2017 Herdade do Rocim Amphora: Preserving The Talha In Alentejo

When you hear about amphora, skin contact, or orange wines, you're likely to think of countries such as Georgia, Italy and Slovenia. Portugal probably doesn't immediately come to mind although it has a two-thousand year old history with amphora wines. That may change in the near future if the Talha wines of the Alentejo region gain more attention and publicity.

Although I've known about talha wines for a few years, it was only recently that I've seen any available in Massachusetts. At Pamplemousse, in Reading, I found the 2017 Herdade do Rocim Amphora Vinho Tinto ($17.99) and I picked up a couple bottles because I was intrigued.

Wines fermented on their skins in talha (a Portuguese word for amphorae), has a history extending back two thousand years to the ancient Romans. This tradition in the Alentejo region has been maintained throughout the centuries though the advent of more modern wine-making techniques led to a massive decrease in its use. There has been a recent resurgence though in the use of talha, even leading to the creation of its own DO, the Vinho de Talha DOC. 

It states on their website, "According to etymologists, the term “talha” comes from the Latin “Tinalia” and that refers to large pot or vessel. A talha, therefore, is a pot that varies in its porosity depending on its intended use and the type of clay it is made from. It is used for fermenting grape juice and storing several liquids, especially wine and olive oil. The talha comes in a range of sizes and shapes, according to the potter’s working style and the local traditions where it is made. It is rarely stands taller than two metres in height and rarely exceeds a ton in weight; it can hold up to 2,000 litres of must."

The Herdade do Rocim estate was purchased in 2000 by the late Jose Vieira, founder of Movicortes, S.A., a holding company which specializes in agricultural machinery. Jose's daughter, Catarina Vieira, leads the operations of the estate, which is located in the Baixo Alentejo. The estate consists of about 120 hectares, with 70 under vine. The vineyards are broken down into 53 hectares of red grapes and 17 hectares of whites. Some of the planted grapes include Alicante Bouschet, Antão Vaz, Aragonez, Manteúdo, Moreto, Perrum, Rabo de Ovelha,  Roupeiro, Tinta Grossa, Touriga Nacional, and Trincadeira.

Their stated mission is "...to produce wines in a sustainable manner, respecting the social, cultural and natural matrix of the region." They are also low interventionists, such as only using indigenous yeasts. Some of their vineyards are certified organic while others are organic, though not yet certified.  They wish to emphasize the terroir of their vineyards, while maintaining sustainability. In addition, they wish to preserve the ancient tradition of the talha.

The 2017 Herdade do Rocim Amphora Vinho Tinto is a blend of indigenous Portuguese grapes including 50% Moreto, 30% Tinta Grossa, 15% Trincadeira, and 5% Aragonez. Both Moreto and Tinta Grossa are more unique to the Alentejo region so it is rare to see them in any other Portuguese wines. Such an intriguing mix of grapes! The vineyards are organic, though not certified, and the wine was fermented in the talha, without any temperature control and using indigenous yeasts. Afterwards, the wine was aged for three months in the bottle.

At only 12% ABV, the wine has a deep red color with an interesting nose of earth and red fruits, with a mild floral note. On the palate, it was fresh, with deep and complex flavors of plum, black cherry, and blackberry, an earthy backbone, and a mild tomato accent. The tannins were well integrated, the acidity was good, and the finish was fairly long. There was a certain uniqueness of its complex flavor profile, though it certainly reminded me of other Portuguese wines. This is a wine that would pair well with hearty dishes, a thick stew, a juicy steak, or a humble burger.

A fine introduction to Talha wines from Alentejo, though I definitely need to find more such wines to taste. And at its price, about $18, it is a good value for the quality, complexity and taste of this wine. As I've long and often said, Portugal offers some of the best wine values in the world.

Rant: Why Is Your Restaurant Closing? Bad Service

No one will disagree that running a restaurant is a difficult, and expensive, endeavor. They usually operate on razor thin margins and the potential of closure often looms like the Sword of Damocles. This year, we've seen some high-visibility closures while other, more under-the-radar restaurants, have closed as well. A number of articles have discussed some of the reasons for these closures, exploring the significant obstacles facing most restaurants.

I'm here to discuss one other contributory factor, bad service. With thousands of restaurants competing for customers, a restaurant needs to do its best not to turn customers away. They not only need to provide good food & drink, but their service needs to be good as well. And if there are service issues, the restaurant needs to correct the issue and find a way to make it up to their customers.

Otherwise, you could be turning away a customer who will tell their friends and family about their bad experience, or even write about it on Yelp or Trip Advisor. That single bad experience could easily lead to dozens of other people, if not many more, choosing not to dine at that restaurant. Can a restaurant afford to turn away all those potential customers, especially when avoiding that matter was fairly easy?

During the past week or so, there's been three service-related incidents which have come onto my radar, bringing this issue to the forefront for me. First, while attending a local convention at a hotel, I dined at the hotel restaurant twice for dinner. Both times, my dinner was not served in a timely fashion, and in one of those incidents, a server actually gave away my dinner to someone else. Such a long wait for relatively simple dishes. In both incidents, a manager merely apologized without any offer to otherwise remedy the situation, even when I explained this was the second time in two nights that this issue occurred.

Second, a relative of mine gave a restaurant recommendation to a friend, a suburban restaurant which I like very much. The friend is a local, who had never been to this restaurant before, and who frequently dines out. Unfortunately, when she went to the restaurant, the host was so rude to her that she chose not to dine there and will never return. And I'm sure she will tell her friends about her bad experience, and more potential customers will be lost. As they say, you never get a second chance to make a first impression.

Third, other friends dined at a high-end, and pricey, Boston restaurant, enjoying the food, but multiple service issues turned it into what I think of as a nightmare of an experience. An inattentive server, an unfriendly hostess, a large chip in a cocktail glass, an undue delay in service of one of their entrees, and more. And nothing, beyond a perfunctory apology, was done to compensate them for all these service problems. Not even a free dessert or cocktail. At such high-end restaurants, you expect superb service and the best places do their best to resolve service issues, to make the customer happy. This restaurant allowed these customers to leave unhappy, and they will probably never return, and will also spread the word of their negative experience. For one, I won't dine there after learning of this experience.

That restaurant could have easily helped to ameliorate the situation, maybe a comped round of drinks, or comped desserts, or comp the late entree. It would have been a small price for the restaurant to pay to make the customers happier. The customers would have likely appreciated the small effort and returned another time, giving the restaurant a second chance to show its best. Instead, the customers left unhappy and the restaurant will lose them and others. That isn't the way to run a successful restaurant.

I've had service issues at numerous restaurants, including some of my favorites. The difference is in how the restaurant handles the issue. Those restaurants which make the effort to fix the issue, to make the customer happy, are those which are quickly forgiven a temporary lapse. No restaurant is perfect and mistakes sometimes get made. Most customers understand this and are willing to make allowances, provided the restaurant does its part to make matters right.

This is a factor that is fully in the restaurant's control. They need to be proactive in dealing with service errors, to try to ensure a customer doesn't leave unhappy. As an unhappy customer may never return, and as they spread the word of their bad experience, you could lose more customers as well. Can you really afford to turn off all those customers, especially when the solution is relatively easy and inexpensive?

Service, Service, Service. Never forget its importance to the success of your restaurant.

The Mind Of A Sommelier: Jose Luis Betancur

(Check out my Introduction to the The Mind of a Sommelier series.)

Jose Luis Betancur is a Chilean native who immigrated to the United States at age 27 where he began working in the hospitality industry in Boston. When he relocated to New York City, he worked for the TAO Group where he was inspired by their commitment to hospitality. It was during his time working for TAO Group that he took a great interest in wine and spirits. Luis went on to take a program of wine studies at the Sommelier Society of America, and received his certification as a sommelier. He also work for Patina Restaurant Group where he established mentors with whom he also constantly communicates.

A few years ago, Betancur was relocated to Portsmouth, NH, with his wife. He worked as a Sommelier at Babbo Pizzeria e Enoteca in Boston, MA, for over three years. He was the head of beverage education for the staff at Babbo and regularly holds wine education classes for the public. For the past six months, he has served as Beverage Director at Tuscan Kitchen Seaport where he constantly develops and overseas the program there. In his spare time, he enjoys traveling and exploring wine regions around the world.

Now, onto the interview:

What term do you use to describe yourself: Sommelier, Wine Steward, Wine Director, something else?
Sommelier or “wine guy” when working the floor, but Beverage Director on my business card. 

Please give a brief description of the wine list at your restaurant. 
The wine list at Tuscan Kitchen is mainly focused on Italian wines with about 20% dedicated to wines from the rest of the world. 

What are your objectives with the wine list? 
My main objective is to have wines on the list that everyone can enjoy… this includes wines at every price point for every pocket and occasion. For example: wines with familiarity for business meetings and comfort dinners, as well as those that will make people excited to try new wines from different regions, grapes and unknown low production producers. 

How often does the wine list change? 
Understanding what is happening in the market and in the wine world is important in order to manage a profitable beverage program. The wine list changes seasonally and even more often than that if I find a wine with unique characteristics that I think would be a great addition to the program. 

Are there omissions on your wine list you would like to fill?
French wines are minimally represented since Tuscan Kitchen is more focused on Italian wines. I would like to add wine from some obscure and exciting appellations known for their food and wine pairing, such as Jura. 

How do you learn about new wines? 
I’m constantly learning from articles, colleagues, and distributors. I attend many seminars and wine tastings. I love working the floor where I also learn from my guests. 

What is your strategy on pricing the wines on your list?
The strategy is very simple: finding great quality wines in order to deliver great value, adventurous, and hard-to-find wines. 

What is the most common wine question asked by your guests? 
“What do you recommend from [a particular area] that will go great with my food?” Others will ask, “What’s your driest red or white wine?” I like when guests ask questions because this allows me to build conversation, making the experience memorable. 

What is the most common criticism you receive from guests about your list? 
I haven’t been criticized personally, but I do think that guests would like to see more classic well-known West Coast wines; we are always sourcing ideas from our guests. 

What is your greatest challenge as a sommelier? 
To continue learning and improve every day in order to deliver an extremely memorable experience not just to our guests, but also to our staff through team education. 

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the best value wines on your list? 
     Erbaluce Antoniolo: Erbaluce is an ancient grape native to Northern Piemonte. A grape that showcases floral aromas of ripe citrus fruit with a hint of white blossoms. Bone dry on the palate with ton of texture and electric nerves. A fun wine for those who like viogneir from France. The Antoniolo family owns over 14 hectares under the watchful eye of their pioneering mother, Rosanna.
     Mauro Molino Barbera d’Asti ‘Leradici’ (root of the family): This is an outstanding family-run estate producing only 12 hectares. This amazing medium-body red wine has great black, earthy and red juicy fruit with a hint of spice. This wine has a ton of character with a beautiful lingering bright finish. It’s a wine that can be enjoyed with pizza or charred steak. 

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the most unique wines on your list?
     Murgo Nerello Mascallese Rose traditional method: Nerello Mascallese is an ancient grape to Sicily, mainly vinified as a red still wine. In this case, The Scammacca del Murgo family has been producing this electric red fruity, yet crisp, bright traditional method sparkling wine for over a century. This wine is great to drink at any time but also pairs well with your favorite fresh seafood, fried calamari, or lamb.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of your favorite wines on your list?
     Cerretto Barolo ‘Brunatte’:  The Cerreto family is one of the largest landholders in the Piemonte region. Here, like with many other Langhe producers, identity speaks first. Brunatte is the name of the single Cru, where the grapes are coming from. This wine showcases innovation and the identity of the land. Red rustic cherries with a hint of sweetness mid-palate, with leathery round tannis of a classic Barolo and a great bright finish around the edges. A great wine to enjoy with your favorite truffle meal.

Is there anything else you would like people to know about your wine list, your work as a sommelier, or wine service?
The wine list at Tuscan Kitchen Seaport is always evolving. I take into consideration all aspects of the wine market and trends. I always aim to give guests a great experience. I do my best to deliver what we all look for in a dining out experience: the beauty of wine, and food.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) On Monday, March 25, starting at 6pm. enjoy an evening hosted by Clay Fritz, owner of California’s Fritz Underground Winery, at Abe & Louie’s Boston with a four course dinner paired with wine. The Fritz Winery Reception will begin at 6pm, with the first course served at 6:30pm.

Reception:
2016 Fritz Winery Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc
1st Course:
Crab Cake & Lobster Bisque duo with celery root remoulade
2015 Fritz Winery Russian River Valley Chardonnay
2nd Course:
Exotic Mushroom Strew with bone marrow & chanterelles
2014 Fritz Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
3rd Course:
Shallot Crusted Filet Mignon with mustard greens & Parisian potatoes
2015 Fritz Winery Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel
Dessert:
Layered Chocolate & Cogna Semifreddo with crème anglaise
Castello di Mangione Vin Santo Trasimeno

Cost is $125 per person. Reservations can be made by calling the restaurant at (617) 536-6300.

2) Legal Harborside celebrates crustaceans with crab specials from March 8-10 to benefit the Greater Boston Food Bank. Legal Harborside will be celebrating crustaceans while giving back by dishing out a trio of specials showcasing fresh lump crab meat in which proceeds will benefit the Greater Boston Food Bank, an organization that works to address food insecurity by providing healthy and nutritious food items to those who need it most.

The perfect way to celebrate National Crab Meat Day (March 9), seafood lovers can indulge in the following creations all weekend long:

APPETIZER
Legal’s Signature Crab Cake ($17.95)
served with remoulade sauce, and a seasonal salad
LIGHT ENTREES
Crabmeat Salad ($21.95)
avocado, tomato, cucumber, egg, salad greens, and lemon vinaigrette
Crabmeat Roll ($21.95)
fries and coleslaw

3) On Tuesday, March 12th, from 7pm-10pm, The Library at Explorateur Café will host an exclusive Glendalough Distillery Whiskey Dinner where guests will enjoy and learn about creative whiskey pairings from the award-winning craft distillery in Ireland. Explorateur’s Executive Chef Yousef Ghalaini and Glendalough Brand Manager Donal O’Gallachoir will team up for an exquisite four-course menu paired with craft whiskey and cocktails from Ireland’s first craft distillery.

Glendalough focuses on perfecting the ageing and finishing of their whiskeys in order to best accentuate the diverse and creative flavors, allowing each of the pairings to be unique and flavorful. With flavors from rich to nutty to fruity and floral, Glendalough whiskeys can be enjoyed with foods like Grilled Colorado Lamb and even a special dessert of Dark Gingerbread prepared by the Explorateur pastry team. Guests will begin their night with a special cocktail hour followed by a guided four-course meal with craft whiskey pairings.

The full menu for the evening is as follows:

1st Course
Curried Cauliflower Soup (Sunchoke chips, Aleppo Chili)
Paired with Glendalough Double Barrel
2nd Course
Salmon Crudo (Fennel Dust, Aji Amarillo, Winter Citrus)
Paired with Glendalough Wild Botanical Gin
3rd Course
Grilled Colorado Lamb (melted spinach, Moroccan-style cous cous, mustard jus)
Paired with: Glendalough 7-Year-Old Single Malt
4th Course
Dark Gingerbread (warm anglaise, whiskey spiced ice cream)
Paired with: Traditional Irish Coffee Crafted with Glendalough Double Barrel

Tickets are available for purchase on Eventbrite for $75/per person. Tickets include a cocktail hour and a four-course menu with craft whiskey and cocktail pairings. Reservations are required and seating is limited. Guests must be 21+ to attend.

2015 3 Rings Shiraz: Deep Roots In Australian Wine

It all began with wine education...

In 1929, Alan Robb Hickinbotham was appointed the Deputy Principal of the Roseworthy Agricultural College, the first agricultural college in Australia, founded in 1883. Seven years later, Alan was partially responsible for establishing a Oenology curriculum at the college which quickly became well respected and eventually responsible for creating numerous important leaders in the wine industry. In 1971, descendants of Alan purchased land, and started growing grapes, mainly Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, in what would become known as the esteemed Clarendon Vineyard.

Their grapes became quite well known and valued, some of the parcels sold to a few of the top wineries in Australia. They also produced some of their own wine, under various labels such as Hickenbotham Wines. Though they sold their Clarendon Vineyard in 2012, they still own other vineyards and are involved in multiple projects. For example, in 2004, David & Dena Hickinbotham and their son, Alan, decided to establish the 3 Rings brand, under III Rings Pty Ltd, choosing to work with famed winemaker Chris Ringland. The intent of this brand was to highlight Shiraz from the Barossa Valley, though they also make a Cabernet Sauvignon.

The vineyards for their 3 Rings Shiraz are an average age of 35 years, with soils that are primarily clay over slate bedrock. The grapes for their Reserve Shiraz are from a single vineyard, in the Kalimna sub-region of the Barossa, and the vines are an average of 85 years old, with soil that is mainly sandy loam over black clay.

I received a media sample of the 2015 3 Rings Shiraz ($19.99), which is made of 100% Shiraz, has an ABV of 14.9%, and only 6000 cases were made. I'm unsure of the oak treatment for this wine though clearly it was aged in oak for some amount of time. With a dark purple color, it possessed a nose of black fruits enhanced by spice notes. On the palate, it was a full bodied and muscular wine, with deep and complex flavors of plum, black pepper and raspberry, with a vein of pepper and other bold spices. However, it wasn't a jammy fruit bomb, and the alcohol was well balanced. The finish was fairly lengthy, the tannins bold but not overwhelming, and it has a spicy kick. The wine definitely would be best accompanied with a steak or similarly hearty dish.

This is a wine of power, but it isn't overpowering. The complex taste will please and with a juicy steak, the wine shines even greater. At $20, this Shiraz delivers a very good wine, worth the price. I definitely want to try their Reserve Shiraz, to experience that representation of Shiraz.