Wednesday Sips & Nibbles

Welcome to a special Wednesday edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently. As Thanksgiving is tomorrow, I decided to post Sips & Nibbles a day earlier.
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1) The ancient Mayans were master astrologers and timekeepers, tracking the stars and planets and developing a cyclical calendar that has proven even more accurate than its modern day predecessors. Thousands of years ago the Mayan’s predicted that the 5,125-year “Great Period” would end specifically on Friday, December 21st, 2012 at 11:11PM and the world as we know it would cease to exist.

In preparation, Olé Mexican Grill, located in an extremely thick walled building in Cambridge, will usher in the event with their “Doomsday Dinner & Candle Vigil” on Friday, December 21, from 5:30PM – 11:11PM (Extended Hours). In addition, and for those of us left, Olé will also hold a very special “Survivalists Brunch” on Saturday, December 22 from 10:30AM to 2:30PM.

At the Doomsday Dinner & Candle Vigil, in addition to the regular menu at Olé Mexican Grill, the restaurant will also feature some heart-stopping, extremely rich regional Mexican dinner specials prepared by Executive Chef & Owner Erwin Ramos including:
--Montezuma’s Last Meal – An 18oz Ribeye Steak stuffed with caramelized garlic and jalapeños. Served with three cheese mashed potatoes and spicy fried onion rings ($32).
--Cortez’s Flautas - Crispy rolled corn tortillas filled with lobster and topped with a creamy chipotle sauce ($12)
--Mystic Offering - Lamb shank served with sweet mole manchamanteles, yucca fries and black beans ($26)
--Chocolate del Diablo - Double chocolate bread pudding served with vanilla ice-cream and topped with cajeta (caramel) sauce and churro bites ($8)

Guests can pair their dinner with such libations as: Maya’s Offering Margarita – a Blood orange frozen margarita with rimmed spicy salt ($8), or they can try the “Triple Threat” - a flight of three artisanal Mezcals for ($11).

Guests should spend, eat and drink like it is the end of the world (because it is)! All above will be served as al a carte specials in addition to the regular menu. Reservations are highly recommended by calling (617) 492-4495.

Survivalists Brunch: For those still around the following morning, let’s face it …they’re going to be hungry and need a drink. Celebrate the start of a new era in time with dishes such as: Tortilla de Jaiba con Huervos, crab cakes with poached eggs cilantro hollandaise sauce, caramelized plantains and home fries ($12.95), Huevos con Chorizo, scrambled eggs with Mexican sausage, onions and tomatoes on corn tortillas with pinto beans, home fries and toast ($9) and Mexican Hot Cakes, a baked pancake topped with caramel sauce, fresh seasonal fruit, sugared pecan and fresh whipped cream ($9). Pair it all with a Mexican Bloody Mary (Same as a regular Bloody Mary except you need to show a passport), or discuss your plans for the new rebellion over a fresh squeezed orange juice!

2) This New Year’s Eve, raise a glass to new beginnings with China Blossom Restaurant & Lounge and Lots of Laughs Comedy Lounge, located within China Blossom, in North Andover. On Monday, December 31 from 9:30PM to 1:00AM, give a proper farewell to 2012 with a night of fine dining, live entertainment and laughs.

The 2013 countdown begins at 9:30PM, when guests are invited to feast on their favorite China Blossom dishes at an all-you-can-eat premier buffet with live-action cooking and carving stations, create-your-own noodle soups and a diverse selection of sushi.

After their last supper of 2012, guests can put on their dancing shoes & show off their signature moves to the beat of DJ Barry Mooney! Then a team of the best comics in Boston will take the stage for an all-star comedy show featuring Sal Votano, Christine Hurley and John David.

Guests will toast to the New Year with a complimentary glass of champagne and festive hats & noisemakers. Attendees won’t be starting off the New Year empty handed, as they have a chance to test their luck with raffles, prizes and giveaways all night courtesy of China Blossom and Lots of Laughs.

Please call 978-687-1789, or visit http://www.lotsoflaughsnewyearseve.eventbrite.com for more information or to purchase tickets. Tickets are $75 per person and include an all-you-can-eat dinner buffet, comedy show, live entertainment, giveaways and a champagne toast at midnight.

Special hotel rates of $110 are available at the Wyndham Boston Andover with transportation to and from the event and a full breakfast included in the room rate. Rooms must be booked online or under the group reservation “Lots of Laughs/ China Blossom New Year’s Eve.”

3) When your child is sick, it’s hard to keep up a normal daily routine, and even harder doing so during the holiday season. This is something that executive chef/owner of Tryst, Paul Turano, knows all too well, having spent time with his son at Boston Children’s Hospital’s Hematology, Oncology and Stem Cell Transplant Units over the past few years. Both Turano’s children have a rare auto-immune disease, and when his son was just two months old he had a bone marrow transplant at Boston Children’s Hospital that saved his life. This holiday season, Turano is giving back to the hospital that was there for his family by holding a holiday fundraiser for the Patient and Family Resource Room, a program that helps provide services to over 45 families whose children are being treated at the Boston Children’s Hospital Oncology and Hematology Center.

In cooperation with Boston Children’s Hospital, Tryst has set up a branded donation page online and will be encouraging holiday donations for the family resource program from December 1st through December 31. To donate, guests can visit the donation page online, or can donate at the restaurant where a QR code will be set up which, when scanned, will take guests directly to the page where they can make a donation on their mobile devices. In exchange for donating, Tryst will give donors a gift certificate to Tryst (for up to $20) with proof of donation.

“I can’t emphasize how much the Patient and Family Resource Room helped my family and I when we were going through this difficult time. It’s because of their team and services that we were able to maintain a sense of normalcy and routine, and I want to be able to give that back to other families that are going through it,” said Chef Turano, Executive Chef/Owner of Tryst.

Funded through donations from area businesses and families, the 6th floor Patient and Family Resource Room is staffed by a patient and family educator who can help patients and families learn about their medical treatment. The Patient and Family Resource Room also offers a space for patients and families to relax and connect with others going through a similar experience. Whether the donated money be used for a morning coffee at the local Dunkin Donuts, or towards purchasing a generic American Express donation that can be used towards gas, or parking (daily routines that are often overlooked), each donation will help parents regain a sense of normalcy in their lives. With the extra help of these funds, Tryst will be putting the holidays back in the hands of these families.

HOW: Donate on http://howtohelp.childrenshospital.org/events/page/Paul-Turano/tystsholidayfundraiser.htm or visit Tryst and scan the QR code (displayed throughout the restaurant). After donation, present your receipt at Tryst to receive your gift certificate (of equal value, up to a $20 value).
ADDITIONAL: Limited to one Tryst gift certificate per person per visit. Gift certificates cannot be combined with any other offer. To receive gift certificate diners must visit Tryst. Cannot be done online.

4) It’s time for The Beehive’s Holiday Brunch on Saturday, December 15, from 10am-3pm. Guests can count on tasty food and drink including specials from sponsor Bulleit Rye, seasonal music from some of Boston’s best, and plenty of holiday cheer.

From 10:30am-2:30pm, The Beehive will be filled with the sounds of the season as local musicians, Patrice Williamson, Sandi Hammond and Emily Broder, take the stage to perform holiday classics. Williamson, known for her soulful, gospel-inspired jazz, and a regular at The Beehive, will be joined by Sandi Hammond whose piano and guitar playing pop-folk blend will add wonderful sensitivity to the performance while Emily Broder, a versatile singer and actress, will bring the group full circle with her dramatic flair.

Couple all this merry music with brunch items like Extra Thick French Toast served with Chantilly cream and real deal maple syrup ($13), or the Beehive Eggs Benedict served with Virginia ham ($13.5) or smoked salmon ($14). Don’t forget about the kids! The Beehive’s “Little Bee’s” menu is perfect for little ones buzzing about. Children can choose from items such as Kiddie French Toast ($5), Scrambled Eggs & Toast ($5), or Free Range Chicken Fingers and Frites ($6).

Guests can toast the holiday season by sipping on cocktails from sponsor Bulleit Rye including the El Chicano, made with Bulleit Rye, Kahlua, Coffee Bitters and a Dash of Illegal Mezcal Joven, $12.50, or The Beehive’s famous Bloody Mary made with a secret house spice and pickled veggies, $11. Or, opt for seasonal sips such as the Cranberry Mojito, made in-house with drunken cranberries (marinated in rum and Cointreau) $12.50, the Kentucky Orchard, butter infused bourbon, fresh apple cider and St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram, $12, or the Queen Bee, vodka, fresh grapefruit, St. Germaine and champagne, $12.50.

Reservations are highly recommended. Regular brunch pricing and specials offered. No cover charge. Please call 617-423-0069 to make reservations.

5) Starting November 30, 80 Thoreau, located in Concord, will begin The Chef's Tasting Menu. Chef Carolyn Johnson and her team will prepare a one of a kind Five Course Tasting menu at the restaurant's Chef's Counter, which only has four seats! The Chef's Tasting Menu will be offered Thursday-Saturday, two seatings, at 6pm and 8:45pm.

The format will allow Johnson to feature luxury ingredients and those available in only small quantities (think heritage pig lardo or Concord maitakes), in her ever changing Chef's Tasting Menu. "This is the natural next step for our restaurant" shares Johnson. "We are excited because it gives us an outlet to do things beyond the menu. When I find amazing local product, but it's not in enough quantity to include on our daily menu, I can now showcase it here on our Chef's Tasting Menu." Wine pairings from the restaurant's cellar will give guests a chance to try selections otherwise not available by the glass.

The cost for this dinner is $75 per person, not including wine pairings, and Reservations are required by calling 978-318-0008.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently. **********************************************************

1)  What is the difference between Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism and how can it be applied to your everyday life? You can learn all you ever wanted to know about these mysterious, or not so mysterious, concepts, ideas and practices at the final seminar of China Blossom’s “Reality Check: China Style!” lecture series sponsored by the Asian Boston Media Group.

The series concludes on Thursday, June 28, from 6:30pm-7:30pm, with The Boston Buddha, Andy Kelly. Kelly will engage guests in a 101 comparison of modern Chinese religious beliefs and then lead attendees in a thought provoking discourse on how to be more mindful in daily life. Andy Kelley founded The Boston Buddha to teach individuals to be more productive in their careers and happier in their lives by incorporating meditation into their busy schedules. Kelly graduated from the Mindfulness-Based Stress Reduction Program (MBSR) at the Center for Mindfulness at UMass Medical School and is a certified instructor of Primordial Sound Meditation for The Chopra Center.

Choose from any of the authentic Asian dishes on China Blossom’s menu and enjoy a free lecture from one of New England’s masters of meditation. Get informed while you eat and learn about the truth behind modern Buddhist practices. Reservations are necessary as lectures are held in private dining room. Please call 978-682-2242 to make your reservation.

2)  Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar is introducing a new Bar la Carte Menu. Served exclusively in the bar, the menu offers Fleming’s guests six all-new dishes available any time, any evening. These are more substantial than appetizers or the typical “bar bites” found at many restaurants.

Russell Skall, Fleming’s Executive Chef, says. “This isn’t what you usually think of as bar food, instead these are distinctive dishes with a great mix of bold flavors and textures, served in generous portions meant for sharing. Even in the bar, we want to offer our guests a memorable dining experience.”

Each dish had to pair well with both wine as well as a variety of cocktails and beer, and be easily sharable. After a full year of testing and tasting six new items were selected. The new Bar la Carte menu includes: Salt and Pepper Shrimp ($15) served with crispy fried green beans, thin slices of lemon, and a caper-mustard dipping sauce; Prime Steakhouse Meatballs ($9) in a spicy peppercorn sauce with shitake mushrooms; Fleming’s Original Prime Rib Melt ($16) is slow roasted prime rib stacked on a toasted parmesan baguette with Swiss cheese, sautéed mushrooms, whole-grain mustard, horseradish slaw, and au jus for dipping; Filet Mignon Flatbread ($12) is topped with Danish Blue and Monterey jack cheeses, and red onion confit; Cedar-Roasted Mushroom & Artichoke Flatbread ($11) has Monterey jack cheese, roasted Christopher Ranch garlic, and roasted red peppers; and Fleming’s Housemade Burrata ($12) is served with charred cherry tomatoes, fresh wild arugula, and toasted garlic crostinis. One additional offering, the Prime Burger ($14; $6 before 7pm) is borrowed from Fleming’s celebrated “5 for $6 ‘til 7” menu. It is served with Wisconsin cheddar cheese, peppered bacon and Fleming’s signature onion rings.

3)  On Sunday, July 15, at 6pm, Chef Paul Turano of Tryst Restaurant in Arlington is collaborating with New England’s very own Root Beer company, Tower Root Beer, for the second annual Root Beer Dinner, celebrating the return of Tower’s 97-year-old classic soda recipe after a 30-year hiatus.

Founded in Somerville in 1914, Tower Root Beer evolved from a tonic company into a specialized Root Beer company. During the Prohibition of the 1920’s when Root Beer became the substitute for beer that was no longer available, their pharmacist- perfected recipe contributed to Tower’s early success and allowed them to withstand the stock market crash of 1929, even when the bank that held their working capital could not.

Spanning New England, Tower Root Beer grew into a well-known business before an unsuccessful merger and competition from the two major soda conglomerates forced them off the market. For the past 30 years, Tower’s recipe has sat under lock and key, before a third generation of the family decided to reestablish the family business after finding their grandfather's handwritten recipe.

Finally back, Tryst Restaurant is celebrating the return of the timeless drink with a classic, three course, $28 prix fixe dinner ($40 with optional cocktail pairings) by Chef Paul Turano featuring Root Beer inspired dishes and innovative cocktails inspired by the sweet treat, like the Tower of Manhattan, sassafras infused Bourbon with a Root Beer reduction and orange bitters, the Dark and Cloudy, featuring Goslings Black Seal Ginger Beer and Root Beer, or the Spiked Float, a mix of Tuaca and vanilla vodka added to the beloved Root Beer Float recipe. Reservations are required and can be made by calling Tryst at 781-7641-2227.

Wine-Sense: An Update, With Cookies

How time flies sometimes! This past Thursday, I stopped by Wine-Sense, a small, boutique wine shop in Andover, for their special Thanksgiving wine event. As I prepared to write about the event, I realized that I had reviewed Wine Sense back in June 2008, more than three years ago. It is probably time for an update, to determine whether my review is still relevant or not. A period of three years can sometimes see significant changes in a store or restaurant.

I am pleased to report that Wine-Sense is just as good as it was three years ago, and probably even better. Samanta, the store owner, is still as energetic and passionate as ever, bringing in a fascinating selection of more artisan wines, at all price points. She has not compromised in the type of wines she stocks and has grown a good following of regular customers. It remains a wine shop that any wine lover would enjoy, and they would likely find plenty to appeal to them.

It was cool to see there is now a local wine section, with wines from Still River Winery, Isaak's of Salem and  Zoll Cellars. Samanta also now carries five Manotsuru brand sakes from the Obata Brewery in Niigata. I am actually not familiar with this brewery so I was very excited to find them. I ended up buying a case of wines, an assortment including a couple sakes. It was easy to fill up a case, and I probably could have filled another case or two with other wines that intrigued me. Wine-Sense thus continues to receive my strong recommendation.

For the Thanksgiving tasting event, two distributors presented their wines and there was also a cheese table from Whole Foods Market (which had a great selection of tasty cheeses) and cookies from Miss Maura's Delectable Delights. Whole Foods did a great job with their cheese tray! I will showcase a few of my favorite wines from the tasting, as well as review the cookies.

Just in time for Thanksgiving comes the NV Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Amabile ($14). Forget that cheap Lambrusco you had when you were young, this is a very different wine. This wine is frizzante, possessed of a light effervescence, and is mildly sweet, with a good acidity. It has some pleasant red fruit flavors and should appeal to almost everyone at the Thanksgiving table. I know many in my family will really enjoy this wine so I bought a couple for the upcoming holiday. This would be great not only for Thanksgiving but for any other upcoming celebration or holiday.

The 2010 Tenuta dell Terre Nere Etna Rosso ($18.99) would also be an excellent choice for Thanksgiving, as well as everything from pizza to burgers. This Sicilian wine is made from the Nerello Mascalese grape, and is the introductory wine from this line. An elegant wine with delicious red fruit flavors, moderate tannins and hints of minerality. It has lots of character for the price and will bring to mind a fine Pinot Noir. I will be looking for the higher end wines in this line as this wine was so interesting.

The next three wines are all from the same Oregon winery, Anne Amie. The 2010 Anne Amie Pinot Gris ($18.99) is all estate grown fruit and was fermented only in stainless steel. It had a spicy taste, with crisp fruit flavors of orange, pineapple and lemon with a backbone of minerality. A compelling white wine, showing just how good the wines of Oregon can be.

I also enjoyed two dessert wines from this producer, Anne and Amie (package of two 375ml bottles for $55). Both are made from Late Harvest Muller-Thurgau, grown in their own vineyards, and they freeze the grapes at the winery. The Anne is fermented for seven months, intended to create a Vin Glace dessert wine. It was sweet, though not overly so, with delightful flavors of honey, apricot and ripe peach and sufficient acidity to balance the sweet. The Amie was maderized and fortified with Pinot Noir brandy to produce a Vin Doux Naturel dessert wine, though the additional alcohol was not noticeable. It had a sweeter taste, and presented some more nutty flavors, almost like a sweet sherry.

Miss Maura's Delectable Delights is a local business making specialty custom cakes, cookies and pastries. Besides the usual desserts, they also produce a line of gluten free cookies and pastries, and they brought two of their gluten free cookies to the tasting. There was the French Almond Cookie, a chewy almond cookie frosted with buttercream and dipped in dark chocolate, and the Lime in the Coconut, a light lime flavored shortbread cookie with a sweet coconut American cream filling.

These were both delicious, and you certainly would never know from the taste that they were gluten free. My personal favorite was the Lime in the Coconut, as the lime was very restrained and the creamy coconut taste was prominent. Chocolate lovers would really enjoy the French Almond cookie. Both had a very homemade feel to them and they should prove popular. My only concern is the high price, $20 per dozen, though I note their chocolate chip cookies sell for only $12/dozen. So maybe these are more for a special occasion.

Check out Wine-Sense and I am sure you too will be enamored with their carefully chosen, diverse selection of wines.

LaRosa's: Italian Sandwiches, Catering & Cupcakes

Sometimes you find delicious foods in the oddest of places. For example, I never would have expected to find such excellent, home-made cupcakes in an Italian sandwich shop.

When I conducted my Saké tasting at the Wine Connextion, the event was catered by LaRosa's, a relatively new restaurant in Andover. I was impressed with their food, especially the spicy Arancini. Larosa's took over the spot where Mawby's used to be, and I knew that I would have to check it out.

I did make a recent visit there, and chatted with part-owner Mike Cammarata and part-owner/Chef Paul LaRosa. They told me more about their restaurant, as well as some of their future intentions. The restaurant is very much a friendly, neighborhood restaurant. At lunch, nearly everyone that stopped by seemed to know the owners. Both Mike and Paul seemed very sincere to me, desirous of creating a great little place. Rather than accepting what they have, they still are working on ways to improve the restaurant.

This casual restaurant opened in October 2009 and you can see the main counter pictured above. They primarily serve sandwiches, salads and soups, either to eat there or take-out. You will also find daily specials that may include pizza and calzones. Sandwiches average $6.95-$7.95, soups are $2.95/cup & $4.95/bowl, and salads average $7.95. Most everything is made fresh on the premises.

There are over twenty sandwiches, ranging from tuna salad to Portobello, from eggplant parmigiano to buffalo chicken. They are generally served on braided rolls, though you can have a whole wheat wrap instead. The chicken parmigiana was very good, with plenty of chicken and a tasty red sauce. The special chicken and broccoli pizza was also quite delicious, with very large pieces of chicken and a nice, thicker crust.

Above, you can see some of the salads and similar dishes that you can order. Everything looks quite fresh and tasty. LaRosa's also sells prepared meals that you can take home and heat up. It makes it easy to stop by after work and pick up a prepared dinner. You can get items like chicken marsala, baked ziti, meatballs or chicken piccata. Meals generally cost $9.99-$10.99, and should easy feed at least two people. I bought the meatballs and they were quite good, with plenty of ground beef and seasoned well.

Chef LaRosa seems very capable of much more culinary diversity, and that can be experienced through his catering services. Their catering menu includes many more items than are available at the restaurant, and he can also make many items that are not on the catering menu. His catering service is thus very flexible and Chef LaRosa will work with you to develop almost any type of menu you desire. Listening to Chef LaRosa speak, his passion was evident and he was very excited discussing all of the different types of cuisines he enjoys cooking. As the restaurant matures, I suspect the menu may increase, allowing Chef LaRosa to showcase more of his skills.

Chef LaRosa makes most of his own pastries, some of which are pictured above, including a variety of different flavored cupcakes. The jumbo cupcakes ($4 each) are made fresh each day, and look quite enticing. They look as good as any found in the specialty cupcake shops. But what about their taste? Can such a sandwich shop really make good cupcakes?

I had some initial doubts, thinking that they might be too dry. Even many specialty cupcake shops seem to make too dry of a product. I can be a harsh critic concerning cucpakes. But instead, the LaRosa cupcakes were fantastic, moist and flavorful. The chocolate cupcake, topped with a white chocolate frosting, thoroughly impressed me. It was one of the best cupcakes I have tasted in some time. I bought some to take home and some of my family were similarly impressed. Though they cost $4, their large size and high quality warrants the price. I believe the rest of their pastries are probably equally as good.

Overall, the restaurant offers very good food at very reasonable prices. Chef LaRosa is very talented, and his culinary passion is reflected in his food. Grab a sandwich for lunch or a prepared meal to take home for dinner. Or partake of their catering services and see even more of Chef LaRosa's culinary skills. Plus, the cupcakes are highly recommended! I'll be back for sure and may report here again of what I taste.

LaRosa's
7 Barnard Street
Andover, MA 01810
Phone: (978) 475-1777

Saké Sunday Reviews

I always relish the opportunity to try a new Saké and recently had the pleasure to join Gary of Classic Wine Imports at Mootone, a Japanese restaurant in Andover, to taste a few. Gary was showing the owner of Mootone a couple Sakés, to see if he might be interested in carrying them. I was fortunate to be able to join them.

Mootone has a good-sized and diverse Saké list, and the owner personally tastes everything that he stocks. Each Saké must meet his own personal standards before he will sell it at the restaurant. He won't just accept the recommendation of a salesman. That is certainly a very respectable philosophy.

We also got to eat some sushi and tempura with the Saké. All of the sushi seemed fresh, good-sized and very tasty, from the maguro to the unagi. The tempura really impressed me though, possessing a very light and crispy batter, just the perfect texture. Far too many places use a heavy tempura batter which seems to defeat the intent of having a light, fried dish. I do often use tempura as a test for restaurants, as I have found those with an excellent tempura often do everything else well too. Based on the sushi and tempura, I definitely need to return to Mootone as I exect I will very much enjoy the rest of their cuisine.

The Daishichi Junmai Kimoto Classic is made in the Fukishima prefecture, from a brewery that was founded in 1752. It is one of the few breweries that produces kimoto-style Saké. This Saké has had its rice polished to 69%, and an SMV +3, making it slightly dry. It was also aged for an additional year prior to its release.

The taste? Think of shaved truffles atop risotto, a fragrant and earthy mix with a touch of rich creaminess. Because of its strong flavors, this is probably not something that will appeal to those new to Saké. But those who already enjoy it, should really enjoy this brew. Plus, it is very food friendly, really going well with the tempura.

The Atago No Matsu "Waiting Love" Honjozo is produced by the Niizawa Jozo Ten brewery, established in 1873, and located in Osaki, Miyagi. The rice, Yamada Nishiki, was polished to 60% and it has a SMV +7, making it very dry.

The taste? Think of a smooth, placid lake but where a fish waits at the bottom to strike. The nose is rather muted, with only faint hints of citrus, and the taste is smooth and clean. Except that there is some alcohol on the finish, striking out of the depths, yet that alcohol taste vanishes with food. With its mild, clean flavors, this is a good Saké for those new to it, yet you definitely should have this with a meal.

In the end, the owner chose not to buy either of these Sakés, though he enjoyed them both. He is currently seeking a certain style of Saké to replace one that he must take off his list as it is no longer available. So the hunt goes on.

For me, the Daishichi Junmai Kimoto Classic was the best of the two.

Wine Sense Anniversary Tasting

It is the season for wine tastings, especially large events, with 50+ wines. One of the first such events this season was the Third Anniversary Tasting event at Wine••Sense, an excellent, boutique wine store in Andover. There were over sixty wines available for tasting, with cheese and crackers for nibbling.

Overall, I sampled nearly all of the wines and found plenty of delicious ones. That was to be expected though as Wine••Sense has an excellent selection and carefully selects the wines they will sell. So, I will just highlight the wines that especially stood out, listed by distributor, those wines which most impressed me.

Vineyard Road:

2007 Domaine Nigri Jurancon Sec, France ($15.99): A unique blend of 80% Gros Manseng, 10% Camaralet, and 10% Lauzet. This wine has a nose of floral notes and tropical fruits. On the palate, it is crisp, dry and has delicious tropical fruit and honeysuckle flavors. It has a more unique flavor profile which really intrigued me.

2006 J.L. Chave Hermitage Silene, France ($35.99): This wine, made from 100% Syrah, was impressive, an excellent example of Old World Syrah. It had a subtle nose of black fruits and earthiness, which became more prominent on the palate. It was powerful but not overly tannic, full bodied and with a lengthy, satisfying finish. Excellent black cherry and ripe plum flavors. A complex and interesting wine.

Classic Wines:

2007 Paraiso Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands, California ($21.99)-This has long been one of my favorite, least expensive Pinot Noirs. It has rich fruit flavors, interesting spice notes and is fairly complex for the price. Plus, it has a moderately long and pleasant finish. It is not your typical California Pinot, but also not quite Burgundian either. But you won't find many other comparable Pinots for under $25.

2006 Patricia Green Pinot Noir, Oregon ($34.99)-This was a more Burgundian Pinot, with subtler red fruit tastes, some earthy flavors and a lengthy finish. Plenty of complexity, this is an elegant and satisfying wine.

Ruby Wines:

2007 Lazaret Chateauneuf du Pape, France ($37)-A perfect example of the best of Chateauneuf du Pape. An elegant wine with lots of character, well balanced and very drinkable, even though still young. This is a wine that should impress, and is well worth the price.

Adonna Imports:

2008 Tenuta Migliavacca Fresia, Italy ($12.99)-From the Piedmont, this producer was the first biodynamic one in the region. This is an excellent value wine, with delicious aromatics, great red fruits on the palate, and a satisfying finish. A very food friendly wine with good acidity, it also is smooth and enjoyable. Great every day wine with character.

2003 Massa Vecchia Querciola, Italy ($67)-This organic Tuscan wine is a blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Alicante. It is an amazing wine, complex, flavorful, smooth, and slightly earthy. This wine certainly evolved during the hours of the tasting, and I did get to taste it at a few different points. Over time, it opened up even more, becoming better and better. Yes, this wine is pricey but the price is justified due to the exceptional quality of this wine. Sublime!

Oz Wines:

2008 La Bergerie Sous La Tonnelle, France ($15.99)-This is supposed to be a blend of 80% Chenin Blanc and 20% Chardonnay. I really enjoyed this crisp, dry and clean white wine which had delicious tropical fruit, lemon, and grapefruit flavors. A perfect summer wine, as well as a very food friendly one.

Cafe Europa:

2003 Bressan Carat, Italy ($32)-This white blend has Tocai Friuliano and Ribolla. A very interesting smell and taste. Floral notes, honey, spice and mild tropical fruit flavors. Definitely has an exotic feel to it, and is a very compelling wine. A complex wine to savor slowly.

2004 Bressan Schioppettino, Italy ($42): Schioppettino is also known as Ribolla Nera. It had an explosive flavor, very concentrated dark berry flavors and elements of cigar box. Definitely a wine for wild game or steak.

Martignetti Wines:

2006 Isole e Olena Cepparello, Italy ($62.99): I have loved the previous vintages of the Cepparello and the 2006 was not an exception. It reminded me more of the 2005 than the 2004 vitage, being very approachable now though young. This is a great producer and I highly recommend their wines. Even though pricey, this is a wine I recommend as a superb example of what Sangiovese can produce.

Thanks to Samanta of Wine Sense for another excellent anniversary tasting.

Wine••Sense
166 North Main Street
Andover, MA
Phone: 978-749-9464

Box Wines? I See The Future

Box wines generally have a poor reputation in many circles. It is often thought only cheap, mass produced wines are placed into boxes and that may be largely true. I have not previously had any box wines that excited me. Boutique wine stores rarely, if ever, stock box wines.

So I was amazed when Samanta of Wine••Sense, a boutique wine store in Andover, advertised that she was holding a tasting of two box wines. Samanta has very discerning tastes, and is very particular in which wines she will stock in her small shop. So, if she was now selling box wines, there had to be a very good reason for such. That intrigued me so I had to attend the tasting.

I also learned that the box wines were being imported and distributed by Adonna Imports, one of my favorite distributors of small, artisan Italian wine producers. They certainly would not import the usual box wines. This had to be something special. Plus, these box wines would be sold in other top wine stores like Lower Falls Wine Co. and the Wine Bottega.

There are advantages to box wines. First, once you open the wine, if properly stored, the wine will keep fresh for several weeks. Second, the packaging is supposed to be more environmentally friendly in a few ways. For example, it weighs less than glass bottles so transportation expenses and fuel expenditures are less.

What is so special about these particular box wines? They are produced by Ferdinando and Mario Zanusso of I Clivi, who make organic wines from the Friuli region of Italy. I previously met both Ferdinando and Mario at tastings in May 2008 and March 2009, tasting much of their portfolio. They produce only about 2000 cases each year, and make some excellent and delicious wines. Check out my previous posts for reviews of their wines and more about their wine making philosophy.

Why did this small producer decide to make box wines? When Mario Zanusso was in the U.S. this past spring, he asked Jeannie and Eileen of Adonna Imports if they would be interested in selling box wines. Apparently, after carefully choosing grapes for their wines, Ferdinando and Mario used to sell the rest of their grapes in bulk to other wineries. Instead of selling all of those grapes, they decided to use some to make box wines, using a different label. The new label is Sant' Andrat, the name of the commune where the Galea and Brazen vineyards are located.

They have begun with two different box wines: 2008 Poderi Zanusso Sant' Andrat Bianco and 2008 Poderi Zanusso Sant' Andrat Rosso. As you can see from the photo at the top of the post, the boxes are very plain cardboard with a label. The boxes certainly won't impress your guests. But the boxes were intended to be that way, to indicate the wines are natural. Each box contains three liters of wine, the equivalent of four regular 750ml bottles, and costs $28.99. That breaks down to about $7.25 per bottle, certainly inexpensive.

The Bianco is made from 100% Tocai Friuliano, not the type of grape you might normally suspect to be in a box wine. But it is a top white grape in the Friuli region, and I think it makes for an interesting and delicious wine. This Bianco had a very aromatic and floral nose with an intriguing taste of peach, melon, spice and some mineral notes. It was crisp, smooth and had a fairly long finish. I really enjoyed this wine and think it is an excellent value. It may not be as complex as their other wines, but it certainly has much more complexity than most other wines at this price point.

The Rosso is made from 100% Merlot, though it is not your typical Merlot wine. The nose was rather muted and the red fruit flavors were also restrained. There were hints of spice and leather, with moderate tannins and a long finish. It almost seemed to me more like a young Cabernet. This wine would be best paired with food rather than on its own. Though I liked this wine I did prefer the Bianco, though there were others at the tasting that preferred the Rosso.

I bought several of these box wines and Wine••Sense is probably sold out now. But Adonna Imports will be getting another shipment around the end of September and hope to keep it in stock through the holiday season. Look past the box and embrace these quality, organic Italian wines. I highly recommend them and consider them an excellent value. Hopefully, more artisan producers will follow the lead of the Zanussos and produce such quality box wines. I think I see the future of wine.

Rose Tasting

Walk into almost any wine store right now and you will see Rosé wines being prominently displayed. It is like a sign of summer, though you can enjoy Rosé any time of the year. It is a very food friendly wine and often just plain delicious.

I recently attended a Rosé tasting at Wine••Sense, a boutique wine store in Andover. Samanta, the owner, opened seven different Rosés, including five from France, one from Italy and one from Spain. She sells others at her store as well. Out of the seven, three particularly stood out to me.

The 2008 Domaine de la Bergerie Rosé de Loire ($12.99) is a blend of 70% Groslot and 30% Cabernet Franc. Groslot, also known as Grolleau, was a new grape to me, a red grape grown primarily in the Loire region and used mainly for Rosé. It has a dark pink color with a nose of strawberry and spice. It was dry with restrained red fruit flavors and a bit of floral notes. There were none of the common Cabernet Franc vegetal tastes. This is a good example of a French Rosé and a style I generally prefer.

The 2008 Domaine du Chateau d'Eau Rosé ($12.99) is a blend of Syrah and Cinsault. The vineyard and winery are organic and biodynamic. This wine had a bright pink color and an enticing smell of strawberry with hints of watermelon. On the palate, it is dry with nice red fruit tastes and mineral notes as well. A crisp, refreshing wine which would be perfect for a hot summer day.

The top winner of the tasting for me though was the 2008 Ameztoi Rubentis Txakolina ($19.99), from the Basque region of Spain. It is a blend of 50% Hondarribi Beltza and 50% Hondarribi Zuri and has a light effervescence to it. When I was in Spain, I visited a winery that made Txacoli, both white and red, and so it has a special place in my heart. This wine had a light pink color with an alluring smell of bright red fruits. On the palate, it was fruity yet dry, crisp and with that light fizz which can be so refreshing. And at only 11% alcohol, you can drink a few glasses and won't feel woozy in the sun.

What are your favorite Rosés?

Wine••Sense
166 North Main Street
Andover, MA
Phone: 978-749-9464

City/Town Recommendations #10

This is my tenth post of a planned series noting my personal recommendations for food/wine places in various towns and cities. This time I am touching on a few different cities and towns, including Acton, Andover, Belmont, and Braintree. This list might be expanded and/or revised in the future but I will note when it changes. Be sure to check my extended reviews of many of these places elsewhere on my website.

Acton

Wine Stores:

Acton Wine & Spirit Co.
305 Main St. (Route 27)
Acton, MA
Phone: (978) 263-9060
(Very good wine store, nice selection, and weekly wine tastings)

Andover

Wine Stores:

Wine••Sense
166 North Main Street
Andover, MA
Phone: 978-749-9464

Restaurants:

Yama
63 Park Street
Andover, MA
Phone: 978-749-9777
(Good Chinese and Japanese cuisine)

Glory
19 Essex Street
Andover, MA
Phone: 978-475-4811
(Creative, seasonal and delicious cuisine.)

The Cupcake Boutique
13 Elm Street
Andover, MA
Phone: 978-475-4429
(Tasty, moist cupcakes)

Belmont

Wine Stores:

The Spirited Gourmet
448 Common Street
Belmont, MA
Phone: 617-489-WINE
(Excellent wine store, great selection, free weekly wine tastings)

Restaurants:

Vicki Lee's Cafe
105 Trapelo Road
Belmont, MA
Phone: 617-489-5007
(Very good cafe and bakery)

Braintree

Wine Stores:

Bin Ends
236 Wood Road
Braintree, MA
Phone: (781) 817-1212
(Excellent wine store with great prices)

I Clivi Wine Tasting: Mario Zanusso

We do not make these wines, they are made only by nature.

That is a paraphrase of the words of Mario Zanusso, the son of Ferdinando Zanusso, co-owner and winemaker for I Clivi, an Italian vineyard and winery. It is their wine making philosophy and has successfully led to the creation of some excellent wines.

Recently, Eileen Wright of Adonna Imports brought Mario Zanusso to Wine••Sense, Samanta's boutique wine store in Andover, to showcase some of their new wines and vintages. Last year, I had the pleasure of meeting his father, Ferdinando, and tasted some delicious and impressive wines. You can check that prior post for additional background information about I Clivi and to see my previous tasting notes.

In short, Mario and Ferdinando make organic wines, from old vines, in the Friuli region of Italy. They are a very small producer, making only about 2000 cases each year. Mario was very out-going, personable and obviously passionate. Though his father possesses that same passion, he is more introverted, seemingly almost shy at times.

Mario stated that great wine is made from three elements: soil, grape and climate. He excludes the wine maker from that equation, believing in minimal intervention in wine making. These are intended to be wines of purity and character and I think they succeed. They use little oak for their wines, generally only for their reds, preferring to let the fruit shine forth. Part of the reason for this is that they are trying to establish a standard for their terroir. They lack a lengthy history like France so they must work at gathering evidence for the nature of their terroir, to determine the type of wines they best come forth from that terroir. The use of oak could mask the flavor of the wine, concealing the effects of the terroir.

The first wine of the tasting was the 2004 Clivi Brazan Bianco. I had previously tasted the 2002 vintage and Mario mentioned that 2004 was a cold, but interesting, vintage. This 2004 Brazan was made of all Tocai Friuliano. Previous vintages had small portions of Malvasia Istrianna but the winery is moving more toward single varietal wines. This wine surprised me as it seemed fairly different from the older vintage. The 2004 actually reminded me of a Manzanilla Sherry because it had a strong, salty flavor. It had plenty of acidity and was a very elegant and intriguing wine. This would make a great food wine and certainly is more unique.

Next up was the 2004 I Clivi Galea Bianco. I have previously tasted the 2003, 2002, 1999 and 1997 vintages so it was fun to taste another vintage, to see how vintage can matter to the taste of a wine. This 2004 Galea was made of 100% Tocai Friuliano though previous vintages had small portions of Verduzzo. This was an earthier wine but with delicious tropical fruit, spice and honey flavors. It was a full bodied wine, fat in your mouth. Compared to previous vintages, I think this was a bigger wine with more fruit flavors than spice or honey. Another excellent wine for food.

The 1999 I Clivi Galea Bianco was also at the tasting. This was my favorite wine of the previous tasting and it was still superb. I even bought more of this wine as it was just so delicious, a complex wine with plenty of character. What really fascinated me was that Mario recommended this wine with both duck and lamb. I thought this wine would pair great with foie gras but had not considered duck or lamb. A white wine might not be your first choice either for those dishes, but it may be worth a try.

Next up was a new wine they were now producing, the 2004 Bianco Degli Arzillari Venezia Giulia I.G.T. This is a field blend, mostly old vine Verduzzo Friulano, an indigenous grape that is most well known in sweet wines. This was made to be dry wine though. It had a dark yellow, almost orange, color and smelled most like apricots but will a tinge of floral notes. It is an almost austere wine but with interesting exotic spice, peach and lemon flavors. It had a long finish and certainly had a more unique flavor profile. It was a wine that made me think, trying to discern all the flavors within it, savoring how different it was from many other whites wines.

The red wines were next, starting with the 2000 I Clivi Galea Rosso, which I previously tasted and enjoyed. This was followed by the 1999 I Clivi Galea Rosso, which was said to be a younger wine than the 2000 vintage. Younger? Well, 1999 was very hot so this wine, only recently released, seems like a younger wine than the 2000. It did seem a brighter wine, more fruit forward with delicious cherry and raspberry flavors. Yet you can see the potential of this wine, that there are depths to it that have yet to develop. There are hints of spice and it already has a fairly long finish. I am very interested how this will evolve over time.

The wines of I Clivi are well worth seeking out. They give you the opportunity to taste wines that have minimal intervention, which are indicative of terroir. The wine makers are very passionate and truly seem to care about producing quality wine. These are the type of wines that really ignite my own passion and I hope you take a chance and try these wines.

Wine Sense: Second Anniversary Tasting

This past Saturday, I and some members of the North Shore Winers attended the special Second Anniversary wine tasting at Wine••Sense in Andover. The tasting was divided into two sessions, one from 12-3pm and the other from 6-9pm, each session having different distributors and wines. I attended both of the sessions and had a lot of fun as well as tasting some excellent wines.

I should also note that the local Whole Foods supplied cheese, crackers and dip for both sessions. There was a nice variety of delicious cheeses which certainly went well with some of the wines.

The first session garnered only a small crowd which was nice as it gave you more opportunity to talk with the distributors about their wines. The second session was much busier but I still was able to talk a bit with the distributors. My friends enjoyed themselves and many of them left with some new wines.

Here are some of the wines that most impressed me.

Adonna Imports:
Eileen always has some great wines and this was no exception. I had a few of the wines before, though not their new vintages. Let me highlight a couple of the wines.

2007 D.J. Vajra Moscato D'Asti ($19.99) from Piedmont, Italy: An appealing fruity nose with a nice taste of citrus and only a slight sweetness and a light effervescence. It was a refreshing wine which would make a nice apertif or a palate cleanser. Another excellent wine from this winery.

2003 Massa Vecchia Rosso ($57) from Tuscany, Italy: This is a wine that really needs to breathe for a time before you drink it. I had the opportunity to taste it soon after it was opened, an hour later, and then 7-8 hours later. I was not crazy about it soon after it was opened but it blossomed over time and then I got the full impact of this wine, all of its complexity and flavor. Lots of red fruit with hints of spice, vanilla, leather and more. A very long and smooth finish. This is a Wow wine but you need to be patient.

Arborway:

2005 Schroeder Family "Saurus" Malbec ($16.99) from Patagonia, Argentina: There is an interesting story behind the name of this wine. When digging on their property, they found a large dinosaur fossil. They were permitted to build their vineyard on the property if they protected the fossil so they built a museum around it. This wine is very good, with nice red fruit and vanilla flavors. It is a smooth wine with mild tannins and a bit lighter than many other Argentina Malbecs.

2004 Richard Hamilton Gumprs Shiraz ($19.99) from the McLaren Vale, Australia: This is another wine that is not like many other typical Aussie Shirazes. It is a light red color and has a delicious taste of cherry and raspberry, yet it is not a fruit bomb. It reminds me more of a Rhone wine, a bit more light and subtle than what is often seen in Australia.

Cafe Europa:

2005 Laumann Family Cambiata Tannat ($32) from Monterey, California: Albeit a bit pricey, this is an intriguing wine made from Tannat, which is more often found in France and Uruguay. The Tannats I have had before are using quite tannic, big bold wines. Yet this was a much milder Tannay, with nice dark fruit flavors and a touch of spice. It was more like a smiple Petite Sirah.

2004 Bravanate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon ($50) from Howell Mountain, California: A big, full-bodied spicy Cabernet with well integrated tannins and a very long finish. Plenty of complexity and simply a delicious wine. This was a favorite of many of my friends too. An impressive wine that is reasonably priced considering its high quality.

Martignetti:

2007 Alois Lageder Muller Thurgau ($19.99) from Alto Adige, Italy: An interesting white wine with citrus flavors, some mineral notes and a nice crispness to it. There is a hint of some more exotic spice that complements the wine.

2007 Bedell Cellars, First Crush ($14.99) from Long Island, New York: A very good value wine that is 54% Merlot. It is smooth, with very mild tannins and plenty of lush red fruit flavors. An easy drinking wine perfect for pizza to BBQ.

Oz Pacific:

2006 Contat-Grange Maranges Rouge ($28) from Burgundy, France: A very nice young Burgundy with prominent fruit rather than any earthiness. A light wine compared to many California Pinots.

2007 Guy Allion Le Poira Malbec ($14.99) from Loire Valley, France: A value wine able to compete with any Argentina Malbec. This wine has interesting berry flavors, including a bit of blueberry, and mild tannins. A smooth, easy drinking wine with lots of flavor.

Vineyard Road:

1999 Geantet Pansiot Gevrey Chambertin Les Poissenoits ($70) from Burgundy, France: As expected, this was a Wow wine, a top notch Burgundy. The nose seemed a bit musty but there was none of that in the taste. A complex melange of red fruit and earthiness with hints of cinnamon. A very long finish, well integrated tannins and just a smooth feel to it. A wine to contemplate as you drink.

1991 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($75) from Sonoma, California: Another Wow wine that also begins with a musty nose. A subtler Cabernet, more like an older Bordeaux. Tame tannins, complex berry flavors with dominant cherry, and a very long finish. Another wine to contemplate, to savor slowly with close friends.

If you have not been to Wine••Sense before, then I do recommend you check it out. They have a diverse and interesting selection of wines, including all of the ones I just mentioned.

Wine Sense: 2nd Anniversary Tasting

On Saturday, September 20, Wine••Sense in Andover will be celebrating their Second Anniversary with a grand tasting event. As I have mentioned before, Wine Sense is a cool boutique wine shop with a very passionate owner, Samanta. This event should be lots of fun and it is free.

There event will is separated into two parts, an earlier event from 12pm-3pm and a later one from 6pm-9pm. Each part will have different distributors so you could attend both parts and still not taste the same wine. Plus, even if you have gone to a tasting at Wine Sense before with these distributors, they should all have different wines than any they have showcased before.

The distributors include
Jonathan Tagliani - Martignetti
Andrew Bishop - OZ Pacific Wines
Eileen Wright - Adonna
Angus Smith - Vineyard Road
Todd Verhoeven - Cafe Europa
Sean Driggs - Arborway
Dan Hirschkop - M.S. Walker

There will also be food at this event. I will be there with a group of fifteen to thirty members of the North Shore Winers. I hope to see you there as well!

Serene Restaurant

Over the weekend, I had dinner with a few people at the Serene Restaurant in Andover. This was my first time there and I knew little about it. It came recommended by one of my dining companions who had chosen the spot for our dinner.

Serene is owned by Sally Fabian and she was working as the hostess on the night I was there. Their head chef is Carlos Penate. The restaurant is located on the second floor above a Starbuck's though they occupy the third floor as well. The second floor has a long bar, numerous high tables and a smaller dining room in the back. The third floor has another dining area and the restrooms. The second floor has large windows allowing you to look down and out at Main Street. A casual and fun ambiance.

Their wine list is small though diverse with a fair share of Italian wines. Prices seem reasonable, especially on some of their higher end wines where the markup seems low. We began with an Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico ($41), a pleasant and fruity Chianti with hints of chocolate. We ran into a problem though when we tried to order another bottle as that was the last one. I tried to order a few other wines and they did not have those either. They really need to update their wine list, or restock.

Serene is open for both lunch and dinner. For dinner, they have a number of more traditional Italian dishes as well as dishes with only a hint of an Italian flair. Your choices include Appetizers, Soups, Salads, Risotto, Pasta and Dinner Entrees. Most of the Pasta and Dinner Entrees range from $15-$25 so it is reasonably priced.

Before our appetizers came out, we received some fresh dinner rolls with roasted garlic, oil and olives. The bread was very good and it was nice to get all of the accompaniments as well. A very good start.

We began our meal with some Garlic Bread with Cheese ($3.50), a couple Apple, Goat Cheese, and Walnut Salads ($7.50) and the Mussels "Chowder Style" ($11.95). There were five pieces of thin garlic bread topped with melted cheese and they were good. The salads were quite large, plenty of fresh ingredients and had a very nice taste. The Mussels were supposed to have pancetta, baby red potatoes, and roasted corn in a light cream and chive butter sauce. The bowl was quite large and is was like I had chowder topped by a bunch of mussels in the shell. The potato was different though, actually being sweet potato. The mussels were tender and flavorful, with a good soup though the sweet potatoes did not seem to work as well as a regular potato might have. The sweet potatoes were sweet and tasty, but I am not sure they really went as well as they could have with this dish.

For our entrees, one person got the Pumpkin Ravioli appetizer special ($9.95). The ravioli had a maple flavored sauce and the dish was quite large for an appetizer. My friend raved about the ravioli, saying they were excellent. Another of my companions ordered the Tuscan Shrimp Risotto, which also has Roasted Butternut Squash and sautéed pancetta ($23). Another large dish of food which my companion enjoyed very much. My wife ordered the Roasted Frenched Pork Chops ($23) which are topped with prosciutto and pine nuts, drizzled with a basil cream sauce and served with roasted potatoes and grilled asparagus. She ordered it medium rare and the chef had our server confirm that she wanted it cooked that way. Seems they were worried about illness from undercooked meat. It was a large and tasty dish though it did not impress her. I had the Chicken Saltimbocca ($24) which has Prosciutto, Sage and Asagio cheese rolled in tender chicken breasts and served with angel hair. I got a big plate of food and it was very good. The chicken was tender, the pasta cooked just right and the sauce was nice.

For dessert, we ordered a passionate fruit cake and a tiramisu cannoli. Both were excellent and eagerly devoured by all of us. The cannoli was probably the favorite of the two.

Service was very good. You certainly get plenty of food here at a reasonable price. The food is good, though not exceptional. It is a place to sate your appetite and have a good time. Maybe I can't help but compare it to Bistro 5, another Italian restaurant I have recently dined at. Bistro 5 is an exceptional restaurant that sets a high bar for its competitors.

Serene Restaurant
12 Main Street
Andover, MA
Phone: 978-475-7711

Mawby's: Lunch in Andover

When I think about lunch, many times I want a place that sells a good sandwich. And I don't want to have to pay too much. Yesterday, I decided to try Mawby's, an intriguing and eclectic restaurant/store in Andover.

Mawby's is located just off of Rt.28, at 7-9 Barnard Street, and there is plenty of street parking nearby. When you walk into Mawby's, you may be initially taken aback by its eclectic nature. They seem to sell a little bit of everything. First, there is plenty of food, from their deli, where you can buy sandwiches and salads, to racks of gourmet foods, including European chocolates. They also sell cakes and pastries. Second, you will find wine, most that seems to sell for under $20. Third, you will find many unique gift items, from fancy cutlery to dishes, from glassware to antiques. Check out the stuffed animal heads on the walls too!

Much of the store has a British feel to it, from the names of their sandwiches, to the decor, to the items they have for sale. The owner, Chris Perry, is half English and decided to to emphasize that aspect in Mawby's. It is the type of store that is very fun to poke around and check out everything.

If you want lunch, there is plenty to entice you. The sandwich menu is very interesting, with numerous gourmet ingredients in appealing combinations. Plus, many of the ingredients are organic. Nearly all of the sandwiches cost only $7-10. Consider a couple of the choices available:

The Exmoor Beast ($9.95): Oven roasted North Devon style roast beef, organic free range turkey, Berkshire heritage bacon, imported crumbled Gorgonzola, crisp romaine lettuce, tomatoes, red onion, and terragon mayonnaise on a sourdough baguette.

The Duke Of Edinburgh ($7.95): Fresh organic, free range turkey breast, country sage stuffing and fresh New England orange-cranberry relish on toasted French bread. Lettuce and tomatoes on demand.

They also have six types of burgers, including Wolfe's Neck beef, buffalo, Kobe beef and a veggie burger. The burgers range from $8-14 and come with a bag of potato chips and a pickle.

I decided to have a burger, though I wanted the buffalo with the toppings of the Wolfe's Neck sandwich. The usual buffalo burger is the Teddy Roosevelt Wilderness Hunter Burger ($8.95), a half a pound of very lean ground range roaming buffalo, grilled onions, and Wyoming chipotle pepper sauce on a roll. But I wanted it like The Winston Churchill Burger ($8.95), half a pound of organic Wolfe's Neck neef topped with English farmhouse cheddar, Berkshire Heritage bacon, and a tad of empire building barbeque sauce on a sourdough roll.

They were very accomodating and I felt that they would have made any changes that I had requested. Everything is made to order so they can easily make substititions if necessary. Plus, the menu has a list of items you can add to any sandwich or salad. Maybe add some Vermont goat cheese ($1.25) or even Smoked Duck Breast ($4).

The burger was delicious! It was good-sized, juicy and had plenty of flavorful toppings. The roll was obviously fresh and very soft. I was very pleased with the burger. It came with a bag of Cape Cod potato chips, good local chips. They also had fresh brewed iced tea which earns them points from me.

You will also find on their menu soups, nine different salads, and three grilled flatbreads (kind of like a mini-pizza).

I spent a little time chatting with the owner, Chris Perry. He was very personable and it soon was obvious that he is a passionate individual. He is dedicated to ensuring Mawby's is the best that it can be. He is doing something he loves and I think it shows. This is the kind of restaurant I enjoy, a nice local place run by a passionate owner that has very good food.

Chris mentioned that the restaurant will be expanding in the fall. It will start opening for breakfast, lunch and dinner. I will be keeping my eye open for that and will report back to my readers when that happens. Until then, I will keep stopping by for lunch when I am in the area. I hope that you too will check it out.

Wine-Sense: Pre-Fourth Summer Bash

Looking for some summer wine choices? If so, you should have been with me last night.

Last evening, I led a group of about fifteen people from the North Shore Winers to a special Pre-Fourth Summer Wine Tasting Bash at Wine••Sense in Andover. I recently reviewed Wine-Sense and found it to be an excellent, boutique wine store with a passionate and energetic owner.

Andrea Alexander and Jonathan Tagliani, both local distributors for different companies, were present and showcased some of the wines from their respective portfolios. This included whites, roses and reds. Something for all tastes.

I began the tasting at Jonathan's table, who had three Roses and one White.

First up was the 2007 Domaine Raffault Chinon Rose ($15) from the Loire Valley of France. It is made form 100% Cabernet Franc and has an alcohol content of 12.5%. It has a light pink color. Now, I am not a fan of Cabernet Franc. I find that most Cabernet Franc has a green pepper flavor that turns me off. And I did smell a little green pepper on the nose and also tasted it. The green pepper did mix with some red fruit, predominantly strawberry, but it is not a combination that I like. But, it was a very popular wine with others at the tasting. If you like Caberent Franc, then you will likely enjoy this Rose.

Next, there was the 2007 Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol Rose ($30) from the Provence region of France. This estate uses organic agriculture and will be certified as such later this year. The wine is about 90% Mourvedre with a little added Syrah and Grenache. It has an alcohol content of 13.5%. The Bandol region makes some incredible Rose, especially ones that age well. Domaine Tempier is considered by many to be the best estate in Bandol and I do very much enjoy their Rose. So how does Domaine de Terrebrune measure up? Actually, extremely well. The Rose is a very pale pink color with an intriguing nose of fruit and a touch of spice. It is a full-bodied wine with a complex taste of red fruit and spice. It is a wine to savor, to reflect on its quality. It has a long finish and I think it is comparable to Domaine Tempier. This is an excellent Rose and one I would highly recommend.

The 2007 Chateau De Trinquevedel Tavel Rose ($20) is also from the Provence region. This is a Rhone blend with primarily Grenache and it has an alcohol content of 14%. It has a medium pink color, almost a light red. On the nose, it has lush fruit smells which also are reflected on the palate. Vibrant strawberry, raspberry and watermelon flavors. There also seems to be a bit of pepper in the wine, especially on the finish. I very much enjoyed this wine and would also recommend it.

Lastly, there was the 2007 Seebrich Riesling Kabinett ($15) from Germany. With an alcohol content of only 10%, this is certainly a lighter choice. And once you taste it, I am sure you will enjoy it too. It has a nice crispness to it with only a hint of sweetness. It presents more of an apricot flavor with hints of tropical fruit. This is the type of wine to pair with spicier foods, maybe some Thai or Indian. Many people seemed to enjoy this wine and I would also recommend it.

It was time to move on to Andrea's table where she had three Whites and two Reds.

I began with the 2006 Stefano Massone, Vigneto Masera Gavi ($13) from the Piedmont region of Italy. This white wine is made from 100% Cortese and has an alcohol content of 11.5%. This dry wine has good citrus flavors with a touch of minerality and some nuttiness, especially on the finish. I liked it but it did not really impress me. For the price though, it is a good buy.

Next, there was the 2007 Salneval Albarino ($13) from the Rias Baixas region of Spain. I am a big fan of Albarino, especially from Spain. This wine, with an alcohol content of 12.5%, is an excellent example of Albarino. It has delicious citrus flavors with a touch of honey. It is a very crisp and refreshing wine. This is the perfect type of wine to pair with seafood. And this is an excellent price for an Alabarino that tastes this good. I highly recommend this wine.

The 2006 Staatlicher Hofkeller Wurzburg Abtswinder Altenberg Scheurebe Kabinett ($21) is from Germany. This wine must have one of the longest names in the world. The wine is made from the Scheurebe grape and comes in a bottle that reminds you of Mateus. Though in Germany, that shaped bottle is sometimes known as a "goat sac" bottle. The wine has an intriguing nose of spicy grapefruit. On the palate, it has plenty of acidity with an almost sweet taste combined with citrus, especially grapefruit. Again, this is a wine that some people really loved. For myself, I am not as keen on grapefruit so I was not a big fan of this wine. Though if you enjoy that flavor, you will definitely love this wine.

On to the reds, we began with the 2006 Coltibuono Cetamura Chianti ($12). This is a simply, easy drinking wine. It is a light wine with a fruity nose and plenty of cherry flavors on the palate. It has decent acidity and would make an excellent BBQ wine. A good value choice at this price point that should please many.

The final wine was the 2006 Domaines Barons de Rothschild Aussiers Rouge ($18). This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Merlot and Syrah and has an alcohol content of 13.5%. It is made in 90% staineless steel. It has an enticing nose, very aromatic fruit. Though there was some good red fruit flavors, I also detected a touch of green, almost unripe flavor. So I did not care as much for this wine.

Overall, a very good tasting and my fellow Winers all seemed to enjoy. Many of them did buy wine so they found wines that they enjoyed. If you have not been to Wine••Sense yet, you definitely should check it out.

Stoneham Sun: Andover Exploration

My new column of "A Passionate Foodie" can be found in the July 2 issue of the Stoneham Sun newspaper. This is a weekly column that concentrates on reviews of local restaurants though it may also touch on a few other food and wine topics.

The new column has been published today and is also available online. The new column provides a couple recommendations for stops while exploring Andover. The first recommendation is for The Cupcake Boutique, a place to find excellent cupcakes as well as other baked goods. The other recommendation is for Wine-Sense, a small, boutique wine shop. There are other interesting places that you can visit in Andover but that I did not mention. I just wanted to whet your appetite a bit, to show you some potential, and to have you explore and find other foodie destinations.

If you have any questions or comments about my column, feel free to add them here.

Dine with passion.

Italian Summer Wines

As I mentioned previously, this past Thursday I visited Wine••Sense in Andover for a tasting of some Italian summer wines. Eileen Wright of Adonna Imports presented four different Italian wines, including two whites, a rose and a red. As usual, these wines from her portfolio were excellent choices.

First up was the 2005 Castel Noarna Nosiola ($18). I have had this before recently and it is an exceptional white wine. The Castel Noarna winery is located in the Trentino region of Italy. This wine is made from 100% Nosiola, an indigenous Italian grape that is the only native white grape remaining in Trentino. It is starting to see a slight resurgence as some good wines have been produced from it. And this wine showed that potential. This wine was fermented in stainless steel and then aged for nine months in neutral oak barrels. It has an alcohol content of 12%. It had a pale yellow color with an intriguing nose of spice and minerals. On the palate, it was crisp with a nice melange of flavors including grapefruit, mineral notes, and spice. It gave off an exotic feel and definitely tantalized my taste buds. This is a wine I would highly recommend.


Next was the 2006 Valle d'Aosta Petite Arvine, Institut Agricole Régional ($24). This wine is produced by a winery that is also a research institute. Petite Arvine is a white grape that grows primarily in Switzerland and the Valle d'Aosta region of Italy. Interestingly, the picture on the label is a small section from a much larger painting. All of their wines uses different sections of the painting, Eileen told us that it took them almost three years to get their label approved by the FDA because of the woman's breasts. Certainly seems rather silly when you consider some of the other labels out there, plus that this label is from a more famous painting. I enjoyed this wine. It had a nice citrus smell and those citrus flavors blossomed on my palate. A bit of grapefruit, lemon and orange peel. It was very crisp with touches of minerality as well. It had a long finish and definitely makes a nice summer wine. Another wine I would recommend.

We then moved in to the 2006 Massa Vecchia Rosato ($46). Fabrizio Niccolaini runs Massa Vecchia, a very small winery which is just 8.6 acres. It is planted with at least a dozen indigenous Italian grapes, both red and white. All vines are also at least 35 years old. In addition, they practice biodynamic agriculture. This Rosato is certainly very different. First, the color is a deeper red and not the usual pink that you would expect. By looking at it, you would not consider it a Rosato. The wine is made from 60% Merlot and 40% Malvasia Nera. It is also aged in chestnut barrels rather than oak, giving it a different taste. This is a wine you should let and breathe for a bit as it has a rather funky nose initially that mellows out over time. Initially on the palate, it is also a more brash wine, almost a discordant mix of tastes. Yet with some time, it smooths right out, presenting an appealing melange of dark fruit flavors, some earthiness and a touch of minerality. This is not a typical Rosato. It is pricey so it is more a special occasion wine.

Finally, we had the 2005 Mandino Cane, Dolceacqua Superiore "Arcagna," ($27). This wine comes from the Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC in Liguria. The winemaker, Mandino Cane, is elderly and he recently sold off this vineyard for this wine so this will be the last vintage. The wine is all organic and is made from the Rossese grape which generally makes savory, woodsy red wines. This is a light colored red wine with a fruity nose and packed with plenty of complex flavors. It has a delicious lingering finish and is light enought for a summer BBQ. It should pair well with many different foods. Another fine choice.

Wine••Sense: Bottled Poetry

While persuing Local Wine Events, an excellent site for listings of upcoming wine events all across the country, I noticed a listing for Wine••Sense, a wine store in Andover. I had never heard of this wine store before so I checked out their website for more information. Their site is essentially a one-page newsletter, posting a list of upcoming events along with some very basic information about the store.

On June 19, Eileen Wright of Adonna Imports was presiding over a tasting of some Italian summer wines. I am a big fan of the wines of Adonna Imports and also know they generally only distribute their wines to small, more unique wine stores. So I decided to attend the tasting and check out the store.

Wine••Sense is located on North Main Street (Rt.28), just a short bit north of The Cupcake Boutique. But Wine••Sense is nestled in the back of a small commercial complex so it is not easily visible from the road. It is close to the Whole Foods Market so you can use that as a landmark. You can even park in the Whole Foods Market lot.

The store itself is small, a single room, which their business card describes as "0.005574 hectares of meticulously-chosen wines from around the world." Most of the wine shelves looking like the photo above, presenting the wines so it is easy to read their labels. That makes browsing simple. There is a small refrigerated unit and they will be adding more refrigerated units in the near future. I estimate they have about 200-250 different wines in stock. In the middle of the store is an island where the tastings are held, and also where some of the wines are stored. They also sell some Riedel stemware.

Samanta Turner is the owner of Wine••Sense and is a petite woman filled with passion and energy. She is also very personable and I spent a little time chatting with her about the store. It has been open for a couple years. Samanta generally stocks the wines she enjoys drinking. She does not carry the mass-produced wines, the "usual suspects" as I say, which are available in many other wine and liquor stores. Instead, she seeks out quality wines that may be a bit less known. She is conscious of her customers though and tries to keep the prices of the wines at a reasonable level.

I was impressed by her selection of wines. Many of her Italian wines are from the Adonna Imports portfolio so I know they are generally excellent wines. I was familiar with some of the other wines as well, and those I knew were very good choices. It is definitely more of a boutique winery, with a more intriguing selection than a local package store. These are wines that most people would enjoy, if they gave them the chance. Though they may seem unfamiliar, they are wines very much worth drinking. Prices for their wines are comparable to prices in other similar wine stores. So they have not marked up the price of their wines.

I was also impressed by Samanta's passion. She has been involved in the food and wine industry for about fifteen years and she obviously has a great love of wine. And this wine store is where she can do what she loves and where she can continue learning about wine. As I have said repeatedly, it is such passion which is a primary ingredient in all of the best places. She is not pretentious in the least and seems to embrace the joy and fun of wine. It was a real pleasure to talk with her. I will be returning to this store for future tastings as well as just to check out what new wines they have available.

I will be discussing the Italian summer wines tasting in a separate post but do want to mention a couple things here as well. First, a few members of North Shore Winers also came to this tasting with me and they all enjoyed this wine store. Second, as it is a small store, tastings could get crowded if a large number of people showed up. Thursday was not a problem though as there were only about 12-15 people present at any one time.

This is definitely a wine store which I recommend. If you are in the area, stop by and check out the store. Or make a special trip to Andover to visit the store and hit some of the other sites as well, such as The Cupcake Boutique.

Wine••Sense
166 North Main Street
Andover, MA
Phone: 978-749-9464

The Cupcake Boutique: A Return Visit

I recently gave a rave review to The Cupcake Boutique in Andover. Yesterday, as I was going to attend a wine tasting in Andover, I decided to stop once again at The Cupcake Boutique. Would the cupcakes still be as good? And what other pastries or baked goods would they have available that I could sample?

Above, you can see their intriguing cupcake display. As it was later in the day, a couple hours before closing, they had limited quantities of some of the cupcakes though still a decent selection. There were a few new cupcake flavors including Pink Lemonade and Vanilla with Caramel. At the very top of the display, though it is hard to see the details, they have some brownies and chocolate chip cookies.

I bought some cucpakes, mostly flavors that I had not tried before, including Triple Chocolate, Mocha, Vanilla with Caramel, and Pink Lemonade. I also got another Coconut Snowball, my favorite. When I got the cupcakes home, they had sit for a bit so the frosting was soft and creamy rather than the firmer consistency they have when they have been in the refrigerator. I appreciated the frosting even more in the softer condition. The cupcakes were all moist and flavorful. I did not have any problems with dry cupcakes. And the different flavors were all very good. Though none can still compete with the Coconut Snowball. So The Cupcake Boutique has shown consistency in their product.

I also tried a Brownie ($2) and a Chocolate Chip Cookie ($1.50). The brownies are thin but wide so you receive a good-sized brownie. Brownies are usually either fudgy or cakey and this brownie was the fudgy type. In fact, it is very moist and chocolatey. If you love chocolate, then you are going to very much enjoy this brownie. It is very good alone, though probably even better topped by ice cream. The Chocolate Chip Cookie definitely did not resemble the usual such cookie. Rather than a plain brown cookie, there are swirls of chocolate throughout this cookie, giving it more of a speckled look. They did more than just add some chocolate chips to this cookie. The cookie was soft, moist and quite chocolatey. An interesting variation of the usual such cookie.

The brownie and cookie showed me that they don't just do cupcakes well. All of the desserts I have tried so far have shown moistness, usually indicative of freshness and quality. They have all tasted delicious and certainly would appease any chocolate craving.

I continue to highly recommend that you check out The Cupcake Boutique.

The Cupcake Boutique
10 Post Office Avenue
Andover, MA
Phone: 978-475-4429