreme elements, it is certainly not a book for everyone but if you can handle it, you will be richly rewarded with a fascinating novel. It reminded me of the work of Clive Barker. Kudos to John for presenting such a shocking and compelling book.

"Back in high school…er, I mean college… I couldn’t stand beer. While my friends tilted back Little King Cream Ales and Miller Genuines, I kept my fingers wrapped firmly around a bottle of Canadian Whiskey. In my 20s, a friend introduced me to Samuel Smith’s Nut Brown Ale, and my whole outlook changed. I didn’t instantly love it, but it was different than anything I’d ever tasted, and I began exploring the world of amber and darker beers. That first Sam Smith’s ultimately launched a 20+ year infatuation with brown ales… usually English Brown Ales. I’ve gone through my Bass, Boddington’s and Wells Bombardier phases, but nothing has proven as consistently drinkable to me as Newcastle Brown Ale. I’ve found a few microbrews around North America that have beers to rival Newcastle… but none of them are bottled and shipped anyplace near Chicago. If you’re on the East Coast, look for Hook & Ladder Backdraft Brown, or if you’re near Vancouver, don’t miss Granville Island’s Nut Brown. If you are south, Abita Brewing’s Turbodog has a nice malty finish, but only if you get it on tap. It loses whatever it is I love about it when bottled. And Denver’s Pints Pub brews a great John Bull Brown Ale that, sadly, never gets beyond the pub’s four walls.

Lest you think that all this malt and hops ruined my appreciation for whiskey, fear not. Around the time I settled on Newcastle as my beer of choice, I also discovered wheated bourbons… while a pricey Pappy Van Winkle is perhaps the most perfect sipping bourbon ever, I find day-to-day while sitting at my computer writing, there is nothing quite as satisfying as a cold pint glass of Newcastle with a chaser shot of Makers Mark bourbon at its side."

James Tuck (Twitter: @JamesTuckwriter)
James, a professional tattoo artist, is also the author of the Deacon Chalk series, dark urban fantasy about an occult bounty hunter who has to deal with vampire, were-creatures and other deadly monsters. Deacon Chalk is a bad-ass protagonist and his adventures are intense, action-filled rides through a perilous and supernatural obstacle course. Your pulse will race throughout every Deacon Chalk tale. Start with Blood & Bullets and I am sure you will be hooked. The newest Deacon book, Blood & Magick, is due out on March 5.

"I'm a bourbon man. Given my choice I'll take a shot of bourbon with a water or sweet tea or apple juice chaser. I also love trying new bourbons. So far my favorite is the Wild Turkey Honey Bourbon but if I'm going straight, plain bourbon I'll take Buffalo Trace. I've also been experimenting with my own infusions so in about 6 weeks I'll get to taste my Apple Pie, Espresso, Blackberry, Honey Pear, and Pineapple Upside Down Cake recipes. Hell yes I'm excited about that.

I don't mind rum based drinks, especially in the summertime, they're usually fruity and refreshing while still being able to knock you on your ass. But my favorite mixed drink is a Red-Headed Slut. Jagermeister, Peach Schnapps, and Cranberry juice. It doesn't sound like it would be as delicious as it is but it is hands down the winner when I am out with friends and not drinking for effect. You can get it as a slammer shot or over ice if you are looking to sip it. It's a delight either way."

Jeff Salyards (Twitter: @JeffSalyards)
Jeff's debut novel is Scourge of the Betrayer, a dark military fantasy and the first in the Bloodsounder's Arc. Though it is fantasy, there seems to be a gritty reality to its depiction of its characters and the military. The mysteries within the tale unravel slowly and it draws you deeper and deeper into the story. There is a fierceness to the tale and once you finish it, you will be craving the sequel. Political intrigued, mysterious magics, intense combat, compelling characters, and more will attract readers.

“You don’t have to go home, but you can’t stay here. . . 

"There was a time that I drank to get drunk. Well, that was last week. But I mean drank *only* to get drunk. What is more excessive than excess? That’s how I drank. So taste wasn’t really a consideration and I wasn’t especially. . . discerning. Boones Farm, Night Train, Jeremiah Weed, a case of the Beast, Vick’s cold medicine, whatever. Being a big guy with a lot of bloodstream, and at the time, possessing a Herculean tolerance, it used to be the cheaper the better. Bargain bin at Piggly Wiggly? Sign me up! Brown bag? No shame in that--it’s recyclable!

"By now, my days of debauchery and unbridled hedonism (mostly) behind me, or at least (somewhat) less frequent, I am much choosier. In fact, I’m sort of a beer snob now. Which is ironic, since my early days of drinking mostly involved bottom shelf liquor and cocktails mixed in garbage cans. I’ve got particular fondness for Erdinger, Erdinger Dunkel, Franziskaner (not to be confused with Frankensteiner) Hefe-Weiss, most anything from Belgium, Fat Tire and plenty of other American micro brews.

"And I’ll always have a soft spot for a really well made Long Island Ice Tea. I’ve sampled them all over the place, and it’s hit or miss, with a whole lot of miss. It’s awfully tough to find one that is strong enough to be worth the price without tasting like cobra venom, or goes down smooth without being cloyingly sweet. And striking the balance of potent and tasty, even at presumably good bars, seems to be incredibly rare art form. I like art. Especially drinking it."

Rant: Are Vegetarians Dooming Our Environment?

Meat lovers are sometimes cast as environmental villains however maybe the situation is different. Maybe vegetarians and vegans pose a greater threat. It is a situation worthy of deeper examination.

Vegetarians and vegans often claim that their dietary lifestyle is better for the environment, that raising animals for meat creates far more greenhouse gases. This claim is accepted as a truism by many and few people question it. However, considering the vital importance of battling climate change, we need to seriously question all of our assumptions. Any significant mistakes that we make could be devastating. Asking questions about such widely held assumptions should be acceptable.

Based on some new evidence, it is possible that vegetarians and vegans could be dooming our environment more than meat eaters.

A new article published in The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition discussed a French study which tried to ascertain whether plant based diets were more environmentally friendly or not. The study confirmed that growing plants created less greenhouse gases than raising animals. However, that is only one part of a larger equation and is not determinative of the end result. When everything else is considered, a diet high in plants may actually lead to more greenhouse gases than a meat heavy diet.

How can that be true? It is because vegetarians and vegans need to eat lots of produce to create the equivalent amount of energy and calories that would be gained from a smaller portion of meat. When you add up the amount of greenhouse gases created by the larger amount of plants needed for a meat equivalent diet, the total may very well be larger than the meat total.

As an illustrative example, let us assume that the production of one portion of meat causes four times the amount of greenhouse gases as one portion of veggies. The problem is that a person may need to eat five or more portions of veggies to gain an equivalent amount of energy as that one portion of meat, which means their total greenhouse gases would be greater. The study indicated numerous people who ate more of a plant based diet were probably causing more greenhouse gases than those who are a more meat based diet.

The study is not definitive but it should make you reconsider your assumptions. Sustainability is not black or white, but is rather a complex issue where numerous factors need to be considered. Don't automatically assume eating meat is worse than eating plants. That is an overly simplistic viewpoint and doesn't take into consideration matters such as the total amount of plants that are necessary for a proper diet.

So stop demonizing meat eaters.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently. **********************************************************
1) Chef & Owner Anthony Caturano is about to reawaken Gravy Sundays at his newly reopened Prezza. Keeping in the longstanding Italian tradition of family and food, “Gravy Sundays” provides Old World-style comfort cuisine this winter. Menu features include the following: Fritto Misto (preparation changes weekly - $14); Tagliatelle & Meatballs (homemade, hand-cut tagliatelle with San Marzano tomatoes and meatballs - $16); and, Chicken Parmigiana (with homemade gnocchi and tomato - $24). Other homestyle signature dishes that Prezza serves up in true “Gravy Sundays” fashion are the Potato Gnocchi a la Bolognese (rustic meat ragout, tomato, porcini cream, Pecorino cheese – appetizer: $15; entrée: $30) and Homemade Meatballs, Sausages & Ribs (tomato, polenta - $26).

For reservations, please call 617-227-1577

2) On Monday, March 18, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, the Joslin Diabetes Center will host its 9th Annual Spoonful of Ginger event to once again benefiting Joslin’s Asian American Diabetes Initiative. It will feature some of Boston’s finest chefs for a food tasting at the beautiful Art of the Americas Wing at the Museum of Fine Arts.

Guests will enjoy an evening of gourmet dishes prepared by some of Boston’s most renowned chefs, including Joanne Chang, Andy Husbands, Ming Tsai, and Jasper White. Proceeds benefit Joslin Diabetes Center’s Asian American Diabetes Initiative (AADI), which strives to enhance the quality of life and health outcomes for the rising number of Asian Americans living with diabetes, as well as working with Joslin in their commitment to finding a cure. At this year’s event, Joslin Diabetes Center will honor Eva and Nick Chau, Dr. C. Ronald Kahn, M.D., and celebrity chef Ming Tsai for their contributions to the AADI’s mission and the Asian American community.

Cost: Tickets are $250 each.

For Tickets: Call 617-309-2512, e-mail Kevin.Hudson@joslin.harvard.edu or visit: www.joslin.org/ginger

3) On Wednesday, February 27, from 6:30pm-8pm, Alma Nove invites food and wine lovers alike to join them for “A Taste of Tuscany” – a fun and informative tasting event which explores a selection of wines paired with cuisine from the Tuscan region of Italy. Chef de Cuisine, Jim Caputo, has carefully selected dishes that reflect Tuscan Italian flavors to complement the wines of the evening. Wine Director Carrie Casagrande of Alma Nove and Director of Italian Wine, Ciro Pirone, from Horizon Beverage, will discuss the featured wines while Chef Jim Caputo will discuss how the Tuscan dishes complement the evening’s wine selection.

Featured wines include:
- Castello di Montauto Vernaccia di San Gimignano
- Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva
- Frescobaldi Vin Santo

Reservations are required as this is very intimate event limited to 15 people. To reserve a spot, please call 781-749-3353.
Cost: $35 per person + gratuity

Castello di Amorosa: A Taste of Italy in California

How many wineries do you know which possess their own medieval torture chamber? You can find one at Castello di Amorosa in the Napa Valley, a winery with its own authentic Tuscan castle. Maybe they need the rack, iron maiden and other torture implements to handle unruly guests in their tasting room?

The origins of the Castello di Amorosa winery extend back to the late 19th century. In 1885, Vittorio Sattui, an Italian immigrant, established the V. Sattui winery in San Francisco. Prohibition put an end to the winery yet it would be resurrected fifty years later by Dario Sattui, his great grandson, in 1972. Dario reopened V.Sattui in St. Helena and it did well enough that Dario was able to expand. He bought a property in Calistoga in 1993 and then started construction of a Tuscan castle and winery, which opened in 2007.

Castello di Amorosa specializes in Italian style wines, though they make some standard wines too, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. It is their Italian-style wines though which intrigue me and I recently received some media samples of several of their wines. Unfortunately, their wines may be difficult for others to locate as they only sell them directly to the public. They are not available in wine stores or restaurants, and do not currently ship to Massachusetts. However, these wines are worth seeking out if you can find a means of acquiring them, such as a friend in New Hampshire or Connecticut.

The 2011 Dolcino Gewurtztraminer ($24) is made from 100% Gewurztraminer, a blend of estate fruit and some purchased fruit. The term Dolcino is an Italian diminutive for being "lightly sweet," which reflects the style of this wine. The wine is aged only in stainless steel, has an alcohol content of 12%, and about 1849 cases were produced. This wine has a typical Gewurztraminer profile, both aromas and flavors, but is slightly sweet. It is a well made wine, balanced and complex, and is an excellent companion to spicy Asian fare. It tastes more European than California, and I recommend it.

The Italian word Gioia means Joy and the 2011 Gioia Rosato di Sangiovese ($24) brought me much Joy! This Rosé, made from 100% Sangiovese, was aged only in stainless steel, has an alcohol content of 13.1%, and about 1642 cases were produced. First, the alluring aromas, bright fruits, tantalized my nose and once I tasted it, the melange of complex flavors thrilled my palate. Strawberry, plum, raspberry, cherry, mild citrus and herbal hints. Dry, crisp acidity, and a satisfying finish. An excellent food wine, and something you can enjoy year round. Drink one glass and I bet you finish the entire bottle that same day. Highly recommended.

The 2009 Sangiovese ($30) is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot, and I had high hopes for this wine after my experience with the Rosato. It didn't let me down. The wine is aged for 18 months in French oak, has an alcohol content of 14.5%, and about 3531 cases were produced. Again, the aromas were seductive, bright cherry, herbs and spices, and it tasted wonderful. A complex blend of flavors, including black cherry, plum, spices, vanilla and mild herbal notes with a tinge of earthiness. A lengthy finish, smooth tannins and a wine that made you crave more and more. It reminded me more of a traditional Sangiovese style than a modern one. Another highly recommended wine.

Castellana means "The Lady of the Castle" and the 2008 La Castellana ($68) is a Super Tuscan-style blend, containing 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, and 14% Sangiovese. The wine is aged for 20 months in French oak, has an alcohol content of 14.6%, and about 1634 cases were produced. There are two basic styles of Super Tuscan blends: a Chianti style (heavy on the Sangiovese) and a more Bordeaux style (usually heavier on Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot). I have a strong preference for the more Sangiovese heavy Super Tuscans, such as the Isole e Olena Cepparello and the Fontodi Flaccianello.

Thus, the Castellana wasn't the type of Super Tuscan that I usually gravitate to, but I found it to be an excellent wine. It is a complex and intense wine, yet the tannins are manageable and it doesn't pulverize you with its flavors. Dark berries, black cherry, a little tartness, a rich spiciness and hints of mocha. A lingering finish is very pleasant, and it probably would be best with a hearty dish, from a juicy steak to a Bolognese Tagliatelle. I would love to see what Castello could do with a more Sangiovese heavy Super Tuscan.

The next time I am in Napa, I will have to visit Castello di Amorosa, to taste more of their wines, and o hopefully catch a peek at their torture chamber.