Rant: Jancis, AHOO & Wallflowers

Four weeks ago, my Rant on Wallflowers & Mediocrity seemed to strike a chord with many people. I advised people to: "Take a risk, and then take another." Too many people strive for mediocrity, taking the safe and familiar roads. They need to challenge themselves and be willing to take risks, for you cannot attain great heights unless you are willing to make the perilous climb. Who knew that Jancis Robinson would provide similar advice to the attendees of the Wine Blogger's Conference?

Jancis was the Friday Key Note speaker at the WBC and I felt that she did an excellent job, providing the attendees with some valuable advice and suggestions, as well as some laughs. Jancis has been writing about wine since 1975, has authored a number of print books, yet also was quick to grasp the potential of online tools and social media. It was fascinating to hear her state that "The future is self-publishing." I agree that self-publishing, the surge of e-books, is radically changing the publishing world. As a voracious reader, I have seen the changes over the last few years, and e-books are rapidly moving towards becoming the norm. 

Yet that is a discussion for another time. I want to concentrate on some other advice she presented to the assembled wine bloggers, and I have summarized her recommendations into a more convenient acronym: AHOO (Accurate, Humble, Opinionated & Original). 

Accuracy is obviously important, so bloggers should do the proper research to ensure they are getting their facts right. Innaccuracy is often caused by mere sloppiness, a failure to take the time and effort to check a few resources. And that includes proper spelling.  For example, consider these matters: Eric Asimov writes about wine, not science fiction (that was Isaac Asimov). Grenache is not a Caribbean island that the U.S. once invaded (that was Grenada). Veraison does not provide telephone and Internet service (that is Verizon).  Phylloxera is not a type of dough used to make baklava (that is just Phyllo).        

Humility is also a necessity, and Jancis said "Don't hesitate to admit your ignorance." The world of wine is vast, and no one can hope to know everthing, or even close to it. But that is part of the fun, learning and discovering new things all the time. It helps prevent wine from becoming boring as there are always new roads to follow, new paths to discover. I learned a number of things at the WBC, and I hope that everyone else did as well.  Be wary of anyone calling themselves a wine "expert." I certainly know more about wine than when I first started writing about it, but I also understand how much more I still don't know. And if you have read my blog, you will have seen numerous posts where I freely have admitted my ignorance about certain issues. Be honest with your readers and don't pretend to know more than you do.

Now the Opinionated and Original aspects directly deal with issues I raised in my Wallflowers & Mediocrity rant. Though she did not use the word "risk," the sentiment was there in what she did say.  In essence, Jancis called on wine bloggers to take risks and avoid mediocrity. Did her message resonate with bloggers?  How many will actually heed her call?  How many will stop being a wallflower? 

Being Opinionated means taking a stand on various issues, opening yourself up to discussion and debate. Jancis felt there was little investigative work being done in wine blogs, little exploration of the scandals and issues confronting the wine world. One does not need to write for a major periodical to have the resources to research an investigative piece. Though such efforts can be conducted by anyone, they also entail a certain risk. Some bloggers will be unwilling to rock the boat in that regard, preferring a safer mediocrity. Writing tasting notes is safe and easy, especially when they are always positive, but is it really that satisfying? Do you ever get bored just writing tasting note after tasting note, year after after year? As you can see with my weekly Monday Rants, I am not afraid to be Opinionated.

Being Original is risky too, as the trite, over-exposed topics are the easiest and safest to write about. Do we really need fifty reviews of the same $10 California Chardonnay? Instead, why not review some Croatian wines, aged Sherry or a Norton from Virginia?  Do we really need another post about the evils of the 100 point system? Instead, why not write about wine makers in Islamic countries? Yes, being original is more work, from taking the time to ponder over what topic to cover to researching it, but it is more worthwhile. If you are going to write a post, and you know 50 other people have already written about the same topic before, maybe you should reconsider the topic. Don't be worried that your original post won't be read by a sufficient number of people. In time, that originality will pay off, delivering a quality readership who crave such a unique voice.

Wine bloggers, give heed to AHOO and be willing to take risks. The time for mediocrity is over so let a new dawn begin.

As I said before: Don't be a fucking wallflower.

Not Just Virginia Wines at the WBC

Though the Wine Blogger's Conference was held in Virginia, you could also find wines there from all over the world. From International Wine Tasting Night to The Other 46 (a showcase of wines from U.S. states like Indiana, Missouri and Ohio), there were numerous samples to taste, and as expected, the wines were a mixed bag. Some were the usual suspects, those mass produced, commercial wines that fail to excite. But I found some gems within the mix as well, especially a number of Spanish wines, which is not a big surprise to me knowing my preferences.

Some of the most intriguing wines though were poured privately, by other bloggers and attendees, at small gatherings and afterhours parties. People were very generous with their wines, offering tastes to basically anyone who happened to be around. Some of those wines were homemade, some were from the attendee's state or country, others were made from unusual grapes, and still others were rare or older vintages. At these conferences, the interactions with the other attendees is often one of the best aspects of the event. As I have said before, the best part of wine is sharing it with others, with friends both old and new. And plenty of sharing occurred!

At the Meet the Sponsors event, the first table I stopped at represented the Wines of Navarra and I was very glad that I checked out their wines. I was initially impressed with the 2010 Señorío de Sarría Viñedo No 5 Rosado ($16), made from 100% Garnacha, from 50 year old vines. It was a dry and more restrained rosado, with delicious flavors of strawberry and watermelon, and hints of herbality, especially on the finish. A perfect summer wine, and an excellent accompaniement with many different types of foods. 

The 2004 Laderas de Inurrieta ($35), made from 100% Graciano, was interesting, with flavors of leather, black cherry, and plum with some violets on the finish. Moderately tannic, it had a fairly lengthy finish that ended on an exotic note. You don't see much 100% Graciano and I recommend that you check this one out. The 2004 Palacio de Otazu Altar ($50), a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo was impressive, a muscular and complex wine that tantalized and seduced my palate. A melange of black fruit, ripe plum, spice, vanilla, mocha, and more. A "wow" wine which is well worth a splurge.

Rebecca and Marilyn, the lovely ladies of Winebow, were pouring wines from Spain, Italy and Chile. I had tasted the Chilean wines before, and enjoyed them, so was most interested in sampling the other wines. The 2007 Juve y Camps Brut Cava Nature Gran Reserva (about $15) is not your typical, inexpensive Cava. Instead, it reminded me far more of a Champagne, likely due to its dominant notes of toast and yeast. The fruit flavors, mostly citrus, were very subdued, and if you tasted this blind, I doubt you would think it was a Cava. The 2010 Tasca d'Almerita Regaleali Le Rose Sicilia ($12), made from 100% Nerello Mascalese, had luscious bright fruit, especially strawberry and cherry, with an underlying minerality. It reminds me more of California than France, and should appeal to many wine lovers seeking a more fruit-driven rose. Plus, you won't find many roses made from this grape.

One of the interesting impromptu events that I attended was a taste-off between two Blaufränkisch (the “blue grape from France") wines, one from Austria and one from Virginia.  Constance (whose birthday is tomorrow!) of Austrian Wines and the people of Wine Compass agreed to place their wines against each other, in a head-to-head battle to see which Bläufrankisch reigned supreme. The Austrian contender was the 2008 Feiler-Artinger Umiss Blaufränkisch ($22), produced from 100% Blaufränkisch and which spent 9-12 months in oak barrels and 20% in barriques.  The Virginian contender was the 2009 Otium Blaufränkisch ($20), also produced from 100% Blaufränkisch, and it is unclear whether any oak was used or not. This is the only winery growing Blaufränkisch in Virginia, and this was their first bottling.

I have previously tasted Blaufränkisch from Hungary, the Finger Lakes, Austria and Washington, and it is a varietal that I have enjoyed. So how did these two wines fare against each other? The Feiler-Artinger was delicious, with an earthy taste along side flavors of black cherry, raspberry and plum. It had some complexity, a lengthy finish, and a sense of character. The Otium presented more juicy fruit, including some blueberry and strawberry flavors, and had less complexity and character than the Austrian one. The Otium was a simple, pleasant wine and it can easily be enjoyed on its own. As a first attempt, I liked the Otium and hope the winery will continue making this wine, improving it every year.  My personal preference was for the Austrian wine but kudos to the Otium too.

On Saturday night, Vibrant Rioja held a Rioja Crawl, where participants could stop at five different local restaurants and shops, drinking some Rioja wine and nibbling on snacks. As an incentive, if you completed all five stops of the Crawl, you could enter to win a free trip to Rioja. The stops included Orzo Kitchen & Wine Bar, Feast, Zinc Restaurant & Bar, Maya Restaurant & Bar, and Brookville Restaurant. My fine Crawl group, including Adam, Andrew, Jason, Marie and Nannette, were the first ones to complete the crawl (though I technically was the first person to finish). Unfortunately, the winners of the Crawl were announced yesterday and none of my group were chosen.

The special treat of the Crawl was presented by Feast, a gourmet food shop (which I highly recommend). They offered two wines, the 2010 Muga Rosado and the stunning 2000 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rosado Gran Reserva, one of my favorite wines. An 11 year old rose? Yes, this is an unusual but fascinating and delicious wine, a true gem. Along with this killer wine, Feast offered three Spanish cheeses (Mahon, Malvarosa & Valdeon), Membrillo, Marcona Almonds, and two Spanish meats (Lomito Iberico & Chorizo). With such tasty snacks, it was tempting to end the Crawl there and just enjoy their food and wine all night. Kudos to Feast for such an excellent experience.

At other informal gatherings and parties, a few other wines stood out and deserve mention. The Aborious, a California wine made from the rare Aboriou grape was quite intriguing. It was a full bodied red, with black fruit flavors but the finish presented a melange of exotic spices that really were different. It reminded me of the spices in Asian cuisine and was certainly a unique offering. The Wines of Croatia held a great party, pouring a number of Croatian wines. I tasted a few of their whites, but sadly did not take any notes. But, I enjoyed them and most of them presented their own unique character.  I'll have to seek out more Croatian wines to expand my knowledge of that region.

Another surprise was the 2008 A Tribute To Grace ($49), an elegant and mesmerizing California Grenache, so very different from any other California Grenache I have ever tasted. Adam of Wine Zag has a more extensive review you should check out. My friend Jason, of Ancient Fire Wines (who should win a "Most Enthusiastic" WBC award), brought three of his homemade wines, including a Strawberry wine, Dandelion wine, and a Hard Cider. My favorite of the three was the Cider, which was a sweet, house blend from Lull Farm in Hollis. It had a strong apple flavor, with both sweet and tart components, and should appeal to many people. I think it would also be an excellent cooking ingredient, such as in a BBQ sauce. I wasn't a fan of the Dandelion wine, but it was very cool to get the chance to taste it. If you get a chance to taste something different, grab it!

I brought two items to the conference, a sherry and sake: the 1964 Gonzalez Byass Vintage Oloroso Sherry and the Hojo Biden “Rich Brew” Yamahai Junmai. My objective was to hopefully convince more people to explore these underappreciated drinks, and I think I was successful based on the feedback I have received. The Sherry, as expected, was a huge hit, and now I just need to find more somewhere.

The conference was not the only place where I enjoyed some fine wine and sake. During two of my outside dinners in Charlottesville, I found some treasures. At Orzo Kitchen, they had an interesting wine list, including maybe ten or so Greek wines. So I decided to try one, the 2008 Alexandra's Nostos (about $20 retail) from the Manousakis Winery.  This was an organic blend of 40% Syrah, 40% Mourvedre & 20% Grenache, a Rhone-style wine from Greece. It was delicious, with plenty of spice, plum and black raspberry flavors, and well integrated tannins. It certainly reminded me of a French Rhone wine, and was a nice pairing for both hangar steak and spaghetti Bolognese. I often prefer Greek wines that use indigenous grapes but this is an exception, and would recommend it to all who enjoy Rhone-style wines.

During a lengthy Japanese meal at Ten, we shared two bottles of sake, including the Nanbu Bijin "Southern Beauty" Tokubetsu Junmai and the Kikusui "Chrysanthemum Mist" Junmai Ginjo. The Nanbu is a superb, smooth sake, full-bodied with lush flavors of melon and peach. It is the type of sake that I could savor and drink all night long, relishing each tasty sip. The Kikisui is also very good, but it is a leaner style, less fruit driven, and with some herbal and steamed rice notes.

Expand your palate, where ever you go.

A Glimpse Into Virginia Wines: Viognier to Cabernet Franc

"Good wine is a necessity of life for me."
--Thomas Jefferson

One of the reasons I attended the Wine Blogger's Conference this year was to get the opportunity to taste the wines of Virginia, which is the 5th largest wine producing state. Who would have thought they produced so much wine? I previously tasted a couple of Virginia wines so I desired a chance to delve much deeper, to sample a broader spectrum of what they produce.  With approximately 190 wineries, spread out over 6 American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), the Virginia wine industry is a serious business. 

Attempts at growing vines in Virginia began about 400 years ago with the settlers of Jamestown, though their modern wine industry started more during the 1970s. The history of Virginia wine is fascinating, and Thomas Jefferson is a significant figure in that history. Though Jefferson's efforts at growing vinifera yielded few positive results, he would be immensely proud of the current situation of the Virginia wine industry.  Based on my experiences at the conference, how do I feel the wines of Virginia measure up?  

Unfortunately, I was only able to catch a glimpse of the nature of Virginia wines, sufficient for a basic impression but insufficient for a more substantial and accurate assessment.  I ended up tasting only about 30 Virginia wines, though there were roughly 100+ wines available. A significant reason for this discrepancy was the sweltering heat at the Monticello tasting, which I spoke about this past Monday. There were about 64 wines at the Monticello event and I tasted only two whites. I really wish I had a better opportunity to taste all of those Virginia wines, as I know I missed out on some potential winners.  I am sure most of the bloggers had similar problems, being unable to taste a significant portion of Virginia wines, under proper tasting conditions.

"Wine from long habit has become an indispensable for my health."
--Thomas Jefferson

The three main grapes of Virginia appear to be Viognier, Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot, though plenty of other grapes are cultivated as well, including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino, Muscat, Vidal Blanc, Petit Manseng, Pinot Grigio, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Tannat, Syrah, Pinot Noir, and more.  Many of the red blends seem to be Cabernet Franc based, and I was very pleased that none of the Cabernet Francs I tasted possessed those green/vegetal flavors that I dislike. I was told that such wines do exist, yet I did not ecnounter any. Alcohol levels generally ranged from 12%-14%, which I like. Stylistically, the wines were closer to Old World than New, though I believe they may possess their own identity. 

Quality wise, I found a number of good and very good wines, though none which stood out as exceptional. There were wines I disliked, as I would expect to find in any wine region. But I found enough good wines that it provided motivation for me to desire to explore the region in more depth, to better understand their wine industry. As one example, as I am a big fan of South African Pinotage, I really want to try Virginia Pinotage, but did not get to try any at the conference.  Maybe a future Taste Camp will be held in Virginia, and I'll get a chance to try 200+ Virginia wines.

Let me highlight some of the Virginia wines I tasted and enjoyed.

"I have lived temperately....I double the doctor's recommendation of a glass and a half of wine each day and even treble it with a friend."
--Thomas Jefferson

At the initial Meet the Sponsors event, two Virginia wineries poured some of their wines and I partook of what was offered.

The Boxwood Winery is one of the newer Virginia wineries, operating a seventeen-acre sustainable dry farm and producing three Bordeaux style wines, 2 reds and 1 rosé.  Unfortunately they were not pouring the rosé at this event.  At full operation, they do not plan to produce more than 5000 cases, so will remain a small, boutique winery. The 2009 Topiary ($25) was created to reflect a Saint Emilion style and is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec. A dark red color, nose of black fruit and a bold, tannic taste. It was a balanced wine, with delicious tastes of black raspberry, plum and black cherry. The 2009 Boxwood ($25) is more reflective of a Medoc style with a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petite Verdot. It seemed a bit more tannic that the Topiary, with a similar flavor profile except for more prominent plum and the addition of some blueberry flavors.  For the price, both wines would be good choices for a Bordeaux style wine.

From new to old, the Barboursville Vineyards were founded in 1976, making it one of the first wineries in the modern resurgence of the Virginia wine industry.  It was a very risky endeavor at that time, yet they took a chance and succeeded at growing vinifera grapes. Their current winemaker is Luca Paschina from Piemonte, Italy. Their 2009 Viognier Reserve ($22), which sees no oak, was pleasant, a crisp wine with bright fruit and floral notes. The 2008 Cabernet Franc Reserve ($23) also appealed to me, a more elegant wine with prominent red fruit flavors and mild spice notes.  The 2006 Octagon ($40) is a Bordeaux style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot.  It is a bold wine, with strong black fruit flavors, underlying vanilla and spice, and hints of licorice. It had nice complexity, a good balance, and a lengthy, satisfying finish. The 2007 Nebbiolo Reserve ($32) was an interesting wine, made in a Barbaresco tradition. Though very light red in color, it was a big, tannic wine with tastes of black cherry and black raspberry, as well as some herbal notes. Though I enjoyed it, I probably would not buy it at this price.

“Wine … the true old man’s milk and restorative cordial.”
--Thomas Jefferson

On Saturday, we got to visit two local vineyards and as part of Bus 1A, our first stop was at Ducard Vineyards, located at the eastern edge of the Shenadoah National Park. They have been growing grapes for a decade, first selling them off and eventually they decided to produce their own wine. They have seven acres of vineyards and try to be as green as possible. Owner Scott Elliff took us out into the vineyards, and explained about their viticultural philosophy and techniques. It is a very labor intensive process, and his passion was evident. 

Back at their tasting room, we went through six of their wines. Their 2010 Signature Viognier ($22) was nice, with tastes of peaches and citrus, accompanied by light floral notes and a nice acidity. The 2009 Vintner's Reserve Cabernet Franc ($24) was a light red color with bright red fruit tastes supported by a backbone of spice. An elegant wine, it also had some complexity and subtlety. The 2009 Petit Verdot ($30) is a big, lush wine but the tannins were well integrated. I also tasted much more red and black fruit, than the usual blueberry, with mild touch of spice. A lengthy, pleasing finish made me crave a big piece of beef with this wine.

"I think it is a great error to consider a heavy tax on wines as a tax on luxury. On the contrary, it is a tax on the health of our citizens."
--Thomas Jefferson

Our second stop was the Sweely Estate Winery, a newer winery which was established in 2004 and started planting vines in 2005.  They currently grow about 80% red grapes, all French varietals, and their winemaker, Frantz Ventre, is from Bordeaux.  They have a state of the art winery, which cost $6 million for the building alone. The winery equipment, which they purchased from France, had to have added at least a couple million on top of that. Their production costs are high and an average bottle of wine costs them $8-$10 to produce. They are not working to capacity yet, and really need to do so to make the winery profitable.

With a tasty buffet lunch, we tasted four of their wines, and my favorite was the 2007 Cabernet Franc ($21.95), a blend of 78% Cabernet Franc, 14% Malbec, 5% Petite Verdot & 3% Merlot. About 35% of the wine was aged in French oak. Like most of their wines, it initially had a restrained aroma that opened up over time.  It was a hearty, bold wine with strong black fruit and lots of spice, the type of wine screaming for a steak or a Pasta Bolognese.

"By making this wine vine known to the public, I have rendered my country as great a service as if I had enabled it to pay back the national debt."
--Thomas Jefferson

At our Saturday night, five-course dinner, we were served 12 wines from Virginia, three of the courses accompanied by three wines. I loved the first wine of the dinner, the NV Horton Vineyards Sparkling Viognier ($25), which was crisp, clean and dry with flavors of peach, citrus and white flowers. A very appealing sparkling wine which should please many people. There was then a flight of three Viogniers, and I preferred the 2010 Veritas Vineyards Viognier, which was well balanced, a medium-bodied wine with bright peach and orange flavors, as well as pleasant floral notes. The next flight of wines included two Rieslings but I best liked the 2010 Lovingston Vineyards Petit Manseng ($16.95), made from a very uncommon grape. With a touch of sweetness, balanced by a nice acidity, the wine evidenced tropical fruit flavors, including some pineapple. I can easily see how this wine would pair well with spicy dishes.  

“We could in the United States make as great a variety of wines as are made in Europe, not exactly of the same kinds, but doubtless as good.”
--Thomas Jefferson

If I had to choose my favorite Virginia wine of the weekend, I would select the NV Horton Vineyards Sparkling Viognier.  It was delicious, had character, and was a bit unusual. The runner-up wine would be the Barboursville Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Franc Reserve.

If you get the opportunity, then I recommend you try some Virginia wines.  I will continue to seek our more of their wines to taste, and hopefully in the future can give a better assessment of the status of their wine industry. But for now, I see promise in their vines.

Rant: Inferno At Monticello

I saw a wine blogger spontaneously combust at Monticello.

On the surface, it sounded like a phenomenal event, a tasting of Virginia wines, accompanied by a lovely buffet dinner, upon the beautiful grounds of Monticello, the former estate of Thomas Jefferson. Such historical significance, a sense of kinship to one of this country's most famous wine lovers. The event was part of the Wine Blogger's Conference, a gathering of over 300 wine bloggers and wine industry personnel, being held this year in Charlottesville, Virginia. Each of the participating wineries was permitted to present one white and one red wine so there was plenty of wine to taste, an excellent opportunity to get some sense of the Virginia winemaking industry.

But, for me and others, this fantastic opportunity was ruined by intense temperatures.  Outside, it was at least 100 degrees Fahrenheit, an oppressive humid heat which sucked the life out of you, even with a short exposure. Drenched in sweat, it was impossible to conduct a fair tasting of the wines that were being offered. I had little interest in tasting the red wines, and even the white wines did not entice. There were dozens of wines that I failed to taste.  Neither the tent rooftops or the scattered fans were sufficient to ease the sweltering temperature. I had to leave the event early, unable to endure the weather.

For at least a week before the Wine Blogger's Conference, we all were aware that the temperatures over the weekend could easily reach 100. So why hold such a large tasting event outside in such heat? It was not fair to the wineries as their wines obviously could not show as well as they should. From what I heard, and I don't have confirmation of such, there was a backup plan in case of inclement weather, which I assume might mean something like terrible thunderstorms. In that event, would it have been held inside somewhere? That would have made sense. So why wasn't the intense heat considered "inclement" weather, worthy of opting for a backup plan?

I believe the organizers of the conference dropped the ball in this matter. The extreme temperatures were not safe for the attendees, and had the potential to cause harm. Plus, these Virginia wines were ignored by a fair number of attendees who would have loved to taste them, but did not due to the brutal humidity. An alternative venue should have been chosen, and I think the organizers had sufficient notice to have done so.

Yes, it is difficult to begin my coverage of the Wine Bloggers Conference with something negative, yet it was something that struck me very hard. What Virginia wines I had already tasted at the conference had been encouraging, making me intent with anticipation for a much broader overview of their wines. Being unable to do so was extremely disappointing and frustrating. And I know I was far from alone. Even some people who stated they enjoyed the event, did confess they failed to try most of the red wines.

I hope this is a lesson for the conference organizers for future events.