Chilling With Sake Class & Sake News:

1) Want to learn more about Sake? Then you can do so at my upcoming "Chilling With Sake" class at the Boston Wine School on Wednesday, March 16, from 6:30pm-8:30pm. This will be a fun introduction to the realm of sake, covering diverse topics such as sake history, the brewing process, sake types, rituals & customs, terminology and much more. No prior knowledge of sake is required to take this class.  We will taste through a number of sakes, as well as enjoy sushi. Don't be intimidated by sake any longer. Instead, arm yourself with the knowledge you need to safely navigate a restaurant's sake menu or a wine store's sake selection.  Space is limited so make reservations soon to guarantee a spot.

2)  If you live near, or will be traveling to San Francisco, and are a sake lover, then you should read one of the latest articles in SF Weekly, which is all about sake in the city. The article, Drink 2011: Sake to Me by Alastair Bland, mentions some of the stores and restaurants where you can find good sake lists.  The article ranges from the superb True Sake, the first all-sake store in the U.S., to the compelling Ozumo restaurant. There is even a brief mention of U.S. sake breweries.   

2010 In Review: General Summary

As 2010 nears its end, I have been spending time looking back at this past year, savoring some of my favorite memories and achievements. I have already provided three summary lists for 2010, my Top Ten Wines Under $15, Top Ten Wines Over $15 and Top Wines Over $50.  And more lists are on the way.

Now it is time for a general summary of the past year, highlighting several key items and events. These are some of the most important food and wine items and events of the past year for me. Please note that I will be posting some more specific food, wine, sake and spirits lists in the near future. 

Thursday Sips and Nibbles:
Back in June, I introduced a new feature on my blog: Thursday Sips & Nibbles. Each Thursday, I compile a post of brief and interesting food and wine items that I encountered recently.  These items might include updates on previous posts, restaurant news, food/wine events, mini-reviews and more.  These items generally are not long enough for their own post, so it was more useful to bundle them together. So, I now have three regular features on my blog, including Monday Rants and Sake Sundays.  What new feature will I add for 2011?  Any suggestions?

Further Education:
This summer, I attended John Gauntner's Saké Professional Course in San Francisco.  Over the course of three intensive days, I expanded and reinforced my knowledge of sake, while tasting over 90 different sakes. At the end, I passed the course, becoming a Certified Sake Professional.  It was a great class, and well worth taking if you love sake. John was an excellent instructor, ensuring the material was fun and informative. I am now teaching classes about sake, holding sake tastings, and consulting about sake-related matters.  Please see my new site, Passionate Sake, for more information.

I am also currently studying for the Center of Wine Origins' Wine Location Specialist Certificate Exam. This course concentrates on Champagne and Port, giving an in-depth examination of these wines and I have found the study materials to be quite fascinating so far. The exam is in early January so I'll continue to study hard.  For 2011, I would also like to become a Certified Sherry Educator.

Travel:
This was a very busy, yet quite exciting, year for travel, including both domestic and international.  As I have said before, travel to wine regions can be so educational, often giving you a much better understanding than what you can derive from any book or lecture.  Such travel can expand and reinforce your knowledge, as well as be quite enjoyable.  I strongly recommend that all my readers try to visit a wine region in 2011. I hope to continue my own travels next year. 

1) I attended two wine conferences this year, both TasteCamp and the Wine Bloggers Conference.  TasteCamp 2010 was held in the Finger Lakes, New York, and was slightly larger than the previous year. It was exciting to visit this wine region, and I tasted many very good wines, as well as some exceptional ones. It was great to see many bloggers again from the 2009 event, as well as to meet some new ones. TasteCamp is a more intimate event, and one whose primary purpose is to understanding a wine region.  Three of the wines from this region ended up on my Top Wine lists this year, so that is impressive. For 2011, TasteCamp will be held in the Niagara region, both the Canadian and American sides, and I plan on attending. 

I also attended my first Wine Bloggers Conference, which was held in Walla Walla, Washington, and it was quite an event. Far larger than TasteCamp, I met many bloggers I had previously known only online, or had not even known there. There were plenty of good wines and delicious food, as well as many activities. Numerous seminars were interesting and useful, and it was a great networking opportunity.  In 2011, the conference will be held in Charlottesville, Virginia, and I plan on attending.  I was glad to see that the conference would finally be held on the East Coast. 

2) I journeyed to San Francisco to take the Sake Professional Course, and got to spend some time touring the area too.  I have been to San Francisco before so my trip was a revisit to some favorite places, as well as an exploration of some new places.  Excellent restaurants such as Incanto, Ozumo and the Slanted Door.  True Sake, the first all-sake store in the U.S. Omnivore Books, a fascinating food/beverage book store.  It is a fun city, and a place I would enjoy visiting again sometime.

3) Last spring, I attended a press trip to the Paso Robles region, and was intrigued by their food and wine.  It is an unprentious area, one that is up and coming and deserving of exploration. They produce some excellent Rhône-style wines, whites and reds, and at all price points.  There are also some delicious restaurants, many relying on local and sustainable ingredients. It is a scenic region, and a nice choice for a laid back vacation. Four wines from this region ended up on my Top Wine Lists.   

4) Lovely Spain! It is always a pleasure to visit Spain and this past fall I got to visit the Sherry region, including the cities of Jerez, Sevilla, Cadiz, El Puerto de Santa María, and Sanlúcar de Barrameda, as part of a press trip.  What a superb journey, with incredible food, wines and people.  It was my favorite trip of the year, and I have so many find memories of the region. From the Arabic baths to flamenco dancing, from baby eels to sherry (lots of sherry).  Plus, it was very educational, and my passion for sherry grew even greater.  I highly recommend that you visit this region of Spain! 

5) Earlier this month, I took another press trip, this time to the Collio DOC of the Friuli region of Italy. Though I have not yet written about my experiences, I can say that it was an excellent trip.  Great food, wine, people, scenery, history and more.  Lots of white wines, including Friuliano, Ribolla Gialla, and white blends. The weather cooperated, being sunny, though we could see the majesty of the snow-covered Alps.  You can look forward to a number of posts about the Collio region in January 2011.

Controversy:
My Monday Rants are probably the most popular feature of my blog, and can sometimes generate some interesting discussions.  But no other post this year generated as much controversy as Rant: Alton Brown, I Call You Out! In brief, I saw an Iron Chef America episode where it appeared that bluefin tuna was used as an ingredient.  Knowing Alton Brown's stance against the use of bluefin, I questioned the apparent use of it on the show he hosts.  Alton himself responded, as did numerous others. Plus, many others responded on their own message boards and forums about my post, often in a negative fashion.

Without delving into the specifics of the topic, I think this Rant was highly successful in generating discussion about a very important issue, the endangered bluefin tuna. Plus, it ensured that bluefin tuna was a banned ingredient on Iron Chef America.  For unknown reasons, Iron Chef America does not post a list of the ingredients banned on the show, and my previous efforts to secure such a list from them have been unsuccessful. Iron Chef America should be proud to ban unsustainable seafood from their show, and should make a public declaration of such. Why they have not done so still puzzles me.

I hope my Rants in 2011 continue to generate discussion on some important issues.

Niche Wines:
When it comes to wines and other alcohol beverages, I am very adventurous, constantly seeking out the unusual, rare, exotic, uncommon, and underappreciated drinks.  I love expanding my palate, tasting something new, trying to find something worthy. This year, it seems I have been more and more of a passionate advocate for niche wines and beverages, trying to encourage others to try them, to expand their own palates beyond the usual suspects, the common Cabernets, Chardonannys, Pinots and such.  Sherry, Sake, Greek wines, Madeira, Texas wines, Finger Lake wines, and more.  I grow weary of reading blogs about the usual suspects, wishing they would venture out into less familiar territory.  There is so much excellent wine out there, just waiting to be discovered by an adventurous drinker. 

Will any wine blogger make a vow for 2011 to be more adventurous with their palate?

My Readers:
I am once again very thankful for all of my readers this past year. My readership continues to grow and I have received more comments this year on my blog. I am glad for those people who have enjoyed and found my blog posts entertaining and informative. I hope to attract more readers in the new year, as well as to have more of a discussion with those readers I already possess. Please feel free to add your comments, so we can have a dialogue about the issues and items I write about.  I want this blog be more than just my writings, but also to be a stepping stone to fascinating discussions.

Ozumo: Saké, Sushi & More

After our first day of class of the Saké Professional Course, many of the attendees met at Ozumo restaurant, for food, Saké and fun. I have dined there before, and had a terrific meal, both food and drink. So I was excited to return, especially as I would be mingling with other Saké lovers.

We dined together in the lounge area, which is fairly large, and the restaurant was nice enough to offer us a discount on food, as well as to provide a very generous discount on some of their Saké. But my first drink was actually not Saké, but a Awamori, a liquor that I had not previously tasted. Awamori is a distilled liquor made from rice, and produced only on the island of Okinawa.

I tried the Ryukyu Ohcho, on the rocks, and found it to have a more unique taste, with a strong alcohol taste like a vodka. There was a certain earthiness to the taste and I was a bit torn about the flavor. It was ok, though did not impress me, and I would have to taste other Awamoris before being able to determine whether I liked that spirit or not. But it certainly was worthwhile trying it for the first time. Be adventurous in your drinking!

As for the Saké, there was plenty to savor. They carry a fairly good-sized list, with a diverse selection. Plus, they have several samplers, where you can try three different brews. I began with a bottle of Taiheizan Tenko Kimoto Daiginjo, from Akita, which thoroughly impressed and pleased me. It was silky smooth, with a complex blend of flavors, including some apple and pear, and a mild earthy undertone. It was so good, that I later bought a bottle to take home with me.

The Kubota Sampler included the Kubota Senju Tokubetsu Honjozo, Kubota Manju Junmai Daiginjo, and Kubota Hekiju Junmai Daiginjo. I enjoyed all three of these though my top choice was the Manju. The Shiboritate Sampler included Otokoyama Yukishibare, Gokyo Arabarshiri, and Urakasumi Shiboritate. The Gokyo was just ok, and I much preferred the other two. These all had a brash freshness about them and were not as subtle or complex as the Kubota.

The food menu at Ozumo is extensive, everything from sushi to robata, and many of the ingredients are local, organic and/or natural. I should note that Ozumo also has concerns about sustainability, and though not all of their seafood is 100% sustainable, they are doing much more than other sushi restaurants.

I found their Nigiri to be excellent, and better priced than other high-end Japanese restaurants. Besides their usual menu, they had some specials, including kinmedai, golden eye snapper, and beni tori, salmon belly from Loch Duarte salmon. Their Tempura, Black Tiger Prawns, was also quite good, an excellent light and crispy tempura batter covering quite large prawns. The Miso Soup was intriguing and flavorful, a blend of Koji, Red Miso, Tofu and Wakame Seaweed.

The Robata Yasai and Skewers also were very pleasing. The Satsuma Imo, sweet potato with shoyu butter, and the Tomorokoshi, yellow corn kakiage, were both delicious and bursting with fresh, clean flavors. The Beef Skewer and Tsukune Skewer, a chicken sausage, were like BBQ meats taken to the next level. Moist, tender and quite tasty.

I am sure the camaraderie of my classmates enhanced my experience about Ozumo, but my prior visit here had been just as compelling. Service was excellent on both visits and I feel it is reasonably priced for the quality and quantity you receive. Add to that their extensive Saké list, and you have a recipe for great gustatory pleasure. If you are in San Francisco, I definitely recommend a visit here.

Ozumo
161 Steuart Street
San Francisco, CA
Phone: 415-882-1333

The Slanted Door: Vietnamese Flair

At the Ferry Building Marketpace in San Francisco, which is one of the models for the year-round market that will be coming to Boston, there are numerous places to eat, from small stalls to large restaurants. One of the most popular restaurants is The Slanted Door, a modern Vietnamese restaurant that also showcases local ingredients.

The restaurant is fairly large, seating over 200 people, and has a sleek, modern flair to it. We were seated at one of their communal tables and I was impressed that the seating was well spaced so that you almost felt as if you had your own table. You did not feel crowded in the least as you do at other restaurants with communal tables. We did not have reservations but got there when the restaurant opened, and there was already a short line to get inside. I would this suggestion reservations if you are dining later, or have a large party.

They have a full bar, with special cocktails, an interesting wine list and plenty of beers as well. I selected a bottle of 2007 Glatzer Blaufrankisch ($30), which was a light bodied wine with flavors of bright cherry, raspberry and hints of blueberry. There was also a spicy undercurrent and a moderately long finish. An easy drinking wine, with lots of flavor, it did not overwhelm any of our food.

The food menu has plenty of choices, including a Raw Bar, Appetizers, Soups, Rolls, Salads, and Entrees, including plenty of veggie dishes. Prices are generally reasonable but note that entree prices range from $18-$34, dependent on what you choose. So, if you are on a budget, you can still eat here, but it is also a place where you can splurge a bit. You should also note that the ingredients are mostly local, and thus may cost a bit more, which seems reflected in the prices of some of the dishes.

I began with the Heger Farm Sweet Corn and Wild Dungeness Crab Soup ($6), a large bowl of very flavorful broth and lots of crabmeat. There was plenty of corn, which did add some sweetness to the soup, and I really enjoyed its savory taste. It was spiced well, with no single flavor overwhelming the others. A nice harmonious blend of deliciousness.

The Crispy Imperial Rolls with shrimp, pork, glass noodles and peanuts ($10) were also very impressive. The crispy exterior was cooked just right, not greasy at all, and the interior ingredients were quite tasty, and seemed very fresh as well. There was a slightly sweet sauce for dipping, and I could have easily eaten a second order of these rolls.

As for entrees (of which I sadly lack photos), the Chicken Claypot with caramel sauce, chilies and fresh ginger ($19) was a delight. Though you might not think the ingredients would pair well together, they made for an excellent combination. The caramel was restrained, more adding some sweetness to offset the heat of the chilies. The chicken was moist, tender and meaty and I finished off every last piece. The Grass-fed Estancia Shaking Beef ($29) consists of cubed filet mignon, Sausalito Springs' watercress, red onions and lime sauce. The tender beef was coated with an intriguing sauce, both complex and flavorful. It reminded me of other Asian beef dishes, except there was an undescribable difference as well.

Service was excellent, and overall I enjoyed my dinner. Though this is a favorite place for tourists, I think the menu is far above what is often considered a touristy restaurant. The menu is certainly different from the usual Vietnamese restaurants you might be used to, but I think it should appeal to most appetites. Plus, I am pleased about their prominent use of local ingredients. Why not give it a try?

The Slanted Door
1 Ferry Building, #3
San Francisco, CA
Phone: 415-861-8032

Iluna Basque: A Taste of Spain

We were seeking something a bit different for dinner in San Francisco and were intrigued by Iluna Basque (which means "Basque night"), a restaurant in the North Beach area which serves traditional and festive Basque cuisine. I made reservations and we later took a short cab ride there, and I am very glad that we took a chance on this place.

Chef Mattin Noblia is a native of the Basque country and has been enthralled with cooking since a very young age. At 14 years old, he entered a three-year culinary training program, and after completion, he worked in restaurants in France and Switzerland. In 2002, Mattin came to San Francisco and opened Iluna Basque a year later.

The restaurant is located near Washington Square and has plenty of competition from all of the other restaurants in this area. That it is still around after seven years is some indication that they are succeeding. Plus, the quality of the food is another important indicator of why they are still around.

The restaurant is small but intimate, with a small bar area that can accomodate about six people. They carry a fully stocked bar, with a list of intriguing cocktails, such as the Basque Martini, and a good wine list with numerous wines from the Basque region, on both the Spanish and French sides. They even make their own Red Sangria, which was pretty tasty. From Monday to Friday, from 5:30pm-7pm, they have special Happy Hour drink prices.

The food menu primarily consists of tapas ($3.75-$9.75) and a handful of entrees. Some of the tapas are more traditional while others are more creative. There are plenty of interesting choices and we chose to just dine on tapas, to sample a variety of dishes.

We began with the Piquillos Pepper Stuffed with Spanish Salt Cod Bacalao ($5.75), a delightful start to our meal. There was plenty of salt cod within the peppers, and all of the flavors blended well together. There was an interesting mix of saltiness with a slight spicy taste.

The Crisp Shaved Potatoes with Herbs & Vinegar ($5.75) were thin, crispy French fries. They had a nice clean taste and made for an interesting side dish.

I was not expecting to find pizza here, but it turned out to be a very pleasant surprise. The Petite Basque Pizza ($8.75) has Spanish ham and a Basque cheese. The thin-crusted pizza was quite delicious, with a rather unique taste which I attribute to the cheese. The slightly salty ham was meaty, with thin ribbons of silky fat.

The Seared Tuna with Bleu Des Basque Sauce ($8.75) was a good-sized piece of fish, lightly seared on the outside. The blue cheese sauce was tasty and tangy, an interesting combination with the tuna which did work well. I think I will experiment more at home combining blue cheese with tuna.

The Garlic Soup with egg ($5.75) was good , and made in a more traditional style which adds an egg. I prefer my garlic soup without an egg but it still tasted good. There was lots of garlic slices in the soup, which I did extract to put on some bread.

We also had the Mini Lamb Burgers ($3.75), basically sliders, and they had a strong lamb flavor which I enjoyed. Plenty of meat for a little burger and the bun was soft and fresh.

We finished up with Plums Wrapped in Bacon ($5.75), as who can refuse bacon? These were fantastic, with a nice crispy bacon surrounding the sweet and juicy plums, and all covered with a sweet sauce.

Service was excellent and we had a very nice dinner. This would probably be a great place to drink and dine on tapas. The food is reasonably priced and there is plenty of variety. If you are thinking about someplace different to eat, consider this restaurant.

Iluna Basque
701 Union St.
San Francisco, CA
Phone: 415-402-0011

Incanto: Dinner with Dante & Beatrice

When I was doing some research for my trip to San Francisco, I knew that I wanted to visit Omnivore Books, and had already mapped out a route that ended there. But where to dine afterwards? It made sense to find a restaurant close to the book store, but only if I could find some place good. If I could not find an appropriate place, I would just take a cab elsewhere. Fortunately, I realized that Incanto was just around the corner.

Incanto is owned by Mark Pastore, a New England native, and the Executive Chef is the famed Chris Cosentino, who you may have seen on the Food Network. Chris grew up in Rhode Island and graduated from Johnson & Wales University. He is into snout to tail cooking, and supports local, sustainability movements. This is reflected in Incanto, which serves sustainable produce, meats and seafood, and usually has some dishes with offal on the menu.

The outside of the restaurant has some cool pig busts above the sliding glass doors. Within the restaurant, you will find the main dining room and an open kitchen, what I consider a sign of a confident restaurant. But rather than seat us in the dining room, we were whisked to a private dining area, their "Dante" room. Though generally not for public dining, the restaurant had decided to open up that room for the evening. We actually had the room completely to ourselves until our dessert course. That certainly made for a more intimate dining experience.

The small room, which seats about 20 people, has been dedicated to Dante Alighieri, the famous Italian poet. It is a beautiful room, with a spectacular mural that was created by the Bay Area muralist Tom Mogensen. On one wall, sandwiched between busts of Dante and his lost love Beatrice, is a complete copy of the text of The Divine Comedy. The other wall displays numerous Italian wines. It is a stunning beautiful room, and am very glad that we got to dine there.

Their diverse wine list is primarily Italian and has about twenty wines available by the glass, half-glass, half-liter or in a flight. Our server seemed well verse in the wine list, and able to provide suggestions. We began our meal by trying a couple of wine flights, one consisting of three Italian rosés ($16) and the other, a Mystery flight ($15), where you don't know what three wines you will receive. Most of the wines were quite good, especially the rosés. We also would later order a 1/2 liter of the 2006 Rosso Conero Lanari ($30), a blend of 90% Montepulciano and 10% Sangiovese. A very pleasant wine with delicious flavors of cherry and plum, and restrained tannins. It paired well with our later dishes.

The food menu changes daily, dependent on what is fresh and available. The menu consists of Starters, Pasta/Rice dishes, Entrees and Sides. Though the dishes are Italian, they do not reflect any specific region of Italy. Instead, they are more creative dishes, sometimes containing less common cuts of meat or offal. There may also be specials for that day, as there were on my visit, but that seemed a bit strange to me. If the menu is changed daily, then why couldn't the specials have just been added?

Prior to our first dish arriving, we received a plate of fresh bread and bread sticks with an olive tapenade. The bread, though not warm, was tasty and obviously very fresh. The tapenade was good too, adding a salty tang when smeared on the bread.

We opted for one of the special Starters, an Open Faced Fried Mortadella ($10) atop toast and covered by an egg and picante sauce. This was exceptional, a meaty, well-spiced mortadella complemented by a mild hot sauce and the runny yolk of the egg. I am usually not a fan of mortadella because I have found too many to be bland, but this was far from that. But that is the significant difference between mass-produced and artisan made salumi.

Speaking of salumi, we also very much enjoyed the Boccalone Sanguinaccio ($13) with Manila clams and porcini mushrooms. The plump blood sausage was very tender, with an earthy taste blended with mild spice flavors. The clams were also tender and taste, the porcinis complementing the earthiness of the sausage. Another great choice for a starter.

The pasta/rice dishes are available in both small ($9-$10) and large portions ($15-$16). We decided to order a couple small plates of pasta and above is the Handkerchief Pasta & Rustic Pork Ragù, with plenty of shaved cheese atop it. The meaty ragu was very tasty, spiced well, and with a rich, savory nature. The pasta was cooked perfectly, with just the right amount of firmness. I really enjoyed this hearty dish and would highly recommend it.

The Spaghettini with Sardinian cured tuna heart, egg yolk & parsley was not quite what I expected. I never would have realized that the shaved meat atop the pasta was tuna heart. Once I broke the egg yolk, and mixed it in with everything, this was such an intriguing dish, with a more savory, earthy flavor. Once again, the pasta was cooked just right and I eagerly devoured this dish. You would never have guessed you were eating tuna heart, thinking instead it was some type of beef.

We chose to split an entree after everything else we had eaten, the Pork belly, cherries, dandelion greens & pickled peaches ($24). I really love pork belly and this dish satisfied my deepest desires, with an excellent combination of crispness and silky, smooth fat. Perfectly prepared, the pork was ehanced by the fruit and it was clear to me pig was king at this restaurant.

Service was excellent, our server being personable, knowledgeable and attentive. The food was delicious and compelling, and I was certainly impressed with all of it. I think the prices were actually fairly good, considering the quality and quantity of food we received. For example, at other similar Italian restaurants, their small pasta dishes may often cost $15 or so. Thus, this restaurant deserves my highest recommendation.

And before I left the restaurant, I had to buy one of the Boccalone t-shirts, which says "Tasty Salted Pig Parts." That garnered plenty of positive comments when I later wore it.

Incanto
1550 Church Street
San Francisco, CA
Phone: 415-641-4500

True Saké: The First All-Saké Store

One indicator of the increasing interest in Saké in our country is the growth of the number of all-Saké stores. For such niche stores to thrive, there must be a sufficient and ever increasing number of Saké drinkers. Within the last seven years, at least four such stores have opened, in San Francisco, New York City, Seattle and Hawaii. I am sure more will sprout up in the near future too.

True Saké, located in the Hayes Valley in San Francisco, was the first, having opened in August 2003. Located on Hayes Street, the store is surrounded by various boutique shops, cafes and restaurants, making the area a nice place to while away an afternoon. Beau Timken, the shop owner, is extremely knowledgeable about Saké, as well as having a deep passion for this brew. Beau was previously kind enough to participate in Wine Blogging Wednesday #59, where I chose the theme of Saké, and he provided a review of the Kikuhime Dai Ginjo.

I first visited his store about five years ago and was very excited to find a store that carried so much Saké. But as I live across the country, it was not a convenient place for me to shop, especially as they could not ship to Massachusetts. So when I returned to San Francisco, I knew I had to visit once again, curious as to what changes might have occurred over time. Plus, I wanted to buy some intriguing Sakés.

The store is essentially the same size, but it carries even more Sakés now, easily over 200. It looks hip and eclectic, and a potent lure to any Saké lover. There is so much to admire, so many different styles and types of Saké, including some that are exclusive to the store, not available anywhere else in the U.S. It is almost overwhelming to have so many choices, especially considering how many look so intriguing to me. As you can see in the photo above, they also carry a selection of Saké books for your edification.

Many of the bottles have an attached card that provides a description of the Saké, some useful information on its flavor profile and other relevant details. That helps make your shopping much easier. If you have any questions, any of the staff will be more than willing and able to field your questions and offer some suggestions.

This photo does not do justice to this display, which showcases various Sakés.

They carry several different sized bottles, from the 300ml to the 1.8 liter bottles. Above, you can see their selection of those large format bottles, more than I have ever seen at any other store. These are a great size for a party or large dinner.

Their refrigerated cases store Namazake and other Sakés so that you can always find a chilled bottle if you desire.

Even the center of the store has a table with dozens of Sakés. Despite everything, the store still does not seem claustrophobic. At least to me, I love being surrounded by so many delightful liquids. I could easily while away a couple hours persuing the shelves, trying to decide which brew to buy. Prices are good, better than a number of other stores I have visited, and they often have special prices on some Sakés.

You'll also find plenty of glassware, masu, ochoko and tokkuri. If you are new to Saké, and want some more traditional looking glasses, you will find them here.

I purchased a few bottles, though not as many as I would have liked. There were so many bottles which appealed to me, and which I wanted to buy. But, it would have been too difficult to carry a case of Saké in my suitcase, especially as I was not going directly home after San Francisco. So it was with much regret that I left the store with only a few bottles.

The store holds frequent tastings and other special events, plus they have a killer newsletter which you should sign up for, no matter where you live. The newsletter provides plenty of interesting information about Saké, and not just about what the store sells. Their website also has an archive of past issues of the newsletter.

I cannot recommend enough that if you are in the San Francisco area, you should stop here. It has everything a Saké lover could desire. You will be hard pressed to find a better and more diverse selection. With their knowledgeable staff, I am sure they can find a Saké to appeal to everyone, even people who think they dislike Saké.

Kudos to Beau for creating such a wondrous Saké oasis.

True Saké
560 Hayes Street
San Francisco, CA
Phone: (415) 355-9555

Beretta: Comfort Food, Italian Style

Sometimes you just get lucky. While wandering through the Mission District of San Francisco, we wanted to stop for a drink and maybe an appetizer. We passed by a number of cafes and other places, finally deciding to take a chance on Beretta. I knew nothing about the restaurant but the menu looked intriguing, the place looked clean, and there were plenty of people inside. So we decided to stop in.

As you enter the restaurant, to your left is a long, well-stocked bar. Their wine list is primarily Italian, with about 14 wines available by the glass, for $7-$12.50. They also have an extensive cocktail list, with numerous intriguing options. We tried the Agricole Mule, which contains rum, lime, ginger, & mint and the Airmail, which has rum, honey, lime, & prosecco. Both were very good, not overly sweet, and with a nice blend of flavors. I think this could be quite a hot spot at night.

They have an open kitchen, which is always a good sign. Everything on their menu is fresh, seasonal, and sourced from local farmers, and they use organic ingredients whenever possible. The menu is primarily small plates, lots of different antipasti, some pizzas, risotto and a main entree that changes every day. Prices are reasonable, with most of the small plates costing $5-$7. There was plenty on the menu that appealed to me, and though I wanted to try many different dishes, we were there only for a small bite as we would be having dinner in a few hours.
We began with the Dungeness crab aracini with calabrese aioli ($10) were very good, with a crunchy, fried exterior and plenty of sweet crab meat and cheese inside. One of the better arancinis I have tasted, and an excellent alternative to use crab.

The Baked Polenta with Gorgonzola cheese ($6) was superb, a large piece of moist polenta smothered in cheese with a delicious red sauce. The tang of the cheese was prominent, though slightly modified by the hint of sweetness in the red sauce. This is top-notch comfort food, a hearty dish that is simple but very good. I made sure that the cast iron pan was quite clean by the time I was done, scraping cheese and sauce off of it. It was also a good place to dip some bread.

Service was very good, and I had no complaints. Though my experience here was limited, everything pleased me, and I think this place has lots of potential. I would certainly return here if I visit San Francisco again. If the rest of their food is as good as the two dishes I tasted, then this is definitely a spot you should visit.

Beretta
1199 Valencia Street
San Francisco, CA
Phone: 415-695-1199

Omnivore Books: A Treasure in San Francisco

San Francisco is a great city for walking...if you are a mountain goat.

Yes, it is very hilly and if you are unused to walking up and down such hills, it can seem daunting as well as exhausting. It is good exercise though and there is much to explore while wandering the streets. After meandering through the Mission District, I made my way up a hill, in a residental area, into the Noe Valley with a plan in mind, to seek out Omnivore Books, a culinary bookstore.

Independent bookstores devoted specifically to food and drink seem rare and they always attract me. For example, more locally, there is Rabelais in Portland, Maine, which is a compelling destination. While researching San Francisco, I came upon mention of Omnivore Books, a similar type of bookstore, and knew that even with my limited free time, I had to stop there.

The store has been open for less than two years, having opened its doors in November 2008. The personable owner, pictured above, is Celia Sack, who has a lengthy history of her interest with antiquarian books. But, she first opened the Noe Valley Pet Store with her partner, Paula Harris. Her passion for books though eventually led to the opening of Omnivore Books. I spoke a bit with Celia and found her both knowledgeable and passionate, two key traits which should enhance the success of her shop.

If you peruse the shelves of this small store, you will find a treasure trove of culinary wonders, both new and used, common and rare. The books cover a wide range of topics, from cooking to agriculture, from wine to cider, from sustainability to cocktails, and much more. You'll find signed first editions as well as kitschy cookbooks from the 1950s. I was enthralled with the store, eagerly scanning the shelves, seeking what treasures I might find. If you love food and books, this store will greatly appeal to you too.

It is very cool that the bookstore actually used to be a butcher shop, and that is clearly evident from the meat locker and machinery visible in the store. The meat locker area is now used for storage, and adds some interesting color to the store. It is not a sterile, new book store, and instead is a place of character, with a sense of history and place.

In front of the door to the meat locker, is the apparatus which was used to haul large hunks of meat into the locker. I am glad that Celia chose to leave this in place, rather than remove it and thus remove a part of the store's history.

To the right of the meat locker door is also an old scale, with a metal cow.

The front of the store, as well as the door, have large windows that allow plenty of natural light to illuminate the store. It is a bright and cheery store, rather than dim and gloomy. As you enter, there is a table of new culinary books to greet you. Then, just turn your head and see all of the packed shelves of books, and you might have difficulty deciding where to start looking. You will be drawn to several different areas at once, eager to explore.

Maybe like I did, you will start in the corner to the right of the front door and work your way counterclockwise around the store. Though I find plenty of familiar titles, I also found many that I had not seen before. The books are generally arranged by topic, making it easier if you are looking for a certain subject. There is a section for wine, spirits, and other drinks, and I was fortunate to find two out-of-print sherry books that I had been seeking. A nice coup for me.

As you peruse the shelves, you will also find some interesting decorations scattered among the shelves, such as old seltzer bottles or antique nip bottles. These touches all add to the charm of the store. In some of the shelves above, you will find cookbooks and reference works specific to various cuisines. I found a cool encyclopedia of Spanish & Portuguese cuisine, which describes the various dishes you will find in those countries, and explains the terms on restaurant menus. That might help me on my upcoming trip to Spain.

This store has thousands of titles, all fairly neatly shelved and without looking cluttered in the least. It is a place you could easily while away several hours as you slowly examined the shelves, skimming through books of interest. I do wish I could have spent more time here, though maybe my wallet was glad I didn't. I am sure I would have bought more books the longer I stayed, the longer I carefully checked each and every shelf.

They also carry several food magazines, from Culture: The Cheese Magazine to The Art of Eating. Plus, they hold numerous events at the store, from book signings to tastings. Omnivore Books has a neighborhood feel to it, a homey place where regulars often visit. Even if you cannot visit the store, they ship books all over the world. I had the books I bought shipped to me, for a minimal cost, so I wouldn't have to carry them in my luggage. That made everything much easier.

In these days of corporate, chain mega-bookstores, it is very good to see independent bookstores which give you important reasons to visit. Omnivore Books is certainly well deserving of your patronage, and provides a wide selection that you won't find in the chain bookstores. Plus, you get personal service from a passionate owner, Celia. I wish the best for Celia and encourage my readers to visit the store if you are ever in San Francisco, as well as to consider mail ordering books from her. I know I will be seeking out more books from her in the future.

Omnivore Books
3885a Cesar Chavez Street
San Francisco, CA
Phone: 415-282-4712