Writing For Sampan: A Chinese-English Newspaper

"The most interesting feature of Chinese life to me was that on board their boats, or sampans, as they are called....Upon these boats live whole families of three and even four generations."
--The Fall River Daily Herald, November 20, 1888

I have a new writing gig, contributing to Sampan, the only bilingual Chinese-English Newspaper in New England. My first article for the Sampan is now available, in print and online, and you can read it here: In Search of the First Chinese Restaurant in Chinatown. The newspaper, which is distributed free-of-charge, is published bi-weekly and I've already submitted my next article.

What is a "sampan?" The newspaper's site states, "A sampan is a popular river boat in traditional China. This small but useful vessel, by transporting cargo from large boats to the village ports, creates a channel of communication among villages." And like that type of boat, Sampan delivers news and information all across New England, and "acts a bridge between Asian American community organizations and individuals in the Greater Boston area."

Sampan, which was founded in 1972, is published by the nonprofit Asian American Civic Association, "The newspaper covers topics that are usually overlooked by the mainstream press, such as key immigration legislation, civil rights, housing, education, day-care services and union activities. These issues are crucial to the well-being of Asian immigrants, refugees, low-income families as well as individuals who are not proficient in the English language."

There is plenty of interest in Sampan which will appeal to all types of readers, from restaurant reviews to historical articles, from vital news stories to travel items. In these current days when racism and prejudice against Asians and their restaurants is high, it's more important than ever that accurate information about the Asian community is disseminated and promoted. We need to combat the irrational prejudices that some possess, and support our Asian communities just as we would support any other element of our overall community. We are all important aspects of a whole, and we need to stand together.

Support Sampan!

Origins of Manhattan Clam Chowder

The beginning of a poem about Clam Chowder.
--New-England Galaxy & Masonic Magazine, September 1, 1820

Ladies and gentlemen, I present for you a Battle Royale: New England Clam Chowder vs Manhattan Clam Chowder. In the end, who shall prevail?

People often have strong opinions on which chowder version they prefer, generally dependent upon where they live, although there are exceptions. For example, though born in Oregon, famed cook James Beard moved to New York City when he was around 24 years old. You might think he embraced Manhattan clam chowder but in his book American Cookery (1972), he wrote briefly about “. . . that rather horrendous soup called Manhattan clam chowder,” and noted that it "...resembles a vegetable soup that accidentally had some clams dumped into it.”

What's your opinion?

Although tomato-based clam chowders have existed in New York since at least the second half of the 19th century, most sources claim that the first use of the term "Manhattan" Clam Chowder was in 1934. in the Soups and Sauces cookbook by Virginia Elliott and Robert Jones. In Savoring Gotham: A Food Lover's Companion to New York City (2015), edited by Andrew F. Smith, it stated, “The first located recipe titled "Manhattan Clam Chowder" was published by Virginia Elliott and Robert Jones in Soups and Sauces (1934). This recipe substituted tomatoes for milk. The name "Manhattan Clam Chowder" caught on, but it had no real association with New York City.”

Other sources would quote or use this information in their own articles. Many sources also stated that tomato-based chowders were previously known in New York by other names, including Fulton Market Clam Chowder, Coney Island Clam Chowder, and New York Clam Chowder. These sources also commonly allege that "Manhattan" Clam Chowder received its name by New Englanders who were derisive of tomato-based chowders.

In the Daily Oklahoman (OK), February 1, 2012, there was a chowder article which discussed some of the findings in The Book of Chowder (1978) by Richard Hooker. Hooker alleged that tomato-based clam chowder was "an abomination to the simple country folk of New England who derisively referred to the nouvelle chowder as 'Manhattan-style' since nothing of quality came from New York." He also claimed "By the beginning of the Great Depression, the name had stuck,.."

However, is that the true origin of Manhattan Clam Chowder? It didn't take much research to cast significant doubt upon the most commonly accepted origin tale. For example, I found a reference to Manhattan Clam Chowder predating the 1934 cookbook reference by almost 50 years. And the deeper I delved, the more fascinating I found the entire matter. There was so much more involved to the history of Manhattan clam chowder, and I became convinced of the validity of a different theory as to the true origin of its name.

Chowder was very popular in New York during the early 19th century, and as you could also find in New England, there were "chowder parties" held in various parts of New York, including Brooklyn and Long Island. These parties likely included both fish and clam chowders. The first reference I found to a chowder party in New York was in the Long-Island Star, June 26, 1834. Some chowder lovers even organized, such as the Brooklyn Chowder Association. The Brooklyn Evening Star, July 19, 1842, noted that the motto of this organization was “For the promotion of Health, Sociability and Enjoyment.” They held semi-monthly excursions, on the first and third Tuesdays, weather permitting.

Coney Island, located on a New York peninsula, had become a popular seaside resort by the mid-19th century. Seafood, including chowder, was ubiquitous at Coney Island restaurants though the first direct reference to "clam chowder" on Coney Island was in the New York Daily Herald, July 19, 1845. Prior to that time, the term "chowder' was used, but you couldn't differentiate whether it referred to fish or clam chowder, or both.

As a brief aside, in 1847, there was an "eating match" between two men in New York, a competition to see who could eat the most chowder. The Brooklyn Evening Star, August 11, 1847, noted that such eating matches, for public entertainment, were new. Two members of a chowder party, both known as “extraordinary feeders,” faced off against each other on Bergen's Island. The loser of the contest ate only 37 bowls of chowder, while the winner ate more, though the article didn't specify how much more.

The 1850s saw the formation of a number of "chowder clubs," which basically seemed to be groups who went on excursions to eat chowder together and drink. There were groups such as the Union Chowder Club, American Chowder Club, and the Ninth Ward Chowder Club. The 1850s would also see the first specific reference to “Coney Island clam chowder.” The New York Daily Herald, March 20, 1857, had a brief mention of “Coney Island clam chowder.” Unfortunately, there wasn't a description of this chowder, though it is suspected it might have included tomatoes.

Coney Island was acquiring a stellar reputation as a place for clams and chowder. The Times Union, August 4, 1862, noted that if “would you enjoy a glorious plunge in the saline-aqueous, with clam-chowder and eke the roasted bivalves afterwards? We commend to Coney Island.” The New York Times, August 20, 1863, had the first specific reference to a “clam-chowder party,” and not just a ore generic "chowder party." The Buffalo Sunday Morning News, May 6, 1877, mentioned that “Clam chowder parties are fashionable…” while their June 17, 1877 issue was the first to mention a specific “clam chowder club.”

There's mention of another specific chowder in New York. The Indianapolis News (IN), March 29, 1875, mentioned that "Fulton Market Clam Chowder" was available at a local market, without providing any description of its contents. Was it tomato-based or not? The Schenectady Evening Star (NY), October 16, 1875, mentioned that Coney Island Clam Chowder was available at the David House.

To the east of Coney Island, there was Manhattan Beach, which during the 1870s saw significant investment to turn it into a high-class tourist destination, catering to the wealthy. In July 1877, the luxurious Manhattan Beach Hotel opened and then in August 1880, the equally luxurious Oriental Hotel opened on the shore. Manhattan Beach became the most high-end resort area on the peninsula, and its creation likely plays a large role in the naming of Manhattan Clam Chowder, a topic I'll address later in this article.

An article published a year after the opening of the Manhattan Beach Hotel noted the higher food prices on Coney Island and the two other resort areas. The New York Daily Herald, July 22, 1878, reported that many people were concerns about the high food prices and hotel costs. The prices were often higher than what was found in New York City restaurants, though restaurant owners claimed that they also had higher costs as they had to bring in ingredients from a greater distance and they also had higher waste. Some comparison prices were given, for Manhattan Beach, Brighton Beach and an Uptown Restaurant. For example, stewed clams were 40 cents at Manhattan Beach, 30 cents at Brighton, and 20 cents Uptown. For fried clams, they were 40 cents at Manhattan Beach, 35 cents at Brighton, and 35 cents Uptown.

The Lancaster Times (NY), July 10, 1879, noted that at the Coney Island pier, you could have “genuine Coney Island chowder.” There would be plenty of other ads during the next couple years for this chowder.

A more detailed article was provided in The New York Times, July 14, 1879, which sang the praises of Coney Island chowder. "As the great national chowder-pot, Coney Island comes boldly to the front." But, not all of the chowders on Coney Island were the same. "And Coney Island chowder is a mystery that no man has ever yet fathomed." One man claimed to have eaten chowder at 11 different places, each one different. That person ate at Norton & Murray's, noting, "I think it was genuine chowder, for it had clams in it, and potatoes, and tomatoes." How, he didn't like that they added vinegar to the chowder. He also noted that, "At the Brighton and Manhattan beaches, where it comes on in silver pans, which cost more,.."

The article seems to indicate that Coney Island clam chowder must have tomatoes, though each restaurant still made their own version, with the addition of various different ingredients in addition to tomatoes. It's also interesting how the clam chowder was presented on Manhattan Beach, served in silver pans, presenting it as a high quality dish, elevated above the more common clam chowders on Coney Island. This is another important element in the role of the naming of Manhattan Clam Chowder.

The New York Tribune, July 21, 1879, was the first to provide a price for clam chowder, noting that Fulton Market Clam Chowder sold for 20 cents.

The first recipe I found for Coney Island Clam Chowder was in the New Family Cookbook (1885) by Juliet Corson. Corson was born in Boston though moved to New York, where she established the famed New York School of Cookery in 1886. Her cook contained a recipe for Coney Island Clam Chowder, with directions including, “Peel and slice a pint of fresh or canned tomatoes.” We see here that Coney Island Clam Chowder was tomato-based. The recipe also contained a couple different spices, including grated nutmeg and curry powder.

Interestingly, the cookbook also contained a recipe for “Clam Chowder,” which was actually very similar to that for the Coney Island version, including the fact that it used tomatoes. This was definitely not a New England version of Clam Chowder. It didn't include the nutmeg or curry as in the Coney Island version, and used celery seed, which wasn't in the Coney Island recipe. Though Corson was originally from Boston, it's obvious her love was for New York style chowder.

In 1886, another cookbook provided a recipe for Coney Island Clam Chowder. Cooking for Profit: A New American Cook Book Adapted for the Use of All who Serve Meals for a Price (Chicago, 1886), by Jessup Whitehead, was originally published in the San Francisco Daily Hotel Gazette. This indicates how far the fame of Coney Island Clam Chowder had already spread, all the way to California. The book contained a recipe for Clam Chowder: Coney Island Style, and stated, "The clam chowder so popular in the restaurants as a lunch as a lunch dish is more of a stew than soup, being thick with clams and potatoes." It also mentioned, "The Coney Island chowder contains tomatoes and herb seasonings." There was also a recipe for Clam Chowder: Boston Style, and it was noted, "This is what is called the old-fashioned sort, having no tomatoes in it."

One more cookbook. In A Few Hints about Cooking, with Remarks on Many Other Subjects (Boston, 1887), by Sarah Grier, there is a recipe for Clam Chowder, which we would call a New England style, which is made without tomatoes. However, and despite the fact Sarah lived in the Boston area, she preferred tomato-based chowder. As she wrote, "There is another recipe, which, in my opinion, is infinitely superior to the above; but it is an acquired taste, and I should not like to risk the serving of it to guests who were eating it for the first time. It is the Coney Island manner of making chowder." She noted that the main difference between the two chowder recipes, was that the Coney Island version added a half can of tomatoes, powdered thyme, Worcestershire sauce, and a sliced lemon.

Manhattan Clam Chowder appeared! The first reference I found for "Manhattan" Clam Chowder was in 1887, 47 years before what most sources claim was the first reference in a 1934 cookbook. The Buffalo Times (NY), June 25, 1887, published an ad which read, “The original boss Manhattan clam chowder at Geo. J. Bucheit’s, cor. of Ellicott and Carroll Streets, every Saturday night from 5 to 10." There's no indication "Manhattan" was used as a term of derision, and obviously use of the term occurred much earlier than the Depression. And this is but the first of many other references to "Manhattan" clam chowder which I found prior to 1934.

Back to Coney Island Clam Chowder. The Steward's Handbook and Guide to Party Catering by Jessup Whitehead (January 1, 1889) mentioned that Coney Island Clam Chowder was a “thick soup or thin stew containing tomatoes, clams, onions, potatoes, bay leaf, herbs, etc., started by frying the main ingredients together until half-cooked, then adding broth and little wine.” The book also noted another type of chowder, Tunnison Clam Chowder, which was a “seaside hotel-keeper’s specialty” that contained tomatoes and herbs, in addition to the regular ingredients.

I wasn't able to find much else about Tunnison Clam Chowder, except for a recipe first provided in the Courier-Journal (KY), April 9, 1901, which was reprinted in several other newspapers, in Indiana, D.C., New Jersey, and New York. The recipe included tomatoes, as well as a layer of milk soaked sea biscuits or Boston crackers.

During the later half of the 19th century, Delmonico's, located in New York City, was considered one of the best fine-dining restaurants in the country. Two former chefs at Delmonico wrote their own cookbooks, and both contained clam chowder recipes that included the use of tomatoes. Interestingly, both chefs referred to these recipes simply as "Clam Chowder," and didn't call it Coney Island or Manhattan chowder.

First, there was The Table: How to Buy Food, How to Cook It, and How to Serve It (1889) by Alessandro Filippini. His recipe mentioned, “Lightly scald four medium-sized tomatoes, peel and cut them into small pieces and add them to the preparation.” Second, there was  The Epicurean: A Complete Treatise of Analytical & Practical Studies (1894) by Charles Ranhofer. His recipe called for “one quart of tomatoes peeled, pressed and cut in half inch squares.”

Despite claims that New Englanders were vehemently opposed to the use of tomatoes in clam chowder, The Boston Globe, January 29, 1895, published four recipes for Coney Island Clam Chowder. A reader sought such a recipe and several people came forward, offering their own version of that recipe. Above, is the first recipe that was submitted.

The second submitted recipe.

The third submitted recipe.

The fourth submitted recipe.

The Boston Globe, February 13, 1895, also presented another recipe for Coney Island Clam Chowder. Obviously there were a number of people in the Boston area who were curious enough to make their own tomato-based chowders at home.

New York Clam Chowder! The Boston Daily Globe, June 2, 1896, briefly mentioned that New York Clam Chowder was available for Ladies' Lunch at Cook’s.

And as I start addressing chowder references from the early 20th century, I want to note that the term Coney Island Clam Chowder continued to be used throughout the entire 20th century, in a myriad of restaurant ads, all across the country, including as far west as California. It was essentially a synonym for Manhattan Clam Chowder, yet its usage didn't vanish as the use of "Manhattan" rose.

Another cookbook, Vachon's Book of Economical Soups and Entrees (1903), by Joseph Vachon, provided a recipe for Boston Clam Chowder, which didn't contain tomatoes. It also provided a recipe for Coney Island Clam Chowder which called for a “thin layer of canned tomatoes” and recommended to flavor it "with a little tomato catsup and Worcestershire.”

The Fort Wayne Daily News (IN), June 19, 1903, noted that Manhattan Clam Chowder was available at O’Reilley’s Oyster Bay. We thus see that this type of chowder was now available outside of New York, in this instance in Indiana.

The Democrat and Chronicle (NY), April 6, 1904, provided more details about Manhattan Clam Chowder, and the information seemed to indicate it had existed for some time. The article noted, “There was a time when Manhattan clam chowder was a mixture of merit, occupying a position of honor in the culinary world. Nobody ever thought of letting a Friday go by without indulging in a dish of the delicious concoction, and as much oftener is the week as the appetite called for it.” There's no indication that anyone ever saw the term "Manhattan" as a term of derision from non-New Yorkers.

The article continued, noting that many current restaurants weren't providing the quality chowder as once was available. “Metropolitan clam chowder has, however, descended to the quick lunch menu, and is no longer the succulent dish that old New Yorkers used to go wild over. Clam chowder as served in the majority of restaurants today is suspiciously like vegetable soup, with just enough of the clam flavoring to give it a name. There are still a few places in town, however, where real clam chowder may be had.”

And how is that real Manhattan Clam Chowder prepared? “Here is the way they make it: They put into iron kettles layers of nice fat pork cut into small squares, let it simmer and brown for a while, then put in a layer of claims (little necks preferred) cut into pieces, but not as small as the pork squares. Then some layers of sliced onions, potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, turnips, and on top a layer of biscuit. All this is allowed to cook slowly until thoroughly done, and never under any circumstance is it stirred until ready to serve.” The addition of a layer of biscuit is interesting, and rarely seen in other recipes at this time.

More placings serving Manhattan Clam Chowder. The Evening World, February 2, 1905, had an ad for Rothenberg & Co., "New York’s Fastest Growing Store, " that noted their restaurant offered a 5-course “Table d’Hote Lunch” for 25 cents, which included Manhattan Clam Chowder. The Gazette (Montreal, Quebec), August 11, 1905, published an ad for La Corona Hotel Café, with a Friday special including Manhattan Clam Chowder. The chowder had spread to Canada! And in The Honolulu Advertiser, July 13, 1906, they printed an ad for The Grotto Restaurant, and its lunch menu included Manhattan Clam Chowder. The chowder had spread as far west in the U.S. as it could, to Hawaii.

Manhattan tomato-based chowder had spread wide and far, all by 1906.

Again, despite claims that New Englanders didn't like tomatoes in their clam chowder, the Boston Globe, March 4, 1908, provided a recipe for Fulton Market Clam Chowder.

The San Francisco Call Bulletin (CA), April 25, 1909, offered a recipe for Coney Island Clam Chowder.

From Manhattan to Utah. The Salt Lake Tribune, July 24, 1909, published an ad for the Saltair Restaurant, which had their menu including Manhattan Clam Chowder for 15 cents.

One of the oldest, and quite vehement, attacks against the use of tomatoes in clam chowder was presented in the Salt Lake City Deseret Evening News, August 13, 1909, reprinting a column from the Washington, D.C. Times. Interestingly, the source of the derision wasn't from someone from New England. And these attacks were very rare in the newspapers during this time period.

The article stated, “What passes for clam chowder in New York is not chowder. It is soup, and poor soup. It is soup without pride of race or strength. Usually it is watery, as if prepared originally as a swimming pool for living clams. Tomatoes you will always find therein. You cannot tell a New York clam chowder by the clams, but you can always identify it by the tomatoes. If you order clam chowder and get something that resembles a cross between tomato soup and chicken gumbo, say nothing that you will be sorry for. Eat what you get, or not, as your hunger demands and your fastidiousness permits. You are face to face with that evil, misnamed concoction, a New York clam chowder. If you find a clam therein, or a section of a clam, let it alone. It is not the kind of clam which enters into the real clam chowder of these shores. It is large, tough and aged, chopped with a hatchet into little bits, and used sparingly, but not sparingly enough. The best way to eat a New York clam chowder is to throw it out of a window or send it back.” Quite harsh words.

There was a bit more positivity in an article from the Morning Union (CA), August 25, 1909. The article started, “This is a very hearty dish, generally liked." It then provided a recipe for Manhattan Clam Chowder, noting, “Get five pounds of little neck clams, this being enough for six persons. Wash and put on to boil in a saucepan with a glass of water. Cover. Steep five minutes. Strain the broth and remove the clams from the shells, cutting them in half, or if they are large, in quarters. Now brown a minced onion, a minced green pepper and a quarter pound of dried salt pork, cooking until the onion is tender. Then add four potatoes diced very small; four peeled, quartered tomatoes and six Bent’s crackers rolled into small bits. Then add the broth, two glasses of water, seasoning, a teaspoonful of Worcestershire, a wineglassful of tomato catsup, some thyme leaf juice and simmer slowly until the potatoes are done but not broken into bits. Just before serving add your clams, a pinch of sugar and minced parsley. Serve oyster crackers on the side.”

More places offered Manhattan Clam Chowder. The Indianapolis Star (IN), September 18, 1909, printed an ad for White’s, which offered Manhattan Clam Chowder for 10 cents. The Pittsburgh Daily Post (PA), March 6, 1910, had an ad for Kaufman’s, offering a Lenten Lunch with Manhattan Clam Chowder. The Oregon Daily Journal, September 5, 1912, posted an ad for The Holtz Store, with a lunch menu including Manhattan Clam Chowder. The Indianapolis Star (IN), September 27, 1912, published an ad for the Budweiser Bar and Café with Manhattan Clam Chowder for 10 cents. And the Hartford Courant (CT), April 18, 1913, had an ad for the Boston Branch Grocery, with Manhattan Clam Chowder as a Buffet Special.

Back to Canada. The Star-Phoenix (Saskatchewan, Canada), December 15, 1913, had an ad for a Café at Cairns serving Manhattan Clam Chowder for 10 cents. The San Francisco Call & Post, December 18, 1913, printed an ad for Hale’s “Pompeian Court” Restaurant which served Manhattan Clam Chowder. The Ridgewood Herald (NJ), October 8, 1914, published an advertisement for the O.K. Market, which offered a Friday special of “Home-Made Manhattan Beach Clam Chowder” for 20 cents per quart. The Buffalo Times (NY), November 13, 1914, had an ad for J.N. Adam & Co., which in their Tea Room served Manhattan Clam Chowder.

I want to highlight the use of the term, "Manhattan Beach Clam Chowder" which was mentioned in the New Jersey newspaper. This actually hints at the possible origin of the term "Manhattan" clam chowder, which might have derived from a specific location, the Manhattan Beach. By itself, this certainly wouldn't be sufficient evidence, but later in this article, the more evidence and analysis will be proffered.

Canada again. The Vancouver Sun (British Columbia), February 23, 1915, printed an ad for Ritz Café, offering a 30 cent luncheon with Manhattan Clam Chowder as one of the dishes. The St. Louis Post-Dispatch, September 30, 1915, had an ad for Stix, Baer & Fuller, mentoring their Seafood Luncheon, which cost 50 cents, and included Manhattan Clam Chowder. The Star Tribune (MN), October 22, 1915, printed an ad for The Pheasant Room West Hotel Club Luncheon with their Manhattan Clam Chowder. In Hotel Monthly, Volume 24, 1916, it was noted that Manhattan Clam Chowder served at The Cadillac in Detroit. And the Evening News (PA), March 9, 1917, had an ad for The Hampton, which had a special of Manhattan Clam Chowder for 10 cents.

Again, we see that Manhattan Clam Chowder was popular all across the country, as well as in Canada.

Canned Manhattan Clam Chowder? Despite claims that the term "Manhattan" clam chowder wasn't coined until 1934, it ended up on can labels as early as 1920. The Canner/Packer, Vol.50, 1920, mentioned that “The Gorton-Pew Fisheries Co….at its Plymouth cannery, where they also pack “Down East” and “Manhattam” clam chowder,…” So, a famed Massachusetts fishery, with a canning facility in Plymouth, produced Manhattan clam chowder in a can. They didn't seem to have a problem with tomatoes in clam chowder. And that tomato-based chowder was obviously popular enough that the fishery expected the product to be profitable.

The York Dispatch (PA), March 2, 1921, posted an ad for Manhattan Clam Chowder in a can, for 15 cents.

Another recipe for Manhattan Clam Chowder. The Times Union (NY), February 26, 1929, presented winning recipes from the Brooklyn Daily Time Recipe Contest for the Lenten season. Mrs. Catherine Gottfried won $1 for her Manhattan Clam Chowder recipe, with a list of ingredients including 5 slices of bacon, diced, 1 large can of tomatoes, 1 large onion, 4 potatoes, 5 carrots, 1 stalk celery, 1 green pepper, 1 cup diced strong beans, 6 cups water, and 1 dozen large clams.

The Morning Post (NJ), July 10, 1931, printed an intriguing recipe for Clam Chowder Souffle, which required a can of Manhattan clam chowder. This would be easy for any home cook to prepare.

The Atlanta Constitution (GA), July 18, 1933, had a recipe for Manhattan Clam Chowder, which required 2 dozen fresh clams, 4 potatoes, 3 medium onions, 1/3 cup celery, 2 slices salt pork, teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and 2 cups of canned tomatoes.

Differences between Manhattan and New England chowders. The Wilkes-Barre Time Leader (PA), May 31, 1935, mentioned that "New England clam chowder is made from clams, onions, potatoes and milk with salt pork as seasoning; Manhattan style clam chowder is more like a vegetable soup with clams since it contains clams, onions, potatoes, carrots, celery, tomatoes with salt pork, thyme and other seasonings." The article then provided a recipe for Manhattan Clam Chowder.

The Boston Herald, January 13, 1936, provided an article comparing New England and Manhattan clam chowders. It begins, "The original American chowders were made with shell fish, green turtle, corn, and okra. Gradually their ingredients were extended to include all manners of seafood, meat and vegetables--even the feathered clan has found its way into the chowder kettle with chicken chowder high in favor." It then mentions the difference of the two chowders. "New England clam chowder--a creamy blend of clams, milk and potatoes--is anathema to the New Yorker. By the same token, people from 'Down East' wince at the mere mention of Manhattan clam chowder, in which the clams frolic in a highly seasoned tomato broth."

The author of the article enjoyed both versions. "Both chowders are equally delicious (there now, we've probably started something!) but with entirely different flavors." Recipes for both versions were then provided.

A law to ban tomatoes in Clam Chowder? The Austin American-Statesman (TX), January 25, 1939, published a from a story from Augusta, Maine. It stated that, “Cooks who add tomatoes to Maine clam chowder Wednesday were threatened with the impossible penalty of digging a barrel of clams at high tide. The penalty was proposed in a bill introduced in the Maine legislature by Rep. Cleveland Sleeper Jr., who explained he was alarmed by the ‘infiltration of foreign ideas of cookery,’ which he feared would ‘throw Maine clam chowder from its culinary pinnacle.” The preamble to the bill noted that “Tomatoes and clams have no affinity either of mind or body,’ and ‘Their union in a chowder is an unholy one and leads only to the moral degradation of the principals.”

The Boston Globe, January 27, 1939, explained that Cleveland Sleeper, Jr., the Maine State Representative from Rockland, had recently presented a bill to the State Legislature to “make it illegal for housewives or others to add tomatoes to Maine claim chowder, making the so-called clam chowder, New York style." Of course lovers of tomato-based chowders weren't pleased with this idea. The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (NY), January 29, 1939 mentioned that “Tomato-loving friends of so-called ‘Manhattan clam chowder’ (named for old Manhattan Beach of the day of the steam cars) were indignant.”

That article is intriguing for its explanation for the naming of "Manhattan" clam chowder. The 1880s and 1890s were a major time for the production of steam cars, and that fits within the first documented reference I found, in 1887, of the use of the term "Manhattan." It is also supported by the reference, in a New Jersey newspaper of 1914, which referenced “Home-Made Manhattan Beach Clam Chowder.” This may be a more logical origin tale than that "Manhattan" began as a term of derision.

As mentioned previously, clam chowder was very popular on Coney Island and the resorts of Manhattan Beach and Brighton Beach. Manhattan Beach tried to differentiate itself as the resort for the wealthy, and served their clam chowder in silver pans. Why wouldn't they also try to name this chowder after themselves, differentiating it from "Coney Island" chowder, making it seem a higher-quality product? So, instead of being derived from terms of derision, "Manhattan" clam chowder was more likely a designation of alleged superiority.

The Hartford Courant (CT), January 30, 1939, noted that the New York Herald Tribune has “risen to the defense of that New York favorite, the Manhattan clam chowder with tomatoes." The article also referred to a New Jersey concoction called “bully Clam Chowder,” that was made of large juicy clams, ground ripe tomatoes, green peppers, onions, parsley, spices, salt and pepper. I haven't been able to find anything else about this type of New Jersey chowder.

The Boston Herald, February 26, 1939, reported that, in five days, there would be a Clam Chowder contest, pitting Maine chowder against Manhattan chowder. The contest would occur, at 4pm, at the Hotel Lafayette in Portland, Maine, pitting a chef from Maine against a chef from Philadelphia. The event was to be the main event of the mid-Winter frolic of the Maine Hotel Association. Rep. Sleeper would represent the tomato-free chowder, and Harry Tully, an owner of a restaurant in Philadelphia and the President of the International Stewards and Caterers’ Association, would present tomato-based chowder.

A radio debate over chowder. The Boston Globe, February 27, 1939, noted that WBZ radio hosted a debate on “Should There be Tomato in Clam Chowder." The three speakers included Rep. Cleveland Sleeper, Chef Mathias Gotwalt, and Joe DiMaggio, of the New York Yankees (who was there to defend the use of the tomato in chowder). No results of the debate were provided.

The Boston Globe, February 28, 1939, and The Town Talk (LA), March 3, 1939, gave more details about the chowder showdown. Rep. Sleeper's tomato-free chowder would be prepared by George Miller, the official cook for the Maine’s Hotel Men’s association. Harry Tully's, chowder would be prepared by Chef Julius Savinese. It was now even more clear that Sleeper's bill to prohibit tomatoes in chowder was a publicity stunt.

The results of the chowder battle were detailed in the Boston Globe, March 4, 1939 and Boston Herald, March 4, 1839. About 200 people attended the event and before the chowder contest, there were a series of Maine cookery demonstrations by Maine cooks. A top prize went to Miss Prudence Stickney, age 78, from Shaker Village at Sabbath Day Lake in Poland, for her Shaker Fish and Egg Casserole.

Eleven judges presided over the chowder battle, including Paul Mack-Hale, the President of the Massachusetts Restaurant Association; Joseph Martz, president of the Epicurean Club of Boston; Arthur Greenleaf, Maine fisheries commissioner; Ruth Wakefield, inventor of Toll House cookies; and Arthur Race, manager of the Copley-Plaza hotel in Boston. None of the judges were from New York or Philadelphia, just Maine and Massachusetts, which certainly seems a bit slanted in favor of Rep. Sleeper.

And the result? “11 of New England’s leading authorities on what’s fit to eat, agreed unanimously that clam chowder is one thing, and that ‘clam chowder, Manhattan style’ is another—an inferior article.” Chef Julius Savinese lost and the judges noted that his tomato-based chowder was “Not a bad vegetable stew.” The judges even refused to refer to it as a "chowder," calling it either a "stew" or "vegetable soup." Plus, it was mentioned that Savinese had been brought to "drown good Maine clams in a little pond of tomato sauce."

In addition, it was stated that the judges “..knew what they learned at their mothers’ knees, that a true clam chowder contains salt port, milk, Maine clams, Maine potatoes and little else. They knew that to put tomatoes into a clam chowder is to commit a crime against nature.” It was also mentioned that “Behind Representative Sleeper and his measure rallied the entire state of Maine, which loves publicity as a wolf loves meat.”

An Ohio write penned an article noting the differences of the two chowders. The Plain Dealer (OH), May 4, 1941, began with "If you want to get into a spirited argument with a New Englander all you have to say is 'Tomatoes belong in a clam chowder and not milk.'" The author also believes that Manhattan clam chowder is the most popular version, though the article includes recipes for both versions.

We now can see that the term "Manhattan" clam chowder appeared much earlier, nearly fifty years, than most sources claim. Plus, this type of chowder was available all across the country, as far west as Hawaii, and even in Canada. It was even available by the can, produced by a Massachusetts fishery, prior to 1934, when most other sources claimed the term "Manhattan" clam chowder was first used.

The early appearance, as far back as 1887, as well as other evidence and analysis, seems to indicate the term wasn't created by acts of derision by New Englanders who hated tomato-based chowder. There is some evidence, which seems reasonable, that it may actually have been named after Manhattan Beach, used as a term of superiority to differentiate it from the more "plebeian" Coney Island clam chowder.

We can also see that Boston newspapers in the later 19th century were providing tomato-based chowder recipes for its readers, so not all New Englanders opposed such a thing, at least during that time period. The chowder battles between New England and New York may be a later invention, especially as they seem far more common during the 1930s.

What are your thoughts about Manhattan Clam Chowder?

Origins Of The St. Paul Sandwich: A Missouri Invention?

(This photo of a St. Paul sandwich is courtesy of Mark, aka GastroPublico)

     "The St. Paul Sandwich — comprising an egg foo young patty, slice of tomato, pickle and iceberg lettuce sandwiched between two slices of mayonnaise-laden white bread.."
--Riverfront Times, November 15, 2006

If you've visited some of the Chinese-American restaurants in St. Louis, Missouri, or some other Missouri cities, you might have eaten a St. Paul Sandwich. It's said to be rare to find them available outside of Missouri. The origins of this sandwich are murky, and in an article in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch (MO), September 24, 1990, they stated, "We've heard of St. Paul sandwiches, but we never understood exactly why they're called that or why they're considered a St. Louis specialty." The article also quoted Real American Food, by Jane & Michael Stern, that, "The mystery is that no Louisian seems to know how St. Paul's got their name. Why aren't they called St. Louises?"

It's certainly interesting that in 1990, a major newspaper in Missouri had no information about the origins of the St. Paul Sandwich. Eventually, a potential origin tale arose, which now seems to be the most commonly shared legend about this intriguing sandwich. It's claimed that the sandwich was invented by Steven Yuen at Park Chop Suey in St. Louis. It's further alleged that Yuen named the sandwich after his hometown of St. Paul, Minnesota. The alleged date of its origin varies, ranging from the 1940s to the 1970s. However, is this legend true, and if so, is there proof?

When and where did the St. Paul sandwich originate? And is it only a regional Missouri dish?

Very soon after I started researching this sandwich, I was surprised to find a mention of a St. Paul sandwich from 1903! None of the background articles I'd read had even suggested the sandwich, by that name, was that old. And if so, Steven Yuen definitely didn't invent or name the sandwich. I was convinced to conduct a deeper delve into the origins of this sandwich, to ascertain what I could learn about its origins.

The first reference I found mentioning the St. Paul sandwich, and not surprisingly, was in The Appeal (St. Paul, MN), October 17, 1903. There was an ad for Mills' Sandwich room, and it was suggested you get "the new and popular St. Paul sandwich." So, it looks like the sandwich was invented around that time period and likely was named after the city. However, the article didn't describe the sandwich. A later issue of The Appeal (MN), April 29, 1905, published an ad for J.S. Mills’ Lunch & Sandwich Room, mentioning that a St. Paul sandwich cost 10 cents.

Who would have suspected the St. Paul sandwich extended back to 1903? However, we still need more information as this initial article didn't describe the nature of this sandwich.

It wouldn't be until 1913 that I found a description of the sandwich. The Evening Herald (KS), December 9, 1913, stated, “Egg sandwiches are ten cents in most places where they have been five although some have charged ten for several months. Ham-and-egg sandwiches bring fifteen pennies from that over-drawn purse. A St. Paul sandwich, made of ham, eggs and sometimes onions, is also drawing down the sum of three nickels.” The St. Louis Post-Dispatch (MO), March 4, 1916, also provided a brief recipe for the sandwich, “Scramble eggs in bowl; chop ham fine; add onions and parsley.”

We thus see that this St. Paul sandwich is not the exact same as the one using Egg Foo Young, although as Egg Foo Young is basically an omelet, it's a kind of egg sandwich roughly similar to the original St. Paul sandwich. This original sandwich is a clear ancestor to the Egg Foo Young sandwich, and also makes me strongly suspect that this is the true source of its name, building upon an existing name for the Chinese-American variation. As we can see, the original St. Paul sandwich was known in Missouri at least as far back as 1916.

There were other similar sandwiches to the original St. Paul's Sandwich, some which just were alternative names based on geography, and others which were slight variations on the ingredients. Some of these alternate names include the Denver Sandwich, Western Sandwich, and Manhattan Sandwich.

The first, and brief, mention I found for the Denver Sandwich was in the Sioux City Journal (IA), May 5, 1901. The first references to the Western Sandwich were in the Poultney Journal (VT), April 22, 1904, which had an ad for a new lunch room that sold the Western Sandwich for 10 cents, and the North Adams Transcript (MA), December 15, 1904, which had an ad mentioning the “Western Egg Sandwich.”

The Janesville Daily Gazette (WI), December 9, 1909, had the first mention of a Manhattan Sandwich, where it was listed on a restaurant menu which also included the Denver Sandwich, so we can see those two sandwiches were different in some respect. The previously mentioned Appeal (MN), April 29, 1905, also presented a menu listing a St. Paul sandwich as well as a Denver Sandwich, also for 10 cents. A number of other menus in newspapers over the course of a number of years, would feature both of these sandwiches.

However, what were the fillings in these sandwiches? And which were just synonyms for the same sandwich?

The Berkshire Eagle (MA), December 16, 1907, had a brief mention that the Western sandwich was made with ham. Then, the Daily Missoulian (MT), February 1, 1909, referenced some restaurant slang, noting the Denver Sandwich was made with minced ham, eggs, and onions. Next, the Press & Sun-Bulletin (NY), October 5, 1911, stated the Western Egg Sandwich was made with minced ham and egg but the Boston Post, October 29, 1916, printed that “A Western sandwich consists of ham and onions all chopped up and fried with an egg.”

The St. Louis Post-Dispatch (MO), April 28, 1919, noted that “a St. Paul Sandwich which is composed principally of ham and eggs.” The South Bend Tribune (IN), June 9, 1922, stated that the Manhattan Sandwich had a fried egg, minced ham, and onion.

So, we're actually left with somewhat of a confusing situation, one that acquired some resolution in later years, though some confusion would remain. In short, it seems that the Western, Manhattan and St. Paul sandwiches were essentially the same, with the Denver sandwich being slightly different, and that difference later appeared to be the addition of green peppers to the sandwich. However, the lines between these four sandwiches is blurry, and there are exceptions found. These sandwiches also were known all across the country.

More blurred lines. The Algona Upper Des Moines (IA), September 3, 1940, published, “If you order a Denver sandwich you get egg, onion, chopped meat…if you order a St. Paul sandwich, you get the same thing but with green pepper instead of onion…if the cook likes you, maybe you’ll get both onions and green peppers.” And then the Amarillo Daily News (TX), June 9, 1950, noted that, "A sandwich made of scrambled eggs mixed with chopped-up ham and green peppers is known as a Denver or St. Paul sandwich. There’s a slight difference. You add onions to one. The question is, which one.” It all seems to depend on where you order your sandwich.

So, how did the original St. Paul sandwich evolve into an egg foo young sandwich?

There doesn't appear to be much information readily found online about Steven Yuen of Park Chop Suey. The Riverfront Times, November 15, 2006, indicated that Yuen opened his restaurant in the mid-1970s, which seems to indicate his version of the St. Paul sandwich wasn't invented prior to that time. And if it existed before the opening of his restaurant, then he wasn't the inventor. Further research provided a clearer answer to this matter.

In the Indianapolis Star (IN), June 24, 1962, there was an article about recent changes at The Lantern restaurant, which was owned by the Chung family. Their menu included an Egg Foo Young Sandwich for 40 cents. This was the earliest mention of such a sandwich I was able to find, and obviously predates any sandwich Yuen might have created in the 1970s. The Indianapolis Star (IN), April 21, 1963, also mentioned a restaurant, the China Palace, which served an Egg Foo Young Sandwich. Their sandwich was served open-faced on bread and topped by gravy.

A recipe appeared! The Arkansas Democrat (AR), July 18, 1963 and the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette (PA), August 1, 1963, presented the same recipe for "Oriental Egg and Shrimp Sandwiches," an "Americanized version of the famous Chinese dish, Egg Foo Young." Basically, you make an omelet similar to Egg Foo Young, which is placed onto a hamburger bun, to which is added tomato slices, watercress and soy sauce. An Egg Foo Young sandwich!

The Green Bay Press-Gazette (WI), August 7, 1963, published the same recipe but added some introductory information lacking in the other article. One of the most interesting bits is that this is a low-calorie recipe, about 235 per serving. Both the Daily Journal (NJ), August 28, 1963, and Clarion-Ledger (MS), September 5, 1963, repeated the information from the Green Bay newspaper. During the early 1960s, the idea of an Egg Foo Young sandwich appeared across the country, from Arkansas to Wisconsin, Missouri to Pennsylvania.

Wong's Chinese Frozen foods appeared to have been around since at least 1950, and one of their products was frozen Egg Foo Young. The San Diego Union (CA), January 8, 1964, presented one of Wong's ads, explaining how their frozen Egg Foo Young could be used to create an "Eastern Denver" sandwich, simply placing the patties between a couple slices of bread. The Battle Creek Enquirer (MI), June 9, 1966, also noted a restaurant selling a Hot Egg Foo Young Sandwich, with gravy, for 65 cents.

Clearly, Yuen wasn't the first to put egg foo young between two slices of bread to make a sandwich. At best, he might have been the first to add mayo, lettuce, tomato, and pickles to his sandwich, a minor variation to a pre-existing sandwich idea. His version simply became very popular in Missouri and acquired a legend all its own, ignoring all of the history that came before.

Plus, it seems probable that Yuen adopted the name, St. Paul Sandwich, from the long-existing "omelette" sandwich, rather than naming it after his hometown. It just happened to be a happy coincidence Yuen was from St. Paul. I'll also note that the claims about Yuen being the inventor and namer of the St. Paul sandwich all come from at least second-hand sources. I haven't found any sources that directly quoted Yuen about the invention. He might never had made such a claim. It might have been those around him who created the myth around Yuen and the St. Paul sandwich.

So, do you want to enjoy a St. Paul Sandwich now?

The First Chinese Restaurants Outside Boston (Part 7--North Adams & Brockton)

Where were these first Chinese restaurants located? When did they first open? Did they have difficulties in the cities and towns where they were situated? What are their stories?

I've previously written a five-part series, The First Restaurants In Boston's Chinatown, and I'm now expanding my coverage to include the rest of Massachusetts. This is a work in progress, and I'll be adding additional cities and towns in the future parts of this new series. Part 1 dealt with Cambridge and Fitchburg; Part 2 with Pittsfield and Malden; Part 3 with Springfield, Part 4 with Fall River, Part 5 with Lowell, Part 6 with Quincy, and now Part 7 deals with North Adams and Brockton.

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As I detailed previously, in June 1870, 75 Chinese workers came to North Adams to work in a shoe factory. They brought two cooks with them and had their own kitchen at the shoe factory, where they lived. Over the next ten years, some of those workers left, but others arrived to replace them, until the later half of 1880, when there were essentially no Chinese workers remaining. Some of the Chinese returned to China, others went to San Francisco, and some likely settled in Massachusetts. However, the first Chinese restaurant in North Adams didn't arrive until 1917, much later than you might have expected.

The North Adams Transcript, December 1, 1917, reported that a Chinese restaurant was coming to town, which had been promised to come for the past several months. The restaurant was to be located on the second floor of the Bradford block on Main Street, over the store of J.E. Miller. It was noted that some citizens had opposed the idea of this restaurant but that it would still open within a short time. The name of the restaurant wasn't given, and there didn't appear to be any further references to this restaurant.

It seems that plans for a second Chinese restaurant didn't appear until 1923, though those plans went nowhere. The North Adams Transcript, August 15, 1923, mentioned that couple Chinese, who ran a chain of restaurants, were looking for a spots in the city for a new restaurant. However, it was quickly noted that those plans fell through.

A month later though, the North Adams Transcript, September 8, 1923, reported that two other Chinese, Wang Foo of Boston and W.J. Toy of Burlington, Vermont, had purchased The Crystal Lunch, on Main Street, and would turn it into a Chinese-American restaurant. The two men owned other restaurants in Boston, Burlington, Vermont, and Bangor, Maine.

The new Chinese restaurant was opened in early 1924. The North Adams Transcript, February 28, 1924, published an ad for The Oriental, at 98 Main Street, offering a special Sunday dinner for $1.00.

Five years later, the North Adams Transcript, December 2, 1929, reported that there had been a large fire at The Oriental Restaurant, also noting that the owner was now Fred Young. The fire swept through the interior, causing several thousand dollars of damage. The fire’s origin was unknown but it was thought to have started near the cashier’s desk in the front of the restaurant. The kitchen was not damaged, but in the dining room, the tile walls, steel ceiling and tile floor were extensively damaged, and all of furnishings, including an electric player piano, booths, tables, etc. were destroyed. Despite that damage, the restaurant was apparently opened by January 2, 1930.

About five years after the party, the North Adams Transcript, November 20, 1934, reported that The Oriental Restaurant had been seized under a mortgage foreclosure. Fred Young and his staff had left the city. Though the restaurant closed, there were ongoing negotiations to reopen it. It would reopen, but no longer as a Chinese restaurant. The North Adams Transcript, January 7, 1935, mentioned that E.K. Daily, of Bennington, Vermont, would open a restaurant and ice cream parlor.

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Opening a Chinese restaurant in Brockton was extremely difficult, especially because of the opposition of organized labor organizations. Because of this opposition, there seems to have only been a single Chinese restaurant able to overcome the obstacles, and last for at least 15 years.

The Boston Herald, April 7, 1909, briefly mentioned that there was a Chinese restaurant on Ward Street but no details were provided, and I never found any other references to this restaurant. It may have existed for only a very short time.

The primary Chinese restaurant during this time period was first mentioned in the Boston Herald, November 26, 1911. The restaurant opened on Main Street about two month ago and faced some significant, and active, opposition. Initially, about three weeks before, certain city officials refused to attend a dinner at the restaurant. Afterwards, the Central Labor Union branded the restaurant as “unfair to labor,” and refused to allow the the Chinese waiters to join their organization. The labor organizations wanted the restaurant to shut down, and they passed out circulars which encouraged people not to patronize the restaurant. The restaurant owners, vowing to fight to the end, made an appeal to Mayor Howard but the owners claimed that the Mayor didn't help them.

Soon after, there was an upcoming mayoral election. The Boston Herald, December 3, 1911, noted that on December 5, the public would vote for Mayor Harry Howard or the ex-mayor William Clifford, and the election was expected to be close. However, the article noted that Mayor Howard had decided to approve the license for the Chinese restaurant on Main Street, earning him some anger from the labor unions. Ex-Mayor Clifford stated he would not have approved the license. In the end, Mayor Howard was re-elected and the restaurant continued to operate.

The Boston Globe, April 12, 1913, reported on a City Hall hearing about the renewal of the license for the Chinese restaurant. Over 400 people attended the hearing at City Hall, most opposing the license, and all who were representations of labor organizations. Apparently, the license was granted and the restaurant continued to operate. Curiously, none of these articles had yet provided the name of the restaurant.

Six years later, the Boston Herald, October 28, 1919, discussed the attempt of another Chinese restaurant to open in Brockton. This time, the Aldermen, with the backing of labor organizations, rejected the license application of Shangtun, a restaurant project backed by a $50K corporation. It was noted that only one Chinese restaurant had been successful in gaining permission to open in the city, although it still garnered opposition at times.

The restaurant's name is finally revealed! The Boston Herald, October 3, 1926, published an advertisement for the Nanking Restaurant, located at 173 Main Street, and stated to be "Brockton’s leading Chinese restaurant (thought it was also the only such Chinese restaurant). It was also noted that the restaurant had been around for 15 years, since 1911. Unfortunately, I couldn't find anymore about the Nanking, so don't know how much longer it lasted.

To Be Continued....

What's A Chop Suey Sundae?

Well have you? When I asked this question on social media, almost no one seemed to have even heard of a Chop Suey Sundae. Some people thought I was joking, that such a thing couldn't exist. I was serious though, and once I explain the nature of this "Sundae," I think people will be seeking it out, or try to make it at home.

The key to understanding the Chop Suey Sundae is knowing that it doesn't actually contain any of the usual Chop Suey ingredients. No meat, onions, celery, bean sprouts, mushrooms nor any other similar ingredients. There are also two different versions of the Chop Suey Sundae, one which is more of a drink and the other which is more of a dessert to eat.

The drink version was invented first, in 1903, but by 1904, the second version had appeared. And both versions could be found all across the country. The Chop Suey Sunday also has existed throughout the 20th century, and you can even find recipes for it in newspapers from the early 21st century. So maybe it's time for you to try one.

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The first newspaper reference I found for a Chop Suey Sundae was in the Sterling Daily Standard (IL), May 14, 1903, which briefly mentioned that the Chop Suey Sundae was available at Hallett's Fountain.

The Milwaukee Journal (WI), June 19, 1903, had an ad that mentioned the Chop Suey Sundae, but didn't describe it. There was another brief mention in the Manhattan Mercury (KS), July 15, 1903, noting, “Try a Chop Suey Sundae at Manhattan Candy Kitchen.”

The first description of the sundae was provided in the Plain Dealer (OH), July 26, 1903, which discussed an article about Chicago. The article stated that the “Chop suey sundae is a great favorite,…it has absolutely none of the ingredients in the Chinese preparation from which it takes its name nor is it eaten with a chopstick. It is a combination of dates, figs and nuts all flavored with a special mixture of syrups and ices.” It was essentially a soda fountain drink, and a new fad that quickly spread across the entire country.

More detail was given in the Indianapolis Journal (IN), August 2, 1903, quoting an article from the Kansas City Journal. It stated, “The ingredients of the real chop suey of Chinatown are not used in the chop suey sundae. The drink gets its name because it resembles chop suey in hue. It is, in fact, black—black as midnight. It might be called a nocturne.” The writer watched as his server “...mixed together dates, figs, chocolate and soda water” and then commented that “The drink, when it was finished, looked like some sort of effervescent ink.”

As Chop Suey was such a hugely popular dish during this time period, the term was apparently used to entice people to try the new soda fountain drink. And its very loose connection, a shared color, was sufficient for many to use the term.

Trying to firm up a connection, the Daily Chronicle, August 6, 1903, published an ad for Brown’s Drug Store, noting that "every lady" who bought a Chop Suey Sundae would receive a free pair of “Genuine Chinese Chop Sticks.” You obviously couldn't use the chop sticks for the fountain drink, so they were intended only to capitalize on the popularity of the Chop Suey dish.

The Macksville Enterprise (KS), August 7, 1903, quoting from a Chicago article, mentioned that, “Every season something new in this line is introduced. This year the chop suey sundae is one of the new ones that has proven popular. Its name belies its contents, as it is but a mixture of dates, figs and notes, flavored with sirups and ices.”

How much did a Chop Suey Sundae cost? The Fitchburg Sentinel, September 9, 1903, noted that a local druggist sold them for 10 cents. And ads from other places across the country generally sold them for the same price.

The Elkhart Truth (IN), May 5, 1904, published an ad for Leonard’s Soda Menu, noting that the Chop Suey Sundae cost 10 cents.

A different version appears. The first newspaper reference I found referring to the Chop Suey Sundae as more of an actual sundae, as we now know it, and not a fountain drink was in The Cleveland Leader, (OH), August 7, 1904. It stated, “Chop suey sundaes are perhaps enjoying the widest popularity of all of the new aspirants for public favor in the ice cream line. One of these sundaes is made by filling a glass with ice cream, pouring over the cream a syrup made of dates, figs, and maple syrup, and topping the whole with a sprinkling of chopped nuts.” Essentially, the fruit and nut mixture that would have gone into the fountain drink was made into a sauce and put atop ice cream as a topping.

Over the years, both versions would continue to co-exist, although the sundae style would eventually be more dominant. The Evening Star (DC), August 17, 1906, still made the fountain style, from fruits with a dash of currants, raisins and figs, all blended together, and selling for 5 cents a cup.

Another, and even fancier fountain drink, was listed in the Detroit Times (MI), January 20, 1910, in an ad for Crowley, Milner & Co.  They used 8 different kinds of crushed fruit, with walnuts, almonds, pecans and filberts, all diluted with pure maple syrup. Though it regularly cost 10 cents, it was offered as a special for only 5 cents.

The National Soda Fountain Guide (1913), by William S. Adkins, is a fascinating book about the operation of a Soda Fountain, and contains some information about the making of a Chop Suey Sundae. It states, "As the name indicates, these constitute various mixtures. Chopped dates, figs, and raisins make a good Chop Suey combination. Place a scoop of ice cream in a cup and sprinkle it with the chopped fruit. Or mix the chopped fruits with a heavy syrup and pour over the ice cream." It then continued, "Chopped fruits are apt to get sticky and will work better with the addition of syrup. Chopped nuts of all sorts may be added to the Chop Suey mixtures; also sliced pineapple, candied fruits, shredded cocoanut, preserved ginger, and almost any confection of this sort you care to use."

The book also gives instructions on how to make a Chop Suey Double Sundae. "Take raisins, dates and figs, in equal quantities, chop them and mix with enough simple syrup of a heavy grade to permit the mixture to pour easily. This is the chop suey mixture." After making this mixture, "Now place any two desired kinds of ice cream in the usual mounds on the serving dish. Pour a small ladle of the chop suey mixture in the space between the two mounds of ice cream. Top with a whole cherry or with a whole berry in season. Prepared cocoanut ay also be introduced into the chop suey mixture, and a little candied ginger is added by some dispensers."

There was a variation, the Nut Chop Suey Double Sundae which basically added nuts instead of raisins. Plus, there were recipes for a Chop Suey Mouuse and a Chop Suey Parfait. I've seen a number of online articles which have claimed that this book contained a Chow Suey Sundae recipe that included the use of Chow Mein noodles. After scrutinizing all of the recipes in this book, I can positively state that it doesn't contain such a recipe. And Chow Mein noodles are not mentioned a single time in the book. There are soda fountains that made Chop Suey Sundaes with Chow Mein noodles but this book wasn't their source, and it was rare during the first half of the 20th century.

The Rockford Republic (IL), July 16, 1919, in an advertisement for Allen's Ice Cream, provided a nice drawing of their Chop Suey Sundae.

As a variation, the Lake County Times (IN), November 29, 1919, published an ad for the Summers Pharmacy and their Soda Fountain, noting they sold a Hot Chop Suey Sundae, where the fruit and nuts "dressing" was hot. This was the only mention I found of a hot version.

Another drawing of a Chop Suey Sundae was in the Baltimore Sun (MD), August 20, 1922. This seems different as the only fruit mentioned was a single cherry, and it was topped by marshmallow. This sundae also sold for 15 cents.

Want to make a Chop Suey Sundae at home? The St Joseph Gazette (MO), April 26, 1924, offered a simple recipe. It isn't too similar to some of the other sundaes, and is more akin to a Banana Split.

And there was another new version in the Riverside Daily Press (CA), February 21, 1928, more similar to some of the earlier versions.

If you want other Chop Suey Sundae recipes, a quick Google search will find plenty. And now that you know what it is, I suspect you'd like to eat one. I'm most curious about the fountain style sundae and may try to make one sometime in the future, when things get more normal again.

(FYI: This is NOT an April Fool's prank post!)