Rant: Too Many Affluent White People?

The food sustainability movement needs to be more than affluent white people.

At the closing session, Return to the Regional, of the recent Chefs Collaborative National Summit, the above statement was made by one of the panelists. There was little debate or rebuttal of the statement. Instead, it seemed almost as a given, as if most of the attendees agreed with the statement, or at least did not feel comfortable discussing it. But it raises issues in my mind, and I really don't have sufficient evidence to either properly support or rebut it.

Locally, and more anecdotally, it seems to me that the statement is largely true, though it also depends on the definition of "affluent." By affluent, I see it more as those with comfortable incomes, with a decent amount of discretionary income. They are not rich or wealthy, but can be thought of as comfortable middle-class.

There are some non-whites involved in the sustainability movement, but they appear to be a small minority. If you consider the chefs who are involved in this movement, and who participate in many of the events, they appear to be primarily white. Obviously, much more diversity is desirable, for many reasons, and especially if we hope for the sustainability movement to grow and succeed.

At least for consumers, part of the reason for the affluence is the generally higher cost of sustainable food. It is often more costly to create such food, so the cost is commensurately higher. But such food needs to become more affordable for all, or it will ultimately fail. If it cannot serve people of all economic means, then it cannot spread throughout all of our communities.

As for chefs, more work needs to be done with presenting it as a valid career option for children of all races and ethnicities. Promote cooking in schools, let children determine whether it is something that appeals to them or not.

What are your thoughts on this issue? Does anyone have any evidence or studies concerning this matter?

Saké Tasting & Classes

My passion for Saké continues to spread to others.

It has been a good month for Saké, with me leading two events, a tasting at Urban Grape and a class at the Boston Wine School. At both events, most of the attendees had limited knowledge of Saké but were eager to learn and taste. I believe the majority of them left the events with a much more positive view towards Saké. It was pleasing to see the joy in the attendees when they tasted a specific Saké that they really enjoyed, especially when the taste was so unexpected to them. More people would enjoy Saké if they just had the proper introduction.

In honor of Saké Day, which is October 1, I presided over a tasting of 14 Sakés at the Urban Grape in Chestnut Hill. A nonstop flow of people came to the tasting, a number of them also purchasing some of the Saké. As I poured, I tried to give everyone a brief introduction to this fine drink, including intriguing facts and trivia such as Bijinshu, a Saké made by virgins who chewed the rice. Urban Grape now carries over 35 different Sakés, which is one of the largest selections available locally and definitely an excellent location for Saké lovers.

Some of the Saké we tasted included:
Funaguchi Kikusui Honjozo Nama Genshu (A Saké in a can, and which proved very popular with the attendees.)
Tozai "Living Jewel" Junmai
Ama no To "Heaven's Door" Tokubetsu Junmai (Another popular choice.)
Mantensei "Star-Filled Sky" Junmai Ginjo
Nanbu Bijin "Southern Beauty" Junmai Ginjo
Fukucho "Moon on the Water" Junmai Ginjo
Sato No Homare "Pride of the Village" Junmai Ginjo (Another very popular choice.)
Takasago Ginga Shizuku "Divine Droplets" Junmai Daiginjo
Dassai "23" Junmai Daiginjo (A superb Saké, that most really loved.)
Rihaku "Dreamy Clouds" Tokubetsu Junmai Nigori
Dassai "50" Junmai Daiginjo Nigori (A popular choice too.)

At Jonathon Alsop's Boston Wine School, I recently conducted a Saké class and tasting. This was a more structured event, with a detailed lesson about Saké, including its history, brewing process, various styles, food pairings, and more. The attendees seemed very interested, asked plenty of questions and generally enjoyed the Sakés we tasted. It was a fun and informative evening, and Jonathon provided some good food too, from sushi to cheeses.

The list of those we tasted included:
Suihoro "Poochi Poochi" Sparkling Saké
Tatsuuma-Honke Hakushika Yamadanishiki Junmai
Tozai "Living Jewel" Junmai
Kikusui Junmai Ginjo (A very popular choice.)
Gekkeikan "Horin" Junmai Daiginjo (Also very popular.)
Momokawa "Organic Nigori" Junmai Ginjo (Another popular choice.)

In the future, I will be conducting more Saké classes and tasting. For example, next month I will be holding a class at the Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose (details to follow). Probably around January 2011, I will also do another class at the Boston Wine School. And I am working at trying to schedule other classes and tastings.

If interested, I am also currently available for hire to teach Saké classes or lead tastings. Wine stores, restaurants, distributors, or schools, can contact me to discuss potential events. I am also available for consumers if you would like a private class or tasting at your home. For more information, just email me at ubarluther@aol.com

Saturday Sips & Nibbles

I am here with a special Saturday edition of my usual "Thursday Sips & Nibbles," as it has been a busy week and there are a few interesting wine and food items that I wanted to mention.
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1) The Meat House in Arlington is presenting The Mystique of Meat, a special two session course with Mort Berenson, a butcher shop owner in Faneuil Hall for over 30 years. Mort will
share his tips on how to cook delicious meats. Just in time for the holidays, learn everything you need to know about how to purchase and prepare meats, season and store all cuts of meats, and how not to ruin your Thanksgiving turkey. Mort will guide you through all the basic cooking techniques and share his tips on roasting, pot roasting and BBQing. Tastings will include rib roast, turkey, steak, buffalo, goose and so much more!

When: Wednesday, October 27 (concentrating on beef) & Wednesday, November 3 (concentrating on poultry and pork), from 7:30pm - 10:00pm

Cost: $29 per person for complete course. To register call: 781-643-6328

2) Consistency is very important in restaurants, having the food and service be of equal quality on each visit. This past week, I returned again to Nebo, a North End restaurant of which I have raved before. Since that prior review, I have visited Nebo a few different times, often bringing friends who had never been there before. And I have found Nebo to be extremely consistent, their cuisine always quite delicious. The friends who have accompanied me have enjoyed themselves very much too, savoring all of the tasty food. From the honey laced Arancini to their Pizza Con Patate, there are plenty of excellent choices on the menu. One of my friends the other night stated that the pizza was the best she had tasted in Boston so far. So, once again I give Nebo a very strong recommendation and suggest you check it out. You won't be disappointed.

3) The Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose is celebrating their First Anniversary this month. To celebrate, come by the store on Thursday, October 21, from 5pm-8pm, for a grand tasting of wine and food. Some of the vendors which will be there include: Henriot Champagne, Classic Wine, Harpoon Beer, The Bread & Butter Co., Emmiez Croutons, and To Die For Dips. They will also be sampling cheese from their artisan cheese case. This should be a fun event, and I will be attending so hope to see you there.

Bodegas Grupo Estevez: Music For the Flor

Most of us have heard stories about people playing music for their plants, which allegedly helps those plants grow better. You might even have heard that some wineries play music in their vineyards, to help the grapes grow better. But did you know that some wineries even play music in their wine cellars, to improve how their wines age?

The family-owned Bodegas Grupo Estevez was established in 1974, though its roots extend back to 1809. They produce a full line of sherries and other liquors, having purchased a couple other bodegas including Marques del Real Tesoro and A.R. Valdespino. Grupo Estevez obviously has some significant wealth behind it, clearly evident from their opulent decor, extensive art gallery and large horse farm.

It is a beautiful bodegas, and many of the decorations have a sherry theme. You could spend hours just admiring the beauty of these various rooms. They also own one of the largest collections of Pablo Picasso artwork, about 100 pieces, outside of the Picasso museum.

They also own over 70 pure Spanish breed horses, beautiful creatures, which are sometimes entered into competitions.

For the horses, there is also a collection of antique carriages.

Now let us return to the issue of music and wine cellars. While wandering through one of the bodegas, we heard instrumental music, more classic music but with a Spanish flair, in the background, and it was not for our benefit. The bodegas has been studying the genome of flor, the yeast which is so important to the development of sherry. A few years ago, they decided to start playing music in the bodegas, music specifically designed for the flor, hoping to enhance their sherry. They are the only bodegas in Jerez which is attempting this unique effort.

There are a few wine cellars around the world which are using music in their cellars. For example, the DeMorgenzon Winery in South Africa, plays baroque music in both their vineyards and cellars. Several other wineries, from France to Chile, are doing similar programs. Though there have been studies on the positive effects of music on growing plants, the supporting scientific evidence for music in the cellars is much less.

Wine is a living thing, so if music can affect plants, there is the possibility it can affect wine too, though I suspect its influence on wine might be more subtle. I think sherry has more potential for influence, due to the flor. Flor is a living organism, very sensitive to temperature, humidity and more. Why wouldn't it also be sensitive to vibrations, such as that made from music? It seems logical its sensitivities would extend to music too. Though obviously much more study and research is necessary to determine the actual effects.

What are your thoughts on playing music in wine cellars?

I don't know if the music is responsible or not, but they are producing some quite delicious sherries.

The La Guita Manzanilla brand extends back to 1908. The term "guita" is old Spanish slang for "money" and the bodegas founder used to ask his customers, "Do you have guita?" After a time, the customers began referring to the bodegas as "La Guita." The term "guita" also means "cord" and a piece of cord was eventually added to the bottle, further strengthening the brand name. It is also one of the first Manzanillas to have the date of production listed on the back label, so you can determine its freshness. I really enjoyed La Guita, as it reminded me of lush green apples grown undersea, adding a certain and subtle briny character to the sherry. Extremely tasty, this would be a great food wine, especially with seafood.

The Valdespino Bodegas may be the oldest sherry bodega in the region, and the family has been producing sherry for 600-700 years. Once Alfonso the Wise retook the Jerez region from the Moors, he awarded his loyal knights with land and vineyards. One of those loyal knights was Alonso Valdespino, and his descendants carried on in the wine business.

The Valdespino Inocente Fino is a single vineyard sherry, from the famed Macharnudo vineyard, and is also one of the few finos fermented in American oak rather than stainless steel. Plus, it is aged for about eight years, in a system of ten criaderas, before release. It is crisp and pungent with an almond taste, with more flavor than many other finos I have tasted. A strong recommendation.

The Valdespino Amontillado Tio Diego is also from the Macharnudo vineyard, is fermented in American oak, and has been aged for about sixteen years before release. It had a compelling aroma, and the complex taste was nutty with rich caramel, vanilla and spice, as well as lots of acidity. It also possessed a long and pleasing finish, another sherry I would strongly recommend. The Valdespino Amontillado Contrabandista is medium dry, and has about 5% Pedro Ximenez added to the Amontillado. It is made similar to the Tio Diego except for the addition of the PX. It was smoother and rounder, but with the same excellent flavors and lengthy finish. The sweetness is very mild, and which of these two sherries you like will just be a matter of preference. You can't go wrong with either one.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly mention some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) To continue honoring National Breast Cancer Awareness Month, Fleming’s will raise a toast by hosting the “Women & Wine” Dinner. Fleming’s is proud to showcase the work of three leading women winemakers with this four-course dinner during their ongoing celebration of National Breast Cancer Awareness Month.

This wine dinner will feature a trio of handcrafted premium wines, each personally selected by Fleming’s Director of Wine Marian Jansen op de Haar, paired with a four-course menu created by Fleming’s Executive Chef Russell Skall:

Passed Hors d'oeuvres
Swiss Cheese Puffs
House Cured Salmon, Citrus Crème Fraîche, Crispy Wonton
2000 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
Winemaker: Cathy Corison

Appetizer
Butternut Squash Bisque with Danish Blue Cheese Fondue
Bacon Herb Bruschetta
2006/2007 Honig Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
Winemaker: Kristin Belair

Entrée
Rosemary-Scented Lamb Chops, Parmesan Risotto, Maple Roasted Parsnips, Red Wine Demi-Glace
2005/2006 Franciscan Magnificat Napa Valley
Winemaker: Janet Myers

Dessert
Caramel Pudding with English Toffee, Shortbread Cookies
Coffee and Tea

WHEN: Tuesday, October 19th at 6:30pm

COST: $95 per person

2) The Sherry Council of America has announced that The Broadmoor is the winner of the 4th U.S. Finals of the Copa Jerez food and Sherry pairing competition. Executive Chef Bertrand Bouquin and Wine Director Timothy Baldwin will travel to Jerez, Spain next month to compete against renowned international chef and sommelier teams for the Copa Jerez title.

"Our winning US team showed skill, pairing a Fino, an Amontillado and an Oloroso Sherry with extraordinary and delicate flavors in their dishes," said Sonia Smith of the Sherry Council of America. "We are thrilled by the strong showing of the restaurants in this competition, showcasing how well Sherry pairs with so many cuisines."

The Broadmoor won the U.S. title while competing in New York on October 6 against three other nationally recognized restaurants and chef/sommelier teams: The Bazaar, Casa Mono, and La Boca. Next month, the acclaimed duo will compete against teams from all over the world including the home favorite, Spain. They will present their three-course entry to a panel of expert international judges who will evaluate the food, the pairing and overall presentation.


3) For several years running, local chefs such as Jody Adams (Rialto), Steven Brand (Upstairs on the Square), Raymond Ost (Sandrine's), Will Gilson (Garden at the Cellar), Mary Dumont (Harvest), Jorge Lopes (The Blue Room), and Barry Maiden (Hungry Mother) have been using the rich palette of autumn flavors to create intriguing dishes for Flavors of Fall, an event organized by BostonChefs.com every November to support a local community-based organization. This year, Keith Pooler (Bergamot), Peter McCarthy (EVOO), and Michael Scelfo (Russell House Tavern) will also be joining them on November 8 from 5:30 until 8:30PM at Regattabar in the Charles Hotel for the seventh edition of this popular annual event.

The beneficiary organization this year is Community Art Center, which has been providing economically-disadvantaged youth in Cambridge opportunities to develop themselves artistically, academically, and socially since 1932.

The $65 per person ticket price-which goes entirely to support the good work of the Community Art Center-covers all food and beverages, not to mention the hearty helping of jazz from the Rollo Tomasi Quartet. New this year will be a single malt scotch tasting from renowned spirit maker The Macallan. As in the past, Brooklyn Brewery will be offering a selection of its seasonal brews, San Pelligrino will pour sparkling water, and J.P. Licks will offer its locally-roasted coffee. Wine offerings will include Mumm Napa sparkling and Brancott from New Zealand. Also new this year: Tickets are available for purchase online by going to http://Shop.BostonChefs.com.

4) Woodchuck Cider has released their first Private Reserve Label, a pumpkin hard cider. The Woodchuck Private Reserve Pumpkin is "a special edition high end cider" which a 6.9% alcohol content, the highest of any of their products. Production is limited to only two and a half hours on the production line. Crisp pumpkin, from local Vermont farms, is added to the apple juice at the finish.

I bought some at the Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose, and now have tried it on a couple occasions. I was unsure what to expect, wondering if it would remind me of their Fall Release, which was very spicy. But it was very different from the Fall Reserve, being more subtle and lacking the heavy spice. The pumpkin flavor was restrained and most evident on the finish. It was more on the dry side, with a touch of earthiness to it, reminding me more of their Dark & Dry style. I enjoyed the Pumpkin cider and could easily sit and drink a few bottles on a crisp autumn day.

As it is a very limited release, I strongly suggest you get some now before it is gone. You might also want to keep an eye out for more potential Reserve ciders in the future.


5) Gordon's Fine Wines & Liquors, in Waltham, will be holding "The Grand Wine Tasting Event" on October 30, from 1pm-5pm. Taste wines from all over the worlds including: Portugal, Spain, Argentina, New Zealand, Chile, France and Italy. Wine and champagne distributors will be on hand at 15 tasting stations, throughout the store, pouring wine and educating guests on the various grapes and varietals. Guests will also be treated to complimentary culinary tastings throughout the afternoon.

You can also take advantage of an exclusive (once a year) discount of 21% on over 4,000 wines throughout the store (net items are excluded).

I have been to their Grand Tasting events before and they usually offer an excellent selection of wines, at all price points. Just get there early as it tends to get crowded later in the day.

Free admission with RSVP to press@gordonswine.com