Rant: Celebrating the Year of the Rabbit

It is the Chinese Year of the Rabbit. So how should you celebrate?  Well, I think an excellent way to do so would be to eat some rabbit.     

"Put the bunny back in the box."
--Cameron Poe, Con Air

Yes, there will be plenty of people who will recoil at the idea of dining on rabbit.  How can anyone eat a cute, fuzzy bunny? Some people may have had a rabbit as a pet, keeping it in a small hutch, and thus feel squeamish about eating something they once had as a dear pet. But people should be eating rabbit as it is one of the most nutritious and sustainable meats that exists. 

Around 1100 B.C., when the Phoenicians first came to Spain, they found rabbits there and it is probable that they then spread rabbits throughout the Mediterranean region. The ancient Romans enjoyed rabbit meat, and they even created leporaria, walled areas where they raised rabbits for later slaughter. There once was even a Roman law that all young women had to eat rabbit because it was thought it would make them more beautiful.

Rabbits have continued to be eaten as food throughout history, though consumption in the U.S. has apparently declined greatly at least over the last hundred years. Have you ever noticed that it seems almost every movie about the Middle Ages shows rabbit being eaten? Nowdays, Europeans are far more amenable to dining on rabbit and France is the largest producer and consumer of rabbit.  My first time eating rabbit was when I was in Spain over 15 years ago.

Why should we eat more rabbit?

First, it is an excellent sustainable choice, far more sustainable than beef, pork, lamb or poultry.  Rabbits eat grass and marginal forage, thus they do not compete for resources with people and are more easily fed than many other animals.  They will even eat food scraps, which would be a great use for all of our vast food waste. We all know how rapidly rabbits can reproduce and they are available year round.  Rabbits require little space, certainly much less than other food animals.  You could even raise rabbits at home, which is relatively easy to do. It is said that a rabbit can produce six pounds of meat for the same amount of resources which a cow needs to produce a single pound. 

The carbon footprint of raising rabbits is far lower than other common food animals, and thus much better for the environment.  As the demand for meat continues to increase, it may be impossible to meet that demand without causing significant environmental problems due to increased resource intensity. Beef may be the largest offender, requiring significant resources which could be instead used for other purposes which might better feed more people.  The increased consumption of rabbit could alleviate these issues, as rabbits require far lesser resources.  It is something that needs to be seriously considered.

Second, rabbit meat is very healthy and nutritious. The U.S. Department of Agriculture has even stated that rabbit is the most nutritious meat. Rabbit has only 795 calories per pound, compared to chicken at 810, turkey at 1190, beef at 1440 and pork at 2050. Rabbit also has the highest percentage of protein of any meat. In addition, rabbit has a lower percentage of fat and less cholesterol than chicken, turkey, beef, or pork.  Rabbit is easily digested, and has very high levels of Omega-3's and other good fats. Those are all good reasons to opt for rabbit.  

Third, and a very important reason, rabbit tastes good. It has a mild and slightly sweet flavor, in some respects like chicken, though it can also remind you of veal or even pork. You won't find it to have a gamey flavor, which can be offputting to some. Plus, nearly all of the rabbit is white meat, which appeals to many people.  It is generally lean meat, so be careful about overcooking it. In addition, different parts of the rabbit have different characteristics so you can get a variety of flavors within the rabbit.  If you tasted rabbit blind, you would very likely enjoy the meat though you probably would not realize it was rabbit. 

Rabbit can sometimes be found in local restaurants and some of my favorite rabbit dishes have been at Prezza in the North End.  In fact, at my upcoming Sake dinner at Prezza, there will be a Rabbit Parmigiano on the menu. You can also find it at some grocery stores, including the major chains, though it often is a whole rabbit.

The main resistance to eating rabbit appears to be primarily psychological. It is seen more as too cute to eat, too much like a pet. Yet those who actually eat rabbit find out how delicious it can be. Plus, as it is so sustainable and nutritious, more people should be eating rabbit. Break through that psychological wall and try some tasty rabbit. It is good for you, good for society, and good for the environment.

Celebrate the Year of the Rabbit with a fine dish of rabbit.

For more information, and some cool butchery shots and a rabbit recipe, check out The Leather District Gourmet's rabbit post, Of Rabbits and Roller Coasters - Dread, Thrills, and Calm for a new Butcher.

International Boston Seafood Show: Ten Things You Should Know

Tomorrow is Meatless Monday so where should you go out to dine? I have an unorthodox choice for you. It certainly would not be your first choice, and may not even be on your radar at all, but I think you should consider visiting the 2011 International Boston Seafood Show, currently being held at the Boston Convention & Exhibition Center. The show began today and runs through Tuesday.

So why am I recommending a seafood show?  I'll get to that in a moment so please be patient.  First, let me provide you a little background.   

I attended a previous International Boston Seafood Show and spent most of today there as well. It was a long, fun and tasty day.  Plus, I will be returning there tomorrow, and possibly even Tuesday, so maybe I will see you there if you choose to go. 

This year, I received a free ticket to the show from iPura, a food safety and quality assurance company, which has been showing its love for Boston Food Bloggers. (Above, that is Jason of iPura.) They are also holding a special contest for local bloggers, the 1st Annual iPura Tweet & Blogfest at IBSS 2011, where all you need to do is write a blog post about the show, and tweet about it five times. You can visit their site for the rest of the rules, which are relatively simple and straight forward. For me, as I would  have written and tweeted about the show anyways, entering the contest was easy.

For my initial post about the seafood show, I wanted to present Ten Things You Should Know about the show, to give you a much better picture of its scope and diversity, and maybe motivate you to check it out. 

1. It is truly international.
Representatives of over 90 countries, including such places as China, Japan, Phillipines, Vietnam, Oman, Korea, Malaysia, Canada, Iceland, Scotland, Mexico, and Chile, attend this event.  You'll also find representatives of a number of U.S. states, including places like Alaska, Florida, North Carolina, Louisiana, and Georgia.  You can "visit" many different countries and regions yet never leave Boston.  As you walk down the aisles, you will hear various languages spoken, and the diverse peoples seem to get along quite well.  Maybe this should be a lesson for all international relations.

2. It is a huge event.
With over 800 exhibitors, there is plenty to see and a single day is probably not sufficient to visit even the majority of them, especially if you take the time to talk to the people behind the tables.  But that size permits a huge diversity of products, appealing to different preferences, desires and needs.  If you are not seeking ice machines for a restaurant or company, just ignore that booth and seek out what does call to you, maybe some oysters or shrimp.  But also seek out something new to you, as everyone needs to expand their palates and you might find a new favorite. Be prepared to do lots of walking and standing, though you will find some places to sit for a rest. 

3. Every booth tells a story.
Whatever booth you stop at will have its own interesting story to tell. It might be a family business, started a few generations ago.  They might sell a less common seafood type, which you can learn all about it. The people might have created a compelling new product, and could have an interesting origin tale. Maybe they offer a sustainable seafood product but from a region not known for such practices. It is a fertile ground for writers who can easily find plenty of ideas for stories.  And if you don't write, the tales are still fascinating to hear and will give you fodder for the watercooler the next day. Who doesn't enjoy a great story?

4. It is a business event.
The exhibitors and most of the attendees are there to do business.  The exhibitors all have products or services they wish to sell, and you could see them taking care of business, seated with potential customers, speaking in hushed tones. You will be able to obtain ample brochures and flyers, and my own bag was quite heavy by the end of the day, stuffed with information about many different vendors.  Many of the products displayed at the show may end up at local restaurants or grocery stores so you might be getting advance notice of something special.

5. It is an educational event.
You can learn many things at the various booths, about various types of seafood, from catch methods to recipes. You can also learn about the different regions where all the seafood comes from, such as the chilly regions of Iceland or the waters of Japan.  Besides the booths, there are also educational seminars, in four different tracks: Retail, Foodservice, Processing/Service, and Sustainability. You can find sessions such as Salmon Summit, Selling Diners on Sustainability, and Puttting Sustainable Seafood Policies into Practice. If you have any questions about seafood, you may be able to get them answered here. 

6. It is a fun event.
It is not "all work and no play." You can watch such fun activities as the 5th Annual Oyster Shucking Competition, a speed shucking contest.  Hope no one slips with the knife!  Or check out the Game Lounge, where you can take a break and play a Wii game, ping pong, or some other game. Some of the vendors have their own games or contests at their tables. For example, Copper River Salmon offered a trivia question, which I guessed correctly and won a small prize.

7. There is a wide diversity of seafood.
You will be familiar with much of the seafood that is available, but some may be new to you as well.  Some of the selection includes: Arctic char, barramundi, catfish, cod, croaker, dogfish, flounder, grouper, hake, herring, mackerel, opah, perch, pollock, rainbow trout, sablefish, salmon, sardines, tilapia, tuna, turbot, and more. Which of those fish are new to you?  I was happy to see all of the small fish which were highlighted, from anchovy to smelts, as they are usually a very sustainable choice. You'll find plenty of shellfish, including lobster, crab, scallops, conch, oysters and more. You'll even find more exotic fare such as alligator, caviar, frog legs, and eel. I do like alligator. There isn't much that lives in the sea which cannot be found here.

8. Sustainability is prevalent.  
It seems that more exhibitors this year are concerned about issues of sustainability, as well as presenting more sustainable seafood. This is obviously a very good thing, as protecting the bounty of the sea is a crucial issue. I feel more positive about matters when I see so many exhibitors who are similarly concerned. And if you want to learn more about sustainability, you can discuss the issues with various exhibitors as well as attend some of the sustainability seminars. It was also good to see they will have a seminar, Selling Diners on Sustainability, which will help restaurants sell more sustainable seafood.

9. Seafood is healthy.
As I have written before, seafood is often a very healthy choice. Fish contains Omega-3s, polyunsaturated fats, which have been proven to significantly reduce the risk of cardiovascular death. In fact, this is the only dietary factor where there is clear proof that it can reduce cardio-related deaths.  The health benefits of seafood are highlighted by a number of exhibitors, providing additional reasons why you should be partaking of more seafood and eating less red meat.
 
10. There are tons of seafood samples available!
Even if you don't care about the previous nine items, this item alone should convince you. The vast majority of exhibitors offer free samples of their seafood, a diverse mix of delicious choices. Sushi to crabcakes, oysters to grilled lobster tail, fried shrimp to grilled catfish, and plenty more. There is so much food here, you won't need to eat breakfast, lunch or dinner because you will already be full and sated. I ate lots today, enjoying much of what I tasted, and I will highlight some of the foods in future posts.  My only complaint is that they need more drinks available, even if only water.

That might not be a very happy fish, but if you check out the International Boston Seafood Show, you will leave smiling. As well as pleasantly sated from all that delicious seafood.

Shikisankon: Drink Sake, Don't Eat

Sake has long been a social beverage in Japan, and often used to celebrate and support relationships.  This concept became more formalized during the Muromachi period (1336-1573 A.D.) when samurai devised the ceremony of shikisankon.  This was an intriguing ceremony, which can be summarized as "Drink sake, don't eat," and is even more fascinating because food is served. 

Shikisankon involves a formal ritual where there are three rounds of drinking sake, each round consisting of three cups of sake.  So, each participant would drink nine cups of sake, though each cup only had a mouthful of liquid. The cups were not the traditional ochoko, but instead were sakazuki, which resemble small, shallow dishes and are most often used for ceremonial purposes.  The participants would also drink from the same sakazuki, sharing, and thus solidfying their bond.

The sake would be accompanied by sakana, snacks, but strangely enough, you were not supposed to eat them! The food generally was not ready to eat anyways, and was valued only for its symbolic value.  Some typical sakana foods included konbu seaweed, abalone, dried chestnuts, and dried squid. The dried foods generally would need to be soaked in water for several hours before being palatable. The Japanese names of these foods often reflected their symbolic value.

For example, Konbu seaweed, which is often called kobu, is meant to reflect the word yorokobu, which means "happiness."  Abalone symbolizes a few different matters, including "long life."  Abalone is known as noshi awabi, and noshi means "victory." Dried chestnuts are known as kachiguri, and kachi also means "victory." Both of these terms reflect the fact that samurai, Japanese warriors, obviously sought victory in battle so symbolism in this regard was very important to them.  Dried squid is known as surume, which suggests the word suehirogari, meaning "enjoying increased prosperity."  Rather than eat these foods, the samurai would take them and hide them away in their clothes, keeping them like some magical amulet.

Can you imagine serving a tray of food where your guests cannot eat anything off it? The shikisankon ceremony is not the only time when the Japanese served food you could not eat. There were some formal banquets where many of the courses were presented only for their aesthetic or symbolic value.  I may discuss those events more in a future post. 

Etiquette books in the Edo period (1603-1868 A.D.) discussed the shikisankon ceremony, which led to it eventually spreading among the general populace. The ceremony would change in some respects, but the same basic idea remained, that the sharing of the sakazuki sealed friendships and other relationships.  In some weddings, there is the ritual of san-san kudo, where the bride and groom share a sakazuki of sake three times. Enemies could reconcile by sharing a sakazuki of sake, or maintain their enmity by refusing to share a cup with their enemy.  Oaths of loyalty could be sealed by sharing a sakazuki, and the Japanese Yakuza do so. Sometimes with these oaths of loyalty, the participants would prick their fingers, adding a couple drops of blood to the sake.  

Sake has such a fascinating history.

Bagrationi 1882: Two Georgian Sparkling Wines

I have already been impressed by some white and red wines from the country of Georgia. The unusual indigenous grapes added an exotic character to the wines. But how are the sparkling wines from this intriguing region?  Did you even know they produced sparkling wine? I recently received samples of two sparkling wines from the Bagrationi 1882 Winery, and was able to acquire at least some idea of the quality of Georgian sparkling wines.

The winery extends back to the era of Georgian Prince Ivane Bagrationi-Mukhraneli, around 1882, who began producing sparkling wine using the classic bottle fermentation method. Currently, they produce sparkling wines in both the Methodé Champenoise and Method Charmat methods.  They are the primary producer in Georgia, occupying 80% of the domestic market, and now export four of their wines into the U.S., including the Classic Brut, Classic Extra Dry, Reserve Brut and Royal Cuvée Brut.  They are also the only sparkling wines made in Georgia which are available in the U.S.

The Bagrationi 1882 vineyards are located in the Kartli, Imereti and Kakheti regions of Georgia. The grapes they use include three indigenous grapes: rare Chinebuli from the Kartli region, and Mtsvane & Tsitska from the Imereti and Kakheti regions. Chinebuli, also known as Chinuri, and Tsitska, are used primarily for sparkling wines while Mtsvane is often used for still wines. I was very curious as to what kind of sparkling wine these unusual grapes would produce.

The Vintage 2007 Bagrationi 1882 Reserve Brut ($19.99) is produced from Chinebuli, Mtsvane, and Tsitska, though I am unsure of the actual percentages.  The wine is produced in the Method Champenoise and has an alcohol content of 13%. I brought this bottle to a wine tasting over at my friend Adam's house, and it was very popular.  The most common comment, of which I fully agreed, was that this wine had a strong minerality, almost a steely nature. The fruit flavors, some peach and melon, were subdued but noticeable.  There was good acidity, and it was clean and refreshing. At this price point, I think it is a very good value and presents a sparkling wine with character. It had its own uniquenness and is well worth seeking out.

The Bagrationi 1882 Classic Brut ($9.99) is also produced from Chinebuli, Mtsvane, and Tsitska, though I am again unsure of the actual percentages. This sparkling wine though is produced in the Charmat method and has an alcohol content of 12%. I enjoyed this wine, though not as much as the Reserve, and it did have a different flavor profile.  There were more bubbles, less minerality, and more fruit flavors.  The minerality was still noticeable though more muted, and the fruit tastes included some peach, melon, and lemon. It tasted less exotic than the Reserve, but at this price point it is a good choice for a sparkling wine.   

Both of these wines are available in Massachusetts, and the distributor is Select Wines. I would strongly recommend you buy the Reserve Brut.

2009: A Bounty From Burgundy

2009 is supposed to be an excellent vintage in the Burgundy region, offering wines which are ready to drink now, yet which also will age well.  These are supposed to be more approachable wines, offering plenty of pleasure now but with the promise of much potential.  I have previously tasted a number of 2009 Beaujolais (which are produced in Burgundy), and was very impressed with them, finding the wines to be some of the best Beaujolais I have tasted in a long time.

Thus, I was very interested in attending the recent 2009 Burgundy tasting hosted by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd., a wine import company, to ascertain how the other wines from this region fared.  In short, the Burgundy region grows Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay but with its diverse terroirs, these grapes can take on many different flavor profiles.  There were 8 producers at the tasting, offering Beaujolais, Chablis, Meursalt, Pouilly-Fuisse, Red Burgundies, and more.  

My favorite producer of the event was Domaine Armand Rousseau, which was founded in the early 20th century by Armand Rousseau.  The winery owns about 35 acres of vineyards, nearly all of it located with Gevrey and more than half of it is grand cru. You'll find many old vines, low yields, strict selection and green harvesting here. This is a winery aiming to produce very high quality wines, and they definitely have succeeded in that regard.

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Village had a compelling nose with subtle red fruit and spice notes. It was elegant, fairly complex and very approachable.  An excellent entry-level red Burgundy, this should have wide appeal.  The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques was another compelling wine, yet it presented an earthier profile, both on the nose and palate, with rich red fruit and some minerality.  It was silky smooth, complex and with a lengthy finish. I really enjoy this style of Red Burgundy and would strongly recommend it.  The 2009 Charmes-Chambertin Gran Cru was more similar to the style of Village but of higher quality. It was elegant, with a more subtle and complex palate, as well as some floral notes. It was almost ethereal in nature, with a long and satisfying finish. The 2009 Chambertin Grand Cru was clearly the king of the tasting, a sublime and decandent wine that possessed a powerful elegance, with some intense red fruit and spice. A wine to slowly savor over dinner, carefully relishing each sip.   

All of these wines were very approachable now, but showed the potential to age for years too.  An impressive producer with top notch wines from an excellent vintage.  These wines will not disappoint Burgundy lovers.  I should note that these wines are not yet available for sale, and that the 2008 vintage will be released in the late Spring of 2011. 

Potel-Aviron is trying to produce some fine Cru Beaujolais, relying on sustainable viticulture, old vines and classic Burgundian techniques. Their wines which are labeled “Vieilles Vignes,” are old vines which are at least 40 years-old.

The basic 2009 Beaujolais-Villages had lots of bright red fruit and was a smooth, easy drinking wine.  Simple but delicious, and with more character than many wines at this price point. The 2009 Fleurie “Vieilles Vignes” was more elegant, having some juicy red fruit flavors as well as more floral notes, some vibrant violets.  The winner of their wines though was the 2009 Morgon Cote du Py “Vieilles Vignes,” that had a muted nose, yet a very expressive palate. Concentrated, intense black cherry and raspberry flavors, with some earthiness and spice notes. Complex, well-balanced and a lengthy, pleasing finish. A highly recommended wine, and was favored by several of my friends as well.

Domaine Faiveley, which has been around since 1825, owns about 120 hectares of vineyards, which includes 10 hectares of grand cru and 25 hectares of premier crus.  The vineyards are located in various regions within Burgundy, and the winery continues to purchase additional, premium vineyards.

Probably my favorite white Burgundy of the event, was their 2009 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet, a complex wine with an intriguing blend of citrus flavors and minerality.  Excellent acidity, a lengthy finish and a bright freshness yet showing the potential for aging. Would love to try this with seafood or a light chicken dish. 

As for reds, I tasted a number of wines that I enjoyed from this winery.  The 2009 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets had plenty of earthiness and spice notes, all working together well with some black fruit flavors. More rustic than elegant, I would love to pair it with some lamb, venison or other game meat. Their 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers was more elegant in style, with lush red fruits and mild spiciness. Plenty of complexity, silky smooth and it lingered long on the palate.  The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Combe aux Moines was very similar in style, and equally as good as the Les Cazetiers.  My favorite of their reds though was the 2009 Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley, also a wine of elegance, silky smooth, with more subtle and complex flavors.  A quietly seductive wine, it benefits from slow savoring, relishing each delighful taste.

My experiences with these 2009 wines have been very positive, and the wines are seeming to live up to the hype. If you enjoy Burgundy, then you should try the wines of this vintage and I am sure you will be impressed with what you find.