Westport Rivers: Local Wines Worthy Of Respect

Can vitis vinifera, the common wine grape, grow well in Massachusetts? Can it produce delicious Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines, or should local wineries purchase their grapes from outside of the state? Should Massachusetts concentrate more on growing hybrid grapes or making fruit wines?

The 30+ Massachusetts wineries present a varied picture and many of them do not grow their own grapes. Some make fruit wines while others purchase grapes from places like California and New York. Of those that do grow their own grapes, especially vitis vinifera, most seem to be located in southeastern Massachusetts, along the Coastal Wine Trail.

Consisting of about 80 acres, the largest vineyard in Massachusetts, and possibly all of New England, is owned by Westport Rivers Winery, which was founded in 1986. The owners believed the climate and soil at their site was an excellent location for a vineyard, and their wines give proof to their belief. They only produce wines made from grapes they grow on their vineyard, such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Rkatsiteli, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Gruner Veltliner, Muscat and Pinot Noir.

I lasted visited the winery over six years ago though had enjoyed their sparkling wines for a few years before that. About seven years ago, when I began blogging with a group of friends at the Real World Winers site (now defunct) and before I started The Passionate Foodie, the 2001 Westport Rivers Brut Cuvee RJR Sparkling Wine was one of our most highly recommended wines. Since that time, I have generally only seen their sparkling wines available at local wine stores. Their still wines were elusive but I now wish more shops would carry them, so that they were more readily available. I also need to make a trip down to the winery again, maybe this spring, to learn more about everything they are doing.

Westport Rivers recently sent me samples of two of their sparkling wines, the 2006 Brut Cuvee RJR and the 2001 Blanc de Blancs Brut. Then, this past weekend, the winery had a table at the Wayland Winter Farmers' Market and I had the opportunity to taste and be impressed by several of their still wines and one apertif/dessert wine. Their winemaker, Bill Russell, is producing plenty of wines of which he should be proud, showing the potential for Massachusetts wines produced from locally grown grapes.

The 2006 Westport Rivers Brut RJR ($34.99) is produced from a blend of about 70% Pinot Noir with the remainder Chardonnay and a touch of Pinot Meunier. It spent over four years in tirage, was disgorged about eight months before release and has a dosage of 0.8%. This is a compelling sparkling wine with a fine golden color and a pleasing nose of toast and citrus. On the palate, it is clean, dry and crisp with lovely green apple and toasted bread notes. It has a nice depth of character, a long satisfying finish, and will remind you of a nice Champagne. It is not inexpensive but I think it can compare well to Champagnes at a similar price point.

For New Year's Eve, I chose to open the 2001 Westport Rivers Blanc de Blancs Brut ($45), produced from 100% Chardonnay. It spent about ten years in tirage, was disgorged a little over eight months before release and has a dosage of 0.2%. This is a superb sparkling wine that is well balanced and possesses great complexity. It has prominent acidity, is very dry and has intriguing notes of green apple, toast, pears and hints of other elusive flavors that will tantalize your palate. I was extremely happy that I opened this bottle to bring in the New Year, starting off the year with a fantastic local wine. At this price point, I think it competes very well with similarly priced Champagnes. It gets my highest recommendation.

As for their still whites, I tasted three of them and enjoyed all three. The 2011 Westport Rivers Chardonnay ($18) is a blend of 80% oaked Chardonnay and 20% unoaked, made in a more French style. It is crisp and dry with bright apple and citrus flavors and only a touch of richness from the oak. An excellent food wine, it is also pleasing on its own. The 2011 Westport Rivers Riesling ($18) is also crisp and dry, with bolder citrus flavors and hints of tropical fruit. Easy drinking and food friendly, this is another delicious wine from their portfolio.

I was intrigued by the 2011 Westport Rivers Cinco Cães ($18), a unique white blend of Rkatsiteli, Pinot Gris, Gruner Veltliner, Muscat and Chardonnay. Cinco Cães, a Portuguese phrase that means "five dogs," is named for five dogs they owned, four Labrador retrievers and an Azorean cattle dog. Though an easy drinking wine, you might at first overlook its complexity. A fascinating blend of aromatics with tastes of green apple, pear, citrus, and herbal notes. It is crisp and delicious, with a lengthy finish and after having a glass, you are going to crave another and then another. Highly recommended.

How do red grapes fare in Massachusetts? Westport Rivers grows Pinot Noir but they have only produced a still wine from Pinot Noir twice, including the recent 2010 Westport Rivers Pinot Noir ($25). Most of their Pinot Noir ends up in their sparkling wines. About 600 cases were made of the 2010 Pinot. It was a light bodied wine, with tasty notes of cherry and ripe plum along with a mild earthiness. Mild tannins, an alcohol content of 13.2% and a pleasing finish. A Pinot that is sure to appeal to many wine lovers.  

Pinot Noir also figures into a fascinating apertif/after dinner wine, the Grace Pinot Noir ($25). The winery sends out some of their Pinot Noir to a distillery to make a brandy. When the brandy is returned, they add some Pinot Noir juice and age it for five years in French oak. Five different vintages are blended together and the end result has a powerful alcohol content of 17.5%. It is going to remind you of an aged Tawny Port in some respects with its intriguing flavors of caramel, dried figs, dark cherry and other savory notes. There is only a hint of sweetness in its rich and luxurious mouth feel. Unusual and compelling.

Massachusetts can be proud of Westport Rivers, making true local wines that will intrigue and satisfy wine lovers. Seek out their wines and you can look forward to more coverage from me of this compelling winery.

Boyden Valley Winery

Prior to attending the Boston Wine Expo, I knew that one of the booths I had to visit belonged to the Boyden Valley Winery, located in Vermont. Boyden was my Favorite Vermont Winery of 2009 and their Vermont Ice Red was on my list of 2009 Top Ten Wines Over $50.

I wanted another taste of their Vermont Ice Red, as well as to see what else they might be pouring. Besides enjoying once again the Ice Red, I also got to taste their Vermont Ice Cider and new Vermont Ice Apple Creme.

Their Vermont Ice Cider is made from only Vermont grown apples, including Northern Spy, Macintosh, and Empire. It actually takes over 400 gallons of cider to make one 60 gallon barrel of ice cider. The ice cider is fermented in stainless steel, aged in French oak for about six months and has an alcohol content of about 12%. The ice cider is sweet, though not cloyingly so, and has a prominent crisp, apple flavor. It is a very pleasant drink, just right for a New England winter day, and would also pair well with cheese as well as some fruit-based desserts, including apple pie.

The Vermont Ice Apple Creme was a surprising delight. It is made from Vermont Ice Cider, apple brandy and cream. It also has a higher alcohol content at 15%, though you would not notice that in the taste. It is lighter and more delicate than other cream liqueurs, reminding me a bit of a thinner version of egg nog, but with apple flavors. The creaminess combined well with the apple flavors, and the sweetness was once again under control, and did not overwhelm. Though it can be enjoyed on its own, I think it might also make for an interesting sauce, maybe drizzled over ice cream or an apple pie.

Once again, Boyden Valley Winery has impressed me. I really like the fact they grow their own grapes, and use local Vermont apples. You should give their wines a try, or even visit their winery. I may try to visit there in the spring.

Central Bottle & How2Heroes: Valentine's Tasting

Central Bottle and how2heroes and will present a special tasting of Valentine’s Day Dessert & Wine Pairings on Tuesday, February 9, from 6pm-9pm. This should be a fun and delicious event.

Join how2heroes and Central Bottle as they share their love with dessert and wine pairings in celebration of Valentine's Day. Enjoy desserts created by how2heroes and taste perfectly paired wines courtesy of Central Bottle. Also, try savory Venetian bites created by Central Bottle's Stacey Daley.

The Dessert & Wine Pairings include:

- Mini Chocolate-Raspberry Cupcakes paired with Noval Fine Ruby Port, Portugal
- Chocolate-Dipped Strawberries paired with Niades Brachetto d'acqui, Piedmont, Italy (see the photo at the top!)
- Mini Cheesecakes paired with 2005 Chateau Roumieu-Lacoste Sauternes, France
- Sugar, Spice & Everything Nice Palmiers paired with El Maestro Sierra Pedro Ximenez, Spain

The cost is only $10, and includes all the desserts and wine tastings, and you can pay at the door. The Venetian bites, cicchetti, are all a la carte.

Central Bottle
196 Mass Ave.

Cambridge, MA

WBW #64: The Other Holidays

Today is a new Wine Blogging Wednesday, #64 and the theme is The Other Holidays. Jeff Stai, owner of Twisted Oak Winery, blogger at El Bloggo Torcido and rubber chicken lover is this month's host and he chosen a holiday theme, though with his trademark twist.

Jeff stated: "Pick any winter holiday or observance EXCEPT Hanukkah, Christmas Day, Kwanzaa, or New Years Day or Eve, and choose a wine to celebrate it! For purposes of this WBW, the holiday date chosen must be between December 7, 2009 and January 7, 2010." It might take a little research to find one of these other holidays or observances, but I think it was a fun theme, with plenty of options.

As I was pondering which holiday to choose, I was also reviewing all of my blog posts for the past year. I have been working on compiling my 2009 Favorite Lists. One of my posts from last January caught my eye, about an intriguing observance that is very appropriate for this WBW theme.

January 5 is National Whipped Cream Day! Though I was unable to confirm the exact origin of this observance, it seems likely related to Aaron Lapin, the creator of whipped cream in a can. January 5 is Lapin's birthday. He was originally a clothes salesman but got into the food industry in the 1940s. He started selling Sta-Whip, a wartime substitute for whipping cream, and eventually put whipped cream into a new type of aerosol canister and called his product, Reddi-wip. Reddi-wip was first sold through local milkmen but it went national in 1954 and is still available today.

Who doesn't love whipped cream? Though home-made whipped cream is the best, canned whipped cream is very convenient. With the holiday season, whipped cream is ubiquitous, on hot chocolate, pies, waffles and much more. Which wine should you pair with whipped cream? It depends on the food that accompanies the whipped cream though dessert wine is probably a good, general recommendation. So that is what I chose.

The 2007 Alois Kracher Beerenauslese Cuvee (about $35/375ml) is an Austrian dessert wine. Beerenauslese is an official term for a late harvest dessert wine, usually produced from botrytized grapes. This Cuvee is a blend of 70 % Welschriesling and 30 % Chardonnay. Welschriesling is a white grape and its name literally means "Romanic Riesling" though it is unrelated to the common Riesling. It grows throughout Central Europe, often known by other names including Riesling Italico, Laski Rizling and Grasevina. It is a versatile grape and can make fine still wines or rich dessert wines. This wine was 80% fermented and aged in stainless steel, the other 20% spent in big casks for about 16 months. It also has an alcohol content of 12%.

I dip my spoon into a bowl of diced fruit, a melange of apricots, pineapple, peaches, and lemons. There is a light glaze of honey atop the fruit, enough to add some sweetness without being cloying like the juice you find in canned fruit cocktails. There seems to be a crispness to the fruit, a nice balance to the sweetness of the dish. I take my time eating, as after each spoonful, the flavors linger in my mouth and I just sit and savor them. What a wonderful fruit cocktail, and a very pleasant finish to my evening.

That sums up my feelings for the 2007 Alois Kracher Beerenauslese Cuvee.

2009: Top Ten Wines Over $50

Welcome to my third, and last, Top Ten Wine List. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $15. It is now time for my Top Ten Wines Over $50.

Like the prior lists, it includes wines that during the past year I have both enjoyed very much and which I found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They stand out for some particular reason above the other wines I tasted this past year. Each wine on this list is linked to my more detailed prior review.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and all are definitely worth your consideration. These are not every day wines, but those worth a splurge, those for special celebrations. These are intriguing wines for wine lovers who want to amaze their palates. Please note that the actual price of the wine may vary in your area.

1. 2006 Margalit Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Israel ($90)
An exquisite and hedonistic wine which also shows that Israel can make wines comparable to high-end Bordeaux.

2. 2005 Albino Armani Casetta Vallagarina "Foja Tonda", Italy ($56)
Made from the rare Casetta grape, this reminded me of a fine Burgundian Pinot Noir.

3. 2005 Col Solare, Washington ($59.99)
An amazing Cabernet which is more French than California in style. Silk smooth with lots of complexity.

4. 1964 Gonzalez Byass Vintage Oloroso Sherry, Spain ($95)
A rare vintage sherry, it was mellow and smooth with an intriguing blend of delicious flavors with a finish I never wanted to end.

5. 2005 Vodopivec Vitovska Classica, Italy ($64.99)
Made from a grape new to me, Vitovska, and made in an amphora, this white wine is fascinating and a wine geek's dream.

6. Boyden Valley Vermont Ice Red, Vermont ($65)
Made from Frontenac, a hybrid grape, this is an exceptional ice wine, one of the best I have tasted in a long time.

7. 1985 Antonio Cerri Boca DOC, Italy ($58)
A rare Nebbiolo wine from a tiny region of Italy, which still has plenty of life and is reminescent of a fine Burgundy.

8. 2003 Massa Vecchia Querciola, Italy ($67)
An organic Tuscan wine, a Sangiovese blend, with a sublime taste, which evolves over time.

9. Gaston Chiquet Brut Tradition, France ($53.99)
A Grower's Champagne that is predominantly Pinot Meunier, giving it a more exotic taste.

10. 2003 Sean Thackrey Andromeda, California ($80)
From one of my favorite wine makers, this is not your typical Pinot Noir, a reflection of the eccentric genius of the wine maker.

Once again, Italy dominates with four wines on this list. I don't think there is any particular reason for this except that Italy is producing many fascinating, quality wines. There are three U.S. wines yet only one is from California, and it is not your typical California wine. The other two include a local wine, from Vermont, and one from Washington.

Like my Over $15 List, this list is diverse, with Sparkling Wine, White, Red, Sherry and Dessert Wines. There are intriguing wines being produced in all varieties and styles.

If you have some of your own recommendations, please add them to the comments.

The Melting Pot: Fondue & Wine 101

Ever wanted to replicate the delicious fondues of The Melting Pot at home? If so, they are offering a class to help teach you the art of making fondue. Join the Melting Pot's Tampa-based Executive Chef Shane Schaibly for a fondue class paired with 3 delicious wines. Not only do you get to make the food, you get to eat it as well. A wine expert from Gordon's Fine Wines and Liquors will also be on hand to provide education on the wines served and Still River Winery will be available to discuss their Apfel Eis, an excellent apple ice wine.

Proposed Syllabus

Introduction: Chef Shane will guide you through the history of fondue.

1st Course: Learn how to make their new Alp and Dell Cheese Fondue.
First, taste the 3 cheeses they use in this fondue before they are melted. Then, follow Chef Shane as he takes you through the steps needed to create this delicious combination of white wine, garlic, whole grain mustard and nutmeg, with a smooth blend of award-winning Gruyère, Raclette and Fontina cheeses.
--Wine Pairing: Jekel Riesling

2nd Course: Fondue-Style Entrees and Sauces.
Learn how to make their Gorgonzola Port sauce accompanied with Filet Florentine
--Wine Pairing: El Portillo Malbec

3rd Course: Learn how to make their White Chocolate Apple Cobbler Fondue.
Learn how to artfully swirl white chocolate with seasoned apples, streusel topping and spices.
--Wine Pairing: Still River Winery Apfel Eis Apple Ice Wine

*Offers, coupons, promos and Restaurant.com certificates cannot not be used for this event. Tax and gratuity not included. Reservations recommended.

The Melting Pot
213 Burlington Rd. (Rt.62)
Bedford, MA
Phone: 781-791-0529

Apfel Eis vs Neige: Battle Royale

It was an epic contest, my own Wine Battle Royale. A head-to-head competition between Apfel Eis, of Massachusetts, and Neige, of Canada, both apple ice wines. Which would prevail? Would the local wine defeat its foreign competitor? When the tasting was over, who would emerge the victor?

I first encountered Apfel Eis at the Boston Wine Expo, where I also tasted some Neige, though I did not taste them together. At the time, it seemed that the two apple ice wines presented somewhat different styles and flavors. Yet I wondered how the two dessert wines would compare if tasted together and tasted blind. I was not sure the Expo really gave me an accurate comparison of the two wines. So I arranged my own private taste test.

The set-up: Two identical shot glasses, marked on the bottom. I filled each glass with the two different apple ice wines and then had someone else mix them up so I would not know which was which. And then I did the same for my drinking companion.

Both wines looked the same so I could not differentiate them by their color. I then tasted both wines, trying to detect their differences. To my surprise, they were nearly identical in taste except that one may have been slightly tarter than the other. My drinking companion came to the same conclusion, except felt that the other wine was slightly tarter. We both agreed though that the wines tasted essentially the same. I have tasted the two together a couple more times since then, comparing and contrasting them again, and with the same results.

So does that mean the Battle Royale was a tie? No, it does not because there are other factors, besides their similar taste, to consider. First, there is price. The Apfel Eis is $24.99 but the Neige ranges from $27-$30. As the Apfel is less expensive, it gains a bonus. Second, the Apfel is made locally in Massachusetts as opposed to Neige which is from Canada. If you are concerned about buying locally, or supporting local companies, then the Apfel gains another bonus.

So, weighing in those other factors, I consider the Winner to be the Apfel Eis.

As I have previously successfully paired the Neige with various apple desserts, then I have no question that the Apfel Eis would do equally as well with such desserts. I have also recently paired with Apfel Eis with various cheeses, crackers and agave nectar. It paired very well with the cheeses, especially the firmer ones like Manchego though it was delicious with Cheddar too. So instead of pairing a white or red wine with your cheese plate, why not consider the Apfel Eis instead?

Cascina Chicco Arcass: WBW #54

Some excellent wines come from the Piedmont region of Italy and I have previously reviewed numerous wines from this area. Most recently, I met the wine makers from the Cascina Roera winery in Piedmont. On my list of Top Ten Wines Under $15 of 2008, the 2004 Le Piane La Maggiorina from Piedmont made the list. And on my Top Ten Wines Over $15 of 2008, you can find the 2007 G.D. Vajra Moscato D'Asti from Piedmont.

As the theme for Wine Blogging Wednesday #54 was A Passion for Piedmont, I had to decide what Piedmont wine to review. David of McDuff's Food & Wine Trail had chosen an easy, but delicious, theme but I wanted to review something more unusual. How about a late harvest Arneis?

The NV Cascina Chicco Arcass is a very interesting and unique dessert wine. Cascina Chicco winery is located in the heart of the DOCG of Roero. The winery has about 20 hectares of vineyards, all of which are on hills. The Arcass is made from 100% Arneis.

Arneis, also known as Bianchetta or Nebbiolo Bianco, is indigenous to the Roera region of Piedmont and records of the grape extend back to the 15th century. The word "Arneis" translate as "a difficult or demanding person" in Piemontese, probably referring to the fact that it can be a difficult grape to grow. Traditionally, Arneis was sometimes blended with Nebbiolo to add perfume and soften its tannins.

Arneis was largely ignored for many years, and even might have vanished except it saw a revival in popularity in the early 1970s. Part of the reason for the revival was that there was an increasing popularity in white wines in the 1980s. Production of Arneis in Roero has been steadily increasing. Arneis is also now grown in Sardinia, Oregon, California, and Australia.

Arneis has medium-small berries which are golden-green in color and elliptical in shape. It can be similar to Viognier in weight and Pinot Blanc in flavors and aromas. The flavor and aroma of Arneis may have pears, peaches, almond, vanilla and floral notes. It may sometimes have low acidity so is usually best within a year of its vintage.

The Arcass is a late harvest wine done in the passito-style where the grapes are dried for several months before pressing. The wine comes in half-bottles, 375ml bottle, and costs in the mid to high $40s. It has an alcohol content of 12.5%. The name of the wine, "Arcass," is "a reference to one of the most elegant and powerful athletic gestures displayed in the game of "Balon", the most traditional sport of the Roero hills. The "Arcass" expresses the untamed farming pride, which is able to overcome any kind of difficulty."

I found the Arcass to have a fine amber color with a compelling nose of apricots, citrus, honey and dried fruit. It is a full bodied wine with intense and complex flavors, being sweet without being cloying. It was a wow wine, very unique in its flavor profile and with a lengthy, satisfying finish. If this is the type of desert wine that Arneis can produce, then more producers should be making it. This dessert wine would pair with many different types of desserts, especially if there is fruit involved. I highly recommend this wine.

Stoneham Sun: Apfel Eis, Apple Ice Wine

My new column of "A Passionate Foodie" can be found in the February 11 issue issue of the Stoneham Sun newspaper. This is a weekly column that concentrates on reviews of local restaurants though it also sometimes touches on other food and wine topics.

The new column has been published today and will soon be available online. The new column discusses a new locally produced wine, Apfel Eis, that is made by the Still River Winery in Harvard, Massachusetts. Apfel Eis is a delicious apple ice wine which I highly recommend.

If you have any questions or comments about my column, feel free to add them here.

Drink with passion.

Apfel Eis: More Info & Upcoming Events

I recently reviewed Apfel Eis, a new apple ice wine made by the Still River Winery in Harvard, Massachusets. I now have more information about it to share with you.

The Holtzman family has been involved in brewing beer as a hobby for years and still grow their own hops. They are also wine lovers but did not feel that grapes grew well enough in Massachusetts and they did not want to purchase grapes from California or any other state. But, while visiting Quebec, they received inspiration after tasting their version of apple ice wine, "ice cider."

They realized that apples grew extremely well in Massachusetts and that Harvard is the number one grower of apples in the state. Thus, they felt they could produce an apple ice wine that would be at least as good as what they found in Quebec. So, they spent much time experimenting, including with different apple blends and yeasts. They purchase their apples from a couple local orchards in Harvard, and only produce about 400 cases per year.

They are currently focused exclusively on Apfel Eis and making sure that they maintain a high level of quality while expanding their production. In the future, they might consider expanding their product line but they have no immediate plans to do so.

If you would like to visit their winery, just call ahead to arrange it. Unfortunately, as Harvard is a dry town they cannot offer a tasting room or sell directly to customers out of their winery.

If you would like to try some Apfel Eis, you will have several opportunities at some upcoming events.

1) Still River Winery will participate in a charity wine tasting/auction at The Bull Run restaurant in Shirley, MA on Saturday, February 7. Tasting doors open at 6:30 PM and the auction begins at 8:00 PM. Tickets are $25 and include a $10 credit towards first wine lot purchase. Proceeds to benefit National MS Society/Blister Buddies and charities of the Rotary Club of Ayer-Harvard-Shirley-Devens.

2) Also on Saturday, February 7, Brookline Liquor Mart (Brookline, MA) will hold a special tasting of Wines for Valentines, from 1pm-5pm, including the Apfel Eis.

3) On Sunday, February 8, Marty's Fine Wines (Newton, MA) will have a tasting of Apfel Eis from 2pm-4pm.

4) Still River Winery will also be serving up Apfel Eis at the eighth annual Taste of Nashoba Valley, sponsored by the Nashoba Valley Chamber of Commerce on Tuesday, March 24, from 5:30pm-8pm at the Lawrence Academy Stone Athletic Center in Groton, MA.

Still River Winery
104 Bolton Road
Harvard, MA
Phone: 978-456-6850

Apfel Eis: Local Apple Ice Wine

While wandering the aisles at the Boston Wine Expo, I came upon a table with Neige Apple Ice Wine. I have been a fan of Neige for a few years and convinced my friend Dale to try it. He enjoyed it and we then continued our wandering. Soon after, I came upon another table offering apple ice wine from a new winery in Massachusetts. I had never heard of this winery before and was very intrigued so I had to stop to check it out.

The Still River Winery is located in Harvard, not far from Route 2, in the midst of an area well known for apple orchards and where I have often gone apple picking in the fall. It is a small, family run winery and they only produce Apfel Eis, an apple ice wine. I am sure their production is low. At the Expo, I got to meet the wine maker, Wade Holtzman, his wife Margot and son Leif. They were very personable and evidenced passion for their wine.

Apfel Eis is fermented in five-gallon batches and over 80 apples, of various types such as MacIntosh and Red Delicious, go into each bottle. It is pressed without preservatives, slowly fermented at very cold temperatures, and no sugar is added. It is sold in 375ml bottles for $24.99 each and you can check their website for the list of stores and restaurants that currently sell it. I have not seen it in any stores yet but will now be looking for it. In addition, you can order it online from their website, thus making it readily available to anyone in Massachusetts.

It has a rich, golden color and a powerful nose of fresh apples, like a delicious cider. It is a full bodied wine with a nice crispness, mild sweetness and plenty of apple flavors. It avoids being cloyingly sweet and has a richness and complexity that place it above a simple cider. I think it also has a nice balance to it. It presents a different style and flavor than the Neige, though both are apple ice wines. Maybe this is due to the differing terroir, or the varying types of apples that are used.

I very much enjoyed the Apfel Eis and think it would pair very well with an apple dessert or a cheese plate. At about $25, I consider it reasonably priced for dessert wine and would definitely recommend you check it out. It would also make a nice treat for Valentine's Day. Plus, I think it is good to support a local winery, especially as they make a high quality product. The Holtzmans have a bright future ahead of them if they keep making such a delicious product.

Just a final note: I will writing a follow up post about the Apfel Eis as I will be receiving some additional information about it, as well as tasting more of it, including pairing it with some different foods. Maybe I will even do a blind tasting, pitting Neige against the Apfel to see which one people prefer.

Still River Winery

104 Bolton Road

Harvard, MA

Phone: 978-456-6850

Finale's Dessert Party

Most of us go out to dinner with our friends and family. But how many of us go out for just dessert? I don't mean grabbing a ice cream cone together, but actually going to a desserterie and having a sit-down dessert, some delicious and sweet concoction. Skip dinner and go straight for the good stuff.

Last May, during the WGBH auction, I won a $500 gift certificate for a dessert party for ten people at Finale. Finale is a Desserterie and they have four locations in the local area, including Boston, Cambridge, Brookline and Natick. I have been to Finale several times before, and generally have enjoyed my experiences.

Last weekend, I finally made reservations for my dessert party, inviting family and friends to join me, to share in the decadent sweets and chilled dessert wines. We went to their Harvard Square location and we were placed in a small side room, with only a few other tables, so we were largely private. What the gift certificate got us was basically two desserts for everyone with dessert wine pairings, plus some extra drinks. On average, it cost $10 for each dessert and $10 for each glass of wine. I consider these reasonable prices, especially considering the size of the desserts.

I started with the Manjari Mousse ($11.95), a bittersweet chocolate mousse layered with chocolate buttermilk cake and French apricot puree, served with a napolean of blackberry-cabernet sorbet and strudel discs. This was quite a large dessert, presented in a very fancy way. All of the desserts were presented quite well. And the mousse was excellent, with a diverse melange of delicious flavors and lots of chocolate. I especially enjoyed the sorbet and could have eaten a large dish of just that.

The mousse was paired with the 2006 Rosa Regale Brachetto d'Acqui ($9.95) from Piedmont, Italy. This was a sparkling wine with nice fruit flavors, especially strawberry. I have had this before and enjoyed it, as did most everyone else. It was probably the favorite dessert wine of the evening.

I then moved on to the Creme Brulee ($9.95), vanilla cream caramelized a la minute and garnished with half moons of orange-butter cookies and a medley of fresh fruit. A large bowl of creamy brulee with a lightly crunchy crust and plenty of fresh berries and fruit slices. One of the better brulees I have had in a while. This was paired with a Madeira, a smooth wine with nice caramel and nut notes.

Others tried the Molten Chocolate, Finale Cheesecake and Passion Fruit Meringue. No one had anything negative to say about the desserts and everyone was fairly full by the time it was over. Not all of the dessert wines were as popular, some not so keen on the ports. A few of us have some extra dessert wines flight at the end of the evening, samples of three related wines.

Though the desserts were delicious, what made it a better experience were the people I was with. We talked and laughed, compared and shared. Some of the people did not know each other but that was not an obstacle. Everything went very well, and I felt like this was the start of the holiday season, the time of that special warmth of family and friends. I look forward to more such times this season and hope that all my readers have similar experiences during the holidays.

2003 Dolc De L'Obac

Last evening, I attended a work holiday party and brought a few special wines. Our host put on an incredible spread, including some delicious desserts. Creme Brulee, Fruit Trifle and Pavlova Cake. Everything was home-made and very appealing.

To accompany dessert, I brought a bottle of 2003 Dolc De L'Obac (500ml $90). This is a wine I had shipped to me from the winery in Spain. You can read out my visit to the Costers del Siurana winery in a prior post. They make some incredible wines and this dessert wine is one of their exceptional ones.

The 2003 Dolc De L'Obac is a blend of 80% Garnacha, 10% Syrah, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is aged for about a year in French oak and has a 16% alcohol content. The wine has a very dark, almost inky color, and a nose of sweet, dark berries. On the palate, the wine has an intriguing and mild sweetness that avoids being cloying. It has a taste of ripe blueberries, blackberries and plum. It is a lush, rich wine with a long, lingering finish. It has a nice complexity that will cause you to pause and ponder over its flavors.

This wine was a great success and everyone who tasted it thoroughly enjoyed it. I loved its subtle sweetness and lushness. This was a superb wine and certainly worth its high price for a special occasion. Even those who do not generally like dessert wines are likely to enjoy this.

And it paired perfectly with the yummy desserts.