Wednesday, January 31, 2018

Culinary Creativity: Chef Steve Zimei

Chef Steve Zimei is the Executive Chef at Chopps American Bar & Grill, which is located at the Marriott Burlington. Steve is a native of Massachusetts and graduated from Johnson & Wales University in 1995. He then began his culinary career working for Chef Daniel Bruce, eventually becoming a sous chef at Rowes Wharf Sea Grille. Steve would also work on the opening teams for spots including Aquitaine, Harvest and XV Beacon Hotel. In addition, Steve moved onto executive chef positions at places including Gallia, Hotel MIT, The Worcester Restaurant Group, the Papa Razzi Group, and most recently Trails End Café in Concord.

Most recently, Steve returned to work with Chef Bruce at Chopps, introducing new flavors to rejuvenate the American chophouse. Outside of the kitchen you can find Zimei, an avid runner and cyclist, racing for the local cycling team Optimum Performance and serving his community through various charitable organizations. Zimei currently resides in Leominster with his wife and three young sons.

Chopps American Bar & Grill is one of my Top 50 Restaurants of 2017, and I've enjoyed numerous lunches and dinners at this spot. Chef Zimei is helping to ensure the consistent quality of this restaurant and it's great to see the new dishes he creates.

(Check out my Introduction to the Culinary Creativity series.)

Now onto the interview--

How important is culinary creativity to you? Why is it important?
"Culinary Creativity plays a vital role in being a chef. I am constantly thinking of what's coming in-season and new ways for my staff to learn and grow as culinary professionals. Being creative with menu design, technique, and presentation are all essential in this industry. The best part of my day is when I see a dish come to life. We have a vast array of clientele from all over the world that dine with us at Chopps, so we like to showcase our talents with weekly features that, if a fan-favorite, have the potential of going on our menu."

What are your most significant inspirations for your culinary creativity? What makes those matters so inspiring?
"I find that a lot of my inspiration stems from visiting local farms where I can feel, eat, and smell the freshest produce at the time. I like to utilize new ingredients to compliment dishes. Traveling to other restaurants to try different cuisines is also important to me to stay current in the culinary world. Not only is it fun, but experiencing new dishes really helps with flavor combinations that I can use to develop into my own style."

Where do you get your ideas for new recipes/dishes?
"A lot of my menu items develop from foods that I love to eat...I often go out and have dinner and say, “man I need to have a variation of this on the menu.” I will then experiment with flavors that are true to my style and build from there. Often seeking advice from my sous chefs is the best way to get a true feeling of whether the dish works or how to tweak it if needs be."

What is your process of creating a new recipe or dish?
"Creating a dish for me always starts by using the highest quality of ingredients that is in-season. We change our menu quarterly, so a menu change isn't just a few items but 10-15 dishes. I typically focus in on an idea and then run it as a feature on a tasting menu. Eating a dish a few times helps me navigate textures and flavor profiles until it is at the standard we want to serve guests. With the chef’s tasting menus, we can really play around with off-menu items and those tend to be the most fun for us!"

Do other members of your staff assist with creating ideas for new recipes/dishes?
"My sous chef and I are constantly bouncing ideas off each other. Most times, we will bring ingredients into the kitchen and cook until we are happy with the end result. This is a time when we can be totally honest and also allow for our staff to give feedback."

What is the most difficult part of culinary creativity?
"The hardest part of culinary creativity is not letting yourself fall back into your "old stand bys". I try to not repeat dishes that I have crafted in the past and continue using different products. Staying focused when in the restaurant is a different challenge in itself when so many things are happening simultaneously."

Do you ever experience "writer's block," an inability to be creative, and if so, how do you deal with it? 
"Absolutely. I don’t usually tend to have writer’s block in terms of creativity, but I often overthink dishes, which can prevent me from letting the simplicity of natural flavors shine. To overcome this, I take a step back from my pad, and go for a long bike ride to clear my head. I’ve also found it’s helpful for me to think of food pairings late at night before I head to bed…when the kids are asleep and the house is quiet. Usually this is when I’m not stressing over why I just put watermelon and sea beans together!"

Tuesday, January 30, 2018

Starting the New Year With Crémant d'Alsace & Lobster

January 1, 2018: I chose to open two bottles of Crémant d'Alsace as a delicious way to start the New Year. My first wines of 2018, paired with 12 pounds of Homarus americanus, the American Lobster. Bubbles and the Bounty of the waters of Maine.

Simply put, Crémant d'Alsace is a French sparkling wine from the Alsace region. In Alsace, they have been producing sparkling wines since the early 19th century but it wasn't until 1976 that the Crémant d'Alsace AOC was created. It's produced in a similar fashion to Champagne, though there are some differences as well. The term "crémant" means "creamy" and originally referred to sparkling wines that were produced with less pressure, which tended to make them taste more creamy than effervescent.

The Crémant d'Alsace AOC has strict regulations on viticulture and viniculture, and six grapes are permitted including Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Auxerrois Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. Most of their Blanc de Blancs is made from Pinot Blanc while Pinot Noir is the only grape permitted in their Rosé. Total production of Crémant d'Alsace, which comprises about 22% of the region's production, is about 33 million bottles. However, only about 300,000 bottles are imported into the U.S.

Americans need to drink more Crémant d'Alsace! In fact, Americans need to drink more wines, of all types, from Alsace. As I've said repeatedly before, the wines of Alsace are generally not on the radar of the average consumer but they should be. They can often provide excellent value and taste. They are enjoyable while young but can also age well. They can provide a sense of history, as well as showcase state of the art wine making. They pair well with a diverse variety of foods and cuisines. And at their most basic, they are absolutely delicious.

To learn more about Crémant d'Alsace, check out some of my previous articles where I share my passion for this tasty bubbly, including: Crémant d'Alsace & The Spartans At ThermopylaeSchoenheitz Winery: A Taste Of BeautyPuritan & Co.: Alsatian Wine AdviceGustave Lorentz: More Alsatian Wine TreasuresAlsatian Wines & Pheasant at Craigie On Main and Crémant d'Alsace: A New Year's Eve Recommendation.

The first of the wines for the evening was the 2014 Domaine Albert Mann Extra Brut Crémant d'Alsace (about $24). The winery is a union of two families, Mann (who have been wine growers since the start of the 17th century) and Barhelmé (wine growers since 1654). Currently, the winery is owned and operated by Maurice and Jacky Barthelmé, with their wives, Marie-Claire and Marie-Thérèse. The Barthelmés believe: "The goal of the estate is to produce wine that is in harmony with nature. Wine is the memory of the grape and is capable of transmitting the taste of the earth." In adherence to this belief, their estate is certified organic and has been Biodynamic since 1997. Their estate includes 23 hectares of vineyards, broken up into about 100 separate plots, growing Riesling (29%), Gewurztraminer (20%), Pinot Blanc/Auxerrois (19%), Pinot Gris (17%), Pinot Noir (11%) and Muscat (3%).

This Crémant d'Alsace is a blend of Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. With a fine golden color and a myriad of tiny bubbles, it possesses an alluring aroma, with elements of fresh fruit. On the palate, the Crémant is fresh, crisp and dry, with delicious flavors of green apple, pear and hints of lemon. Though it is fruit driven, there is complexity in the palate as well, with a touch of minerality and hints of spice. There is a light, elegant creaminess to this wine with a lengthy, pleasing finish, ending with more fruit notes. It livened up my mouth and brought to mind the coming Spring. It was my favorite of the two Crémants and at this price point is an excellent value.

The second wine of the evening was the NV Meyer-Fonne Crémant d'Alsace Brut Extra (about $24). The winery is currently owned and operated by Félix Meyer, the third generation in his family since his grandfather founded the domaine in the late 19th century. The vineyards comprise about 12 hectares, over seven communes, each bringing its own unique terroir. Though the winery has been modernized, Félix still follows some traditions, such as aging wines on the lees in large, older foudres, and has a strong respect for terroir.

This Crémant d'Alsace is a blend of 60% Pinot Auxerrois, 20% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Blanc, and 5% Pinot Noir. Many of those grapes are sourced from vines that are about 45 years old. The lees rest in the bottle for a minimum of 12 months before disgorgement. It's color is a bit paler gold than the Mann but has equally as fine bubbles. Its aroma is more subtle, with mild fruit and a hint of brioche.   On the palate, this Crémant is fresh, crisp and dry, with more savory notes, underlying apple and citrus notes as well as a backbone of minerality. There is a touch of bitterness on the palate too, which isn't off-putting, and adds complexity to the taste. The ending is long and satisfying and is also a good value at this price point. Though I preferred the Mann of the two, I still enjoyed this wine and it is worthy of my recommendation too.

How did the Crémant d'Alsace pair with our lobster dinner? In general, Sparkling wine is a versatile food wine and often pairs very well with seafood. With the sweetness and rich of lobster, especially dipped in drawn butter, it helps to have a wine with good acidity and both of these wines possessed that trait. Plus, their tiny bubbles helped to cleanse the palate between bites. The complex flavors of the two wines also complemented the delicious lobster. It was a killer pairing, well appreciated by everyone at the table. And such a hedonistic way to begin the New Year.

With Valentine's Day coming, I'd highly recommend you emulate my dinner, and share some lobsters with your significant other, pairing it with some tasty Crémant d'Alsace. Or just drink some Crémant d'Alsace for another special occasion. Or just drink it because it is a Tuesday or Wednesday night.

(I received both of these Crémants as media samples.)

Monday, January 29, 2018

Rant: Tell The Restaurant Who Sent You

Which local restaurant critics, reviewers, bloggers and others are the most influential? That is a difficult question to answer and some believe it is based, at least in part, on their number of social media followers.    

However, a recent New York Times article, The Follower Factory, has ignited discussions about fake followers on various social media platforms. People can purchase fake followers, to increase their numbers so that they seem more popular and influential. For some "influencers," the number of their followers directly affects how much money they generate, so there is a clear incentive to raise their follower numbers, even if they must buy them. As such, followers numbers may not be a good measure of influence.

Before dining out, many consumers consult restaurant reviews to assist in determining where they should eat. They may read newspapers, magazines, blogs, message boards, and social media sites. Sometimes they'll read multiple reviews of a restaurant, while other times a single review will catch their eye. Based on what they find, they may select a certain restaurant, finding a compelling reason in the review they checked out.

Unfortunately, many of these diners fail to mention to any of the restaurant employees the reason for why they chose to dine there. They eat in silence, remaining anonymous, and no one realizes what drew that customer to that particular spot. As such, restaurants don't understand the full extent and influence of specific restaurant reviews. A large piece of the overall puzzle remains missing and I, and others, would like to see that puzzle completed as much as possible. Restaurant owners certainly would love to know whose reviews led people to dine at their establishment.

Personally, if one of my readers dines at a restaurant based on one of my reviews, and they enjoy their meal, I would appreciate a small favor in return. First, please tell the restaurant that you visited them based on my recommendation. Second, please tell me where you dined based on my review. That would be very useful to me and would be beneficial to the restaurants as well. I receive feedback from some of readers, and know at least some have let restaurants know they visited due to reading one of my reviews.

I know that I am not alone, and that other writers and bloggers would love to hear more feedback on their reviews. So I encourage you to do a similar favor to them. If a review motivates you to visit a certain restaurant, then let that restaurant know which review led you there. Let your voice be heard, and it will cost you no more than a few moments of your time.

Tell the restaurant who sent you.

Thursday, January 25, 2018

Sips & Nibbles: Valentine's Day Edition

I am back again with a special Valentine's Day edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) The Automatic Food + Drink loves heat, spice, sweat and tears. So, of course The Automatic is hosting its own unique Cupid's Hell Night on February 14. With hot chili peppers as one of the most popular and powerful aphrodisiacs, what’s not to love at Cupid’s Hell Night at The Automatic? Plus, let’s be honest, it is a great excuse for Cousin Dave to dress up like Cupid.

Chris Schlesinger has handed over the flames to Chef Martin and he is up for the challenge. Martin is creating a menu that will put every sense to the ultimate test. According to Cousin Dave Cagle, “We aren’t holding your hand through this one. That’s what your Valentine is for.”

Two seatings, beginning at 6pm. Reservations highly recommended as The Automatic Hell Nights always sell out. To make a reservation, please call 617-714-5226.

2) Spend a romantic night out with your one-and-only at RUKA by indulging in a four-course prix fixe menu for $55 per person. Enjoy the Tuna Roja Maki, a heart-shaped spicy tuna roll hugged in tuna sashimi, before digging into savory V-Day specials such as the Lobster Lomo Saltado and Grilled Corazon de Ribeye. To finish, satisfy your sweet tooth with the Pink Velvet Albaricocada, a Japanese sponge cake topped with dulce de leche, apricot marmalade, coconut meringue, besos de moza ice cream and drizzled with pink chocolate ganache. For Reservations, please call (617) 266-0102

Make it a staycation by reserving a room at The Godfrey Hotel with their Love Takes Over package. Guests of the hotel on the 14th will receive double occupancy accommodations, a bottle of Veuve Cliquot champagne, beloved classic mouse chocolates from L.A. Burdick, overnight valet parking and a 2pm check-out.

3) Love is treating that special someone to a romantic dinner at Yvonne’s. On Valentine’s Day, enjoy dinner specials such as the Spice-Smoked Duck Breast ($15) served with a sherry glazed celery root, quince jam and vegetable escabeche and the Honey Walnut Shrimp ($17) with a hot ginger honey, charred gai lan, chili mayo, and buddha’s hand citrus. End the night with the Chain & Whip ($10), a dessert featuring red velvet cheesecake, twisted doughnut, whipped chocolate ganache and unicorn sprinkles. For Reservations, please call 617-267-0047

4) Take that special someone out for an evening they will not forget. Chef Josue at Bistro du Midi has put together a special four course, multi-choice menu with optional wine pairings. You can enjoy dishes such as Chamomile Cured Scallop, Wagyu Beef Tartare, Seared Foie Gras, Duck Breast, Venison Loin, and Dulcey Ganache. The Valentine’s Day prix fixe menu is $105 per guest, with an optional $65 wine pairing. Both bars welcome walk-ins only, with a limited special Valentine’s Day Bar Menu. To make Reservations, please call 617-426-7878.

5) The team at Chopps American Bar and Grill invites guests to celebrate Valentine’s Day with a special Chef’s Tasting Menu, available Friday, February 9th-Saturday, February 17th. Executive Chef Steve Zimei has crafted an exclusive menu for lovebirds in addition to the a la carte menu items.

The full Valentine’s Weekend Chef’s Tasting Menu is as follows:
First Course
French Onion Soup, Caramelized Onions, Sherry, Cheese Crostini
Second Course
Lobster Gnocchi, Ricotta Gnocchi, Maine Lobster, Winter Vegetable, Mascarpone
Entrée
Aspen Ridge Short Ribs, Five Spice, Celery Root, Salsify, Wild Mushroom, Smoked Bacon Brodo
Dessert
Butter Scotch Pot De Crème, Candied Pistachio Brittle

The Boston Marriott Burlington invites guests to take the elevator home with a Romance Package. Treat your sweetheart to this special package featuring overnight accommodations for two, dinner, and breakfast at Chopps American Bar and Grill, and a $50 gift card to Longs Jewelers to pick up something special. Guests will receive a bottle of champagne hand-delivered to their room to sip and savor and toast to each other.

6) Celebrate with the one you love in Kendall Square this February 14 at Sulmona Restaurant + BarChef Delio’s has crafted some exclusive menu additions full of amore. The Sulmona team is also featuring a special wine for the evening, the 2013 San Silvestro Barolo, which is available by the glass or bottle.

The full Valentine’s Day a la carte menu:
Amuse-Bouche
Goat Cheese Panna Cotta, marinated Blood Orange, white balsamic
Appetizer
Delicata Squash & Brown Butter Mascarpone Cannelloni, cipollini onion agrodolce, toasted sage
Entrees
--Duck Duo (For Two), crispy confit leg, pan roasted breast, sun choke gratin, braised trevisano, black cherry grappa jus
--Fish of the Night, prosciutto wrapped monkfish, Romanesco, sage gnocchi, tangerine cream
--Lobster, potato gnocchi, poached Maine lobster, morel mushrooms, tarragon
Dessert
Dark Chocolate Panettone Bead Pudding, milk chocolate crème fraiche, fresh strawberries

To make Reservations, please call the restaurant at 617-714-4995.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Bar Boulud takes a modern approach to the classic Parisian patisserie experience with the debut of its new menu: “An Afternoon in Paris.” Whether gathering for business or pleasure, this experience features a selection of afternoon “perks,” including café, tea and rich house-made chocolat chaud, paired with an assortment of petite patisserie created by Pastry Chef Robert Differ.

Available daily from 2:30 to 5:30pm in the restaurant lounge, the menu includes:
--Café & Tea (espresso, cappuccino, latte, café au lait, selection of artisanal teas) $7
--Chocolat Chaud
Valrhona Illanka 64% Dark $8
Valrhona Dulcey 32% Blonde $8
Savory
--Vegetable Crudité (seasonal veggies, Chef Daniel Boulud’s famous aïoli) $12
--Les Tartines (smoked salmon, shrimp & avocado, jambon-beurre) $15
Sweet 
--Petite Madeleines (brown butter cakes, sugar dust) $8
--French Macarons (chef’s seasonal flavors) $12
--Pâte à Choux (Trio: éclair au chocolat, grand marnier profiterole, praline cream puff) $12
--Fondue au Chocolat (serves two to four guests) $12
melting dark chocolate sphere, strawberries, madeleines, vanilla bean marshmallows
--La Tour Eiffel (serves two to four guests) $88
vegetable crudité, les tartines, french macarons, petite madeleines, pâte à choux and choice of coffee, tea or chocolat chaud

To make a reservation, please call 6170-535-8800

2) On Sunday, January 7th, 2018, a pipe burst at United South End Settlements’ (USES) South End House, causing extensive damage to each floor and displacing over 100 children from early childhood education and after school programming.

USES President and CEO Maicharia Weir Lytle explains the impact: “At $20 per hour for a babysitter, the cost of care per week for one child can be over $1,000. For our low-income families, this burden is devastating. Fortunately, our community has come together in beautiful ways. Families who are able to provide private childcare have opened up their homes and welcomed families who otherwise could not access care.

To this end, USES has created an emergency fund to support families with financial assistance, cover the costs associated with equipping a temporary space, and assist USES with expenses related to rehabbing our building that are not covered by insurance.

USES has secured temporary space for programming, as demolishing and rebuilding the interior of the building is expected to take 12-18 weeks. “The biggest expense USES faces is repairing our roof. The pipe burst due to exposure to the frigid outside air. Insurance will not cover the repairs, yet this work is essential to preventing a future recurrence,” said Weir Lytle.

On Tuesday, February 6, neighbors and supporters are invited to stop by The Beehive and enjoy complimentary hors d’oeuvres between 6pm-8pm, and make a financial contribution to USES and/or drop off new and gently used toys and books for USES's classrooms. In addition, The Beehive will donate 100% food sales on USES dinner reservations February 5th, 6th, and 7th. (Be sure to use code “USES” and book a separate reservation on the Beehive's website or call 617-423-0069)

The mission of United South End Settlements is to harness the power of the diverse community to disrupt the cycle of poverty for children and their families. In the South End, where USES is located, 36% of children live below the poverty line. Collectively, they have the capacity to do better for the children in their neighborhood, ensuring that both children and their parents develop the skills they need to succeed in school and in the workplace.

3) In celebration of National Hot Chocolate Day on January 31, the North End’s il Molo will show off and serve up their specialty hot chocolate recipe at no charge. Not your average hot cocoa with powdered ingredients, il Molo’s hot chocolate blends milk with melted, rich chunks of chocolate and is topped with whipped cream and chocolate shavings. For added warmth, order a spiked option with your favorite winter liqueur for a supplementary charge.

Date: Wednesday, January 31 beginning at 4pm
Cost: Free with purchase of a menu item. Spiked hot chocolate available for additional charge

4) Chef Tony Maws is known for all things pork – especially his show-stopping Pig’s Head Platter served at Craigie On Main. Tony is offering Craigie’s Pig’s Head Platter, complete with all the fixin’s, as a Super Bowl Pigskin Take Out – so get your orders in early.  This is a fingerlickin’ crowd pleasin’ platter of luscious pig’s head, ribs and/or sausage. Complete with all the fixin’s.

The Pigs Head Platter (Cost $75, Serves 4-6 people) includes:
1 Half Slow-Roasted Milk-Fed Pig’s Head
12 Chicken Wings
Black beans
Guacamole
Red Chile Sauce
Tortillas
Cabbage slaw
Corn bread

Additional supplement
*Full spice-crusted rack of heritage pork ribs / $25.
And / Or
6 country pork sausages, sauerkraut and homemade mustards / $25.
And /Or
The Kirkland Tap & Trotter’s Green Chile Michelada Miz (8 ox of housemade fire-roasted green chile sauce and lime) / $8.

Please note, several of these items in the Pigskin Package are not good for people with a peanut allergy. Also please note, you can order several racks of ribs, just please fill out separate tickets for additional orders.

Please order by February 3 and pick up on February 4, fro 12pm-5pm.
To order: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/craigies-swanky-super-bowl-party-package-2018-tickets-42409788820?mc_cid=e64d08319b&mc_eid=faf4a679dc

5) Chef Tony Maws is pleased to host Boston Food Fight: February Fry-Off to benefit No Kid Hungry on February 10, from 1pm-3pm at The Kirkland Tap & Trotter. Tony has invited four guest chefs from top restaurants in the city to compete in this legendary Boston Food Fight. The four chefs will compete for votes in the ultimate battle for the perfect french fry! Admission includes all you can eat, as well as 2 sponsored drinks.

Competing Restaurants/Chefs:
Craigie On Main, Chef Nick Anichini
Tiger Mama, Chef Ellie Campbell
The Table at Season To Taste, Chef Carl Dooley
Highland Fried, Chef Mark Romano

Tickets: $20.
Reservations: https://ce.nokidhungry.org/events/boston-food-fights-fry