The Nile: “The Most Famous Syrian Restaurant This Side of the Pyramids”

Located just outside Chinatown, at 52 Hudson Street, a Syrian restaurant, The Nile, quietly opened sometime between 1934-1938. Initially, it was patronized only by Syrians and received little media attention for over ten years. Over time though, its popularity grew and it began garnering national attention, becoming probably the most famous Syrian restaurant in Boston. However, how many people nowadays know of The Nile and its history? Unfortunately, it has been largely forgotten so it's time to highlight its history.

Previously, I wrote about the early history of Boston's Little Syria and its restaurants, as well as a history of the Sahara Syrian Restaurant, whose iconic sign remains standing after nearly fifty years, Now, I'm detailing the history of a hugely popular Syrian restaurant, The Nile, which many people probably know nothing about. It's initially interesting to point out that the Nile River doesn't exist within Syria, so it's a curious name for a Syrian restaurant. 

The actual date of the opening of The Nile is vague, as all the newspaper references I've found have been very general, and partially contradictory. The earliest newspaper references, from the 1950s, seemed to indicate the restaurant opened around 1937 or 1938. However, later references, during the 1960s, tended to point to an origin more around 1934. Thus, the restaurant existed in Boston for about 31-35 years. 

The earliest newspaper reference I found to The Nile, about ten years after its opening, was in the Boston Globe, September 16, 1946, in the above advertisement. It noted the restaurant was open from 10am-1am and served Syrian and American dishes. They claimed to be famed for their Lamb Mishwi, lamb on skewers (also known to Americans as Shish Kabobs), and Syrian Salad. 

There was then a brief reference in the Boston Globe, November 8, 1946, noting, “The Nile Restaurant is a rendezvous for those who like different food, especially the Syrian types of dishes which it features.” Syrian cuisine was seen as "exotic" at this time period. 

As mentioned in a legal notice in the Boston Globe, November 29, 1947, the restaurant applied for a license to sell alcohol, Malt and Wine. The notice listed Michael D. Salem, George D. Salem, and John Salem, as representatives of The Nile restaurant.

The Boston Herald, October 11, 1949, also posted a small advertisement for The Nile in a column titled "Where To Dine. Dance Entertainment." In a major typo, it noted the restaurant specialized in "Lawn Mishivi," which should have been Lamb Mishwi. That typo was unfortunately still in subsequent ads for at least two months. The ad also mentioned they served beer and wine. 

The first lengthy article about The Nile was presented in the Boston Herald, November 1, 1951. The writer sought out Syrian food at The Nile, and “being in a daring mood,” ordered some stuffed grape leaves. Nowadays, that dish wouldn't be considered daring at all, but in in the early 1950s, it wasn't a very common dish at all, at least to many Americans. 

The restaurant founder and owner of The Nile was Deeb G. Salem, also known as George Salem, a Syrian who previously worked as a chef in a swank Lake George Resort in New York. When he decided to go out on his own, he moved to Boston and opened his own restaurant, The Nile. Initially, the restaurant was in a small room, and his menu and clientele were all Syrian. As of 1951, there were about 16,000 Syrians in the Boston area. 

Over time, the restaurant grew to two rooms, and the menu expanded to include American dishes as well. For entertainment, the restaurant had a juke box, with a number of records of Syrian music, though all of those records were made in Egypt. The slogan of Deeb Salem and his restaurant was  “The Most Famous Syrian Restaurant This Side of the Pyramids.” 

Salem stated that the difference between Syrian and Greek cooking, both which favor lamb as the central meat course, was largely the seasoning. “The Greeks…favor a rather higher style of seasoning than the Syrians, and use a good deal more oil.” Salem also mentioned that at the restaurant, they cooked everything in a special butter, which was made from sheep's milk and imported from Syria. This butter was expensive, costing $2.50 a pound, which translates to about $25.70 in today's dollar. 

In addition, Salem mentioned that numerous adventurous diners came to his restaurant, as well as some celebrities, such as "Danny Lewis." The writer was unable to place that alleged celebrity, but from later newspaper references, the owner might actually have meant Danny Thomas.  

On their typewritten menu was their signature dish, Lahm Mishwi, also known as shishkabeb or lamb en brochette, which is lamb barbecued on steel skewers, The Syrian style called for a slice of tomato and onion between each square of meat. As for the choice of lamb cut, the Syrians usually preferred the fatter meat of the lamb forequarters, but Salem used a leg of lamb as Americans generally didn't appreciate the fatty meat.

Also on the menu was Dahood Basha, ground lamb with Syrian spices, onions, green pepper and tomato sauce with pine nuts. The pine nuts were also imported from Syria, and used in many native dishes. There was also Lubiah bi Lahm, a stew of garlic and string beans.

Salem was a pastry chef, and with a lack of humility called himself “the best.”  He presided over the preparation of Baqlawa, a pastry of paper-thin layers of pie crust stuffed with crushed walnuts and pistachios, and Halawa, which was made of sesame seeds, sugar, and oil of bergamot. His son, John, did most of the barbecueing, while his wife Rose did all of the other cooking; She had a great reputation as a cook for “the great ladies of their native Syria” so had wanted to work at the restaurant. John and Rose would continue to work there for the length of its existence. 

The Boston American, September 15, 1958, ran another advertisement for The Nile, emphasizing Shish-Kabab, another term for Lahm Mishwi. This word change might have been an effort to appeal more to non-Syrians, using a more familiar term.

A Harvard professor cooking at The Nile? The Boston Traveler, June 19, 1961, wrote about Mrs. Esma Durzi, a professor of Arabic at Harvard University. In addition, she was a cook at The Nile restaurant! She generally worked at the restaurant from 8am to 3:30pm, and then taught her class, four days a week, from 4pm-6pm. Esma was a native of Palestine, having attended the Training College for Teachers in Jerusalem. 

In 1948, Esma and her family fled to Cairo because of the Arab-Israeli conflict. They wanted a good education for their children and moving to the U.S. seemed like their best option. She came to the U.S. with her family in December 1958, and lived in Cambridge. 

The Nile had about 300 customers each day, and Esma prepared much of the food in advance, except for meat that was cooked to order. She ws certainly a hard worker, starting her day at 5am, preparing dinner for her family for that night, and never complaining about those long hours.

The Nile acquired plenty of fame, and numerous celebrities that came to Boston dined there. For example, the Boston Herald, November 30, 1961, reported that limousines stopped at The Nile, picking up food for the wife of King Saud, who was undergoing medical treatment at the Peter Bent Brigham Hospital. King Fahd also dined there as did the Aga Khan, the Kennedys and Jimmy Durante. 

Unfortunately, in April 1963, The Nile had to close its Hudson Street location. The Boston Traveler, February 13, 1964, reported that The Nile lost its property when the site was taken for the Turnpike extension. That required The Nile to relocate its restaurant. Would The Nile be able to survive at a different location? 

The new location of The Nile reopened by March 1964. The Boston Globe, March 8, 1964, published a very basic advertisement for the  Nile Restaurant, now located at 78-90 Broadway, and mentioned their specialty, Shishkabob.

The first major review of the new location was presented in the Boston Herald, June 28, 1964, calling it "one of city’s most popular dining establishments." The restaurant had three dining rooms, decorated in red and black, with pillars, grooved arches, and Babylonian murals. The Harem cocktail Lounge was "complete with flying carpet" and with "deep red color effects and murals worth thousands of dollars od shepherds and nomads roaming ancient lands." In addition, "Tropical trees and waterfall embellish the entrance to the dining and lounge areas." This was a major step-up from their prior location. 

The Nile was operated by George, John, Rose and Deeb Salem, with John being in charge of menu preparation. The restaurant was open for Lunch from Monday to Friday, from 11:30am-3pm, with lunch starting at 99 cents. It was also open for dinner, seven days a week,until 10pm, and Cocktail time was from 12pm-4:30pm, offering drinks at 59 cents. 

The kitchen "uses rare recipes which have been handed down through generations of the Salem family, some of whom were royal chefs in the Near East." One of their appetizers, said to be a favorite of Cleopatra, was Hoomis Bi Tahini (ground chic peas, sesame paste, and seasoned Nile style). It was also mentioned that lamb dishes were a speciality, including Lah’m Mishwi (lamb on skewers) and Kharouf Mihshee (barbecued stuffed lamb). 

A few months later, the Boston Globe, September 27, 1964, provided their own review of The Nile, noting it "brings a new note in Middle Eastern 'savior faire' to downtown Boston." The article also stated that "the chic and mystery of this dining oasis is typified by a cocktail called Cleopassion--a potent mixture of crème de menthe, crème de cacao, cream, and grenadine."  

The restaurant had a palm-framed grotto in the lobby and  a “...pyramid design is reflected in metallic gold panels and a smoky blue ceiling of geodesic pattern.” There were also imported bronze filigree lamps. “There is privacy in the booths set in alcoves reminiscent of minarets.” In addition, there was black enamel detailing and red tablecloths. 

The food was served in American or Arabic style. You could order the Roast Lamb Kharouf, a tender lamb leg stuffed with ground lamb, rice and spices; which was “hailed in international chefs’ competitions in Paris.” The Tossed Salad a la Nile “has a distinctive dressing of fresh lemon, five kinds of olive oil, a hint of garlic and mint.” There were Stuffed Grape Leaves; Stuffed “Koosa” squash simmered in tomato sauce, and Eggplant stuffed with lamb and pignoli nuts. They also served the classic shishkabob, served five different ways. For dessert, you could enjoy their flaky honey pastry.  

That same issue of the Boston Globe, September 27, 1964, also had a half-page advertisement for The Nile, part of which is provided above. The ad stated, “The Harem lounge, complete with flying carpet, is hung with paintings and tapestries dating from 1900 back to 1086 when Spain was ruled by the Moors or Almoravides.” It also stated, they serve “..original near east food prepared in the old way by Mrs. Rose Salem the mother of the Salem family,...” In addition, it was noted they had private function rooms which could seat 30-125 people.

In a brief mention, the Boston Herald, December 18, 1964, printed, "A new place to try is the Nile Restaurant in Park Square, known for its Syrian food. Seasonings are suited to every taste.” 

Sad news for the Salem family, The Nile and the Boston community. The Boston Globe, July 6, 1966, reported that the patriarch of the Salem family, Deeb G. Salem died on Thursday. He was 75 years old and had lived at 9 Maplewood Street, West Roxbury. He was said to be a nationally known restaurateur, who had operated the Nile Restaurant for 32 years. He had been considered an expert in the preparation of Near Eastern cuisine. The Boston Herald, July 6, 1966, also had an obituary, noting Deeb Salem was a native of Lebanon who came to the U.S. over 60 years. 

The Nile restaurant continued to operate and the Boston Herald, August 24, 1967, highlighted George Salem, calling him the “king o’ the kabobs.” When making his shish kabob, “He marinates cubes of lamb in a delicious lemon-oil concoction that’s seasoned perfectly with dried mint and garlic.” George even gave his recipe to the Herald so they could publish it for their readers. All of the ingredients could be easily found in any grocery store, and many home cooks might even have all the ingredients already. 

Unfortunately, the restaurant lasted less than three years after the death of Deeb Salem. The Boston Globe, January 23, 1969, noted that the U.S. District Court had foreclosed on the restaurant, which was placed up for auction a short time later. There wasn't any indication in the newspapers as to the reasons for the downfall of The Nile. 

As a bit of a coda, the Boston Globe, July 29, 1970, published an article about Asma Durzi (referred to in a prior newspaper article as Esma Durzi), who was a cook for ten years at The Nile restaurant. She was currently still teaching at Harvard University. She now catered parties at her home, usually creating Near Eastern dishes. She provided a couple recipes to the Globe, including Eggplant-Sesame Dip, Rice with Orzo, and Stuffed Squash.

For about 35 years, The Nile was the most popular Syrian restaurant in Boston, a nationally known restaurant where celebrities and even heads of state dined. It had a humble start, a small room on Hudson Street, and grew over time, and was a true family affair, owned and operated by various members of the Salem family. The patriarch, Deeb George Salem, left behind an important legacy, helping to make Near Eastern cuisine more mainstream. The history of The Nile should not be forgotten. 

Closed For Nearly 50 Years: A History Of The Sahara Syrian Restaurant

(Photo courtesy of Patrick Maguire)

It's an iconic sign on Shawmut Avenue in Boston's South End, yet the restaurant itself has been closed for fifty years. The building has largely remained unused for all these years, except as a storage place by its current owners. It's obviously a valuable piece of property and its unfortunate that after all these years it hasn't been transformed into another restaurant or other commercial business. 

Although many people are aware of the restaurant sign, the history of the restaurant and its building itself is much less known. That history is quite fascinating, including attempts to start a new restaurant at that location, as well as to create a new location of the Sahara. And what is the connection of an ex-belly dancer to the Sahara? Let me offer some of the interesting history of the Sahara restaurant and its location.

The building itself extends back to the middle of the 19th century. According to the Boston Globe, October 24, 2004, “The Greek Revival-style building was built by the German Lutheran Society of Boston, which opened it as a church in 1847. Services were held exclusively in German for almost 40 years,…” The Boston Evening Transcript, March 6, 1867, noted "There is one Lutheran society in this city in which the services are conducted wholly in the German language. Their church is at the corner of Shawmut avenue and Waltham street."

The Lutheran Church's 50th Jubilee! The Boston Globe, February, 18, 1889, noted that the church celebrated their 50th Jubilee, which was attended by over 800 people from all over New England. The pastor, Rev. F. Lindeman spoke briefly about the church's history, noting there were a large number of Lutherans in Boston by 1830, but it wasn't until 1837 or 1838 that the Lutherans had their first pastor and a place of worship. 

Their initial place of worship was on Washington Street, near Dover, the site of an old schoolhouse. The Shawmut church, their new place of worship, was dedicated on Christmas Day in 1847, and in 1889 had a congregation of about 1300. The Boston Evening Transcript, November 28, 1896, noted that there were three German Lutheran societies in Boston, the parent church being the one on Shawmut Avenue, said to be the oldest German church in the city. 

In 1898, the Lutheran church was sold, for $25,000, to the Calvary Baptist Church, with the Lutherans having bought a property on West Newton Street, formerly owned by the Church of the Unity. The Lutherans planned to tear down the existing property and construct a modern facility. The Calvary Baptist Church, consisting of a black congregation, was the youngest of its denomination and the parishioners previously worshipped in a building at the corner of Ferdinand and Isabella (or Cortes) streets. 

The Calvary Church took possession of the Shawmut property during August, 1898, dedicating the building on October 2, 1898. According to the Boston Globe, December 27, 1898, the Shawmut property consisted of "a brick structure standing on 3000 square feet of land, the whole taxed for $22,500. The land is assessed for $10,500." It was also noted that the Calvary church would make some improvements before occupying it. In 1915, the Shawmut avenue building ended up being repossessed. 

Through the Suffolk County Registry of Deeds, and searching in the Unindexed Property records, I was able to track ownership of the property which later became the Sahara restaurant. In 1924, John P. Vaccaro sold the property to Hovhannes Zovickian, Mourad P. Mouradian, and Kabriel S. Papazian. Two years later, in 1926, those three men sold the property to the Baikar Association, Inc. 

The Boston Globe, December 31, 1934, indicated this organization, which was founded and headquartered in Boston, had over 40,000 Armenian members across the country. It was said to be the "largest patriotic and educational Armenian society in the country," with 102 branches across the U.S.  The organization also published an Armenian newspaper, and it appears the printing occurred at the Shawmut Avenue property. In addition, the North Adams Transcript, June 8, 1934, indicated the property was occupied by the Armenian Democratic Liberal (ADL) party.

The Baikar Association owned this property for about 37 years, when, in July 1963, they sold the property to Victoria K. Matta, a widow, for $8,000. This will take on more importance later in this article.

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As I wrote previously, the earliest Syrian immigrants to Boston formed their own community, Little Syria, which was adjacent to and overlapped Chinatown. However, from 1920 to 1945, Syrian immigrants started branching out from Little Syria, settling in other sections of Boston, including the South End, especially around Shawmut Avenue. In these new neighborhoods, they opened Syrian businesses, from grocery stores to restaurant. 

For example, one of the important Syrian businesses was the Syrian Grocery Importing Co., at 270 Shawmut Avenue, which opened in 1940, and still is in operation today. There was even an earlier Syrian grocery store in this area, which existed at least since 1933, at 452 Shawmut Avenue, and was owned by Khorean Tchuljian. 

The first reference I found to the Sahara restaurant was an advertisement in the Boston Herald, June 4, 1965. The restaurant, located at 296 Shawmut Avenue, planned to open on Monday, June 7, and would serve "the finest in Syrian foods" as well as steaks & chops. On that same date, the Boston Traveler, June 4, 1965, mentioned the upcoming opening of Sam Khoury’s Sahara restaurant, where the feature of the house would be shish-ka-bab. Sam Khoury may have been the owner of the restaurant, though he was renting the space from the property owner, Victoria Matta.

As for its owner, Sam Khoury, there's an intriguing article about him fifteen years before the opening of the Sahara restaurant. The Boston Globe, May 4, 1950, reported on the arrest of two 14 year old boys who stole a number of items from one of the boys' homes. The items included a camera, silver set, radio, rifle, watch and two lamps. Samuel Khoury, age 26, of 293 Shawmut Avenue, was also arrested at this time. Samuel, a prospective bridegroom, was accused of buying the stolen items from the two boys, wanting to use the items to decorate his home for his new bride. Khoury admitted to being guilty of receiving stolen property and he was fined $100, received a suspended sentence of 4 months, and put on probation for a year.  

Several days after the restaurant's opening, the Boston Herald, June 11, 1965, briefly stated: “Fine Syrian foods are served at the Sahara Restaurant on Shawmut Avenue in Boston. While Shish-ka-bab is the gourmet delight here, you may also partake of their fabulous lamb delicacies if you’ve a mind to.”

A little more information was provided in the Boston Herald, July 9, 1965, noting: “Curried rice pilaf, various ka-bobs and wonderful lamb dishes are the order at the Sahara Restaurant in Boston. Wall to wall red carpeting adorns the floors, and the walls are a walnut paneling, making for a pleasant dining atmosphere.”

The Boston Herald, July 16, 1965, offered a new advertisement for the Sahara restaurant, with a pyramid and palm tree. 

Months later, the Boston Herald, November 12, 1965, noted that the Sahara was open until 3am each night, offering "shishkabobs," lamb dishes, and “tempting pastry.” 

There was another new advertisement in the Boston Record American, December 27, 1965, though it misspelled Sam Khoury's first name. The restaurant was open from 4pm-3am, and offered take-out too. The ad also mentioned the restaurant served Shish Kebab, Kibbi, Pilal, Steaks and Chops. 

It's curious that during this time, the Boston Globe didn't mention the Sahara restaurant. The restaurant apparently didn't advertise in the Globe, and the Globe didn't review the restaurant or even acknowledge  its existence. 

The most extensive newspaper article about the Sahara was in The Mass Media, February 28, 1972, a UMass Boston paper. This was essentially a restaurant review, but the article also needed editing as it had a number of mispellings. It began stating that the Sahara was a “Syrian-Lebanese restaurant, at 296 ½ Shawmut Ave. in the South End.” The article continued, “The décor was a kind of modern American tastless with Mediterranean overtones. It was generally clean and unoffensive. The service was efficient and friendly, yet there is always a good fifteen to twenty minite wait for your food after you have ordered.”

There was then descriptions of a number of dishes they sampled. They began with an appetizer of Hommus Bit Heeny, "mashed chick peas with taheeny and lemon juice." They described it as, “Well, it’s a paste in which you dip your unleven Syrian bread, top with an onion and sprinkle lemon juice on"; and noted, “Its really quite good, but it may take a bit or two before you decide this.”

For a main course, they tried the La’hm Mishwi Mushroom ($3.25), lamb chunks with charcoal broiled mushrooms served with rice pilaf. They thought it was excellent and “The meat, especially deserves a singular mention.” They also had Chicken & Hushwee, “The Queen of the Lebanese Dishes,” but thought it was “overated. Its slices of boned chicken, diced lamb meat, snoobar, and rice pilaf tended to be rather bland.”

The Wara Eneb ($2.40) were grape leaves stuffed with lamb, rice, spices, and cooked in lemon sauce, and found to be “a totally different gastronomical experience.” They also sampled the Flyflee Mishee ($2.40), green peppers stuffed with lamb, spices, cooked in tomatoe sauce. And the Mishee Malloof ($2.40), rolled cabbage was stuffed and cooked with the same concoction.

They concluded that, “The food at the Sahara is generally well prepared and tasty, but it is exotic, so if you don’t have much imagination are aren’t willing ti try something new, stay away, for this isn’t the place for you.”

Maybe the most intriguing part of the review though was some brief comments about the alleged owner of the restaurant. Previous information seemed to indicate that Sam Khoury was the owner, but it's very possible that there were multiple owners. The article claimed that the owner was an ex-belly dancer, who recently "traded in her pink Eldorado (complete with a fake velvet roof) for a larger baby blue Cadillac.” 

Unfortunately, the article didn't provide her name, making it more difficult to find any information about her. And this was the only article I found mentioning any such female owner. However, could the property owner, Victoria Matta, also have been an ex-belly dancer and a part-owner of the Sahara restaurant as well? In my initial article, I had very little information about Victoria, but with further research, I have found information, and it seems clear that Victoria was not a belly dancer. 

Victoria Matta was born September 1, 1914, in Wareham, Massachusetts, the daughter of Khalil Matta and Khola Mary Matta. Victoria was later married to James Negib Matta, and they had several children, including Charles J. Matta, who was born on March 22, 1939. Victoria died on May 6, 1972.

According to her obituary in the Boston Globe, May 7, 1972, Victoria Matta, of 93 Bowdoin Street, Dorchester, had been the president of the defunct Vicki Sports Wear Co. of Boston. She had also been a member of and past president of the Beccharre Club, and a benefactor of the Our Lady of the Cedars of Lebanon Church, Jamaica Plain. She left behind four sons and two daughters.

Some time later in 1972, the Sahara restaurant closed, having been open for only eight years, and I wasn't able to find any definitive information as for the reasons for its closure. One possibility is that Khoury had issues with the new property owner, who purchased the spot in January 1972. Victoria Matta sold the property to Charles J. Matta, her 32-year old son, for $6,307, the amount of the outstanding mortgage. 

However, losing the Sahara didn't prevent Khoury's desire to be involved in the restaurant industry.  He had plans to open another restaurant, down the street from the original location, and call it The New Sahara. 

After the Sahara restaurant closed, the Boston Globe, July 8, 1973, noted that Samuel was now a principal in the Kenwood Development Co., developers of a property site at Dwight Street and Shawmut Avenue. The development was supposed to include ten one-bedroom units, 6 two-bedroom units, and a 218 seat restaurant, The New Sahara. Samuel was still living at 293 Shawmut Avenue and was noted as the former owner of the Sahara restaurant. However, the plans for The New Sahara never came to fruition. Another unfortunate situation. 

Once the Sahara closed, the new property owner, Charles Matta decided he wanted to operate a restaurant. In October 1972, Matta applied for a license license for that location, and it's unclear whether the new owner was going to keep the name of the Sahara or change it to something else. This also seems to indicate that the Sahara restaurant might not have previously had a liquor license, as if so, Matta would have just applied for a transfer of their licenses rather than making an entirely new application. 

It seems that Matta received an initial denial, as he had to approach the Board of Appeals in January 1973, seeking an alcohol license as well as a waiver of the requirement for so much off-street parking. I couldn't locate the results of this appeal but as no new restaurant ever arose from that spot, it seems likely Matta was unable to receive the license he desired. 

Matta held onto the property for a few years, doing nothing with the building, and in July 1975, he made Fred T. Mather, Sr. a tenant in common for $35,000. A year later, Matta and Mather sold their interests in this property to Margaret Mansour for $42,000. And the Mansour family continues to own this property to the present day.

Margaret was born in Boston and married Maurice Mansour, from Lebanon, around 1952. They eventually had four children George, Montgomery, Ramon and Joseph. In 1975, the Mansour purchased the Syrian Grocery Importing Co., which the family still owns and operates. Unfortunately, George died of cancer around 1987, Margaret died about ten years later, and Maurice died in 2003. The Mansour family created the MMM Realty Trust in May 1998, incorporating their real estate holdings, including 296 1/2 Shawmut Avenue, and eventually Ramon Mansour became the Trustee of this Trust. 

During the last twenty years, there have been concerns about the Sahara restaurant building, many considering it abandoned, an eyesore, and in need of renovation or demolition. The Boston Globe, October 24, 2004, published an article entitled, That Eyesore on the Corner Draws Curiosity—and Concern. The article claimed “..there’s little historical record left of the Sahara restaurant,…” and that it closed in 1970, though the evidence is clear it remained open until 1972.

The article then mentioned that the Mansour family had once considered moving their grocery store to the Sahara restaurant spot but changed their minds. The family had still been considering what to do with the property, and it was noted that some people wanted to purchase the property to open a restaurant. In a brief follow-up, the Boston Globe, October 16, 2005, noted that the Mansour's were using the Sahara property for storage. And in the Boston Globe, October 23, 2005, the Director of the Department of Neighborhood Development evidenced hope that the Mansours would do something with the building.  

Fourteen years later, the Boston Globe, June 23, 2019, continued to voice concerns about the Sahara property, and stated that the three Mansour brothers still lacked any plans about what to do with it. The building remained as is, largely abandoned, though with its iconic sign still in place. 

For 44 years, the Mansour family has done nothing with the Sahara restaurant property except for use it for storage. There are rumors that contentious family disagreements over what to do with the real estate may be part of the reason the building has remained idle. It's certainly a valuable piece of property and could easily be sold for quite a significant amount. According to the City of Boston, the property was assessed in 2019 at $1,487,000. In comparison, in 1985, the property was assessed at only $59,300.

As the three Mansour brothers get older, the youngest currently being around 58 years old, maybe it will be the next generation that actually does something with the building. It certainly would be great to see a new Syrian restaurant at that location, though any change would probably be good for the neighborhood.

For now, the Sahara restaurant sign remains merely a glimpse into the past, a look back over 50 years ago. 

(Updated as of January 2, 2023)

Chinatown, Little Syria & Its Restaurants (Part 15)

Boston's Chinatown was never a homogenous neighborhood, and other peoples both worked and resided in this area. For example, the Boston Globe, May 5, 1903, mentioned that besides the Chinese, there were also Greeks, Italians, Armenians, Syrians, Egyptians, and Hungarians in Chinatown. During the 19th and early 20th centuries, one of the largest groups that shared parts of Chinatown were the Syrians. 

The Syrians, fleeing Turkish rule, started arriving in Boston around 1888-1890, and generally all settled together in a neighborhood which would eventually be known as "Little Syria." There was plenty of overlap with Chinatown, as Syrians worked and resided on Hudson Street, Harrison Avenue, Beach Street, Oxford Street and more. During these early years, it was claimed that the Syrian population in Boston was the second largest settlement of Syrians in the U.S., with New York City being the first. 

Oliver Place, off of Essex Street, was sometimes said to be the heart of Little Syria, yet this was also the street where some of the first Chinese settled in Boston. In 1980, Oliver Place was renamed Ping On Alley, the "Alley of Peace and Security," indicative of Boston's early Chinese immigrants who first lived there. Unlike Chinatown though, Little Syria, during its first forty years, didn't become a tourist attraction. That might have partially been by design, that the Syrian community didn't actively seek visitors to their neighborhood. 

During this time, there would only be a handful of Syrian restaurants in Boston, and they received little attention from local newspapers. The names of these restaurants were generally not mentioned, and sometimes even their addresses weren't even provided. Unlike the Chinese, Syrians didn't need to rely on restaurants for employment which is probably a reason why so few Syrian restaurants existed during this time period. 

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The first newspaper reference to Little Syria that I located was in the Boston Herald, August 11, 1896. The article stated, “Little Syria, which is the name which Oliver place, off Essex street, is now familiarly called, was probably one of the dirtiest, hottest, noisiest spots to be found in the city during the afternoon and evening.” Not a flattering picture by any means, and much may be due to the poverty of the neighborhood at that time. The article also noted that the "king" of the Syrian colony in Boston was Hannibal, whose first name is John in English. I wasn't able to find any more information about Hannibal, and he might not have remained in Boston too long. 

 
Three years later, there was a rather lengthy article in the Boston Herald, July 18, 1899, titled As Cooked in Syria. This was the first reference to a Syrian restaurant in Boston, and its exact address and name weren't provided. If you wanted to dine there, you would have had to visit Little Syria and asked around for directions. The article was part restaurant review and part cooking class, and it generally very complimentary as to Syrian cuisine. The reporter was also adventurous, apparently tasting everything that was offered, albeit after an initial refusal on one dish to which he later relented. 

While dining at this Syrian restaurant, the reported was accompanied by "Rev. Archimandrite Raphael, the missionary of the holy Russian synod, sent to American by the Czar to minister to the faithful.” Why they ate together isn't explained in the article. The reported mentioned that only about half a dozen people, aside from the Syrians, knew of this restaurant. “It is in a basement on a thoroughfare which runs parallel to Oxford street, on the east side of Chinatown,..” He also noted,  “There is no sign above the door, and no slumming parties, nor anybody else, have been there yet.” One of Boston's true hidden restaurants. 

He then positively noted that “The hospitality of the Syrians is of the open-handed sort, and they relax at table with the abandon of the Latin races.” At the restaurant, “..the table groaned in regular ‘old homestead’ style with a variety of Syrian dishes, most uncouth in appearance, entirely unrecognizable even to eyes that had looked upon Chinese and Italian concoctions, but found to be most delicious.”  Not only did the chef prepare each dish, but he also “... gave a detailed account of the manner of its cooking, so that feminine readers of The Herald who are looking for something new for their tables may experiment successfully.” 

 
Initially, the reporter was offered a bowl of cucumbers & milk, which he initially declined as the idea didn't sound appealing to him. The Rev. then described the dish in more detail, noting that the milk was already sour and had been boiled, becoming somewhat like Dutch cheese. The cucumbers were sliced lengthwise and swam in the boiled milk, which was sprinkled with salt. The reporter was persuaded to sample them and actually found them appetizing.

The article then touched on a variety of other dishes experienced by the reporter, or related to him by the chef. Koosa, which is very common in Syrian households, uses an ordinary Syrian squash, which resembles a cucumber though it's a little larger in diameter. The restaurant imported their squashes from Syria. To prepare this dish, “First remove the inside pulp of the squash, then mix equal quantities of rice and chopped meat, flavored to suit. Stuff the squash with this mixture and bake for an hour in an open pan, the squash being half covered with water.” It's then served on a flat platter, and each person can take a whole squash on their plate. It should be soft and juicy.

 

Though the reporter compared Yabrak to a croquette, its essentially stuffed grape leaves, using a mixture of rice and chopped meat, a foundation of many Syrian dishes. The meat could be beef or lamb, or any solid, clear meat, free from gristle. The rice and meat should be stiff and shaped into cigar-shaped portions, and then the grape leaves rightly wrapped around the mixture. Then,“Take an open pan, like that used to bake cake, and cover the bottom with half an inch of water, into which a tomato, or something sour, like a lemon, has been cut. A slice or two of onion may be added. Place the prepared grape leaf covered portions in the pan, cover over the top of the pan and and bake in the oven for an hour.” Syrians eat this dish with their fingers, and the reporter described it as “One gets something between a lettuce salad and a rice pudding.”

 
Baked Kingfish is a favorite way to begin a Syrian dinner, and the head and tail remain though the outer skin is removed. It will be stuffed with the usual rice and chopped meat, or anything else that the chef might decide. “The fish should be placed in a baking tin with a dressing of olive oil, and baked until it is cooked through, or it may be broiled on top of the stove and before serving basted with olive oil and seasoned to taste.” The reported noted that “The meat is beautifully white and tender.” He also mentioned that Syrians typically pick the meat off the bones with their fingers from the large serving platter.

 
There was a dish of Roast lamb & tomato sauce, where the lamb was sliced and the sauce was prepared in the usual way, though it would be garnished with sliced cucumbers or lettuce. There was also a dish of Lentils, which were fried with onions in oil. Some chopped meat was also roasted with some onions and garlic, whole some rice was prepared too. Then, an equal mix of lentils, meat and rice were baked. It was said to be "... a healthful and strengthening dish, which may be eaten with satisfaction by men doing the hardest kind of manual work.”

Next up was Kubbe, which was noted as, “This is a substantial dish, having an appearance, when served, like scorched brown bread marked off into inch cubes.” To prepared this dish, “First take a piece of roast beef, clear of fat and gristle, and chop it fine with parsley and onions, adding a tomato, also to be chopped, if desired. Mix with an equal amount of cracked wheat and add a handful of nuts. Spread the mixture out into a flat pan 1 ½ inches deep, and mark off into squares. It should be baked until the top crust is very brown and hard for a depth of about an eighth of an inch.” This is a very common dish found at Syrian dinners.

Syrian bread was mentioned to be entirely different in form from the common kind Americans are used too, although it is mixed, raised and baked in the same way, using the same common wheat flour. Before baking, it's rolled into round cakes, no thicker than flapjacks, and from 8-20 inches in diameter. It is then baked long enough to have little burned spots on it. Each round sheet of bread is porous but damper and tougher than the common loaf bread. “The Syrian uses one of the cakes for a napkin at table until he has stripped it and eaten it, when he reaches for another.” Eating your "napkin" certainly cuts down on the amount of paper waste.

Curiously, the reporter asked the chef if they had anything like New England donuts in Syria. The chef stated that they did, however they were rare, and generally only eaten for a few days after Christmas, during the time when Jesus was baptized. Though the dough for their donuts is basically the same as for American donuts, Syrians twist the dough into fantastic shapes and add pine nuts. “You will find these pine nuts in a great many Syrian fancy dishes. We are great lovers of nuts and sweet things.” 

Continuing on a sweet vein, they have a version of Ice Cream, though it doesn't actually contain any cream. They mix milk and cornstarch to give it proper consistency, flavoring it with an imported extract, known as salub, which gives it flavors of almond and vanilla, without being sweet. Watermelon slices are a common fruit dessert. Though pies are largely unknown in Syria, they do make a common pudding from cornstarch with the addition of plenty of sugar and nuts.

As for beverages, some Syrian coffee was served, and mentioned to have a flavor all its own, which was due to manner of cooking and not the type of coffee. They used any type of coffee but then turned it into a powder, preparing the powder with boiling water in the usual manner. Plus, they added a few drops of a liquid something like rosewater except the taste was a trifle bitter. Allegedly, there wasn't an English translation for the Arabic term for this ingredient. In addition, sugar was usually added into the pot, no there was no need to put it into your cup.

 

Another beverage was Matzoon, "..a prized drink somewhat like koumyss,.." It's creation seems to be partially an enigma as “The source of matzoon seemed to be a mystery to all at the table.” To make matzoon, you always need some to make more. You take ordinary milk and heat it almost to boiling on the stove. You then add a cupful of matzoon to the milk, cover the dish and set it away in a warm place for 5-6 hours, when the whole liquid will be matzoon. “It is healthful and invigorating and extremely appetizing when served cold. Some of the drug stores serve it from soda fountains.” 

The article also added some general comments about the Syrian community in Boston, such as noting there were about 500 Syrians in the community.  They import a great deal of lace from Syria and although they must pay a duty of 65%, they still are able to sell it from 15-60 cents a yard. The Syrian men “..are singularly placid and peaceful in disposition. They are industrious and frugal, and their women are handsome and vivacious.” Although the men enjoying imbibing plenty of wine and beer, there is little or no drunkenness among them. 

This was certainly a very positive look at Little Syria, though the lack of identifying information for the restaurant did reduce some of its value. However, maybe the Syrians weren't looking for outsiders to visit their restaurant, especially if they didn't even have a sign outside. 

The Twentieth Annual Report of the Associated Charities of Boston (November 1899) provided more details on the Syrians in Boston, noting that Syrians began coming to this country about 12 years ago. Most of the Syrians who first came to Boston were peddlers, who sell in nearly all of the Boston suburbs, and they were often successful, sending money back home to Syria. Currently, there were about 500 Syrians in Boston, almost all in Little Syria.

The report stated, “It is the poor and ignorant who come here. Few speak English, still fewer read or write it.” It continued, “These persons are said to have very little idea of truth, to consider lying a legitimate method of doing business.” Many Syrians live on Oliver Place, and on August 4, 1898, the district inspector of the Board of Health made a report stating, “Oliver Place is frequently in a filthy and offensive condition, and receives no care except that a tenant may sweep up occasionally. It should be paved with granite blocks and cleaned regularly.” 

The next reference to a Syrian eatery in Boston was in December 1900. The Boston Globe, December 15, 1900, the Boston Herald, December 16, 1900, and the Springfield Republican, December 18, 1900, also mentioned the existence of a Syrian café at 73 ½ Beach Street, which would be within Chinatown. The café was owned by a husband and wife, Kallian and Nahamie Naszar, and it was said to be somewhat of a headquarters for the local Syrians. As a café, it was probably a more casual spot, possibly for a coffee and maybe some sweets. Unfortunately, few details of this were provided.

There was another lengthy article in the Boston Herald, May 1, 1901, titled Syrians Settled in Boston Have Brought With Them Some of the Strange Customs and Ceremonies Prevailing About Mt. Lebanon. The article noted, “In a very narrow alleyway, directly in the rear of that part of Boston known as Chinatown, there lives a colony of swarthy people who have brought all their traditional customs with them from their fatherland, and who live there in their own way, unconscious and unconcerned regarding the manners of the Americans, and who, in their peculiar style, live happily and naturally, without interference and without interruptions from the Americans, who do not understand their mannerisms and peculiar ideas of comfort.”

In only two years, the population of Syrians in Boston, in Little Syria, had tripled, to about 1500 people, nearly all who can speak English. However, the reported mentioned having some difficulty gaining information for his article, as the people are suspicious of reporters, and “For the Syrians do not enjoy having inquisitive people in their midst.” The reporter stated that “In Edgerly place, where the most of these people live, is one of the most picturesque places in Boston.”

The "mayor" of Little Syria was Mallham Kadra, who came to the U.S. about 10 years ago, settling in Boston, and he was one of the first Syrians to reside here. He worked as a court interpreter for a number of years and also once owned a notion store, controlling the business in that neighborhood. 

It was also mentioned that many Syrian women made a living as peddlers, selling smallwares from house to house. They would travel with a huge bag or basket, carrying combs, small mirrors and other fancy goods. If they couldn't sell you something, they would then offer to tell your fortune for a quarter.

Sundays were major social occasions for the Syrians, and some of their people who lived outside of Boston would come into the city for the day. Some of the local Syrians lived on Oxford Street, which is within Chinatown. It was noted that the relaxing Syrian men drank Arak (also spelled Arrack) together. Finally, there were some details of a typical Syrian wedding.

The Boston Herald, April 28, 1902, provided a brief description of the Syrian quarter, noting it included “... Beach, Hudson and Kneeland street and Oliver place.” There was also a little Greek church on Oxford street, in the Chinatown region.  

The primary problem involving the Syrians seemed to fighting, and several incidents were reported during the next few years. For example, the Boston Post, August 11, 1902, in an article titled “Greeks and Syrians Fight in Chinatown,” reported on a armed battle between Greeks met Syrians, motivated over a woman, a “modern Helen of Troy." The woman in question, Sadie Brusse, left Dedham to visit her friend Mollie Marceda at 7 ½ Olive Place. The Greeks first tried to court Sadie and then the Syrians tried to steal away her attentions. 

Eventually, this led to a group of armed Greeks to go to the Oliver address, where they found Syrians “holding high carnival.” The Syrians attempted to barricade the door against the Greeks, but they forced their way inside. A policeman was called, and with the use of his club, was able to quell the fighting although none of the people involved claimed to speak English.  

A year later, there was another large battle, this time between the Syrians and Chinese. On May 18, 1903, three newspapers, including the Boston Globe, Boston Herald, and Boston Journal, reported on this matter, and there were some differences in their versions. The Boston Journal mentioned that Little Syria and Chinatown have a common ground in Oxford Street, and there are frequently clashes on Sundays when some Syrians poke fun at the Chinese. On the day in question, this type of clash occurred once again. 

A group of Syrians made fun of some Chinese, alternatively reported as Chin Hoy of Oxford Street or members of the Yee family. Whoever the target, one of the insulted Chinese then slapped one of the Syrians. The versions then vary as to what happened next. The Boston Globe stated that after being slapped, the Syrian went to get more of his friends. However, when they returned to the Chinese home, the victim was brandishing a long knife and chased the Syrians away.  

The Boston Herald, stated that after the slap, the Syrians went after the Chinese man, who ran inside and came out with a long knife. The Syrians fled, and the armed Chinese chased the Syrian he had slapped, although he never caught him. And the Boston Journal mentioned that after a member of the Yee family slapped a Syrian, he was struck back. So, another Mr. Yee, seeing his cousin struck, ran inside, grabbed a knife and then chased the Syrians away.

The Syrians also fought among each other. The Boston Globe, August 30, 1903, briefly reported that two Syrians fought each other, and one cut the other with a knife. The knife wielder was subsequently arrested.

The Boston Herald, August 30, 1903, published an article entitled, Among the Boston Syrians. Peculiar Customs of the Race. There was an initial mention of a Syrian grocery store, where salted watermelon seeds, salted peas and nuts were available. Then, there was mention of a Syrian restaurant, in the rear room of a basement, which might be the same restaurant as mentioned earlier in the Boston Herald, July 18, 1899. It was also noted the restaurant looked out into a small yard, where Syrians gathered, to smoke their pipes, drink coffee and play an intricate game with checkers. Their coffee was very strong, and served in tiny cups resembling a giant thimble. 

At the restaurant, some visitors enjoyed Koobeh, a strange compound of chopped lamb, many spicy ingredients and some grainlike substance. It was all made into a cake and then fried. They also enjoyed some Syrian bread. They were a bit shocked at first when they didn't receive forks or knives, and had to eat with they hands. For a second course, they were served soft figs, boiled in molasses, and pistachio nuts.

The article also mentioned that “Syrians are noticeably hospitable, and even when a casual strange calls upon one of them sweetmeats are offered, and always accepted, as it would be an unpardonable act of rudeness to refuse then.” In addition, it was stated that it had only been within a few years that the Syrians, whose population in Boston was now about 3,000, had their own neighborhood. Once again, the Syrian population had doubled in two years. It was said that the Syrians came to the U.S. to escape Turkish rule and earn a living. 

There was also a few comments about arrack, their universal drink, which is stronger than brandy. They often drink it with their meals, though it is much diluted by water and made excessively sweet. It was also noted that intoxication among Syrians is is almost unknown, a comment which was echoed in a previous newspaper article. 

A gamboling raid! Both the Boston Herald, August 22, 1904, and Boston Post, August 22, 1904 reported on a gambling raid at a Harrison Avenue address, arresting about seven people. However, their versions are somewhat different. The Herald stated they arrested seven Syrians and Armenians while the Post stated there were 7 Syrians, Armenians, Greeks and Turks. The Herald also stated the raid took place in the rear of a candy store at 11 Harrison Avenue while the Post reported the raid occurred at a Syrian restaurant at 122 Harrison Avenue. If there was a Syrian restaurant at that address, it might have been the third such place in Little Syria. 

Another battle in Little Syria! The Boston Journal, April 24, 1911, reported that on Sunday, Syrian Easter, there was a free for all fight, with knives, brass knuckles and chair legs, on Oxford Street. When the police arrived, found one man stabbed twice, another unconscious from brass knuckles, and a third man with two black eyes. Joseph Scahobany, of 7 Hudson Street, was arrested for stabbing of Thomas George, of 26 Oxford Street. Mohammed Slimon, of 36 Oxford Street, was charged with assault and battery on Moren George, of 18 Albany St.

The Boston Globe, April 24, 1911, had a slightly different version, stated that the fight occurred at a Syrian restaurant located on the second floor of 36 Oxford Street. The restaurant was owned by Mohammed Sliman, age 27. This might have been the fourth Syrian restaurant in this neighborhood. 

The Syrian population in Boston. The Boston Journal, May 6, 1913, reported that there were now about 200,000 Syrians in the U.S., with about 5000 residing in Greater Boston, and 2000 of them living within Little Syria. They now live on Hudson, Albany, Kneeland, Tyler, Edinburgh, Oxford and Beech Streets, even starting to displace the Chinese from Harrison Avenue and Oxford Streets. Most of the new Syrian immigrants were peddlers, and the majority of Syrians in Boston belonged to the Greek Orthodox faith. Finally, it was mentioned that there was a small school on Hudson Street where Syrian reading and writing was taught to children. 

There was a fire in Little Syria. The Boston Herald, February 12, 1917, stated that there was a fire, of unknown origin, at 4 Hudson Street, an address tased by Richard Maloof who ran a grocery store in the basement. A couple hundred Chinese came out to watch the fire. Only a few hundred dollars of damage were done to the property. 

The New England Business Directory (1920) briefly mentioned there was a Syrian Restaurant at 81 Beach Street. This appears to be another new Syrian restaurant. 

As the Chinese were known for opium, it seems the Syrians were becoming known for hasheesh. The Boston Herald, May 9, 1922, reported that the police had recently learned that large quantities of cannabis indica, commonly known as hasheesh, were being sold in Boston. It was alleged that hasheesh parties, drug orgies, were being held by Syrians on Hudson Street. The police eventually made an undercover buy and arrested Abdullah Dikmak, of 133 Hudson Street. The drug was inside small canvas bags and lead-sealed with Syrian insignia. The sellers were getting $60-$200 a pound for the drug, although the "pound" packages actually only held 7 ounces.  

There was a brief mention of a Syrian restaurant on Beach Street in the Boston Herald, May 9, 1924. This might refer to the Syrian cafe previously mentioned or the place at 81 Beach Street. 

In another brief mention, the Boston Globe, June 6, 1925, noted there were three Syrian storekeepers in Chinatown, and there were also about 2000 children in the district. 

Tong War fears! The Boston Globe, September 14, 1925 stated that Chinatown and Little Syria were worried about recent Tong violence, with some families moving away due to fear.  The next day, the Boston Globe, September 15, 1925, described a protest by 9 Syrian women, large property owners in Little Syria. The recent Tong shootings had hurt their business, and their children were afraid to go to school as they had to walk through Chinatown. There were also worries that the Syrian men might try to take action into their own hands. 

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This has been a glimpse into the origins of Little Syria and the several Syrian restaurants which opened during the first forty years of its existence. Please note also that this is a work in progress, that additional research is warranted, hoping to find more details about these early restaurants. 

A History of Boston's Chinatown and Its Restaurants: 

Check out Part 1, covering the 18th & 19th centuries
Check out Part 2, covering the years 1901-1920
Check out Part 3, covering the 1920s.

Check out Part 4, covering 1930-1959

Check out Part 5, covering the 1960s
Check out Part 6, the tale of Ruby Foo

Check out Part 7, the tale of Anita Chue
Check out Part 8, the tale of Mary Yick
Check out Part 9, a Deeper Look into Two Restaurants

Check out Part 10: Sam Wah Kee: From Chinatown's Most Wealthy Merchant to Wanted Fugitive

Check out Part 11: An Early History of Chinese Herbalists in Boston

Check out Part 12: Dr. Ensang Chang: Boston's First Chinese Licensed Physician 

Check out Part 13: A Historic Look at Chinese New Year in Boston (1870-1890)

Check out Part 14: An Early History of Christmas in Chinatown

Check out Part 16: The Chinese Shoe Makers of North Adams

And also see my Compilation Post, with links to my additional articles about Chinese restaurants, outside Boston and in Connecticut, as well as a number of related matters.