Castello di Selvole: Traditional Chianti Classico?

Guido Busetto, the owner of Castello Di Selvole winery, couldn't tell me whether their Chianti Classico wines were crafted in a traditional or more modern style. Many other writers had asked him that very question but to Guido it was not an important question, or at least a question that he did not consider when producing his wines. His goal is simply to create wines without changing their essential characteristics. To me, his wines reflect a traditional style and that is something I like.

On the Friday before the Boston Wine Expo, I attended a media lunch at Gennaros' 5 North Square, where Chef Marisa Iocco now showcases her culinary skills. Representatives of two Italian wineries were at the lunch, both which would also present their wines at the Wine Expo. Marina Thompson, of Thompson International Marketing, stated that many Europeans view Boston as a city that is very European in style, possessed of elegance and culture. That is why many European wineries like to come to the city and present their wines. It feels much more like home to them than a huge and busy place like New York City.

Castello Di Selvole winery is located in the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany, about 12 kilometers from the city of Siena. The winery possesses about 100 acres of vineyards and 23 acres of olive trees, so that they produce both wine and olive oil. They produce four different red wines and I had the opportunity to taste all four of them, three of them with lunch and the other at the Wine Expo. Guido began his wine career in Bordeaux, eventually deciding to purchase a vineyard in Tuscany. Guido was personable and knowledgeable, a passionate advocate for his wines. However, his wines stand well on their own, persuasive through their aromas and taste.

We began our lunch with a dish of Burratina Caprese, a delicious, creamy ball of burrata. With this dish, our first wine was the 2009 Castello di Selvole Chianti Classico (about $20). It is made from 100% Sangiovese, aged in French barriques for about 7-9 months and then aged for an additional three months in the bottle. With a rich, medium red color, it had an enticing aroma, a melange of cherry, spice and earth. On the palate, it was a powerful but elegant wine, with restrained tannins and a rich, deep flavor of black cherries, spice and a certain rusticness. An excellent food wine, this is the style of Chianti Classico which I prefer to drink. Lots of character for the price, I would recommend this wine.

The next course was Manicotti Italo-American, a crespelle filled with ricotta, spinach and nutmeg. Despite the spinach, I actually enjoyed this dish, with its nice blend of flavors and textures. For this course, the wine was the 2009 Castello di Selvole Chianti Classico Riserva, made from 100% Sangiovese, aged for 18 months in French barrique and 6 months in the bottle. This wine is just starting to be imported into the U.S. so it does not have a price yet though likely will be around $30 or so. This possessed everything that the basic Chianti Classico possessed, but with greater depth and complexity as well as a lengthier finish. This was my favorite wine of the lunch, an excellent example of the best of Chianti Classico, and it receives my highest recommendation.

The final entree was a hearty Veal Ossobuco, slow braised with fall vegetables. Tender, flavorful meat that went well with the hearty wines. I was initially concerned about the next wine, a Super Tuscan, the 2003 Castello di Selvole Berullo. It is an equal blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, which was vinified in concrete and spent 18 months in French barrique and 6 months in the bottle. I thought that maybe this wine might be more international in style, because of the Merlot and Cabernet France, but that turned out not to be the case. It had an inky dark color and a restrained nose, yet on the palate it was a more powerful and strong wine, yet was not jammy or over the top. There also were not any vegetal/green pepper flavors from the Cabernet Franc. Instead, there were pleasing tastes of plum, black cherry and black fruits, with a spicy backbone, nice acidity and a lengthy and satisfying finish. It too receives my hearty recommendation.

At the Boston Wine Expo, I had the chance to try the 2010 Selvole Sangiovese Toscano, made from 100% Sangiovese and which sees only stainless steel. It was light, fruity, and simple, an easy drinking wine that would be great with pizza or pasta. A very affordable value wine.

Look for the Castello di Selvole wines on your local wine shop shelves, especially if you enjoy more traditional Chianti Classico wines. They are excellent food wines, reasonably priced and should impress most wine lovers.

2012: Favorite Wine Related Items

What were some of my favorite wine related items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2012. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, Top Ten Wines Over $15 and Top Wines Over $50 lists. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Wine Related Items, which are not specific wine recommendations. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more wine related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Discount Wine Stores: Once again, this past year has been an economic challenge and wine prices have been on everyone's mind. Consumers want bargains, excellent value wines which won't stretch their wallets. You can buy the cheap wines which can be found in almost any wine store or instead, you can seek out excellent, value wines which put to shame those cheap wines. Certain discount wine stores provide not only excellent prices but also an interesting selection and good service. I want to highlight two such stores which do an especially good job, places where I go to seek bargains: Bin Ends in Braintree and Wine Connextion in North Andover. These stores have remained consistent over time, offering diverse and interesting bargain wines and you won't go wrong checking either of them out.

Favorite Suburban Wine & Cheese Store: Though I have visited the Concord Cheese Shop in prior years, I hadn't been there for at least a year or so until visiting it a couple of times this past year. I was reminded once again why it is an excellent destination for wine, cheese and gourmet foods. The wine selection is diverse, prices are good and you will find some wines here that many other stores do not carry. And all of their cheeses, a myriad of dairy pleasures, will please everyone. This is another shop you should patronize.

Favorite Wine Stores: This is a list of nine wine stores which consistently impress me with their selection and service. Each shop is worthy of your patronage and wine lovers should make the effort to visit these places if you have not done so yet.
Lower Falls Wine Company in Newton Lower Falls.
Winestone in Chestnut Hill.
The Reserve Bin in Foxboro.
Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose.
Vintages: Adventures in Wine in Belmont.
Spirited Gourmet in Belmont.
Wine-Sense in Andover.
Wine Bottega in Boston's North End.
Central Bottle Wine & Provisions in Cambridge.

Favorite Wine Magazine: For the fourth year in a row, Decanter, a British wine magazine, continues to impress me with its extensive coverage, including many less common wine regions, often ignored or marginalized in other wine publications. Plus it has an amusing wine cartoon in every issue. This is a magazine that consistently delivers fascinating articles and I always look forward to each issue. If you are not reading it, you should be.

Favorite Wine Book: Last year, my Favorite Wine Book was the first volume of The Drops of God, a Japanese manga, a comic book, about wine. Besides entertaining, the book also educated people about wine, helping to reduce the intimidation factor. In addition, some of the language it uses, especially in describing wine is quite poetic. During the past year, three more volumes have been released and once again I have selected it as my Favorite Wine Book. Check out my reviews of Volume 2, Volume 3 and New World. Every wine lover should read this series. Unfortunately, more volumes may not be published unless the books start generating more sales. Give this book a chance and you won't regret it.

Runner-Up Favorite Wine Book: The New York Times Book Of Wine offers an excellent selection of over 125 articles, written by about 28 different authors. It is not a collection of boring tasting notes but rather many thoughtful pieces on a great range of wine topics such as Spanish Sherry, the Japanese Koshu grape, serving alcohol to your children, Txakolina, Madeira, and natural winemaking. These are articles that everyone can enjoy, from those new to wine to the knowledgeable wine geeks. These articles will educate and entertain, and may even getting you thinking about wine in different ways.

Favorite Introductory Wine Book: For someone new to wine, Kevin Zraly's Windows On The World Complete Wine Course is an excellent choice. It presents a nice overview of the world of wine without deluging a reader with too much technical information. Though I have some issues with the presentation of certain wine information, it is still one of the best introductory books available. It is a fine starting point for a wine education.

Favorite Wine Dinner, Domestic: Indigenous and uncommon grapes, compelling wines, superb food, and great people all combined to create an exceptional wine dinner. Legal Harborside hosted Alessio Planeta of Planeta Wines, which owns six wine estates on Sicily. From a Sparkling wine made from Carricante to a red made with Nerello Mascele, many of the wines were fascinating and delicious, while the food, such as Ricotta Gnocchi with truffles and the Lobster Soup were amazing. It was fun and informative, tasty and stimulating.

Favorite Wine Dinner, International: This was an easy choice for a meat lover such as I. While in Chianti Classico, I had the honor of dining at the Antica Macelleria Cecchini, the renowned restaurant of Dario Cecchini, the signing butcher of Panzano. Dario is an extraordinary butcher and offers a prix fixe dinner with five courses of beef, some of the best beef you may ever eat. The steak tartare was simply prepared yet was outstanding, showcasing the taste of the quality beef and not hiding it behind lots of other ingredients. Plus, Dario is a true showman and made it an enjoyable experience. I could have dined here every night while I was in Tuscany. If you visit Tuscany, you must dine here at least once.

Favorite Single Winery Tasting: For the second year in a row, the same winery is involved in this category, though the location was different. As I mentioned last year, the wines of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region can be amazing, and Chateau La Nerthe is a stellar producer from this area. Last year, I tasted the wines at a superb lunch at L'Espalier and this year the lunch was held at Bistro du Midi. From the compelling Tavel Rosé to the 2009 Chateau La Nerthe "Clos de Beauvenir" Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, the wines did not disappoint. They paired well with delicious dishes such as the Coral Infused Chitarra Pasta with Maine Lobster. These are wines worth a splurge.

Favorite High-End Wine Tasting: The Vintus Tour presented 26 wineries, from all over the world, showcasing many higher end wines that reflected terroir, many which are also sustainable, organic or biodynamic. This was a stellar collection of wines, presenting many unique wines which impressed me, and it was a pleasure to get to chat with many of the wine makers. As it was a portfolio tasting, closed to the public, it was not overly crowded so you had the opportunity to take your time with the wines and ask the wine makers questions. Several of these wines ended up on my Top Wine lists.

Favorite Private Wine Tasting: My friend Adam, of Wine Zag, hosts a monthly blind tasting event which is always fun and interesting. Recently, he held a fascinating blind tasting of 90+ Cellars wines against a group of wines he handpicked to compete against them. This was an intriguing challenge and the results were enlightening. Plenty of great people attended the tasting and everyone enjoyed themselves. Unpretentious and casual, it was the type of wine tasting which would appeal to wine lovers of any knowledge levels. I look forward to Adam's next blind tasting event in January.

Favorite Wine Trip, International: Though it was also my only international wine trip this year, my visit to the Chianti Classico region was excellent, with great food, wine, scenery, people and more. Compared to other wine trips I have taken, it was certainly one of my favorites. My trip generated a dozen blog posts and several of the wines I tasted ended up on my Top Wine lists this year. Tuscany is so beautiful and the people were extremely nice. The food was often simple yet made from high quality and delicious ingredients. And so many delicious wines, from traditional Chianti Classico to compelling Vin Santo. It is a region I highly recommend.

Favorite Winery Visit: While in Chianti Classico, I was fortunate to get to visit the Isole e Olena winery, owned by Paolo di Marchi, the Philosopher-Peasant of Chianti Classico. I have met Paolo before but this was my first visit to his winery and it lived up to my expectations. You can read my thoughts in a two-part post (Part 1 and Part 2), but in short, the wines were superb, Paolo was fascinating and I learned much about the winery and the Chianti Classico region in general. I could have easily spent the entire day with Paolo, soaking in his knowledge and experience, while enjoying his amazing Cepparello.

Favorite Mega-Wine Event: Due to their size, large wine exhibitions can have their issues, especially due to the great crowds they generate. My favorite this year of these mega-events was the Mohegan Sun Wine Fest. Besides wine, they also present spirits, beer, and cider as well as plenty of food. The aisles between the tables are wide, there are two floors in the Grand Tasting and they seem to accommodate the crowds better than other events. In addition, besides a Grand Tasting, the Wine Fest has other excellent events such as an Elite Cru Tasting and a Celebrity Chef Dine Around. Several wines from this event ended up on my Top Wine lists this year and I look forward to this event next year.

Favorite Local Wine Bloggers: Locally, there is only a small number of blogs dedicated 50% or more to wine, being far outweighed by hundreds of local food blogs, some which occasionally touch on wine. But of that small group, there are a number who deserve praise for their devotion to wine. I see many of these people at local wine events and they have become good friends too. Kudos to Adam of Wine Zag, Robert of The Wellesley Wine Press, Rob of Fringe Wine, Jason of Ancient Fire Beverage, Todd of Vermont Wine Media and Marie of The Life of Vines. Please check out their wine blogs.

Top Wine Controversy: During the past year, I have ranted, usually on Mondays, about a variety of wine issues. But one of the most popular rants addressed the question of why a number of restaurant reviewers ignore wine in their reviews? It befuddles me that a restaurant review, which should comprehensively address the offerings of a restaurant, would ignore an important element such as the alcohol program. In my rant, I used the Boston Globe to illustrate this issue, showing how their main reviewer often ignored or gave short shrift to the wine and alcohol programs of most of the restaurants reviewed during the summer. I never received any response but plenty of others voiced their agreement that reviewers did a disservice by ignoring restaurant beverage programs.

Favorite Wine History Post: History intrigues me and I very much enjoy researching and writing histories about wine, though I often try to reach quite far back into history, to see the true roots of a wine and its region. This year, I wrote a four part series on The Origins of Port, extending back to the Phoenicians and proceeding through the formation of the nation of Portugal. Many other histories of Port begin much later, like during the 17th century but I felt the true origins lay many centuries earlier. I learned much in my researches and hope my readers benefited from it too.

Favorite Local Wine News: In 2011, a new law allowed local wineries to sell their wines at farmers markets and festivals. I saw that as very positive for local wineries and a later study showed its success. In 2011, sales of Massachusetts wines increased by an amazing 66%, primarily due to their ability to sell wine at the markets and festivals. Great news for local businesses during these tough economic times. Let us hope their success continued into 2012.

Kudos For Sherry Love:  I love Spanish Sherry, from Fino to Oloroso, Manzanilla to Palo Cortado. Unfortunately, that places me in a tiny minority as Sherry, especially dry Sherry, is very much a niche beverage in the U.S. But locally, Sherry is gaining more love, especially by two restaurants, Tres Gatos and Taberna de Haro. Tres Gatos, in Jamaica Plain, now hosts Sherry Tuesdays, where you can sample sherries with pinchos. Taberna de Haro has recently expanded their restaurant and now carries 27 different Sherries, and will be adding more too. Both restaurants deserve big kudos for their passion and support of Sherry.

New Wine Job: Last February, I started a new endeavor, a part time job at the Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose. It has been fun and educational, helping customers select wines, providing recommendations and more. It provides an interesting glimpse into the mind of the wine consumer and has also fueled a number of blog posts. Stop by the store some time and let me help you choose some wines. Besides the wine, the store also stocks some delicious gourmet and artisan foods, so you have one stop shopping for a party.

What were some of your favorite wine related items this year?

Chianti Classico: Events & Wine Recommendations

So much Chianti Classico wine! And that is far from a complaint.

During our stay in Tuscany, we attended a number of events of the Chianti Classico è, a ten day festival celebrating the wines and foods of this beautiful and fascinating region. At each of those events, the wines flowed freely and I tasted many different wines from this region, from Chianti Classico to IGT wines. I want to provide a brief summary of some of these events, to give you an overview of the festival, as well as to provide a number of wine recommendations. The festival is an annual event, and it is an excellent way to experience the region.

But first I want to start with something that was not on our itinerary, but worthy of mention. On my first day in Tuscany, I had some free time to wander the historical city of Florence. I walked to the San Lorenzo Central Mercado, a large food market, as I had heard good things about it and I desired lunch. After haggling a bit, and buying two coats, at one of the myriad leather shops surrounding the market, I ventured inside and wandering down the rows of food stalls.

One of the most famous stalls in this market is Nerbone, a restaurant counter where you can order sandwiches and other meals. One of their specialties is the panino con bollito, a boiled beef sandwich that sells for only 3.50 Euros. The meat is topped with both a spicy red sauce as well as a green pesto sauce while the roll is fresh, though hearty and dense. The sandwich was quite tasty, with plenty of tender meat, very little fat, and with a strong spicy kick on the finish. A great bargain sandwich and well worth checking it out. Just get there early before the long lines start forming.

Our initial dinner in the Chianti Classico region was the inaugural event of the festival, the Pentecost in Castellina dinner. This event was held under the vaulted loggias, essentially a lengthy tunnel, which was a fascinating setting for this event. With all the stonework, it added an air of the medieval to the dinner, as well as protected us from the rain. It was a festive occasion and we were all made to feel very welcome. The Ristorante Albergaccio in Castellina catered the tasty dinner, with traditional items such as polenta, ravioli and risotto. In addition, we had plenty of Chianti Classico wines to taste, a mix of both traditional and modern styles. For the most part, I preferred the more traditional ones.

One of my favorite events was the Gallo Nero & Street Food Festival, which showcased street foods from all over Italy with a multitude of Chianti Classico wines. Food came from regions such as Abruzzo, Liguria, Sicilia, Romagna, Marche, and Toscana. In addition, the special guest country was Argentina, which offered a variety of grilled meats, a gift for your inner carnivore. We traveled from booth to booth, sampling the diversity of available cuisine, finding much to enjoy, from porchetta sandwiches to cannolis.

My clear favorite of the evening though was from the Sicilia booth, their Arancini. These are basically rice croquettes filled with a meat and pea filling. I have eaten many different Arancinis, but this was one of the best that I have ever tasted. About the size of my fist, the arancini was cooked perfectly, with a crisp coating, and contained plenty of a moist meat filling, which helped to prevent it from being dry. Too many arancini skimp on the meat filling so they sometimes can be too dry and chewy. This arancini was bursting with flavor, and I had to enjoy a second one too.

In the historic town of Greve, we dined for lunch one day at the Ristorante Da Verrazzano, participating in the semifinals of the Homemakers’ Trophy, a cooking contest that pits various cities and towns in Chianti Classico against each other. You can see some of the cooks above, local homemakers who prepared territorial dishes. At this seminfinal, Castellina and Radda competed, each preparing a three course lunch and we got to taste both of the dishes from each course. We then voted for which of the two dishes we enjoyed the most.

My overall favorite dish was the Galletto all Toscana, which is rooster. Rooster seems to be common in this region as we had it a couple other times during our time in Tuscany. It was moist, tender and flavorful and it is a dish that probably should be more prominent in the U.S. too. After the voting was tallied, the winner was Castellina, taking two of the three courses and my votes coincided with all three of the winning dishes. Radda won the Primi course for their pasta dish and then Castellina won for their Galletto and Torta. We were not in Tuscany during the Finals, but Castellina faced Greve, and it was Greve who ultimately won the competition.

One of the most unusual wine pairing events I have ever attended was at the Goals di-vini event. Chianti Classico and European football? The Italians are certainly passionate about both, so with days before the start of the  European Football Championship, they decided to pair these two interests. We watched films of some historic football goals, and Daniele Cernilli, formerly of the renowned Gambero Rosso, paired a wine with each of those goals. Overall, we tasted 14 different wines, and though I am not a huge football fan, it was exciting to watch these amazing goals, to see the incredible skills of the players. We enjoyed some excellent wines as well. Mmmm..which wines should we pair with hockey?

Now onto to some wine recommendations.

The Fattoria di Rodano winery is located in the Castellina region and was located on an ancient pilgrimage route. There was even once a Benedictine house on the property which was a rest stop for these pilgrims. In 1958, Carlos Pozzesi, a medical officer, bought the estate and planted vineyards. Currently, the estate constitutes about 100 hecatres, with one-third possessing vines. They produce traditional style Chianti Classico and I was impressed with their wines.

I tasted both their 2006 and 2007 Chianti Classicos, which are a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo & Colorino. The wine is aged for about 18 months, 80% in Slavonian oak barrel and 20% in barrique. They are elegant and rustic wines, with a nice depth of flavor and are excellent food wines. The 2004 Viacosta Chianti Classico Riserva is 100% Sangiovese from the Viacosta vineyard. It was aged for about 24 months, 60% in French oak and 20% of that is new. It had an alluring aroma and on the palate it was superb! Complex, elegant, rustic, spicy, and with a lengthy and pleasing finish. One of my favorite wines of the entire trip and an excellent example of the potential of Sangiovese.

The Bibbiano winery, owned by Tommaso and Frederico Marrocchesi Marzi, possesses about 25 hectares of vineyards and they still use many old agricultural methods. The 2009 Montornello Chianti Classico is more of a traditional style, with prominent fruit flavors, but also some nice spice and hints of earthiness. Elegant and delicious. The 2007 Vigna del Capannino Chianti Classico Riserva is made from 100% Sangiovese from the del Capannino vineyard. It too is elegant and delicious, with more spice notes, greater complexity, restrained ripe fruit, violet notes and a lengthy, satisfying finish. A winery you should notice.

The 2004 Vegi Silvio Chiostri Chianti Classico Riserva is made from 100% Sangiovese and has a light red color with nice, restrained cherry flavors and hints of earthiness and spice. Very good acidity made this an excellent food wine. Another traditional style wine which appealed to me.

The 2007 San Fabiano Calcinaia Cellole Chianti Classico Riserva is mostly Sangiovese with a touch of Merlot. As such, it seems a bit more modern in style, but still is restrained. Ripe cherries, silky tannins, vanilla and spice. It would be good with a hearty dish, such as pasta Bolognese or a nice steak.

Poggio al Sole (which means "the sunny hillock) once belonged to the Passignano Abbey but was purchased by a Florentine goldsmith during the 1960s. In May 1990, he sold the estate to a Swiss couple, Johannes and Kathrin Davaz. Johannes learned about wine from working at his parents' vineyard, and his brother took over that vineyard. When they purchased Poggio, there were only 8 hectares of vineyards and they have increased that to 18 hectares, now producing about 80,000 bottles annually. They grow all of their own grapes, and the vineyards are primarily planted with Sangiovese.

The winery produces a Rosé, two Chianti Classicos and 3 Table wines. To me, their wines are mainly produced in a more modern style so though they are good, they are not my preference. But, I was impressed with the 2009 Casasillia Chianti Classico Riserva. "Casasillia" is the former name of the Poggio al Sole estate. It is made from 100% Sangiovese and aged in barriques, 50% new, for about 16-18 months. It had an intriguing aroma and on the palate was a complex melange of dark fruits, smoke, spice and a hint of earthiness. It was elegant, with a lengthy finish, and nice acidity. Strongly recommended.

The Casina Di Cornia winery, established in 1979, consists of only 24 hectares, 7 which have vineyards. They have been certified organic since 1983 and believe in minimal intervention during the wine making process. The 2010 Chianti Classico is made from 100% Sangiovese and is very traditional, with plenty of cherry flavors, hints of violet and an earthy backbone. The 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva is also in a traditional style, with more spicy notes and tastes of prunes and blackfruits.

The 2010 Villa Cerna Chianti Classico, another traditional wine, presented intriguing smoke and spice elements while their 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva was very elegant and restrained, with dried cherries, violets, earthiness, and great acidity.

A few more Chianti Classico recommendations include the 2008 Casaloste "Don Vincenzo" Chianti Classico Riserva, the 2008 Castello di Fonterotoli Chianti Classico, and the 2008 San Donatino Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva.

Felsina: A Rave For Rancia

"As soon as one sets foot in this countryside, one feels a moral responsibility to the land."
--Giuseppe Mazzocolin

History, hunting, wine and olive oil. An intriguing combination that provides character to the Felsina winery located in Chianti Classico. The name "Felsina" derives from the name of an ancient Etruscan city, which is now called Bologna, the capital of the Emilia-Romagna region. Around 1152, Felsina is first mentioned in documents and it was known as a "place of assistance for pilgrims." Many historic buildings still remain on the property, though some have been renovated for different uses. Each step on the estate seems to be a step into the past.

The Felsini estate is located in the southern most part of the Chianti Classico region, about 20 kilometers from Siena. In 1966, Domenico Poggiali of Ravenna purchased the Felsina estate from a group of hunters, who also were from Ravenna. At that time, the estate only contained about 25 acres of vineyards but within a few years, Domenico, who saw the potential of wine making on the estate, had expanded that to 100 acres.

Domenico also purchased the estate's hunting reserve and hunting, for boar, deer and other animals, continues to the present day. We saw some of their young and adorable Irish Setters, which are being trained as hunting dogs.

The current manager of Felsina is Giuseppe Mazzocolin, the son-in-law of Domenico, and he became a part of the winery during the 1970s. Giuseppe has a very classical background, being a former Latin & Greek instructor, who after 30 years decided to enter the wine industry. Now, the Felsina estate covers about 1454 acres and 232 acres are planted with vineyards. The estate is mostly biodynamic, though it is not certified, and they raise a number of animals, including chicken, turkeys, goats and small cows. Their wine maker is Franco Bernabei, a famed Italian enologist.

Felsina produces about 500,000 bottles annually, about half being Chianti Classico. Above, you can see one of their cellars, which once was an old granary and that later became stables. In 1980, Felsina acquired a second property, the Castello di Farnetella, located in Chianti Colli Senesi, which also produces about 500,000 bottles. The primary focus of Felsina is Sangiovese, though they produce a few other wines as well. They believe their Sangiovese wines have high acidity and are elegant, sometimes even austere.

We began our tasting of Felsina wines with the 2010 I Sistri, IGT, made from 100% Chardonnay, a French clone. The grapes were fermented in small oak barrels, matured on the lees, and bottled in the July after harvest. The wine was creamy and rich, with some nice apple and citrus flavors, some minerality and a decent finish.

The 2009 Chianti Classico is made from 100% Sangiovese, a blend of grapes from 11 different vineyards. It was barrel aged for about 12 months in medium-sized Slovenian oak casks and then aged for 3 more months in the bottle. It tends to be more in the traditional style, showing a rustic aspect with bright cherry flavors and some underlying spice notes. Very good acidity, this would be an excellent food wine.

The 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva is also made from 100% Sangiovese, but there is a stricter selection of grapes, aiming for a higher quality. It was barrel aged for 12-16 months in medium-sized oak casks and then aged for 3-6 more months in the bottle. It is also very traditional with a nice rustic element, with deeper fruit flavors, more black cherry, and stronger spice notes. It has a bit more tannins, good acidity and a longer finish. Also an excellent food wine, this is the style I prefer.

The next two wines, the Rancia, a Chianti Classico Riserva, and the Fontalloro, an IGT, were both begun in 1983.

The 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is made from 100% Sangiovese, the grapes all from a single vineyard named Rancia. That vineyard derives its name from a historic farm that once was a Benedictine monastery. The wine was barrel aged for 16-18 months in new and one year old 225-liter oak barrels and then spent an additional 6-8 months aging in the bottle. The Rancia had such an alluring smell, a melange of wonderful aromas that beckoned to me like a siren. It too was in a traditional style, with a delightful earthy component, and a compelling taste of black cherry, blueberry, violets, spice, and hints of leather. It was elegant and intriguing, with a lengthy, satisfying finish. The Rancia was my favorite wine from Felsina.

The 2008 Fontalloro IGT is made from 100% Sangiovese but the grapes come from vineyards in the Chianti Classico region as well as the Chianti Colli Senesi region. The wine was barrel aged for 18-22 months in new and one year old 225-liter oak barrels and then spent an additional 8-12 months aging in the bottle. It too had an excellent aroma, with more subdued fruit flavors, some earthiness, and more spice than the Rancia. This is an excellent wine and it is hard to qualify exactly why I preferred the Rancia, though maybe it is because the Rancia, to me, seemed to possess certain depths that the Fontalloro lacked. Your preference over these two wines may vary, but you won't go wrong with choosing either one.

Vin Santo is very important to Felsina, and they consider it their most traditional wine. The 2003 Vin Santo is a blend of Trebbiano, Malvasia, and Sangiovese and was a very pleasing wine, with a nice mix of flavors including citrus, tropical fruits, a bit of dried apricot, mild nutty notes and enough acidity to balance out the sweetness.

Felsina has been producing olive oil for a long time, and in 2002, they identified three specific areas, Felsina, Pagliaresi and Boschi as possessing distinct terroirs. They now make four single varietal olive oils, including Pendolino (very fruity), Leccino (a fruity smell with a little pepper and spice), Maraiolo (fruit, floral and grassy notes), and Raggiolo (thick and savory).

Fontodi Winery: Refreshing A Chianti Tradition

Giovanni Manetti, the owner of the Fontodi winery, is a man of conviction, desirous of reconnecting with an old Chianti tradition, and he is surrounded in the Panzano region by many people with similar beliefs. The Panzano region is a model in some respects for other wine regions, a story of cooperation, a story of principles, a story of connecting with nature.

Though Giovanni was dressed as a businessman, it seemed clear he was very much home in the vineyards, even walking through the Chianina cow enclosure with us to give us a closer look at those fine creatures. His passion and good humor were evident and it was a pleasure to spend time with him. Giovanni was also quite excited as Fontodi had just won an Oscar del Vino for Best Winery of the Year 2012, awarded by the Italian Association of Sommeliers.

Giovanni's family was once in the terracotte tile business and Giovanni's father was passionate about wine. In 1968, his father purchased the Fontodi estate, having known the previous owner. The estate is located in what is known as the Conca d'Oro ("Golden Bowl"), because the area's shape resembles an amphitheater. The Manetti family residence is situated in the middle of the estate, and Giovanni loves to walk through the vineyards.

The estate extends over 130 hectares of which 80 are planted with vineyards, and over 95% of those vineyards are planted with Sangiovese. That works well as most of their soil is galestro, considered the best soil for Sangiovese. Besides a little Cabernet Sauvignon, the vineyards also have a little Pinot Noir and Syrah, both planted in 1985, and the winery produces about four to five thousand cases of those wines. In fact, Fontodi may be one of the last vineyards in this region with any Pinot Noir. As for the Syrah, it was planted at the same time as Paolo di Marchi of Isole e Olena planted Syrah in his own vineyard. They did so though separately, without discussing it.

The estate also includes about 25 hectares of olive trees, from which they produce an extra virgin olive oil, a blend of Correggilo and Moraiolo olives. The overall estate has an average altitude of 450 meters, while most of the vineyards have a southern exposure, providing lots of sun during the day and cool nights, perfect growing weather.

As a winery owner, Giovanni believes it is a "moral duty to do our best, to maximize the potential." As such, Giovanni wanted to reinstate a Chianti tradition, to create a closed system Tuscan farm. The estate has possessed vineyards for many years and practiced what many would consider "biodynamic" practices before Steiner's agricultural lectures of 1924 detailed the practices. Fontodi is now a certified organic estate, inspired by a concern for nature and sustainability, seeking a better expression of terroir.

They also perform many biodynamic practices, though they do not use any of the preparations so they will never be certified as biodynamic. The phases of the moon are very important to Giovanni and certain vineyard and cellar practices are guided by those moon phases. For example, they feel that the moon's elliptical orbit changes gravity and thus affects liquids so the descending moon is considered best for removing sediment and bottling. On the other hand, the ascending moon is considered best for replanting vineyards.

Cover crops are grown in the vineyard, with barley situated in every other row of grape vines (as pictured above). The barley, harvested in July, is used to feed their cows and the barley also helps by absorbing excess nitrogen, which leads to smaller grape berries with thicker skin. I have previously discussed the Chianina cows that Giovanni raises on his estate, another element of that closed farm system as well as continuing a practice which had been done by his father.

Giovanni also stated that the winery had not seen an overall increase in expenses because they went organic, as though they needed more labor, they saved money from not needing to purchase products such as pesticides. He admits that organic will not work everywhere, but that those areas where it can be done are quality regions. Giovanni also feels that it is easy to make good wine anywhere if you use chemicals. In the Chianti Classico region, you will find very few biodynamic producers and only a small portion, maybe 20%, of organic producers. But that may be changing.

There are about twenty wineries in the Panzano region and about 80% are now either organic or biodynamic, and even the few holdouts are moving in that direction. Only ten years ago, that was not the case as only 4-5 of those wineries were organic/biodynamic. The Panzano wineries don't really view themselves as competitors, as they generally share a similar philosophy and strategy. That has enabled them to create a region that is almost completely organic, and within five years could be 100% organic. They share convictions and principles, which have enabled them to work together for this greater objective. Other wine regions should look to Panzano as a shining example of cooperation.

To Giovanni, a "bottle of wine is something to enjoy." That is certain a truism, reducing wine to its most essential aspect. For a wine is nothing if it cannot be enjoyed. I would also add that a bottle of wine is something to be shared as well, and not just enjoyed on one's own. About 50% of Fontodi's production is Chianti Classico, which is 100% Sangiovese, and their best export market is currently North America.

We had lunch with Giovanni at the Osteria Le Panzanelle, a more traditional Tuscan restaurant which also uses many seasonal ingredients. During lunch, we tasted through a few Fontodi wines as some of their olive oil, which was fresh, clean, and fruity. The food at this restaurant was quite tasty and we shared a number of appetizers before each having our own entree.

A steak tartare, with tender, red beef, that is simply prepared with a little spice, olive oil and lemon. Why do so many U.S. restaurants add so many other ingredients to their tartare?

For my entree, I chose the Tagliatelle con ragu di agnello (a lamb sauce), and it was superb. Fresh pasta, cooked to a firm al dente, with lots of flavorful and well spiced lamb. It was a plentiful dish and a Chianti Classico was an excellent pairing. A hearty Tuscan meal that is sure to satisfy any hunger.

The 2009 Fontodi Chianti Classico, which is 100% Sangiovese, is fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and spends about 12 months in French oak barrels. It was a bit more modern in style, with sweet red fruits, good acidity, and a bright freshness. An easy-drinking wine for pizza, pasta and burgers.

In comparison, the 2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva, Vigna del Sorbo, was more traditional in style despite the fact it is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts  and spends about 24 months in French oak barrels, about 50% new. The grapes were vinified separately and the wine sees no fining. Giovanni stated that his goal was "power and elegance" and he succeeded in that regard. There was a rustic element to the wine, with flavors of cherries, plum, violets, and a mild spice component. I preferred it to the basic Chianti Classico though both were good companions with our lunch.

Fontodi's top wine is their Flaccianello, a Super Tuscan which they started producing back in 1981. The concept behind this wine was to make the best wine they could from 100% Sangiovese. They use only their best grapes, all hand harvested and double sorted. There is a minimum of 20-30 days of maceration and they use only indigenous yeast with very little sulfur dioxide. The wine also spends a minimum of 18 months in new French oak barrels, and usually two years in the bottle. About 50-60,000 bottles are annually produced. Though it would quality now as Chianti Classico, Fontodi still keeps it as an IGT wine. The prominent cross on the label is a design from the church on the estate which has existed there for centuries.

The 2007 Flaccianello is very dark red in color, almost purple, with a muted aroma of spice and black fruit. On the palate, it is dark and brooding, with plenty of ripe fruit flavors, strong spice, a hint of eucalyptus, fine grain tannins, good acidity and a lengthy finish. It may possess a bit more power than elegance but that will likely balance out with a bit of aging. It is an excellent wine though I would prefer it with more maturity.

What a difference with ten more years of aging! The 1997 Flaccianello, which is from one of the vintages of the century, showed the vast potential of this wine. The color has faded some, and there is a bit of brown, and the aroma is more pronounced, with plenty of subtleties. Though it still possesses some power, the finesse  and elegance is dominant. There were alluring and complex flavors of black fruits, minerality, dark spice and earthiness. Silky tannins and a long and lingering finish, this is a wine to slowly savor over dinner, to relish every fine sip.

The 1982 Flaccianello, which was only its second vintage, was an even lighter red color with much more brown, and a bit of a musty aroma. But with a little time in the glass, the mustiness vanished. It was an interesting wine, that was pure elegance with intriguing flavors of earth, black truffle, licorice, and dried fruit. There was almost a smokiness to it as well. I loved how the Flaccianello evolved over time, and it is evidence of the great potential of Sangiovese.

Chianti Classico is usually made more for commercial purposes, but the production of Vin Santo is often more personal. Giovanni stated that, "Vin Santo is at the heart of Chianti Classico" and that it is first made for the family and then the remainder can be sold off commercially. The 2003 Fontodi Vin Santo is a blend of 50% Sangiovese and 50% Malvasia de Chianti, the grapes which have dried out for 5-6 months. It had a minimum of 7 years of aging and has 300 grams of residual sugar and 12.5% alcohol. This wine had a dark amber color and was rich with a nice melange of apricots, dates, orange peel, dried fruit, and mild spicer. It is sweet but with a good acidity that balances much of it. A great choice for a dessert wine.

Ten Things You Should Know About Chianti Classico (Part 2)

(Continued from Part 1)

4)  The quality of Chianti Classico has increased.
Chianti Classico has never tasted better than now, and that high quality will continue to improve in the years to come. In the last 15-20 years, the overall quality of Chianti Classico wine has significantly increased. One of the primary reasons for these changes was related to us on our first winery visit by Alessandro Gallo, the Direttore of Castello D'Albola. Alessandro stated that much of the change was due to a different mindset, which led to numerous changes in the vineyards. He claimed, and which would later be supported by several other producers, that many wine makers once believed that wine was made in the cellars, but now 80-90% of them have come to believe that wine is made in the vineyards.

That change of mindset has been quite significant. The law in Chianti Classico prohibits new vineyards from being planted or from new land being used for vineyards. As we were told, you can't cut down most trees, as the land is very precious, and also well protected. That has led many producers, at least 60%, to replant their vineyards, with better grape clones as well as working on density, canopy management, and other viticultural techniques. All of these vineyards changes have led to better wine, helping to support the mindset that wine is made in the vineyards and not the cellar. As more study and experimentation is conducted, then the quality will continue to rise.

5) Traditional vs Modern styles
Chianti Classico wines can roughly be divided into two styles, traditional and modern, though there are obviously some exceptions, wines which straddle the line between these two styles. In general, traditional types are produced from only Sangiovese, with maybe the addition of a small amount of Canaiolo. They are aged minimally in new oak, and more often in botti, large wooden casks which traditionally are made from Slovenian oak. Their flavor profile usually includes bitter cherries, violets, a certain rustic earthiness and high acidity. This is my preferred style of Chianti Classico and is perfect for drinking with food.

The modern types usually add some Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and/or Syrah to their Sangiovese. These wines see far more new oak, usually French barriques, and reflect more of an internatonal style. Their flavor profile tends more to ripe plum, blackberry, vanilla and spice notes. They are more concentrated, with less acidity, and often seem more lush. Sometimes these wines can seem like they were made anywhere in the world, and do not seem uniquely Italian. But then there are plenty of good modern types as well. Much will depend on your individual preferences.

6) Elegance is the key.
Though it may seem a more traditional position, numerous wine makers stated that for Chianti Classico, the primary aspect should be elegance, not power. Historically, that has been the style for Chianti Classico, being more elegant, something to well accompany dinner. Power is too much like the international style, and seems to forget the roots of this Italian wine. Elegance is said to better represent terroir and power can cloud that element, preventing a consumer from determining the identity of his wine. As should be expected, as I prefer the traditional style, I also usually prefer elegance in my Chianti Classico over power.

7) The glory of Super Tuscans.
A few of the best wines I tasted in Tuscany, like Cepparello, Flaccianello, and Fontalloro, were not officially Chianti Classico but rather fell into a different category, IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica), though they are better known as Super Tuscans. In brief, a Super Tuscan either falls outside of the Chianti Classico DOCG regulations or the producer chose not to declare it as a Chianti Classico. During the 1970s, a number of producers wanted more freedom to produce wines that did not follow the usual wine regulations, so those wines could only be declared vino da tavola, table wine. Some of these Super Tuscans were made from 100% Sangiovese, which was not possible for a Chianti Classico at that time. Others used larger quantities of international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, creating almost a Bordeaxu style blend.

These Super Tuscans became very popular, and often were of high quality, selling for far more than Chianti Classico. So in 1994, the IGT category was created for these wines so they no longer were labeled as "table wine."  One year later, the Chianti Classico rules changed to permit the use of 100% Sangiovese, but that did not cause some of the most popular Super Tuscans to want to be recognized as Chianti Classico. As they already had high name recognition, changing from IGT to Chianti Classico didn't seem like a necessity. Though the general popularity of Super Tuscans has diminshed some, some of the top producers still retain their high reputation. As I mentioned recently, some rule changes may be coming to the Chianti Classico regulations, potentially creating a new quality category which could place some Super Tuscans at the top of a new qualitative pyramid.

8) Chianti Classico is food friendly.

While in Tuscany, essentially every lunch and dinner included Chianti Classico wine, and usually at least a few different ones. It was an excellent accompaniment to our meals, especially the more traditional types. The Chianti Classico paired well with a diverse range of foods, including beef, poultry, pork, pasta, salumi, bruschetta, cheese and more. Its high acidity contributed to its food friendliness. Many producers told us that their wines are specifically made to accompany food, not to be drank on their own. That is how they have always drank their wine, with meals, and not on its own. This is a very European view, one that still has not taken hold in the U.S.

9) There are few Biodynamic or Organic producers.

In the Chianti Classico region, you will find very few biodynamic producers and only a small portion, maybe 20%, of organic producers. But that may be changing. We visited the Fontodi winery, located south of the town of Panzano, and it is certified organic as well as performing many biodynamic practices, except for the preparations. Giovanni Manetti, the owner of Fontodi, stated that the phases of the moon are very important to them and certain vineyard and cellar practices are guided by those moon phases. Yet they are not alone as of the 20 different Panzano wineries, about 80% are now either organic or biodynamic, and the few holdouts are moving in that direction. Only ten years ago, that was not the case as only 4-5 of those wineries were organic/biodynamic.

Giovanni also stated that they have not seen an increase in expenses because they went organic, as though they need more labor, they save money from not needing to purchase products such as pesticides. He admits that organic will not work everywhere, but that those areas where it can be done are quality regions. It is easy to make good wine anywhere if you use chemicals. The Panzano wineries don't really view themselves as competitors, as they generally share a similar philosophy and strategy. That has enabled them to create a region that is almost completely organic, and within five years could be 100% organic.

10) Vin Santo is made for the family.
Chianti Classico is usually made more for commercial purposes, but Vin Santo is often more personal. Giovanni Manetti stated that Vin Santo is first made for the family and then the remainder is sold off commercially. Vin Santo is basically a sweet wine produced from grapes that have been allowed to dry out over time. It is not to be confused with the Greek Vinsanto (a single word), which refers to a wine from Santorini and is a legally protected term according to the European Union. The Italian may use the two words, Vin Santo, to refer to their wine. A little confusing.

One story about the origin of Vin Santo is that during the 14th century, when the Black Death spread through Tuscany, a Franciscan friar tried to ease the great pain of plague victims by giving them sweet wine. This wine became known as vino santo, holy wine. Vin Santo can be made with a variety of grapes, such as Sangiovese, Trebbiano and Malvasia, and its sweetness level can range widely too. Paolo De Marchi of Isole e Olena stated that Vin Santo was the welcoming wine, used for toasting and celebrating and it was the only wine that they would drink without dilution.