Pinoy Kabayan: First Impressions of the Only Filipino Restaurant in Boston

Last week, as I spent much of Tuesday in Boston, I made plans to have dinner at Pinoy Kabayan, the only Filipino restaurant in Boston, which opened about a year ago. Outside of Boston, there’s also Bright Light, a Filipino & Jamaican restaurant in Quincy, and Johnny Boy, a Filipino Sandwich Pop-Up in Somerville. Why aren't there more Filipino restaurants in the Boston+ area? 

Back in 2011, I wrote about the dearth of Filipino restaurants across the country. There was only one Filipino restaurant near Boston, a place in Quincy. And across the country, there were less than 500 Filipino restaurants, and in comparison, there were over 43,000 Chinese restaurants. As of 2023, there were about 1400 Filipino restaurants in the U.S., nearly tripling in number in about 12 years. In comparison, there were over 45,000 Chinese restaurants. Population-wise, there are about 5.4 Million Chinese in the U.S. and 4.2 Million Filipinos, so there definitely should be far more Filipino restaurants in this country. 

Why are there so few Filipino restaurants in the U.S.? There are many theories but no definitive conclusions. Since 2012, in my annual Rant: Forget Useless Predictions, I have often called for More Filipino Restaurants & Dishes. I don't have much experience with Filipino cuisine, but I have greatly enjoyed what I have previously eaten. So, it was also helpful that I dined at Pinoy Kabayan with a good friend of Filipino ancestry, to assist me in navigating the menus.

Pinoy Kabayan is owned by Janeth Millare Javier and Reynaldo Javier, both from the Philippines. Janeth spoke to us about the restaurant and their food, and she was personable and passionate. The fast-casual restaurant is primarily take-out, but there's also seating for about 16 people.  

There are roughly two levels to the menu offerings, the first being the dishes which are usually always available, and then some more specialty dishes which are offered only a different times. The first level menu includes a few Appetizers (Lumpia, Fish Ball, & Kikiam), Salads (Atchara & House Salad), Ulam/Entrees (Adobo, Mechado, Tocino, Tapa, & Longganisa), and Kanin at Pancit/Rice & Noodles (Kanin, Sinangag, Steamed Veggies, & Pancit Guisado). 

They also serve a few Breakfast dishes all-day, including Tap-Si-Log, Long-Si-Log, To-Si-Log, and Spam-Si-Log. These are portmanteaus for the components of each of the dishes, which include a protein, sinangag (garlic fried rice), and itlog (fried egg). 

These are all dishes which most food lovers would enjoy, very approachable Filipino dishes to give people an insight into the delights of Filipino cuisine. And it certainly makes me wonder once again why there aren't more Filipino restaurants in the Boston+ area. 

In a chiller unit, you'll find more Filipino dishes, those which aren't always available, and which can be purchased for take-out, although they would warm them up for you if you decide to dine there. You can check out their Facebook and Instagram pages for info about special Filipino dishes that are available for a limited time. 

Some of these dishes may be for more adventurous palates, but are worth sampling. Other dishes would appeal once again to most food lovers. You might find Lechon Paksiw, pork stewed in vinegar and aromatics, or Pork Humba, braised pork belly in a sweet and salty sauce. Or Galonggong, fried Mackarel Scad that's simply seasoned. I tried the Dinuguan from this chiller case, which I'll describe shortly. 

The meal began with some Lumpia Shanghai (4 pieces $6, 6 for $9, 12 for $15), which are thin, fried spring rolls with pork and veggies. The pastry skins for the lumpia were very thin and crunchy, and the savory filling was tasty, spiced nicely. In the Philippines, they make many different types of Lumpia, including some dessert versions. These Lumpia didn't come with a specific sauce, but at the table was a selection of condiments. 

One of those condiments is Banana Sauce, also called Banana Ketchup, which was invented in 1942 by a Filipina food technologist, Maria Y. Orosa. Due to World War II, there was a shortage of tomatoes but there still were many bananas, so this sauce was created to fill the need for ketchup. In general, banana sauce is made from bananas, sugar, vinegar, and spices. It may also be dyed red to resemble tomato-based ketchup. Lumpia are sometimes dipped in banana sauce, and I tried some. It was a mild flavored ketchup, not overly sweet, and did go well with the lumpia.

Each Ulam (Entree) is $15-$16 (Ala carte) or available as a Combo Meal, with rice or noodles & steamed veggies, for $14.50-$16.50. You can also get a Combo Meal with 2 entrees for $18.50-$22.50. I opted for the Combo with 2 entrees, and I chose the Tocino and Tapa, along with Sinangag. It was a hearty plate of food, and overall it was delicious and reasonably priced. 

The Tocino (sweet cured chicken or pork--and I opted for the pork) is from a Spanish word for "bacon." Traditionally, the dish is made from pork shoulder or pork belly, which is cured and then marinated in spices and sauces, commonly including pineapple juice. I enjoyed the sweet and tangy flavor of these tender pork slices, which reminded me in some respects to the boneless spare ribs you get in some Chinese restaurants. 

The Tapa is a Filipino jerky, which can be made from made different meats or fish, although the restaurant makes it as a Beef version. This beef was also tender, with a more savory taste of spices. It's definitely not as dry and chewy as most American jerky of which you might be familiar.  

For my side, I chose Sinangag, the garlic fried rice, which is basically made only with garlic, and topped with some scallions. It tasted nice and was a fine accompaniment to the entries, especially the Dinuguan. 

My dining companion ordered the Sinigang, a sour and savory soup, often flavored with tamarind. It is commonly prepared with pork, fish, or shrimp although the above version is made with just vegetables. I tasted the broth which was pleasantly sour, but balanced with savory notes too.

Then we come to the Dinuguan, and the owner, Janeth, was an initially a little hesitant about serving it to me. A rough translation of "Dinuguan" is "bloody soup or stew," and it's commonly made with pork, offal and pork blood. The use of offal and pork blood would obviously turn off many people who aren't familiar with such dishes, or who don't have an adventurous palate. For myself, I've enjoyed other blood-based dishes before, such as Spanish Morcilla, blood sausage, so I was willing to try the Dinuguan.  

I spooned some of the Dinuguan atop my garlic rice, and it was a delicious combo. The Dinuguan was hearty, with pieces of tender pork and an intriguing, thick sauce, nicely spiced, with plenty of umami and a touch of tartness. If you didn't know it was made with blood, you probably wouldn't guess it from the taste alone. This is a dish that I'd order again and I'd recommend my friends with adventurous palates to give it a try.   

I can't wait to return to Pinoy Kabayan to sample more of their menu, and I would strongly recommend it to all of my readers. The food is delicious, hearty, reasonably priced, and it's great to experience Filipino cuisine, which is so rare in this area. 

Some Balut History: Duck Eggs to Quail Eggs

Balut! For many non-Asian Americans, your sole experience with Balut might have been seeing it eaten on such reality shows as Fear Factor and Survivor.  If so, you probably have a negative view of this delicacy, as it was generally presented as something gross or disgusting to eat. Its cultural significance wasn't sufficiently discussed and although it might seem unusual, many Asians thoroughly enjoy this dish. 

On my recent journey to southern Vermont, I, and a few of my friends, had the opportunity to try Quail Balut, and we all did so. It actually was tasty and I suspect many more people would enjoy it, if they pushed aside their pre-conceptions and tried it. 

I'll discuss my own Balut experience further in another article tomorrow, but now, I want to discuss the idea of Balut and then provide a history of Balut mentions in U.S. newspapers, to learn how Americans have viewed it over the years. 

Balut is basically an unhatched egg, which contains an embryo, and is most often a duck egg. It's thought that it might have originated in China, where it traveled to the Philippines around the later part of the 19th century. In the Philippines, it acquired its name, Balut, and primary fame, although it's also found in a number of other Asian nations, from Cambodia to Vietnam. It's name, balut, .roughly translates as “wrapped”, referring to how the embryo is commonly wrapped in a whitish covering. 

Duck eggs are preferred for Balut as they have a stronger shell and shell membrane, much better than chicken eggs. The eggs are typically incubated for about 16-18 days, when the embryo is not yet fully developed. The longer the incubation period, the more developed the embryo so the bones and beak in older eggs might be crunchier. 

In the Philippines,  it's traditionally a street food, sold by vendors mainly during the evening, until dawn, and they often shout out an exaggerated "Balut" to draw in customers. The eggs are boiled and you're supposed to eat it out of the shell. First, you break open a small opening at the top of the egg and then drink the "broth" or "soup." Then, you crack the rest of the shell open and eat the embryo and yolk, often putting maybe a little salt or vinegar atop it. There is also a tiny part called the bato, or rock, attached to the embryo and yolk, which most people don't consume as it can be tough and difficult to eat. 

In Vietnam, they enjoy Balut as well and refer to is as trứng vịt lộn or hột vịt lộn, which roughly translate as “duck egg” or “duck flavor,” They commonly eat it with salt, pepper, and a side of rau răm, a Vietnamese green that resembles cilantro in some ways. The Vietnamese also enjoy Balut made from quail eggs, although duck eggs receive the vast majority of attention. 

Let's explore how the U.S. has perceived Balut over the years in the newspapers.

One of the first American newspaper references to Balut was in the Sioux City Journal (IA), June 6, 1910, in an article about Manila, Philippines. It stated, “As we passed out we noticed the refreshment vendors that lined the path to the street car, and especially the women by the score, who were selling eggs. We supposed they were ordinary boiled eggs, but we rode back to town by choice in a second class car with the natives and discovered our mistake. It seems the Filpinos take the eggs from under a hen or duck just before they are ready to hatch and boil them. They are called ‘balut,’ and form the great Filipino delicacy, the man on the seat next to me, who was contentedly eating one, informing me that six or eight would be a fair allowance for a man.” 

This is generally how many early newspaper references to Balut were presented, in travel accounts by those visiting the Philippines. It was seen as something exotic, a strange delicacy loved by Filipinos. And as we see, Balut has been known to Americans for over a hundred years. 

In the Lexington Herald (KY), February 24, 1919, there was a brief item about Balut, noting, “Over in the Philippine Islands the refreshment and lunch stands sell baluts as a great delicacy. Of course, the American reader never heard of a balut which looks like a hard boiled duck egg. However, these eggs have been boiled after the eggs have been incubated for 19 days. These cooked, unhatched, young ducks have a very agreeable flavor and are eagerly bought by the Filipinos.” 

This article was repeated in numerous other newspapers across the country, presenting one of the first Balut references that many Americans might have experienced. Although the idea of Balut might not have sounded palatable to Americans, it was presented in a positive manner so it might have intrigued some. 

The New Castle News (PA), April 24, 1924, presented an article titled, Half-Hatched Egg Filipino Delicacy. The article stated, “Baluts are half-hatched ducks’ eggs. They are sold by itinerant venders and are considered a great delicacy. The town of Pateros, near Manila, is engaged exclusively in the ‘balut’ industry.” Again, the article wasn't negative, although many Americans might have been squeamish about a half-hatched egg. 

The article then continued, quoting President Camilo Osias, of the National University, “Some foreigners laugh at baluts. Ignorant folks! They don’t know what they’re talking about. We, whose tastes have been educated, know better. Hermetically sealed, it is hygenic. The most perfect, and most complete, food packed in a small space—that is balut. It has soup, it has egg, it has meat, and it has bread. The balut makes a complete meal." More positivity.

There are two types of Balut, which were described in the Honolulu Star-Bulletin (HI), June 11, 1931, reprinting a clipping from a Manila newspaper. “There are two kinds of balut—The hairy one—And the juicy, cheesy brand. There are persons who are not particular as to what kind of balut they get, so long as they do not miss the chick either full-grown or half-grown. But the great majority of customers demand the cheesy brand, with the chick just about taking form, and well covered with a whitish substance that hides the feathers.” The cheesy type would likely be more amenable to non-Asians, who have never tried Balut. 

There was a brief mention in the Tucson Citizen (AZ), July 14, 1934, which printed, “...balut, a favored tid-bit of the Filipino which is a cross between a ten-year-old egg and a duckling. Duck eggs incubated for the hatching point are boiled and then laid away to age until mature enough for sale. They do not have an offensive odor, but most of us prefer younger eggs or older ducks.”

There was another brief mention in the Rayne-Acadian Tribune (LA), November 8, 1935. “Unhatched ducklings, called baluts, are said to be a Philippine delicacy. They are eaten about ten days before their time to hatch if nature had been left to take its time-honored course. Eggs are hatched in sacks in the sun.”

How much for Balut? The Daily News (CA), July 2, 1949, mentioned, “A balut, it turns out, is a chicken or duck egg that has had the undivided attention of its mother for 14 days, or time for it to reach the embryo stage. Then it’s ready to eat. You can buy three for one peso or 50 cents American.” That would be nearly $6 in today's dollars. 

Balut and hot dogs? The Courier-Journal (KY), January 14, 1950, reported, “Balut is in brief an unhatched duckling relished by the people in and around Manila. These hard-boiled, about-to-hatch duck eggs are sold by peddlers along the streets, kept warm in well-covered baskets. When the Tagalogs eat Balut, ‘They crack the egg at one end, drink the juice, and then pick out the contents with their fingers.’ This dish is as popular as hot dogs here and is responsible for a flourishing duck-egg industry.”  Each culture has their own popular dishes. 

Balut and s spy scandal? In a lengthy article in the Daily World (LA), April 26, 1950, there was an intriguing article about how Balut vendors might be spies! The article began, “This may go on record as the year of the big ‘balut’ spy scare in Manila.” It then continued, describing Balut as “… an almost fully incubated but unhatched duck egg. Its contents are considered a delicacy by Filipinos and some foreigners but not by all foreigners. It goes well with beer, they say. Beer-and-egg, you understand, not egg-in-your-beer.” I wonder what other beverages might pair well with Balut.

Balut is commonly sold by street vendors and the article continued, “One of the familiar sounds in this capital of more than 1,000,000 potential egg eaters is the cry of the balut vendor making his rounds with a basket, in which the duck eggs are kept warm under a jute sack covering. Nobody knows how many balut vendors there are but they certainly number in the hundreds.” The vendors though were recently angry with the government. “These days the balut vendors are plenty annoyed. The police have been pulling them in by the dozens as spy suspects. The vendors even sent a delegation to detective headquarters to protest.”

Why were Balut vendors though to be spies? “The police can not be criticized for their security measures. Communist-inspired Huk outlaws have been battling government forces almost to the city limits and there have been strong indications of Huk infiltration into the capital.” The article also noted, “Somebody started a rumor that the Reds had sent their agents into Manila in the guise of balut salesmen. Not a bad idea, either, if true. The balut men are among the few who can roam the streets day and night without ordinarily arousing suspicion. They could give the town a good ‘casing.”; “Police suspicion was based partly on the fact that most balue venodrs work at night. The balut men explained that duck egg sales are better after dark.”

However, it was thought that the police should be more easily able to differentiate spies from authentic vendors. “To an impartial observer, it appears that the police could pick out the spies by their inexperienced balut calling. As in hog-calling, there is a big difference between a veteran balut-caller and a novice.” The article continued, “…the phony balut salesmen would have a tough tome imitating the lusty-lunged ‘baloooot’ or “bwoooot’ of the Tagalog tradesmen...If the caller hasn’t just the right baritone pitch, or if he pronounces the ‘oo’ like the ‘oo’ in toot rather than the ‘oo’ in foot, then there may be something more than just a red herring…” 

This is another article that was repeated in numerous other American newspapers, bringing attention to Balut to people all across the country.  

A Balut shortage? In a Balut article, the Spokane Chronicle (WA), May 31, 1951, first described it as, “Balut is made of duck eggs, ripened almost to hatching stage. These are cooked and pickled. Vendors have hawked them daily, shouting ‘B-A-A-A-L-U-U-U-T’ in every block.” However, it also noted, "Balut has an aroma stronger than limburger cheese.” There was a problem as the duck’s “favorite snail tidbits” were disappearing, and it was said, “No snails, no eggs.” The issue here was water pollution which was killing off some of the snails. 

An article in the Rocky Mount Telegram (ND), December 28, 1953, provided more details on the Balut industry.  In the Philippines, the Balut provided a livelihood for about 30,000 people, with an annual worth of about 6 ¾ million dollars. “Balut is eaten the year round by rich and poor, young and old, who consider it an appetizing, nutritious food. It has become an important item in the Filipino’s diet and is recommended, even by professional medical men, as an excellent bodybuilder.” 

How was Balut produced? “No costly modern machinery—only simple crude native bric-a-brac—is needed to produce balut.” The article continued, “A duck farm on a river or lake shoreline, bamboo enclosures for the birds, and a hut to house the balut ‘laboratory’ are all one needs to become a balut magnate.” And more, “Rows of big bamboo baskets and clay pots make up the lab. The baskets, where the eggs are placed for 15-18-day incubation, are submerged in rice husks which create and hold heat necessary for incubation. When the eggs have turned into two-thirds developed embryos, they are hard boiled.”

An inexpensive activity. “Raising the ducks isn’t expensive either. They are penned in shallow parts of the river or lake close to the source of their food supply—small, fresh-water clams and snails.” And that is why a dearth of snails hurt the industry as it was one of the main foods of the ducks. 

The article concluded with information on enjoying Balut. “The egg is eaten warm. Its color is the same as any other duck egg, slightly gray-green. The Filipino gourmet cracks the shell at one end and sips out the juice. He then breaks away the rest, revealing a mixture of yolk and white, webbed with dark-red colored embryo.”

Catnip? The Lincoln Star (NE), June 2, 1961, briefly stated, “It has medicinal properties—for a gentleman, balut is like catnip to a cat.” An intriguing analogy.

A religious controversy. The Charlotte News (NC), March 16, 1966, reported that the Vatican had recently ordered Philippine Catholics to stop eating meat on Fridays; “Under an old special church ruling, Filipino Catholics had been able to eat meat on Fridays if they wanted to.” The big question for Filipinos was then, is Balut meat or an egg? The Vatican was considering the issue but Rev. Bruno Arcenas, a young doctor of canon law at Bacolod Cathedral, stated that he believed it should be treated as an egg, and thus permissible to be eaten on Fridays. 

The Fort Lauderdale News (FL), March 14, 1971, reported that the duck egg industry in the Philippines was worth $10 million a year, with over 4.6 million ducks in the country. Prices for balut had been increasing, due to multiple reasons, including polluted rivers driving away snails and vendors being robbed. Over the years, Balut consumption has also been decreasing. Balut used to cost 20 centavos, but now they are 60 centavos, equivalent to a U.S. dime. The Balut industry was in danger, but would eventually rebound. 

During the 1990s, commercial duck feeds were introduced which helped solve the feed issue, where snails were dying off. This commercial feed also allowed duck farms to grow in size, to become larger-scale operations. No longer did duck farms need to be located next to a water source. They could be located almost anywhere, spreading the industry across the Philippines. 

Balut is currently available in the U.S. although it might take a little work to seek it out. 

Have you tasted Balut before? If so, what are your thoughts on it?

East Of Suez: Delicious Pan Asian Cuisine in Wolfeboro, NH

"Ship me somewheres east of Suez, where the best is like the worst,
Where there aren't no Ten Commandments an' a man can raise a thirst"
--Mandalay (1890), by Rudyard Kipling

What first drew me to the restaurant was the fact that it was BYOB. Then, I checked out their food menu and it intrigued me as well, Pan-Asian cuisine, ranging from the Philippines to Vietnam. It also seemed reasonably priced. And as I looked further, I learned that it had existed for over 50 years, a worthy and uncommon achievement in the restaurant industry. As I was going to spend a few days vacationing in Wolfeboro, New Hampshire, I knew I wanted to dine at East of Suez. 

East of Suez was founded back in 1967 by Charles and Norma Powell, taking over a spot that once houses a pizzeria. Charles' father had been a naval officer, photojournalist and cinematographer, and often took Charles with him on visits to China and Japan. In 1962, Charles met his future wife, Norma Antonio, who was from the Philippines. At the time they opened the restaurant, they both lived in New York, so running a restaurant wasn't easy and during the early years, the restaurant was only open on weekends.

Currently, the restaurant is owned and operated by their daughter, Elizabeth Powell Gorai. East of Suez is primarily open for the Summer, though it may extend a bit into October dependent on the weather. Their food is prepared to order, and many local ingredients are used, except for those unavailable. It is also a BYOB spot, so you can bring your own wine or beer, though they also sell a variety of nonalcoholic beverages.

Their website states, "We are one of the oldest Pan-Asian restaurants in the United States, serving an eclectic sampling of exotic cuisine from Southeast Asia and the Pacific Rim, with occasional detours around the world since 1967. Our menu is small, specifically so, to represent a mix of the time-honored classics and culinary innovations our patrons have grown to love, however, each evening we experiment by adding choice delicacies to our collection, in much the way a traveler gathering mementoes might do, if he ventured to explore 'East of Suez."

The restaurant is cozy, spread out over several rooms, and decorated with an eclectic Asian decor, spanning several different cultures. I dined here twice, with several good friends, and on both visits it was fairly crowded, indicative of its popularity. We also brought wine with us on both occasions. Overall, I was impressed with the cuisine, enjoying the layers of flavors in each dish. It earns my hearty recommendation, and I look forward to dining there against some time.

The Regular Menu is relatively small, but with plenty of different choices, and each day they have a Special Daily Menu, adding even more choices. The Regular Menu generally consists of Starters/Small Plates (7 choices, $10-$12), Mains (8 choices, $19-$24) and Desserts (4 choices, $9-$10). The Special Daily Menu adds a Soup (Cup $6, Bowl $8); 4 Starters/Small Plates, 3 Mains, and 2 Desserts. So, there's plenty of options without being overwhelming. There are also Vegetarian and Gluten Free options. This is an excellent place to order a bunch of small plates and share, so you can sample the range of dishes available.

The Manila Polo Club Chowder ($6 cup/$8 bowl) is made with "Rich steamer clam and black tiger shrimp broths with chunky shrimp, bay scallops, clams, golden potatoes, veg." It is "Simmered all day in sweet cream seasoned with saffron, garlic and a hint of red chili." This was a superb chowder, rich and flavorful, with plenty of chunks of seafood. It wasn't too thin or too thick, and was seasoned well, creating nice layers of flavor. It was a big hit at our table.

Another big hit were the Goat Cheese Rangoon ($11), made from "Local NH farm goat cheese, seasoned with fresh herbs, enveloped in wonton skin & deep-fried crispy outside, melty inside; with sweet chili sauce dip." I'm not a fan of Crab Rangoon, with their fake crab meat and cream cheese, but I loved these goat cheese rangoon! Fried perfectly, with a crunchy exterior, the creamy goat cheese was a delight on the palate, enhanced by the sweet chili dip. We had these on both visits as they were just that damn good. Highly recommended!

The Philippine Lumpia ($11) were "Fingerling spring rolls of pork, tiger shrimp & veggies, deep-fried, sliced & served with pineapple sweet & sour." You can also order a Vegetarian version of the Lumpia. These crunchy rolls, with flaky layers, had a pleasing balance of flavors.

The Crab & Corn Fritters ($12) consist of "Shredded lump crab meat and shaved cob corn blended with Thai herbs and spices; Deep-fried crispy and served with nuoc cham, sweet chili lime dip." Another tasty and well balanced dish, the fritters had a great fluffy texture to them, with the crunch of the corn, some sweet crab, and a hint of spice. The dip was delicious too, as were all of the sauces and dips at the restaurant.

The Sichuan Giant Dumplings ($14) were "hearty pork dumplings steamed and drizzled with crunchy garlic soy black vinegar and chili flakes." They certainly were packed with savory pork and the sauce was intriguing, with sour and umami flavors, and a mild hint of heat.

The Japanese Yakitori ($12) include "Rock sugar & sweet soy marinated boneless organic chicken thigh, skewered & charbroiled; with ginger teriyaki glaze." Juicy, flavorful chicken, with some slight charring, and a light sweetness. Again, a well balanced and tasty dish.

Another of the regular Small Plates, Tita Glo's Lettuce Cups ($10), are "Auntie's wok-tossed turkey, apple, raisin & veggie crumble, with sesame, hoisin & garlic; served warm in a cool Boston lettuce leaf with toasted sunflower seeds." A take on lettuce wraps, it is also like a taste of Thanksgiving, with Asian accents.

The Longanisa Bao Buns ($10) are "Sweet and garlicky Philippine pork sausages in puffy steamed bar bun, with lettuce, tomato, onion and banana catsup aioli." Soft buns, with a meaty and intriguing sausage taste, enhanced especially by the aioli.

Onto some Main dishes now. The Bulgoki Steak ($22) consists of "Korean BBQ style, Angus beef flank steak, sliced thin & marinated in sesame, sweet soy & garlic chili miso paste; charbroiled & served with spicy kimchee pickles." The steak was tender and delicious, with a compelling and well-balanced sauce, bringing a nice contrast of sweet and heat.

The Drunken Noodles ($24), aka Pad Kee Mao consists of "wide rice noodles pan-fried with black tiger shrimps, red chili oil, garlic, sweet Thai basil leaves, red and green peppers, onions and Shaoxing rice wine in a sweet & spicy oyster sauce." The noodles had just the right texture and absorbed the tasty and spicy sauce. A hearty dish, there was plenty of shrimp and veggies, and it seemed fresh and bright, a delightful summer dish.

I really loved the Philippine Adobo ($20), "Mama Tars' tender confit of bone-in organic chicken & country style fatty pork, marinated and slowly braised in crushed garlic & soy vinegar with bay leaf & black peppercorns; with sliced fresh banana." Both the chicken and pork were extremely meaty and tender, in a superb and scrumptious sauce, each bite bringing gustatory pleasure.  Highly recommended.

The Vietnamese Bo Luc Lac Beefsteak ($25) is another beef dish, with "Well-marbled Angus rib-eye marinated in soy, garlic, rice wine, and lemongrass, char-broiled to order, sliced and served over mesclun greens and aromatic herb-tossed rice noodles, with nuoc cham, sweet chili lime dip." Once again, the beef was tender and flavorful, though with its own unique taste, a bit brighter here due to the lemongrass. The rice noodles were also quite tasty, with a mild herbal flavor.

Besides all the savory dishes, make sure to save room for Dessert. The Banana Blueberry Hawaiian Bread Pudding ($9) is made from "Barnstead blueberries and coconut sugared bread custard, served with Alae Sea salt butter caramel." I love Bread Pudding and will often order it if I see it on a menu. I think it is an under appreciated dessert, and still would love to see a Boston-Area bakery specializing in it. This Bread Pudding was fantastic, with an excellent, spongy texture, and great flavors of coconut and blueberry, with a salty and sweet edge from the caramel. Highly recommended.

 

The Banana Tempura ($10) consists of "Sweet bananas, batter-dipped, deep-fried light & crispy & honey-drizzled, with scoop of coconut ice cream." Another winner dessert, with an excellent tempura batter, fresh and sweet bananas, and creamy coconut ice cream. Pure hedonism.

Overall, East of Suez presents well-balanced dishes with pleasing layers of flavor. The dishes seem fresh and and everything seems cooked just right, from their noodles to steak. Some of the dishes seem very traditional while others are variations, and those variations, like the Goat Cheese Rangoon, work well. Service was very good on both visits. My only complaint is that they need better wine glasses, as the ones they offer seem more like fancy water glasses. However, you can bring your own glassware if you so desire (which we did on one visit). I strongly recommend you check out East of Suez before the summer ends.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.. **********************************************************
1) Tonite, at 10pm, turn your television to Food Network to watch an epic grill battle. Chef/Owner Matt O’Neil of The Blue Ox in Lynn, is making his in a special grilling-themed episode of Beat Bobby Flay. Season Five, Episode Five, entitled "Stars and Stripes", will pit our local chef against Bobby Flay. This should be a fun way to start the July 4th holiday, and maybe you'll even pick up a few grilling tips.

I'm a big fan of what Chef O'Neil is doing at The Blue Ox, and he is also a two-time reigning Champion of Boston magazine’s ‘Battle of the Burger,’ with his Sin Burger. What will he prepare for this grilling episode? Will his food be good enough to defeat Bobby Flay? Catch the episode tonite and see what happens.

2) As part of Legal Sea Foods’ “Endless Summer” at the Charles Square location in Cambridge, their outdoor Terrace Bar will feature an “All American Hot Dog Bar” during the month of July.

Legal Sea Foods will dish out a single specialty hot dog or a three-dog sampler board. There are five loaded varieties to choose from, including:

· Sonora “Bacon Wrapped a la Plancha” - grilled onions, tomatoes, jalapeño relish
· Chicago Vienna Beef Dog “Dragged Through the Garden” - tomato wedge, piccalilli, pepperoncini, dill pickle, mustard
· New Jersey Thuman’s Dog "Ripper Style" - crispy fried "rutts style" relish, steamed bun
· NY Sabrett All Beef Hot Dog - sauerkraut, sweet onions in tomato, brown mustard
· Rhode Island Little Rhody Brand "Hot Weiner" - diced onions, meat sauce, yellow mustard, steamed bun

Cost: One Dog ($5); Three Dog Sampler Board ($15)

3) On July 21, at 7:15pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Jordan Vineyard & Winery. Established in 1972, the winery was inspired by the great wine estates of France and the timeless connection between food, wine and hospitality. Located in Sonoma's Alexander Valley, the home for their wine is an extraordinary chateau combining winemaking facilities, guest suites and dining areas under one roof. Founders Tom and Sally Jordan set a standard for a Bordeaux-style California Cabernet Sauvignon and wine country hospitality, a top standard that is still held at Jordan today.

Legal Sea Foods will team up with Jordan’s National Sales Director, Chris Avery, to host a four-plus-course dinner paired with selections from the Jordan vine. The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Maine Crabmeat Salad, Yuzu, Cucumber Cups
Pan-Seared Scallop Tartlet, Vanilla Infused Leeks
Charred Shrimp & Roasted Tomato Bruschetta
Jordan Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2013
FIRST COURSE
Pecan Wood Grilled Tuna Steak (Shiitake Creamed Orzo, Cavolo Nero, Local Blueberry Gastrique)
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 1995
SECOND COURSE
Herb Crusted Lamb Loin (Grilled Eggplant Caponata, Agrodolce)
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2006
THIRD COURSE
Bacon-Pepper Wrapped Beef Tournedos (Boursin Smashed Potato, Crispy Leeks, Bordelaise)
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2009
CHEESE COURSE
Aged Vermont Dandy, Grafton Three-Year Aged Cheddar
Chili Chocolate Truffle, Apricot Chutney, Brioche Toast Points
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2011

COST: $125 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397

4) Akinto, which debuted in March., is the current culinary residency at the South End speakeasy Wink & Nod. Executive Chef Patrick Enage has created a tasting menu to give guests the opportunity to try the many flavors of Akinto, inspired by Southeast Asian street food from Chef Enage’s native Philippines as well as India, Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam, China, Japan and Laos.

I've been to Akinto, though I'm behind in my review. I will say that the food rocks! It  is delicious, with a great depth of flavor, and we need more of this cuisine in the Boston area. Chef Engage earns my highest recommendation and he needs to have his own restaurant in the Boston area. Thus, I heartily recommend you check out this new tasting menu.

The five-course tasting menu will be available Monday – Thursday beginning at 5pm. The tasting menu, which features popular dishes and highlights from Akinto’s dinner menu will allow guests to try a variety of dishes, served family style, for only $65 / person.

The full tasting menu is as follows:

To Begin
Roti Paratha, Red Curry Dipping Sauce
Cucumber Salad, Bean Sprouts, Toasted Sesame
Marinated Shiitake Mushrooms
First
Spicy Pork “Drop Wontons”, Anise BBQ, Toasted Sesame-Rice Wine, Peanut Paste
Pork Hash “Sisig”, Quail Egg Yolk, Calamansi, Soy*
Head On Chili Shrimp, House Sambal, Patola*
Second
Kabayaki Glazed Swordfish Belly, Taiwan Lettuce, Salted Duck Egg Vinaigrette
Braised Oxtail, Black Bean-Water Spinach, Jasmine Rice
Roasted Duck Bao Bun, Hoisin-Ginger Sauce, Green Onion
Third
Vegetable-Pineapple Fried Rice, Fried Egg, Cilantro
Chicken Tom Kha Gai, Thai Coconut Broth, Lemongrass, Lime
Teapot Fish Stew, Lemongrass-Clam Broth
Kalbi, XO-Coconut Glaze, Calamansi, Cilantro, Flowering Chives, Peanuts
Fourth
Mango Sorbet, Lychee Boba, Chili Essence
Turon, Banana Fritter, Jack Fruit, Smoky Caramel

Reservations recommended so please call 617-482-0117

5) On Monday, July 13, at 6:30pm, guests will take a virtual culinary wine tour of the Italian countryside at Fiorella’s Restaurant’s summer wine dinner. Designed to both educate and entertain, Fiorella’s wine dinner features a five-course prix fixe meal, paired with Italian wines from Martignetti Companies.

Inspired by homemade and authentic Italian cuisine, Fiorella’s all-inclusive meal ($85 per person + tax and gratuity) offers seasonal dishes. Each course will be accompanied by a paired wine. In addition, Len Presutti, the corporate wine educator from Martignetti Companies will guide guests through the wines, expanding on the history, curiosities and nuances of each selection.

Summer Wine Dinner
--Chilled and marinated Spanish octopus served with seared Yukon gold potato, green olives, evoo and arugula
Wine: Batasiolo Gavi di Gavi Granee
--Roasted fig stuffed with gorgonzola with prosciutto and balsamic glaze
Wine: Roagna Dolcetto
--Corn, chanterelle mushroom, and mixed heirloom tomato risotto with rock shrimp sautéed with meyer lemon and chives
Wine: Ascheri Arneis
--Honey, orange, soy and ginger marinated duck breast served with sweet fingerling potatoes with golden raisins and pancetta served with a frisee salad
Wine: Sperino Lessona
--Native bing cherry and blueberry crisp with a dark chocolate sauce and mascarpone gelato
Wine: Brachetto

For Reservations, please call 617-969-9990

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.. **********************************************************
1) Boston Nightlife Ventures (BNV) is excited to announce Akinto at Wink & Nod, a new culinary collaboration with Executive Chef Patrick Enage that is part of the craft cocktail speakeasy’s rotating pop-up dining program. Focusing on Southeast Asian cuisine, Enage’s six month residency in the kitchen at Wink & Nod begins on Monday, March 30.

The name Akinto means “this is mine” in Tagalog, reflecting Enage’s view of the program as a welcome opportunity to articulate and explore his own distinctive culinary perspective. Enage explains, “I see Akinto as an exciting opportunity to introduce guests to the Southeast Asian flavors and ingredients I grew up with—the flavors that shaped my culinary perspective.”

Enage was born in the Philippines and moved to Los Angeles at a young age. A culinary school graduate, Enage worked in fine dining establishments and hotels across the country before meeting his mentor, current BNV Chief Culinary Officer Bill Brodsky, while working the line at the Wequassett Resort and Golf Club. Prior to joining the BNV team, Enage worked as Chef de Cuisine at Brodsky’s City Landing restaurant in Boston. To prepare for this new project, Enage took a month to travel around Asia this winter, exploring traditions and ingredients at their source.

Akinto will showcase the distinctive flavors and ingredients of Southeast Asian street food from Enage’s native Philippines as well as India, Singapore, Thailand, India, Vietnam, China, Japan and Laos. Designed to encourage sharing, the menu features snack-sized small and medium plates that complement Wink & Nod’s cocktail program, as well as large plates and desserts that will satisfy guests seeking a full meal.

Highlights from the approachably priced menu include:

Small Plates ($7-$10)
--Pork Hash “Sisig” with quail egg, calamansi, and soy
--Traditional Shrimp Bao Buns in a curried mussel liqueur
--Spicy Pork “Drop Wontons” with anise BBQ, toasted sesame-rice wine, & peanut paste
Medium Plates ($11-$18)
--Braised Oxtail and Black Bean Water Spinach with jasmine rice and house chili oil
--18-Hour Pork Belly in a Kabocha-pho broth
--Kabayaki Glazed Swordfish Belly with grilled Taiwan lettuce and salted duck egg vinaigrette
Large Plates ($22-31)
--Teapot Fish Stew with lemongrass-native clam broth
--Steamed Striped Bass with orange miso tamarind glaze and long beans
--Korean Style Beef Short Rib with X0-coconut glaze, calamansi, cilantro, flowering chives, and peanuts
Desserts ($6-$9)
--Green Tea-Almond Chocolate Bar
--Thai Tea Crème Brulee with peanut crackle
--Turon Banana Fritter with jack fruit and smoky caramel

As I have written about before, I have bemoaned the fact that there is so little Filipino cuisine available in the Boston area, so I am very excited to see the arrival of Arinto. I hope you check it out too and let me know your thoughts.

2) On April 13, at 6:30pm, Legal Oysteria will host a Tuscan wine dinner with Wine Expert, Claudio Andreani. Legal Oysteria will team up with Andreani to host an exclusive four-plus-course dinner featuring signature cuisine paired with selections from the Tuscan vine.

The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Grilled Calamari Salad
Fresh Cod Cakes
Olive Oil Poached Tuna Crostini
Tenuta Campo al Mare Vermentino, 2013
FIRST COURSE
Pan-Seared Trout (fennel purée, warm pine nut dressing)
Tenute del Cabreo “La Pietra” Chardonnay, 2012
Tenuta di Nozzole “Le Bruniche” Chardonnay, 2013
SECOND COURSE
Swordfish Saltimbocca (slow-roasted balsamic turnips & cipollini onions, toasted fregola)
Tenute del Cabreo “Il Borgo” Super Tuscan, 2011
Tenuta TorCalvano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 2011
THIRD COURSE
Rosemary and Black Pepper Rib Roast (roasted wild mushrooms, grilled asparagus, porcini jus)
Tenuta di Nozzole “La Forra” Chianti Classico Riserva, 2009
CHEESE COURSE
Manchego
Aged Gouda
Pecorino Romano
Tenuta di Nozzole “Il Pareto” Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009

COST: $85 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservations required by calling (617) 530-9392

3) On Monday, April 20, in celebration of the 2015 Boston Marathon, The Beehive will host the second annual benefit event in support of the Gillian Reny Stepping Strong Fund. From 10am-1am, 100% of the profits will be donated towards the organization’s mission to fuel cutting-edge research and clinical programs in trauma healing and limb reconstruction.

The Reny Family established the Gillian Reny Stepping Strong Fund in gratitude to the doctors at the Brigham and Women’s Hospital (BWH) that saved their 18 year old daughter’s life and limbs following the explosions at the finish line of the 2013 Boston Marathon. The fund fuels innovative research and clinical programs in trauma healing and limb reconstruction to help future patients with traumatic, athletic and disease-related limb injuries regain their strength so they can step strong once again. The Beehive is proud to honor the medical heroes at BWH who treated and saved 39 patients with life-threatening injuries that day and support this effort to turn the tragedy that befell the Reny Family into hope for the future.

Guests will enjoy a day of live jazz performances and cuisine from The Beehive’s Executive Chef Marc Orfaly. Opening for a special holiday brunch, guests can enjoy selections from The Beehive’s brunch menu including: Eggs Shakshuka, poached eggs baked “North African Style” in tomato sauce with polenta ($15), Quiche with hot & sweet Italian sausage, broccoli rabe, caramelized onion, mozzarella ($16.5) and Sirloin Steak & Potato Hash, poached egg, salad ($17.50). For kids ten and under, The Beehive has a “Little Bee’s Kids Menu” featuring scrambled eggs and toast, kiddie French toast and grilled cheese and frites (all $8).

For dinner, guests can indulge including dishes such as: Szechuan Style Beef Brisket with Kung Pao vegetables ($25), Roasted Salmon, truffled savoy cabbage and whole grain mustard broth ($26), The Beehive Prime Burger with frites & slaw ($18) and Cauliflower Parmesan, arugula and pomodoro sauce ($24).

For reservations, please call 617-423-0069

4) The South Boston Neighborhood Development Corporation presents the 13th Annual Taste of South Boston on April 12th from 6 - 9 pm at the Plaza Ballroom at the Seaport Hotel . Don’t miss out on this chance to sample delectable culinary creations from South Boston’s new dining establishments including: Pastoral, Bastille Kitchen, Loco Taqueria, J.P. Licks, and the Juice Box. In addition to these new establishments will be: American Provisions, Barking Crab, Café Porto Bello, Cranberry Café, Empire, Flour Bakery & Café, Jerry Remy's Seaport, Legal Harborside, Lincoln, Local 149, Lucky's Lounge, M.C. Spiedo, Miam Miam Macaronerie, No Name Restaurant, The Paramount, Salsa's, Salvatore's, Stephi's in Southie, Strega Waterfront, Sweet Tooth Boston, Tamo Bistro & Bar, Temazcal, and Trade.

Al's Liquors will be pouring samples of select wines, and Harpoon Brewery will be providing samples of their latest brews.

Purchase tickets today at: tasteofsouthboston.com

5) As the highly-anticipated premiere of the fifth season of “Game of Thrones” approaches, the show continues to establish itself as a true cultural phenomenon. In response to the excitement among devoted viewers, Violet Thorn, the signature bar and lounge located at The VERVE - Crowne Plaza Natick, will offer a special menu inspired by the fantasy drama during the weekend of the premiere.

On Saturday, April 11 and Sunday, April 12, “Game of Thrones” enthusiasts are invited to enjoy a selection of small plates created by Executive Chef Alastair Mclean and Chef James Booth for the return of the hit series. Fans looking for bold flavors will want to start with Dragons Tail with Fire Breath ($10), an appetizer of crispy pig tails tossed in a spicy sauce, while those seeking hearty fare that’s guaranteed to satisfy even the nobles of Westeros will want to dig into piping hot Beef n’ Bacon Pie ($12), a beef stew topped with a flaky puff pastry. For “Thrones” fans hoping to dine like true medieval royalty, Violet Thorn’s King’s Landing Confit ($10), a dish comprising of turkey leg with giblet gravy, and Baratheon Blood Wild Boar Rib ($12), a plate of ribs with braised tomato sauce, are the perfect fit. Providing a perfectly sweet ending is Sansa’s Homemade Lemon Pie ($8), a light and refreshing dessert drizzled with vanilla icing and topped with roasted almonds.

Guests looking for a complete experience will want to take advantage of The VERVE’s “Game of Throne’s”-themed overnight package that includes the following: two small plates from Violet Thorn’s special menu, a bucket of three beers from Ommegang Brewery, popcorn, and of course, a complimentary in-room viewing of episode one of the season five premier on Sunday, April 12th.

COST: Room package starts at $159 for Saturday, April 11th and $219 for Sunday, April 12th (tax and gratuity not included). Package includes: choice of two small plates from “Game of Thrones”-themed menu, popcorn, and a bucket of three beers from Ommegang Brewery.
For Reservations, please call 508-653-8800

6) On Wednesday, April 22,  The Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover, is celebrating the opening of “The Back Room at The Wine ConneXtion,” the new high-end wines and spirits room, with a complimentary whisky sampling, “East Meets West.”

Last year Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible named Yamazaki Single Malt Japanese Whisky the best whisky in the world— the first time in its history that a Japanese whisky took the top spot, bypassing Scotch and shocking connoisseurs all over the world. But what are the defining differences between the two whiskys? From 6:30PM to 8:30PM the expert staff will be serving tastes of top-shelf whiskys from Japan, Taiwaan and Scotland, highlighting the subtle flavor differences between the two styles as a result of heating techniques, climate and landscape.

Don’t miss this opportunity to experience the evolving profiles of the whisky world and to support the expansion of The Wine ConneXtion.

COST: Tastings are complimentary and open to the public, 21+ only

7) In lieu of a vacation to Europe this spring, Davis Square watering hole Saloon is going on “Island Time, Scottish Style” as they host a whiskey tasting celebrating the liquid delights of Scotland’s shores on April 21 at 7pm. Emceed by Saloon’s resident malt man and Beverage Director Manny Gonzales, this spirits-based tasting will showcase single-malt scotches from various Scottish islands including Islay, Jura, the Isle of Mull and the Isle of Arran. Complemented by a selection of cheeses and charcuterie, Gonzales will hand-select some of the greatest tastes from Scotland’s premier isles while imparting his wisdom on how these whiskeys are developed in relation to their islandic surroundings.

COST: $35 per person
Advance reservations required. For tickets, please visit: http://www.eventbrite.com/e/island-time-scottish-style-tickets-16384532578?aff=es2

Rant: No Predictions For 2013, Only Wishes

Break out your crystal ball, look into its depths and envision the future. What food and drink trends do you see coming up for 2013? If you don't have your own predictions, you will find numerous articles making their own predictions. It happens every year but if you review the previous year's predictions, you will likely realize that most of the predictions probably never came true. Our prophetic powers seem to be lacking. It would be futile for me to predict a list of trends which might occur in 2013.

Instead, I want to offer my wishes for which trends I want to see, though it may be doubtful that these trends will actually occur. I believe my wishes address gaps in the local food and drink scene, and which present opportunities for adventurous entrepreneurs to capitalize on. Too many trends extend for far too long, becoming stale and trite, because they seem safe. I am hoping more people choose to take a risk by leading the way in a new trend rather than following others like sheep.

1) Bread Pudding: I am so tired of cupcakes, especially as it seems many are average or lower quality. A good bread pudding can put those cupcakes to shame, and bread pudding is so versatile, available in a myriad of tasty flavors. Maybe you would enjoy a moist chocolate bread pudding or a light bourbon bread pudding with caramel sauce. Why don't more restaurants offer this dish on their dessert menus? Why isn't there a local bakery that specializes in different bread puddings? Can you make a bread pudding out of all those mediocre cupcakes? My favorite dessert of 2012 was a Pineapple Bread Pudding and I would love to see more restaurants creating their own compelling bread pudding.

2) Meatloaf: I am also tired of burgers. I love a good burger but I think we are over saturated with burger joints, with even more coming in the near future. When is enough enough? Why not use all that ground beef and create some amazing meatloaf recipes? I admit that meatloaf never did much for me but The Painted Burro has changed my mind, showing me the potential of this comfort food. Their Yucatan Meatloaf was stunning, a blend of alluring flavors that won't remind you of the bland meatloaf you might have once had as a child. I want other restaurants to step up to the plate and create their own unique meatloaf recipes, recipes that will change the mind of even meatloaf haters.

3) Filipino Restaurants: There isn't a single Filipino restaurant in Boston and the closest restaurant appears to be in Quincy, JnJ Turo Turo. Where is the love for Filipino cuisine? This isn't just a Boston problem as there are less than 500 Filipino restaurants across the country. However, it can be a delicious cuisine, with a rich history, so it is very strange that there are so few restaurants. This is a great opportunity for a Filipino chef to blaze a trail in Boston. Bring on adobo, mechado, kare-kare and more!

4) Peruvian Ingredients: Peruvian cuisine is under represented in the Boston area despite the myriad of fascinating Peruvian ingredients which exist, from thousands of potatoes to numerous indigenous fruits. Chef Jose Duarte of Taranta, an Italian/Peruvian restaurant in the North End, has opened my eyes to the vast potential of Peruvian ingredients. He has created some superb dishes and I am perplexed why more chefs are not delving into the treasure trove of Peru, using such ingredients to enhance their dishes too. Let us see  lucuma, auyuma, panca pepper and more.

5) Sake: Sake seems to be growing in popularity, but very slowly. I want that trend to continue though I would prefer that the pace accelerates. It truly is a complex and wondrous drink with a rich history and culture. It is extremely food friendly and many more people would enjoy it if only they tasted it. I will continue my own campaign to spread my passion for Sake and hope others take up the effort as well. Come to one of my Sake dinners, tastings or classes in 2013 and learn why you should be enjoying Sake.

6) Fortified Wines: Sherry, Port and Madeira remain niche beverages, though they are worthy of far more attention. Consumers often possess misinformation about these wines and need more education to better appreciate them. For example, many think all Sherry is sweet yet a large portion are actually dry, like Fino and Manzanilla, and they are food friendly. Why not enjoy some oysters and briny Manzanilla? Port is great after dinner, yet it too can work well throughout an entire meal. Explore these fortified wines and learn the marvels they contain.

7) Spirit Paired Dinners: Wine and beer paired dinners have become commonplace but it is still a rarity to find dinners paired with spirits, such as bourbon, scotch, tequila, and rum. For example, Legal Sea Foods ran their first Scotch paired dinner this past year. I have attended several spirit paired dinners in 2012 and the pairings often worked quite well. People usually don't think of drinking spirits with dinner but they should give it consideration. Restaurants have the opportunity to present unique events by creating harmonious pairings with spirits. Show the potential to consumers.

What food & drink trends would you like to see in 2013?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently. **********************************************************
1)  Celebrate Taco Armageddon on July 17, from 6:30-8:30pm, orchestrated by the long lost fifth horseman of the Tacopocalypse, Chef Brian Poe. Poe's Kitchen at the Rattlesnake will play host to Tacopocalypse. Enjoy a variety of taco offerings like Thai chicken with peach basil salsa, cherry smoked boar and other chefs’ choice specialty tacos. There will also be a dessert taco bar. Tequila Espolón will be on hand with some goodies, too. Visit Eat Boston for more info and tickets.

2)  Both Filipino and Mexican cuisines are full of bold flavors like chile, cilantro and lime, and bursting with exotic aromas and spicy accents. These common ingredients and similar flavor profiles represent a link between the two cultures cultivated for over 250 years by the Manila-Acapulco Galleon trade route, which linked Spain’s colony in the Philippines with its empire in New Spain, now present day Mexico. However, in 1815 the Mexican War for Independence marked the end of the trade route, creating a divide between these two cultures that is apparent in the cuisine served in both countries today.

From Monday, July 16, through Saturday, July 20, Chef Erwin Ramos of the Olé Restaurant Group will offer a special dinner menu at both Olé Mexican Grill in Cambridge and Zócalo Cocina Mexicana in Boston, to celebrate the similarities and distinctions between Mexican and Filipino food nurtured by the Galleon trade route. Born in the Philippines, Chef Ramos will showcase the influence his heritage has had on his culinary skill set and the Mexican cuisine served in his restaurants today. For $39 per person (plus tax & gratuity), guests will enjoy a delicious four-course meal, with each course featuring one dish from each culture, served alongside one another. By the end of the meal, diners will not only have sated their appetite, but will also have a greater appreciation for the impressions Mexican and Filipino cultures left on one another as a result of hundreds of years of trade.

There is a limited time to experience this fusion of two worlds on one plate and reservations are recommended. To make a reservation at Zócalo Cocina Mexicana please call (617) 456-7849. To make a reservation at Olé Mexican Grill please call (617) 492-4495.

APPETIZER 
Chicken Taquitos/Lumpia
*Crispy corn stuffed with chicken, potatoes and cheese/
*Rice tortilla rolled with chicken and shrimp
Or
Mahi-Mahi Ceviche/Kinilaw
*Mahi-mahi in lime, jalapeno, tomatoes & cilantro/
*Mahi-mahi in lime, vinegar and ginger
Or
Corn Tamales/Suman
*Steamed cornmeal stuffed with chicken/
*Steamed sticky rice with pork
Or
Cactus Salad/Atchara with Lechon Kawali 
*Pickled cactus on a bed of mixed greens/
*Green papaya salad with roasted pork

ENTRÉE 
Mexican Adobo/Filipino Adobo (Chicken & pork)
*Cooked in achiote and dried chile paste/
*Cooked in soy sauce, garlic and vinegar
Or
Mole Amarillo/Kare-Kare
*Pork stew cooked in tomatillos & chiles/
*Oxtail in rice & peanut sauce

DESSERT 
Flan de Caramelo/Halo-Halo


I have ranted before about the lack of Filipino cuisine in the Boston area so it is great to see this dinner. I will be checking it out, so will report back my thoughts in the near future.  Hope you will check it out as well.

3) Celebrate and experience Armenian culture and cuisine at the Boston Kermesse: Armenian Street Fair & Festival. The weekend-long event, presented by the Armenian Cultural and Educational Center (ACEC) in Watertown, will take place this year on Friday, July 20 to Sunday, July 22. The event will showcase all aspects of Armenian culture such as art exhibits from local artists, traditional Armenian food and gourmet tastings from local food vendors including Tutunjian Wines, Eastern Lamejun, Massis Bakery, Fastachi and more.

Last year, the open-air festival attracted over 5,000 guests from the Greater Boston area, and beyond. The incredibly successful festival will once again raise proceeds to benefit the Armenian Cultural and Educational Center (ACEC), a nonprofit organization tasked with sustaining and nourishing Armenian culture and education through the community center. This year, the event will feature live music by internationally renowned Armenian musicians such as Harout Pamboukjian, Arman Hovhannisyan, John Berberian Ensemble featuring Onnik Dinkjian, Arev Armenian Folks Ensemble, KarenKocharyan Quartet featuring Jerry Bergonzi and Classic Groove and other performers. Guests can experience Authentic Armenian cuisine with cooking demonstrations from local chefs including Ani Catering & Takeout and Armenian Market Bakery. Shop the latest collections of bangles and necklaces from Alex and Ani Jewelry bangle bar at Boston Kermesee. Perfect for kids of all ages, the festival will include a special visit and meet & greet by Wally of the Boston Red Sox as well as a Gladiator Joust and Bounce House.

Hours: Friday, July 20 from 6pm-11pm, Saturday, July 21 from 12pm-11pm, Sunday, July 22 from 12pm-7pm

Cost: Free admission for children's entertainment, exhibits, vendors and food. Ticketed Admission for Entertainment Portion only.
Friday, July 20: Featuring: Harout Pamboukjian! Adults: $25/Children:$10
Saturday, July 21: Featuring Arman Hovanisyan! Adults: $30/Children:$10
Sunday, July 22: Featuring Onnik Dinkjian & John Berberian & MalBarsamian
Adults: $15/Children:$10 2 Day & 3 Day Passes (Entertainment)
All-Access 3-Day Pass Adults: $55 / Children $20
2-Day (Fri/Sat) Access Pass Adults: $45/Children $15

Info: To purchase tickets or for more information please visit: www.boston-kermesse.org.

4) Proprietor Peter Lovis, of the Concord Cheese Shop, is still talking about his springtime trip to northern Italy, where he visited three cheesemakers, and participated in the production of a 400-lb. wheel of crucolo cheese that will be delivered to him in December for Concord’s annual Crucolo Day Parade. Lovis spent time at the family-owned Formaggi Carozzi in Lombardy, maker of fine taleggios and gorgonzolas. While there, he tasted some cheeses that have never been exported to the United States. It was possible to have them shipped direct to his shop, and the first wheels of these unique cheeses arrived this week. Ask for a sample of:

Strachitunt (strak-ee-tunte): A soft cow’s milk cheese with a hint of mold imbuing a mild “blue cheese” flavor; Made like taleggio, the cheesemaker pours each morning’s fresh, warm cheese curds on top of the curds that were poured and cooled from the evening before. Next, the crust is pierced to blend the two textures together. Upon maturation, the cheese becomes aromatic and runny, ideal served on crisp rye crackers.

Ricciolo: An aged cow’s milk cheese that’s tangy and crumbly on the inside, with a rustic crust on the outside. The Concord Cheese Shop has just one wheel of this cheese (but hopes to receive more), and it is in perfect condition for nibbling now.

Taleggio Piacere: If you like taleggio, you’ll love this twist on it, as they do in Valsassina, where it’s made. Young, tangy, with hints of citrus and lemon peel.

5)  On August 15, at 6:30pm,, Legal Sea Foods’ Vice President of Beverage Operations and Master of Wine, Sandy Block, will host an exciting and adventurous “Blind Tasting” wine dinner at the Park Square location. Each delectable course will feature a comparative tasting of European and “New World” wines whose identities will be concealed so guests can enjoy them with the food pairings. While discussing their distinctive qualities in a group setting, guests will indulge in the following menu:

Hors D'Oeuvres 
Clams Casino, Thyme Butter Lobster &
Pork Spring Roll, Sweet &
Sour Sauce Tuna & Coconut Milk Ceviche,* Aji Oil
First Course 
Prosciutto Wrapped Shrimp
Baby Arugula & Watermelon Salad, Roasted Walnuts, Feta Cheese, Aged Balsamic Reduction
Second Course 
Pan Seared Yellow Fin Tuna
Garden Vegetables, Red Quinoa Salad, Black Olive Tapenade
Third Course
Hickory Wood Grilled Swordfish 
Stuffed Poblano Peppers, Zucchini Corn Sauce
Cheese Course
Local Swiss, Manchego, Muenster Peach Compote, Brioche Toast Points

Cost: $75 per person (excludes tax and gratuity)
Reservation required by calling: 617-530-9397

Rant: Where Is The Filipino Love?

One of the major benefits of immigration has been the influx of so many different cuisines, expanding the horizons of our palates. Restaurants offering authentic cuisines from the varied countries around the world have enhanced the diversity of our gustatory realm. Just consider Boston and Cambridge, and all the cuisines available, from Tibetan to Senegalese, from Afghani to Ethiopian. But there is one curious omission, and it is not limited to our local area.

There does not appear to be a single Filipino restaurant in Boston or Cambridge. The closest Filipino restaurant appears to be JnJ Turo-Turo, established in 2007 in Quincy. It has received some mixed reviews as to its quality but raises the larger question of why there are not more Filipino restaurants in the Boston area. But if you look at the even greater picture, you will realize that there are relatively few Filipino restaurants anywhere in the U.S.

In Asian Dining Rules by Steven A. Shaw (Harper Collins, 2008), it is estimated that there are only 481 Filipino restaurants in the U.S., which can be compared to 43,139 Chinese restaurants. You might think that is due in part because there are few Filipinos in the U.S., but you would be wrong. Based on the 2000 census, Filipinos constitute the second largest Asian population in the U.S., with the Chinese occupying first place. The third to sixth place groups include Indians, Koreans, Vietnamese, and Japanese. Out of these six groups, Filipinos have the least amount of restaurants.  Why is that the case?

It appears that no one has definitive proof of the actual reasons but there are plenty of speculations. Asian Dining Rules provides three possibilities: 1) Filipinos do not have a restaurant going culture; 2) There is a strong cultural preference for eating at home with family; and 3) Cooking is not traditionally considered a valid Filipino career.  In an LA Times article, "Off the Menu," Amy Scattergood mentions that one reason may be that Filipino food is not visually very appealing. In addition, most of the existing Filipino restaurants are only  "...mom-and-pop places (called turo-turo or "point-point" restaurants, because you often just point at the buffet-style food) or fast food."

Filipino cuisine has many influences, from Hispanic to Chinese, and it appears that pork and seafood are very prominent. With the current love for all things pig in the U.S., it would seem that Filipino dishes involving pork would be very popular. One popular Filipino dish is Adobo, where meat or seafood is marinated in a sauce of vinegar and garlic, browned in oil and then simmered in the marinade. That sounds like a dish that would appeal to many Americans.

Though I have some Filipino relatives, through marriage not blood, as well as some Filipino friends, I have not eaten any authentic Filipino meals. I have not dined out at JnJ Turo-Turo. But I very much want to experience their cuisine, and I want to understand why there are so few Filipino restaurants across the country. It would seem to be a great opportunity for an entrepreneur, to bring this cuisine more mainstream. It is not a cuisine that by its nature should turn people off and actually should seem familiar in part. In 2011, there are an estimated 4 million Filipinos in the U.S. and that should warrant far more than the less than 500 Filipino restaurants that currently exist.  

If you are Filipino, why do you believe there are so few Filipino restaurants in the U.S.? Do you write a blog that showcases the cuisine of the Philippines?

We should also ask whether there other ethnic cuisines which are significantly underrepresented in the U.S.