New Sampan Article: A Chinese Restaurant in Mayberry

"The most interesting feature of Chinese life to me was that on board their boats, or sampans, as they are called....Upon these boats live whole families of three and even four generations."

--The Fall River Daily Herald, November 20, 1888

For over a year, I've been contributing to Sampan, the only bilingual Chinese-English newspaper in New England. It is published in print as well as online, available in both Chinese and English. I've previously written thirty articles for Sampan, and you can find links here. 

My newest article, A Chinese Restaurant In Maberry, is now available in the new issue of Sampan. The Andy Griffith Show, which aired from 1960-1968, is a beloved and iconic comedy series. The core of the story centered on Sheriff Andy Taylor, a widower, raising his son, Opie, assisted by his Aunt Bee, all in the small town of Mayberry, North Carolina. The series receives some criticism as there was almost no diversity in the show. Thus, I was surprised to learn that one of the episodes centered on a Chinese restaurant in Mayberry. Fortunately, the episode presented a very positive image, which would have reached many households all across the country, helping to break erroneous preconceptions and prejudices against the Chinese. Learn much more in my latest Sampan article.

What is a "sampan?" The newspaper's site states, "A sampan is a popular river boat in traditional China. This small but useful vessel, by transporting cargo from large boats to the village ports, creates a channel of communication among villages." And like that type of boat, Sampan delivers news and information all across New England, and "acts a bridge between Asian American community organizations and individuals in the Greater Boston area."

Sampan, which was founded in 1972, is published by the nonprofit Asian American Civic Association, "The newspaper covers topics that are usually overlooked by the mainstream press, such as key immigration legislation, civil rights, housing, education, day-care services and union activities. These issues are crucial to the well-being of Asian immigrants, refugees, low-income families as well as individuals who are not proficient in the English language."

There is plenty of interest in Sampan which will appeal to all types of readers, from restaurant reviews to historical articles, from vital news stories to travel items. In these current days when racism and prejudice against Asians and their restaurants is high, it's more important than ever that accurate information about the Asian community is disseminated and promoted. We need to combat the irrational prejudices that some possess, and support our Asian communities just as we would support any other element of our overall community. We are all important aspects of a whole, and we need to stand together.

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A Chinese Restaurant in Mayberry?

The core of the story centered on Sheriff Andy Taylor, a widower, raising his son, Opie, assisted by his Aunt Bee, all in the small town of Mayberry, North Carolina. 

The Andy Griffith Show, which aired from 1960-1968, with 249 episodes, is a beloved and iconic comedy series. It always did very well in the ratings and is commonly listed as one of the best TV series ever. It was considered a wholesome show, generally upholding strict moral values. As a child, I watched the series and I’m sure many of my contemporaries did the same. 

However, nowadays, the series receives some criticism as there was almost no diversity in the show. For example, there was only a single black actor, Rockne Tarkington, who had a speaking part on the show and he only appeared in a single episode, as Opie's football coach. A few other black actors and actresses appeared as non-speaking extras, although none of them were listed in the credits.

Thus, I was recently surprised to learn that one of the episodes centered on a Chinese restaurant in Mayberry! I didn’t remember that episode from my childhood, and wouldn’t have imagined such an episode existed. Fortunately, the episode, from 1967, presented a very positive image, which would have reached many households all across the country, helping to break erroneous preconceptions and prejudices against the Chinese. Such positive depictions are absolutely necessary, so let's take a deeper look at this fascinating episode.

The episode, “Aunt Bee’s Restaurant” (Season 7, Episode 21) aired on February 6, 1967. At that time, in the fictional town of Mayberry, there were a few restaurants, primarily diners, including the Mayberry Diner, Bluebird Diner, and Snappy Lunch. There was a more upscale spot, Morelli’s, which was located just outside of Mayberry. All of these restaurants provided basic American fare, and most were relatively inexpensive. 

As the episode began, Andy and his friend, Gomer Pyle, were discussing what they would eat for lunch when Aunt Bee arrived. She mentioned that she might stop by the Spare Ribs Tavern and bring some home for dinner. However, Gomer mentioned that the restaurant had closed the day before, as they couldn’t succeed. 

Aunt Bee commented that Mayberry wasn’t really a spare rib town, which is very curious as North Carolina is well known for its barbecue, including its ribs. Aunt Bee then finished, by stating,  “The restaurant business can be so treacherous.” This was intended to mean the restaurant business was very difficult, and didn't refer to any betrayal or deception. 

Next, Aunt Bee stopped by the Spare Ribs Tavern, to speak to the owner Henry. The signs in the restaurant were interesting, providing insight into their menu. One signs mentioned, “Complete Lunch” including items like beef stew, meat balls, roast beef, roast pork, chicken fried steak, ham & lima beans, and hamburger steak (all priced $1.25-$1.35). The lower part of another sign mentioned Cole Slaw and Homemade Soup. A prominent third sign promoted Barbecued Ribs, To Go, for 85 cents. A fourth sign mentioned hot dogs, pizza, French dips, and chile. Interestingly, the sign also mentioned beer for 25 cents, even though Mayberry was a dry town. 

The Spare Ribs Tavern probably served a menu similar to many of the other existing restaurants in Mayberry, except for possibly the barbecued ribs. So why wasn't it able to compete with the other local restaurants? The tavern had far more variety on their menu than just barbecued ribs.  

Henry wasn’t present so Aunt Bee spoke with Charlie Lee, the chef, and the old her that he planned to return to Pittsburgh to work at Wong Soo’s Canton Palace. Bee was disappointed, as she felt he was an excellent chef, and Charlie then told her that he felt a Chinese restaurant in Mayberry would have been a great idea, a relative gold mine. Charlie began learning how to cook Chinese cuisine when he was 17 years old, and stated he knew how to prepare items like chop suey, chow mein, and egg rolls. 

However, Charlie noted it would take money, about $400, to renovate the tavern and turn it into a Chinese restaurant. Charlie lacked the needed capital so he needed a partner to invest that money, but he didn't know no one who would do so. As Bee left the restaurant, she found a penny on the floor, and Charlie told her it was her lucky day. 

Later that day, Bee was at home with Andy, and she began to sing “Chinatown, My Chinatown,” a popular song written by William Jerome and Jean Schwartz back in 1906. She had already made up her mind to invest in the Chinese restaurant and was slowly trying to tell Andy about it. She asked him, “Everybody likes good wholesome food, don’t they?” This was a clear indication that she considered Chinese cuisine to be “good wholesome food.” She finally then told Andy, who was skeptical of her plans. 

Andy didn’t think she knew anything about running a restaurant, although she claimed it would be like serving a lot of company, although Andy replied that she didn’t serve sub gum to her guests. Andy’s friend, Howard Sprague, showed up at their home and Andy asked for his opinion on Bee’s plans, hoping he would be on Andy’s side. Howard though was a fan of Chinese cuisine, and especially fond of water chestnuts, and thought having a Chinese restaurant in Mayberry would be a good idea. 

Andy remained doubtful but Bee went forward with her investment. So, at least some of the people of Mayberry had some familiarity with Chinese cuisine. Had they visited a Chinese restaurant in another part of North Carolina? That information isn't provided in the episode. However, it's good to see that none of them had a negative image of Chinese cuisine. 

Charlie Lee’s nephew, Jack, arrived in Mayberry to be the waiter in the new Chinese restaurant. He was currently attending the University of North Carolina, studying for a Masters in Psychology. Charlie, Bee and Jack, helped decorated the restaurant, with large Chinese screens, lanterns, and other similar items. 

The Grand Opening of “Aunt Bee’s Canton Palace” was held and the restaurant was packed. One of the guests raved about the Moo Goo Gai Pan, a dish he’d never eaten before. Andy, his girlfriend Helen, Howard, and Gomer, ate together. Howard caught an error on the menu on the name of a chicken dish, Ling Chi Chi, which he ordered along with a bowl of something like a Chinese matzoh ball soup. Andy, Helen and Gomer ordered the $1.95 chow mein dinner, although Gomer was going to get the smaller $1.65 chow mein dinner until Andy mentioned that he was treating. Everyone thoroughly enjoyed their meal and couldn’t wait to return. Gomer wanted to try their fried rice. 

At the end of the night, when the restaurant was essentially closed, Bee sat down with Andy and friends, and a plate of fortune cookies was brought to the table. Bee was pleased that they had a revenue of $80 (about $633 in today's dollars) for the night, which might mean they had about 40-60 customers that evening. When Bee opened her fortune cookie and read her fortune, she seemed nervous and wouldn't tell anyone what it said, merely claiming it was silly. 

Later that night, she couldn't sleep and sat in the kitchen, looking at her fortune. Andy woke up and saw her in the kitchen. He picked up her fortune from the table and read it, which said, “Beware of new business ventures, they can prove costly.” Bee, who was superstitious, was greatly concerned about the fortune, stating, “The Chinese are very intelligent people." 

The next day, Bee tried to get Charlie to make some changes to his restaurant, from adding more seasoning to the chow mein to expanding the menu to include steaks, chops and spaghetti. Charlie wasn’t happy with such changes and, with Jack, went to speak to Andy. Charlies was worried that the changes would quickly put them out of business. Jack eventually tried to use his knowledge of psychology to convince Bee not to worry about her fortune cookie, but was unsuccessful. Rationally, Bee understood she shouldn't be superstitious, but she couldn't stop her feelings. 

In the end, Jack opted to buy out Bee, giving her back her $400 investment. The Chinese restaurant remained open, although it’s unknown if they changed its name, or at least removed “Aunt Bee’s” from the name. Jack had previously not wanted to buy out Bee's investment, but he got a fortune cookie which helped changed his mind. The restaurant wasn’t mentioned again in the series so its ultimate fate was unknown, although it seemed very popular and likely would have remained in existence. 

Charlie Lee was played by Keye Luke, a native of Guangzhou, China, born on June 18, 1904, but who was raised in Seattle, Washington. His lengthy acting career began in 1934, and some of his roles included “Number One Son” in the Charlie Chan films and Kato in the Green Hornet film serials. He would also play the blind Master Po in the Kung Fu series, as well as Mr. Wing in the Gremlin movies. He was the first Chinese-American contract player signed by RKO, Universal Pictures and MGM. He died of a stroke in 1991. In 2012, he was also the subject of Keye Luke, a short documentary and bio-pic, directed by Timothy Tau, about his early life and career. 

Jack was played by Lloyd Kino (Kinoshita), who was born on May 18, 1919; in Seattle, Washington. He too had a lengthy acting career, appearing in numerous television series during from McHale’s Navy to CSI: Crime Scene Investigation (as well as one episode of Kung Fu), as well a number of movies from Mortal Kombat to Godzilla, The Cable Guy to The Last Tycoon. He passed away in 2012. Interestingly, in the Andy Griffith episode, Jack was a college student but the actor was actually 47 years old at that time.

This 1967 Andy Griffith episode depicted Chinese restaurants in a very positive manner, and due to its immense popularity, likely was influential in persuading Americans to dine at such restaurants. With Chinese restaurants receiving so much negative publicity over the years, it's always good to see a more positive depiction. And it's cool to imagine the Canton Palace having a lengthy and successful history in Mayberry.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Diane Kochilas, award-winning cookbook author, television personality, consulting chef, teacher, and one of the world's foremost authorities on Greek cuisine, will launch her delectable cooking program this October - My Greek Table With Diane Kochilas.

Premiering October 4 on public television stations across the country (check local listings) with 13 episodes, the series takes viewers to the source, as Diane introduces the stunning vistas, fabulous food, easy, nutritious recipes, and the unmatched hospitality Greece is known for worldwide.

My Greek Table With Diane Kochilas is more than a travel-cooking show. The series is a thorough exploration of the original Greek-Mediterranean Diet, shot on location throughout Greece in places such as Crete, Santorini, Ikaria, Lesvos, Thessaly, Macedonia, the Peloponnese, and Athens, as well as in a beautiful kitchen in Athens.

Diane delves into the breadth and variety of Greek cuisine, with regional specialties, an array of delicious vegetable and bean dishes, healthy desserts, and, yes, those iconic classics, too, from Greek salad to souvlaki! There will also be an in-depth look at the key ingredients of the Greek-Mediterranean Diet: extra virgin Greek olive oil, real Greek feta and Greek yogurt, wild herbs and healing herbal teas, whole grain breads and rusks, greens and vegetables, fish, honey, wine and more. Everything Diane showcases in My Greek Table is accessible to her American audience.

"Greek cuisine is healthy, delicious and extremely varied. It goes way beyond baklava and gyros," says Kochilas, a New York native who now resides in Athens. "With My Greek Table, I want to reveal a country and a culinary point of view that feeds my soul and has shaped me into the person and chef that I am today."

2) On Thursday, August 10, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with selections from Michele Chiarlo’s extensive portfolio of Piedmont wines. A Piedmont staple, Michele Chiarlo and his family have been making wine in the region since 1956. With estates in the finest appellations of Piedmont, the Chiarlos produce fine Italian wine upholding the time-honored tenets of tradition, discipline, sustainability, passion and care. Cultivating over 110 hectares of vineyards across the Piedmont landscape, Michele now works alongside his two sons, Stefano and Alberto, to ensure that the rigorous quality expected of Chiarlo wines is properly maintained, as they expand their operations across the Italian countryside. With great respect for the terroirs and vines that make the tradition of Italian wine possible, the Chiarlos continue to make quality, artisanal wine firmly rooted in the traditions and history of the Piedmont region, distinguishing the family as one of Piedmont’s most honored winemakers.

Legal Sea Foods will team up with Michele Chiarlo’s North American brand ambassador, Adam Verona, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring signature cuisine paired with his selections from the Chiarlo family’s collection of Piedmont wines. The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Salmon* Tartare, Jalapeño Emulsion, Jicama Sticks
Octopus, Mediterranean Olives, Preserved Lemon, Grilled Crostini
Oysters* on the Half Shell, Caviar*, Sake Yuzu Vinaigrette, Lemon Drops
Michele Chiarlo “Le Marne” Gavi, 2015
FIRST COURSE
Pan-Seared Halibut Cheeks (crispy pancetta, potato gnocchi, roasted tomato sauce)
Michele Chiarlo “Le Orme” Barbera d’Asti, 2014
Michele Chiarlo “La Court” Barbera d’Asti Superiore, Nizza, 2013
SECOND COURSE
Braised Cornish Hen (wild mushroom ravioli, rainbow chard, truffle shavings)
Michele Chiarlo “Il Principe” Nebbiolo d’Alba, Langhe, 2014
Michele Chiarlo “Reyna” Barbaresco, 2014
MAIN COURSE
Bone-In Ribeye “Bistecca Fiorentina” (roasted yukon gold potatoes, heirloom tomato salad)
Michele Chiarlo “Tortoniano” Barolo, 2011
Michele Chiarlo “Cerequio” Barolo, 2013
DESSERT
Key Lime Pie (zabaglione sauce, whipped cream rosette)
Michele Chiarlo “Nivole” Moscato d’Asti, 2016

COST: $110 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397

3) TAMO Bistro + Bar at the Seaport Hotel is offering three striped bass specials that will satisfy your cravings in the best possible way: Striped Bass Kabobs ($14), Striped Bass with Spicy Gazpacho, new potatoes & bacon ($30) and Beet-Cured Striped Bass, with tomatoes & watermelon. These specials will be offering in addition to the regular menu every day from 11:30am – midnight through the end of August.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.. **********************************************************
1) Tonite, at 10pm, turn your television to Food Network to watch an epic grill battle. Chef/Owner Matt O’Neil of The Blue Ox in Lynn, is making his in a special grilling-themed episode of Beat Bobby Flay. Season Five, Episode Five, entitled "Stars and Stripes", will pit our local chef against Bobby Flay. This should be a fun way to start the July 4th holiday, and maybe you'll even pick up a few grilling tips.

I'm a big fan of what Chef O'Neil is doing at The Blue Ox, and he is also a two-time reigning Champion of Boston magazine’s ‘Battle of the Burger,’ with his Sin Burger. What will he prepare for this grilling episode? Will his food be good enough to defeat Bobby Flay? Catch the episode tonite and see what happens.

2) As part of Legal Sea Foods’ “Endless Summer” at the Charles Square location in Cambridge, their outdoor Terrace Bar will feature an “All American Hot Dog Bar” during the month of July.

Legal Sea Foods will dish out a single specialty hot dog or a three-dog sampler board. There are five loaded varieties to choose from, including:

· Sonora “Bacon Wrapped a la Plancha” - grilled onions, tomatoes, jalapeño relish
· Chicago Vienna Beef Dog “Dragged Through the Garden” - tomato wedge, piccalilli, pepperoncini, dill pickle, mustard
· New Jersey Thuman’s Dog "Ripper Style" - crispy fried "rutts style" relish, steamed bun
· NY Sabrett All Beef Hot Dog - sauerkraut, sweet onions in tomato, brown mustard
· Rhode Island Little Rhody Brand "Hot Weiner" - diced onions, meat sauce, yellow mustard, steamed bun

Cost: One Dog ($5); Three Dog Sampler Board ($15)

3) On July 21, at 7:15pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Jordan Vineyard & Winery. Established in 1972, the winery was inspired by the great wine estates of France and the timeless connection between food, wine and hospitality. Located in Sonoma's Alexander Valley, the home for their wine is an extraordinary chateau combining winemaking facilities, guest suites and dining areas under one roof. Founders Tom and Sally Jordan set a standard for a Bordeaux-style California Cabernet Sauvignon and wine country hospitality, a top standard that is still held at Jordan today.

Legal Sea Foods will team up with Jordan’s National Sales Director, Chris Avery, to host a four-plus-course dinner paired with selections from the Jordan vine. The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Maine Crabmeat Salad, Yuzu, Cucumber Cups
Pan-Seared Scallop Tartlet, Vanilla Infused Leeks
Charred Shrimp & Roasted Tomato Bruschetta
Jordan Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2013
FIRST COURSE
Pecan Wood Grilled Tuna Steak (Shiitake Creamed Orzo, Cavolo Nero, Local Blueberry Gastrique)
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 1995
SECOND COURSE
Herb Crusted Lamb Loin (Grilled Eggplant Caponata, Agrodolce)
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2006
THIRD COURSE
Bacon-Pepper Wrapped Beef Tournedos (Boursin Smashed Potato, Crispy Leeks, Bordelaise)
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2009
CHEESE COURSE
Aged Vermont Dandy, Grafton Three-Year Aged Cheddar
Chili Chocolate Truffle, Apricot Chutney, Brioche Toast Points
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2011

COST: $125 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397

4) Akinto, which debuted in March., is the current culinary residency at the South End speakeasy Wink & Nod. Executive Chef Patrick Enage has created a tasting menu to give guests the opportunity to try the many flavors of Akinto, inspired by Southeast Asian street food from Chef Enage’s native Philippines as well as India, Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam, China, Japan and Laos.

I've been to Akinto, though I'm behind in my review. I will say that the food rocks! It  is delicious, with a great depth of flavor, and we need more of this cuisine in the Boston area. Chef Engage earns my highest recommendation and he needs to have his own restaurant in the Boston area. Thus, I heartily recommend you check out this new tasting menu.

The five-course tasting menu will be available Monday – Thursday beginning at 5pm. The tasting menu, which features popular dishes and highlights from Akinto’s dinner menu will allow guests to try a variety of dishes, served family style, for only $65 / person.

The full tasting menu is as follows:

To Begin
Roti Paratha, Red Curry Dipping Sauce
Cucumber Salad, Bean Sprouts, Toasted Sesame
Marinated Shiitake Mushrooms
First
Spicy Pork “Drop Wontons”, Anise BBQ, Toasted Sesame-Rice Wine, Peanut Paste
Pork Hash “Sisig”, Quail Egg Yolk, Calamansi, Soy*
Head On Chili Shrimp, House Sambal, Patola*
Second
Kabayaki Glazed Swordfish Belly, Taiwan Lettuce, Salted Duck Egg Vinaigrette
Braised Oxtail, Black Bean-Water Spinach, Jasmine Rice
Roasted Duck Bao Bun, Hoisin-Ginger Sauce, Green Onion
Third
Vegetable-Pineapple Fried Rice, Fried Egg, Cilantro
Chicken Tom Kha Gai, Thai Coconut Broth, Lemongrass, Lime
Teapot Fish Stew, Lemongrass-Clam Broth
Kalbi, XO-Coconut Glaze, Calamansi, Cilantro, Flowering Chives, Peanuts
Fourth
Mango Sorbet, Lychee Boba, Chili Essence
Turon, Banana Fritter, Jack Fruit, Smoky Caramel

Reservations recommended so please call 617-482-0117

5) On Monday, July 13, at 6:30pm, guests will take a virtual culinary wine tour of the Italian countryside at Fiorella’s Restaurant’s summer wine dinner. Designed to both educate and entertain, Fiorella’s wine dinner features a five-course prix fixe meal, paired with Italian wines from Martignetti Companies.

Inspired by homemade and authentic Italian cuisine, Fiorella’s all-inclusive meal ($85 per person + tax and gratuity) offers seasonal dishes. Each course will be accompanied by a paired wine. In addition, Len Presutti, the corporate wine educator from Martignetti Companies will guide guests through the wines, expanding on the history, curiosities and nuances of each selection.

Summer Wine Dinner
--Chilled and marinated Spanish octopus served with seared Yukon gold potato, green olives, evoo and arugula
Wine: Batasiolo Gavi di Gavi Granee
--Roasted fig stuffed with gorgonzola with prosciutto and balsamic glaze
Wine: Roagna Dolcetto
--Corn, chanterelle mushroom, and mixed heirloom tomato risotto with rock shrimp sautéed with meyer lemon and chives
Wine: Ascheri Arneis
--Honey, orange, soy and ginger marinated duck breast served with sweet fingerling potatoes with golden raisins and pancetta served with a frisee salad
Wine: Sperino Lessona
--Native bing cherry and blueberry crisp with a dark chocolate sauce and mascarpone gelato
Wine: Brachetto

For Reservations, please call 617-969-9990

Japanese Sushi Contest: Seeking Judges

A Japanese cooking competition that pits two skilled chefs against each other in a challenging, and potentially perilous, endeavor. And two local food writers have the opportunity to be on the judging panel for this unique and exhilarating battle.

Last September, I had the honor to be one of five judges presiding over an epic Sushi battle that was filmed for ABC Asahi Broadcasting, a national Japanese TV network, for a prime time cooking competition. You can read my previous article for background and to learn more about my experience. I have the honor to have been approached again, this time by the Doukeshi Broadcasting Network, to judge another Japanese Sushi contest that will air on Japanese TV. And this time, I have been asked to select two other local food writers to join me on the judging panel.

Once again, a famed Japanese sushi chef will be pitted against a Boston-area judge. Due to confidentiality reasons, I cannot yet reveal the identity of the Boston-area chef except to state that the chef is well known for their skill in seafood preparation, and has been training for the last two months for this upcoming competition.

In partnership with Chicot Seafood, a Japanese based seafood exporter, this culinary competition will focus on a special ingredient, Fugu, Japanese pufferfish. The Japanese have been eating fugu for over 4000 years,and it remains a highly sought delicacy. For the contest, the chefs will prepare fugu in three ways: Sashimi, Nigiri Sushi, and a Maki Roll. The technique of cutting fugu into thin, translucent sashimi slices is known as usudzukuri. It is considered the best way to enjoy this fish.

Yes, you probably are aware that fugu can be poisonous. The organs of the fish contain tetradotoxin, a dangerous poison which paralyzes the body. However, if properly sliced and prepared, you can safely eat the flesh of the fugu. You might feel a slight tingling on your tongue, which is due to residual traces of poison, but it is not a deadly dose and won't even make you ill. In the past fifteen years, less than 30 people in Japan have died from fugu poisoning, and it is almost always because some fool local fisherman decided to make some fugu at home. So, the competition should be completely safe, although you will have to sign a Waiver of Liability just in the remotest of chances that something negative occurs.

This will be an exciting competition and I look forward to judging the results of this endeavor.

If you are a local food writer and wish to participate as a judge, please leave your name and email address in the comments and I will be in touch to discuss that matter. Two judges will be chosen, and you will receive extra consideration if you have experience in Japanese cuisine..

UPDATE: Yes, this was an April Fool's prank post and at least a few people did fall for it. I placed a few hints in the post as to is true nature. First, in the Labels, I placed "holiday" which referred to April Fool's Day. Second, the word "Doukeshi" is a Japanese term that means "clown" or "jester." Third, the word "Chicot" refers to a historical jester who worked for King Henry III. Hope you enjoyed this little joke.

Sushi Titans Battle! The Results

The results can now be announced!

Back in September, I had the honor to be one of five judges presiding over an epic Sushi battle, pitting local Chef Tim Cushman, of O Ya Restaurant, against Chef Hisayoshi Iwa, of Sushi Iwa in Japan. The event was held at the Clarke Studio in Milford and was filmed for ABC Asahi Broadcasting, a national Japanese TV network, for a prime time cooking competition. You can read my previous article for more background and to learn more about my experience.

At that time, because of reasons of confidentiality, I couldn't reveal the judges' decision and tell you who won the competition. However, the television show has now aired in Japan so I'm now free to reveal the winner.

Before I mention the name of the winner, you might want to watch the show yourself and see who wins. The televised competition is available in two YouTube videos. On the first video, coverage of the Sushi contest begins around the 33 minute mark. The second video continues coverage, ending around the 25 minute mark.The videos are in Japanese, though if you listen very carefully, you will be able to hear some English in the background. The videographers taped much more content than is what is presented in these two videos. Plenty of coverage ended up on the cutting room floor.

The five of us judges didn't discuss who we each thought had won the competition. Our decisions were made on our own. Of the five judges, I first revealed the name of who I thought won the competition. However, this is what I said previously about my decision. "These were two very different experiences. Simplicity vs complexity. Subtlety vs boldness. Purity vs Harmony. Both experiences were equally compelling, but for different reasons. Trying to compare them is a formidable task. In some respects, it may devolve down to a matter of personal preference. In other respects, it may come down to the tiniest of differences. I certainly faced an enormous dilemma in trying to determine a winner, and my own difficulties were mirrored by the other judges. A winner had to chosen though."

In the end, I voted for Chef Iwa, opting for his purity of flavors. It was a damn difficult decision and Chef Cushman did a fantastic job. The next two votes from the judges were given to Chef Cushman, giving him a 2 to 1 lead. Then, the fourth judge voted for Chef Iwa, tying it up. The final vote, which decided the winner of the event, was for....Chef Iwa! The Japanese panel on the television show were on the edge of their seats as the votes were cast, eventually bursting forth in loud cheer when they learned Chef Iwa had won.

As I also said previously, "What I can say is that both of these chefs are winners, having created excellent dishes which any Sushi lover would thoroughly enjoy. They each gave it their all, valiant competitors who showcased their skills and experience. Each chef should be absolutely proud of their efforts and hold their head up high." It truly was an epic battle, and both skilled contenders put forth a championship effort.

If you ever visit Japan, you can visit Chef Iwa's sushi restaurant, and locally you should make a visit to O Ya and see Chef Cushman. Sushi is a versatile  dish, which can range from simple to complex, and as long as it is delicious, that is all that really matters.

Sushi Titans Battle! O Ya vs Sushi Iwa

An epic battle of two Sushi titans. The U.S. versus Japan. Three arenas of engagement: Sashimi, Nigiri & Makimono. Five judges to determine the outcome. Who will prevail as the Champion of Sushi?

A couple weeks ago, I participated as a judge in a grand Sushi battle, pitting local Chef Tim Cushman, of O Ya Restaurant, against Chef Hisayoshi Iwa, of Sushi Iwa in Japan. The event was held at the Clarke Studio in Milford and was filmed for ABC Asahi Broadcasting, a national Japanese TV network, for their prime time cooking competition. You can check out one of their prior episodes here, though please know that it is all in Japanese. So, when this new episode airs, everything I said will be dubbed into Japanese.

Chef Tim Cushman is well known in the Boston area, having won a James Beard Foundation Award as the Best Chef Northeast 2012. O Ya has received many awards and kudos over the years, being recognized nationwide as one of the top restaurants in Boston. Chef Cushman has recently opened a spot in New York City called Roof at Park South and is planning to open their second Boston restaurant, an izakaya, Hojoko at the Verb Hotel.

Chef Hisayoshi Iwa, who was very soft spoken at the event, opened his own restaurant in 2012 in the Ginza, which has already garnered a Michelin star. He has a second restaurant in Hong Kong. His restaurant has received much positive press, and though he doesn't have as much experience as Chef Cushman, it seems his sushi skills are well honed. Based on the experience of both chefs, I knew this was going to be a well-fought competition.

The other four people joining me on the judging panel included: Alison Arnett (a food writer and restaurant consultant), Dr. Merry White (Professor of Anthropology at Boston University & the author of several books on Japan), Jolyon Helterman (a food writer at Boston magazine), and Robert Goree (Assistant Professor of Japanese at Wellesley College). An excellent team with plenty of knowledge and experience. I was honored to be a part of this group.

At the beginning of the day, we all had to sign a release as the event was being televised, but there apparently was a mix-up. The first release form they gave us had a strange paragraph, "8. I am not gangster." Maybe that was for a different show, Sleeping With The Fishes. We quickly got the correct release, which didn't have such language and we were set to go.

Filming for the show began several days before the competition. Some of the filming took place at O Ya Restaurant, where Chef Iwa got to sample Chef Cushman's cuisine, while other filming occurred while Chef Iwa shopped at the Boston pier for seafood. This was very different for Chef Iwa, having to rely upon the seafood available at the Boston pier, rather than the usual fish he could get at Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. In addition, film crews visited some of the judges, including myself, to get some footage of us at work. On the day of the actual competition, we were at the studio for about seven hours.

For this contest, each chef had to prepare three courses, including 3 Sashimi dishes, 6 different pieces of Nigiri, and 1 Lobster Maki roll (as they wanted to highlight a famed, local ingredient). And the chefs only had one hour to complete all of their dishes. The chefs had already done the shopping for their dishes, and knew what they wanted to prepare when they arrived at the studio kitchen. This wasn't really a timed competition as such, but more a comparison of techniques and styles.

We got to watch the two chefs prepare all of their dishes within an hour, and it was fascinating to see how each chef worked. Chef Iwa was so precise, a master of the knife, able to cut the thinnest slices of fish. Above, you can see a smaller amount of a much larger piece which at first I thought might be Wagyu beef due to all the marbling, but it actually was a beautiful tuna. Chef Iwa's most intricate work may have been the squid he sliced into paper thin pieces.

Chef Cushman resembled an artist, creating intricate combinations of ingredients, textures, colors and flavors. These were items that appealed to your eyes, drawing you into their beauty. These were some of the Nigiri pieces that he created, which even included a Potato Chip Nigiri, topped by a truffle. It might not be traditional, but one bite will make you not care.

After the hour of preparation passed, the judges' table was moved and we were readied to taste the chef's creations. The chefs actually had to prepare and/or cook their dishes a second time, so that everything was fresh for us to taste. We began by sampling all of Chef Cushman's dishes and then sampled Chef Iwa's dishes. And as we ate, the filming continued, though I'm not sure anyone actually wants to see me chewing a piece of sushi. After we tasted some of the sushi, we were asked our impressions about a number of the items. With all the editing that will occur for the TV show, I'm sure much of that will end up on the cutting room floor.

I didn't dislike a single item I ate, and didn't leave any fish on my plates. Both chefs excelled, creating a compelling collection of sushi. However, there were significant differences between the styles of the two chefs, which made judging even more difficult. How do you choose between two different styles, when both are so excellent? In some ways, it was not a fair comparison, but we judges needed to make a decision.

Chef Cushman prepared a number of dishes which you can find at his restaurant, creative and innovative sushi which are anything but simple. From a Fried Kumamoto Oyster with yuzu kosho aioli and squid ink bubbles to Hamachi with a spicy banana pepper mousse. From Maguro with soy braised garlic & microgreens to Foie Gras with balsamic chocolate kabayaki, claudio corallo raisin, cocoa pulp, and a sip of aged Sake. (We could have used some Sake for the entire competition.) His Hamachi with Viet mignonette, Thai basil, & shallot  was especially compelling. All of the dishes were well balanced, flavorful and intriguing. His reputation is well deserved.

On the other hand, Chef Iwa went more for simplicity of flavors and preparation. He was more traditional, letting the seafood largely speak for itself. There was Abalone and Ayu, Hamachi and Otoro, Ika and Eel, Fluke and Salmon. Chef Iwa also engaged in some firsts, as he had never previously worked with either Salmon or Lobster in creating sushi. I have to say that his Ika Nigiri (squid) was some of the best I've ever had, silky smooth and it was primarily due to his knife work. The grilled and marinated Ayu, sweetfish, presented a delicious meaty and smoky taste. His reputation too is very well deserved.

These were two very different experiences. Simplicity vs complexity. Subtlety vs boldness. Purity vs Harmony. Both experiences were equally compelling, but for different reasons. Trying to compare them is a formidable task. In some respects, it may devolve down to a matter of personal preference. In other respects, it may come down to the tiniest of differences. I certainly faced an enormous dilemma in trying to determine a winner, and my own difficulties were mirrored by the other judges. A winner had to chosen though.

Unfortunately for my readers, I can't tell you who I voted for, or who won the competition. I'm currently bound by confidentiality so that I cannot say anything until the episode airs in Japan. Once it does, I will be sure to update this post and tell you all what happened.

What I can say is that both of these chefs are winners, having created excellent dishes which any Sushi lover would thoroughly enjoy. They each gave it their all, valiant competitors who showcased their skills and experience. Each chef should be absolutely proud of their efforts and hold their head up high.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting wine and food items that are upcoming. **********************************************************
1) The Chefs Table Foundation and The Jamaica Plain Tuesday Club, both non-profit organizations, have partnered to bring the Neighborhood Cooking Tours of Jamaica Plain, a culinary tour of Jamaica Plain. The Chefs’ Table Series TV Show will film the chefs of four restaurants teaching a live audience how to cook a delicious dish. Proceeds from each cooking tour will benefit the non-profits. These events will take place at the Loring-Greenough House, at 12 South Street, Jamaica Plain.

Guest will watch co-host & trained chef Joe Murphy cook along with the featured chef of the week, enjoy a wine pairing, tasting of the chef’s dish, and be part of a live studio taping of The Chefs’ Table Series. A raffle will also be part of the festivities.

These events will take place on Mondays in June, starting at 6:15pm:
June 9th: The Haven
June 16th: Sanctuary
June 23rd: Bella Luna Restaurant & The Milky Way Lounge
June 30th: El Oriental de Cuba
Menus will be announced on website.

Tickets are $40 per person, and must be purchased in advance. There are no food substitutions. All guests must be in their seats by 6:15pm. All electronic devices must be turned off so not to interfere with the sound and filming of the show. It is estimated that the taping of the cooking segment, wine pairing, opening of the show, and guests enjoying wine and food will be 2 hours the most.

Tickets can be purchased by visiting: http://www.tablecritic.com/neighborhood-cooking-tours-in-jamaica-plain/ or by calling 617-323-0670.

2) On June 10, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Sonoma-Cutrer. Since the vineyard’s inception in 1973, Sonoma-Cutrer has been producing wine. Its foundation is built in the hillsides and rocky foothills in the region recognized as the Sonoma Coast Appellation. The region experiences long, even growing, seasons thanks to the cool, foggy coastal climate. Today, Sonoma-Cutrer’s flagship wine, Russian River Ranches, is one of the most requested Chardonnays in America.

Legal Sea Foods will team up with Winemaking Director, Mick Schroeter, to host an exclusive four-plus-course dinner paired with his selections from the Sonoma-Cutrer vine. The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Citrus Swordfish, Green Apple, Orange Glaze
Prosciutto Wrapped Shrimp, Aged Balsamic Glaze
Salt Cod Cakes, Lemon, Saffron Aioli
Sonoma-Cutrer “Russian River Ranches” Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, 2012
FIRST COURSE
Yuzu Halibut Filet (Citrus, Watercress, Cucumber Salad, Honey-Mint Vinaigrette)
Sonoma-Cutrer “Les Pierres” Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, 2011
SECOND COURSE
Braised Alaskan King Crab Legs (Fried Enoki Mushrooms, Baby Mache)
Sonoma-Cutrer “Founders Reserve” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2003
THIRD COURSE
Hickory Wood Grilled Wild Salmon (Green Puy Lentil Ragout, Porcini à la Bordelaise)
Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, 2011
DESSERT COURSE
Anjou Pear Crostata (Honey Mascarpone Cheese, Marcona Almonds)
Sonoma-Cutrer “Late Harvest” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2012

COST: $95 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397

The Great Purple Debate

On Facebook, Dave Andelman, of The Phantom Gourmet, is outspoken and controversial. He has also been generally unwilling to debate his points of view there, banning numerous individuals who have voiced an opinion different than his own. I am one of those persons that he banned on Facebook, because I dared argue with him. Though I left it alone for a time, I eventually decided to pursue it, to confront him once again.

Through a series of email exchanges, which began rather heated, we actually came to a consensus of sorts. In a positive step at the end, Dave agreed to participate in a public debate with me, concentrating on the issue of food trucks. Dave's opposition to food trucks is well known, and he feels very confident that he can back up his assertions. I am equally as confident that I can defeat Dave on this issue.

Though all of the details have not yet been settled, some matters have already been set. In deference to Dave, the location of the debate will be the Kowloon Restaurant. There will be a limited amount of tickets available to the public for this debate, though the price has not yet been set. The ticket price though will include a Chinese buffet, with all-you-can-eat chicken wings, and a portion of the proceeds will go to fighting sexism in the restaurant industry, a charity dear to Dave's heart.

The debate will be decided by three judges and Dave and I each get to select one judge, and then must agree on the choice of the third judge. I have not yet chosen my judge, though I have a few people on my list I will be asking soon, including a couple local food writers. As for our agreed judge, we are hoping to get the former Mayor Thomas Menino to participate. Dave has already chosen Ernie Boch, Jr. to be his judge.

The event will likely take place sometime near the end of May, and I will update my readers as soon as the details are confirmed.

Of course any debate requires some stakes, and we have agreed upon conditions to occur should either of us lose the debate. If I lose, I have agreed to make a substantial donation to Andelman's Restaurant & Business Alliance. If Dave loses, then the Phantom Gourmet must sponsor a special Food Truck event for all of their phans.

I look forward to this great, purple debate!

Simply Ming: On The Road In Japan

"The worst cuisine is bad fusion."
--Chef Ming Tsai

Last month, I visited Chef Tsai's restaurant Blue Ginger, located in Wellesley, to attend a special preview event showcasing the new Simply Ming "On the Road: Japan" series, part of Season 11 of this popular PBS show, shown locally on WGBH. The event, An Evening Celebrating the Food and Culture of Japan, was hosted by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries of Japan (MAFF), which also sent Chef Tsai to Japan to explore its diverse and fascinating food and beverage industry. This was a fun, interesting and informative event with plenty of delicious Sake and food. It also was a strong motivation to watch the new Simply Ming episodes.

During his whirlwind tour of Japan, Chef Tsai visited the prefectures of Osaka, Hyogo, Nara, Nagoya, and Tokyo. His visits spanned from how specific food items are produced, such as miso and Sake, to how foods are sold, such as seafood at the Tsukiji Market. In addition, he got to learn how Japanese cuisine is prepared, cooking with some of the top chefs of Japan. When Chef Tsai spoke about his wonderful experiences in Japan, his passion was infectious.

Those experiences have been recorded in six episodes, three of which have already aired. The first episode, Michiba & Seafood, was all about seafood, including a visit to Tsukiji Market. Chef Tsai also had the opportunity to cook with Japan’s first Iron Chef, Rokusaburo Michiba. Though Chef Tsai rarely gets nervous, he felt nervous while cooking with this culinary legend. The second episode, Wakiya & Ramen, is all about ramen, including a visit to the Instant Ramen Museum in Osaka. Chef Tsai cooked with another Iron Chef, Chef Yuji Wakiya, using the famed Kobe Beef A5 in his own dish. The third episode, Street Foods in Japan, is self explanatory, as Chef Tsai checked out the diversity available, from yakitori to takoyaki. The final three episodes will start airing next month: February 15, February 22 and March 1. Set your DVR accordingly.

Over the course of the evening, servers came by with seven different dishes, each compelling and satisfying. Above, you can see the Foie Gras Shumai, in a sauternes-shallot broth. Other dishes included the Smashed Shrimp Dumpling, with a citrus-truffle vinaigrette, Sake-Miso Marinated Sablefish, with vegetarian soba noodle sushi, wasabi oil, and soy-lime syrup, and Thai Style Chawan Mushi, with lobster and mushrooms. I didn't have a single complaint about any of these dishes, and would definitely order any of them if I saw them on a menu. The Chawan Mushi was one of the best I have ever tasted and every dish burst with flavor. One commonality with all these dishes was the taste of umami, which made them especially delicious paired with Sake (and I'll be posting about the Sakes tomorrow).

Two of the dishes are presented in the On the Road series, including the Miso-Sake "Coq au Vin" and New Style Buri Sashimi with Hot Curry Oil. In the Coq au Vin, the Sake and miso were both sourced from producers in Nara and Nagoya. This dish was a burst of umami, with such a rich and flavorful broth and tender chicken. The Buri, also known as yellow tail, was sourced from Japanese waters at the height of the season. Such fresh and silky smooth fish, complemented by the spice of the oil and hints of sweetness. It may seem to be a relatively simple dish but it possessed a complex melange of flavors.

Though Chef Tsai didn't really explore dessert options while he was in Japan, he did prepare a dessert for us. The Toasted Sesame Pear Tea Cake, with miso-caramel and sweet cream, was an excellent way to end the evening, presenting a balanced sweet with a nice combination of textures. I had sufficient room to eat two of these tea cakes.

In the later part of the evening, Chef Tsai spoke a bit about his recent experiences in Japan, as well as discussed some of his cooking philosophy. He ended his discussion by taking numerous questions from the attendees. With the amount of questions from the audience, Chef Tsai could have probably spoken for about four hours. Chef Tsai is insightful, charismatic and humorous, and certainly enthralled the attendees with his tales of the culinary world in Japan.

As he began, he explained that Japanese cuisine is one of his favorites in the entire world, noting that the "food is so pristine," and that included their Sake as well. The purity of Japanese cuisine is an important aspect, and that desire for purity permeates much of their culture too. The freshness and quality of their ingredients is an essential component, and they understand that if you possess such a high quality ingredient, little needs to be done to prepare it. It largely can stand on its own, bringing a wealth of flavor. In addition, when referring to an exquisite Sake, the Japanese may state that it is "as easy to drink as water," referring to the purity of that Sake.

Chef Tsai waxed longingly about his recent experiences in Japan, reveling in all the wonderful things he had to eat, from sublime Kobe 85, which he equated to "eating a nugget of fat lined with meat" to a Wakiya ramen with crab and an intriguing soy cream. He spoke reverently about the famous chefs he visited, being allowed to cook beside them. As we watched some clips from the new shows, it was evident this is going to be a fascinating view into Japan cuisine. Chef Tsai even was surprised in Japan when he stopped at a truck stop and found it contained a large and well stocked food market, with an assortment of fantastic ingredients. You probably won't find something like that in any truck stop in the U.S. Instead, you are more likely to find Slim Jims and Doritos.

Besides relating his Japanese experiences, Chef Tsai also talked more generally about Japanese cuisine, and the challenges in bringing it to the U.S. When Chef Tsai first learned how to make sushi rice, he wasn't allowed into the sushi preparation area for the first three months. He had to earn the respect before being able to enter that area. Another very Japanese concept. I started this post with a quote from Chef Tsai about bad fusion, and he went into greater detail about this thought, tying it into the greater issue of respect.

Like Chef Tsai, many chefs now prepare an East/West cuisine, though it might be known by other terms, such as New French or New Spanish. Despite those other terms, the basic idea is the added use of Eastern ingredients to more traditional Western dishes. Chefs now have a ready availability to a deluge of ingredients from all over the world. That is a fantastic opportunity but can also be a trap, especially if you do not truly understand those ingredients.

Chef Tsai believes you need to respect those ingredients, and that requires learning about them, understanding how they are used in their native land. He feels you need to "earn the right to blend," and not just toss ingredients together when you really don't understand their origins. Any chef can mix numerous exotic ingredients together on a plate, but that doesn't mean the dish will work or taste good. Careful preparation requires knowledge and experience.

He also added that "more is not better" and that simpler dishes are usually better. You can tire a palate with too many complex dishes with lots of ingredients. That is why many Japanese dishes lean more toward simplicity, yet still do not lack for flavor. The key is often using the best ingredients, letting them largely stand on their own. For example, sushi is often a simple dish, and its quality depends in large part on the freshness of the ingredients, such as the seafood. Chef Tsai noted that "we create dishes to make a better dish not a different dish." That concept should govern chefs when designing a new dish.

If you can travel to a place like Japan to learn about their ingredients and cooking styles, that would obviously be the most educational. For example, in Osaka, there are about 120 different types of restaurants! Such amazing specialization. However, the Internet is an invaluable tool now for researching ingredients and cuisines if you are unable to travel to the source. Or, you could also seek out a chef in the U.S. who is conversant in the cuisine. Chef Tsai noted that New York City has a number of great, authentic Japanese restaurants.

I recommend that you check out the Simply Ming "On the Road: Japan" series, and learn more about the fascinating world of Japanese cuisine. And I also recommend that you check out Chef Ming Tsais's two restaurants, Blue Ginger and Blue Dragon. And hopefully chefs and cooks will take heed to, and seek more knowledge about exotic ingredients before using them in their kitchens.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
**********************************************************
1) Great news! After suffering a kitchen fire on July 15, Chef & Owner Anthony Caturano is ready to reopen the doors to his North End staple, Prezza. Opening today, the refreshed Prezza will once again dazzle diners with its Old World-style Italian cuisine and a wine list boasting over 800 labels.

Says Caturano, “We are really excited to kick off 2013 on a fresh note. On behalf of the Prezza team, I want to sincerely thank the Boston Fire Department, the City of Boston and our amazing neighbors, friends and patrons for the overwhelming support we’ve received in wake of the kitchen fire. We are forever grateful and look forward to reuniting with everyone soon.”

Prezza will make its encore performance by debuting a new menu that captures the tastes of the seasons through twists on classic Italian preparations. Newcomers to the appetizer portion of the menu include: Lambrusco Braised Chicken Thighs (with prosciutto, crispy potatoes - $16); Eggplant Stuffed with Fresh Anchovies (scamorza, roasted tomato - $16); Sunny Egg (wild mushrooms, grilled bread - $16); Baccala (tomato, fresh chili pepper, chick peas - $16); and, Chestnut Soup (croutons, duck confit, white beans, mushrooms - $15). For new handmade pastas ($15 – appetizer; $30 – entrée), Chef Caturano will now serve: Ricotta Stuffed Pansotti (butter, sage, Aceto Balsamico); Chestnut Ravioli (pulled duck, butter, parmigiano cheese); and, Pumpkin Ravioli (brown butter, sage, mascarpone, lobster meat).

From the oven, Prezza will now dish out: Roasted Halibut (squid ink gnocchi, lobster, cherry tomatoes, basil lobster broth - $34); Roasted Bronzino (Brussels sprouts, black olives, roast potatoes - $28); Veal Porterhouse (saffron lobster risotto, broccoli rabe, red wine sauce - $46); and, Venison Loin (grilled cabbage, amarone risotto - $38). Prezza will also continue serving up throwback favorites such as: Seared Scallops (pumpkin, sage, mascarpone, spiced hazelnuts - $16); Grilled Clams (sausage, tomato, lemon zest, oregano - $16); Crispy Shrimp (Italian slaw, cherry pepper aioli - $16); and, Wood Grilled Squid & Octopus (braised white beans, toasted parsley - $16); Ravioli di Ouvo (ravioli stuffed with ricotta and egg yolk, tossed with butter and sage - $12); Potato Gnocchi a la Bolognese (rustic meat ragout, tomato, porcini cream, pecorino cheese - $15 – appetizer; $30 – entrée); Fish Stew (lobster, swordfish, shrimp, clams, mussels, squid, lobster broth, toasted bread, saffron aioli - $38); Crispy Pork Chop (vinegar peppers, potatoes, roasted red onions - $28); and, Swordfish (tomato braised octopus, chili flake, chickpeas - $30).

Prezza is open for dinner Sunday through Thursday from 5:30pm-10 and Friday and Saturday from 5:00pm-10:30pm. The bar opens daily at 4:30pm.

2) Turner Fisheries is unveiling an Ocean to Table Tuesday night dinner series this month, which will offer guests the option of ordering seasonally inspired, three-course prix fixe menus featuring a different theme per month. This series launches on January 8, every Tuesday from 5pm-10pm.  Chef de Cuisine Armand Toutaint has chosen a theme of root vegetables for the month of January, and will be preparing dishes featuring pumpkin, sweet potato, parsnip, and beets, paired with sustainable seafood. Guests can expect to dine on broiled rainbow trout with honey glazed beets and skin-on haddock with sweet potato hash.

The Ocean to Table dinner costs $45 per person, exclusive of tax and gratuity. Wine pairings are additional, and will vary by menu.

3) Owner & Chef Brian Poe has decided that his New Year’s resolution is to launch a brunch at the Tip Tap Room in Beacon Hill. Poe now offers the Tipsy Brunch on Sundays from 10:30am-3pm. The brunch will include some classics with modern twists including: Muffins & Stuff (Chef Poe’s blend of fresh breads with breakfast caramel butters --$6); Baked Berry Irish Cut Oatmeal (topped with mint, white chocolate mousse, cinnamon sugared pecans - $6); Breakfast Salad (frisée with champagne and brown sugar vinaigrette topped with grilled doughnut croutons on a frittata - $9); Belgian Beer Waffles (Belgian Wit maple syrup, beer butter $10); Two Eggs (scrambled, fried or poached on toast with potatoes $8.50); Tip Top Benedict (butter fried smashed potato cake dusted with English muffin crumbs, cured ham, poached eggs, beer cheese hollandaise $12.50); The Signature Omelet (basil, Brie cheese, mushrooms, truffle shavings, asparagus $11.95); BLT Burger & Egg (housemade Beacon Hill bacon, lettuce, tomato, egg, cheddar on brioche, served with French fries $8.95); Cranberry French Toast (topped with maple pecans and whipped cream $12); Jalapeño Corned Beef Hash (topped with a poached egg $11); Croque Madame (griddled ham with Gruyere cheese, Dijon mustard, fried egg $12); and, Steak & Egg (5oz peppercorn-parsley rubbed filet, fried egg, whiskey sauce on French toast $21.95). For sides, there is Bacon ($3), Toast ($2) and Sausage ($3). To pair with the homestyle goodness, the Tip Tap Room will also serve up their 36 seasonal beers on tap as well as brunch-esque specialty brews.

4) In an episode dubbed the “Italian Empire,” by the Food Network, the Tuscan Brands family which includes the Tuscan Kitchen restaurant and the newly opened Tuscan Market in Salem, NH, both focusing on authentic artisanal food and preparation, will be the focus of an upcoming episode of “Chef Wanted with Anne Burrell.”

In the episode which is scheduled to air on Thursday, January 31 at 10pm, Tuscan Brands is looking for an executive chef who can handle the heavy volume while maintaining a dedication to scratch cooking. Chef Anne Burrell brings in four candidates, who are tested on their Italian cuisine skills and knowledge. The final two chefs are each handed the keys to the restaurant for a dinner service: One chef must dig their way out of a bad start, while the other struggles with consistency.

“It was a great experience working with Anne who shared our passion and commitment to authentic artisan Italian cuisine,” said Joe Faro, Chief Food Taster and Founder of Tuscan Brands.

A viewing party is in the works for the evening of the show at Tuscan Kitchen and more details will be released as they become available.

5) On January 31, at 6:30pm, Legal Harborside will team up with Château Fuissé winemaker, Antoine Vincent, to host a wine dinner at Legal Harborside. This four-plus-course culinary adventure will highlight the best tastes from sea and vine.

The menu is as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Gougère with camembert mousse
Freshly shucked oysters,* citrus mignonette
Alaskan crab cannelloni, Thai basil and chili
J.J. Vincent Crémant de Bourgogne, NV
FIRST COURSE
Braised Lobster (quince and ham salad, lettuce-ginger emulsion)
 J.J. Vincent Pouilly-Fuissé “Marie Antoinette,” 2010
SECOND COURSE
Fresh Chestnut Soup (squab-stuffed cabbage, hazelnut oil and pain d’épices)
Château Fuissé Juliénas “Domaine de la Conseillère,” Cru Beaujolais, 2009
Château Fuissé Morgon “Charmes,” Cru Beaujolais, 2009
THIRD COURSE
Baked Halibut (fricassée of snails, sweetbreads and lardons, roasted shallot and Meyer lemon)
Château Fuissé Pouilly-Fuissé “Les Brulés,” 2009
Château Fuissé Pouilly-Fuissé “Les Brulés,” 2008
CHEESE
Selection of Burgundian cheese
Château Fuissé Pouilly-Fuissé “Le Clos,” 2010
Château Fuissé Pouilly-Fuissé “Le Clos,” 2008

COST: $95 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservations can be made by contacting 617-530-9470

6) Owner & Chef Brian Poe is launching a new lunch menu at the Tip Tap Room in Beacon Hill. Chef Poe’s new offerings include a series of savory appetizers and soups, lunch salads, sandwiches and burgers and, of course, its namesake’s tips and taps.

For starters, the Tip Tap Room will dish out the following items: Wild Mushrooms (sautéed with soy & chive vinaigrette, charred tomatoes - $9.75); Boar Meatballs (spicy ginger cilantro garlic broth - $13.95); Baked St. André Brie (coriander citrus roasted beets, warm mushroom vinaigrette - $9.95); Mashed Sampler (shareable tasting of horseradish, goat cheese, creamed corn & olive tapenade mashed potatoes - $5); French Onion Soup (Gruyère cheese, toast point - $5/cup; $9/bowl); and, Acorn Squash Soup (cinnamon spiked cranberry salsa, goat cheese - $5/cup; $9/bowl).

New lunch salads include the following highlights, all available with an optional tip selection (additional $6.50; swordfish - $7.50; wild game - $10): The Tip Tap (maple roasted pecans, roasted pumpkin, blue cheese crumbles, cranberry-sage vinaigrette - $9.95); Fried Goat Cheese (grilled asparagus, watercress, crispy prosciutto, carrot-ginger vinaigrette - $10.95); and, Grilled Baby Bok Choy (sauté of snap peas, Thai chilies, caramelized shiitakes, grilled tofu, sesame-soy vinaigrette - $10.95).

There are ten sandwich and burger options like: Mediterranean Tuna Melt (tuna salad, melted American cheese, Bibb lettuce, tomato, sourdough bread - $10.95); Grilled Sausage Sub (beer boiled, bell pepper & onion slaw, French baguette - $9.95); B.L.T. (seven-bacon tips, lettuce, tomato, Tabasco mayonnaise, sourdough bread - $8.95); Turkey Burger (lettuce, tomato, cranberry-fennel slaw - $10.95); and, Steak Burger (lettuce, tomato, veal demi, A1 aioli, Tip Tap dressing - $10.95).

7) On Sunday, February 10, China Blossom Restaurant and Lounge, located in North Andover, and the Andover Chinese Cultural Exchange (ACCE) will celebrate the Chinese New Year with a festival sponsored by Yang’s Martial Arts. The Chinese New Year celebration is centuries old and the most important of the traditional Chinese holidays. More than anything, the Chinese New Year is a time to bring family together for feasting and celebration, and China Blossom will highlight this with authentic cuisine as well as various Asian traditions. Due to the tremendous success of last year’s event, a second seating has been added this year, and guests will have the choice of attending a 4pm or 6pm performance, with each show followed by dinner.

Guests will enjoy butt-kicking gong fu (kung fu) and lion dance demonstrations, as well as traditional Chinese dances from the Newton Chinese Dance Team and live cultural music. World-renowned player Zhan-tao Lin will wow the crowd with the Er-hu, which is similar to a violin with an exception of two strings. Lin is a professional musician from China who has won many competitions and performs in the New England area, including at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. In addition, celebrated musician Shin-Yi Yang is sure to please with the Gu-zheng, an ancient Chinese instrument that has strings that are plucked like a guitar’s. Yang is the founder of the Boston Guzheng Ensemble and the two-time winner of the Traditional Arts Apprenticeship given by the Massachusetts Cultural Council's Folk Arts and Heritage Program. Guests will also have the chance to increase their luck and ward off evil spirits in the New Year with the Hong Bao (Red Envelope) ceremony. During this traditional ceremony, red envelopes containing “lucky money” are typically given by the married to the unmarried, usually children.

After guests have taken in all of the festivities, guests will be invited to indulge in a dim sum buffet featuring China Blossom favorites as well as traditional Chinese New Year offerings. Tickets are $30 per person (Senior and children pricing is available: Seniors, $25, Under 11, $20), and can be purchased online here or by calling China Blossom at (978) 682-2242. Seating is limited and reservations are required. Proceeds will benefit the ACCE, a non-profit community group dedicated to introducing Chinese culture. ACCE provides educational opportunities and support for charitable causes in the Merrimack Valley.

Ongoing Events & Live Performances:
Er Hu (Chinese Violin) performance
Gu Zheng (Zither) performance
Newton Chinese Dance Team
Lion Dance by Yang's Martial Arts
Martial Arts Demonstration by Yang's Martial Arts
ACCE Singing Chorus
Hong Bao (Red Envelope) ceremony
Buffet dinner featuring traditional dim sum

COST: Tickets are $30 per person (Senior and children pricing is available: Seniors, $25, Under 11, $20).
RSVP: Seating is limited and reservations are required. Tickets can be purchased online here or by calling China Blossom at (978) 682-2242.

8) For the first time in CityFeast’s 8 year history, the Seaport District and the South End will join the North End in dining out to conquer Diabetes! The 8th Annual CityFeast, held on Sunday, January 27, at 6pm, is fun-filled evening hosted by twelve of the most exclusive restaurants in Boston: Antico Forno, Aura, The Gallows, Lucca, Lucia, Pulcinella Mozzarella Bar, Taranta, Temazcal, Terramia Ristorante, Tremont 647, Tresca and Strega Waterfront.

Tickets include a five-course dinner with wine pairings (or tequila pairings at Temazcal) at the choice participating restaurant, and proceeds will benefit Joslin’s High Hopes Fund, which provides support for research, clinical care and education for diabetics and their families.

The North End’s own Carla Gomes began this event to show her dedication and appreciation to Joslin after her son David was diagnosed with Type 1 diabetes on his first birthday. David has received care at Joslin for over 18 years.

Tickets are priced at $150 each; of which $100 is tax deductible. Due to high demand, reservations are limited, and will be distributed on a first come first serve basis. For more information on CityFeast or to purchase tickets visit: Http://­www.­joslin.­org/­cityfeast

The Drops of God: From A Fangirl’s POV

(Today, I present a guest post from Cynette, a content writer for Wine Cellar Innovations. As you likely know, I have been giving rave reviews to the new English translations of The Drops of God, a Japanese wine comic. In 2009, the Japanese comic was adapted into a live action television series that ran for 9 episodes. Obviously this brief series had to omit much of what can be found in the hundreds of issues of the comic. In addition, the series presented an ending to the comic saga, which is currently still being printed in new comics. Will that TV ending be the same as the comic ending? We will have to wait years to find out. I have yet to see the TV series but Cynette has and is here to discuss her thoughts on it.)

I first came across The Drops of God in a jdrama site while doing my usual rounds of monthly marathons. Basically, the drama came first with me and not the manga (Japanese word for “comics”). It did help that the one who played the protagonist, Kanzaki Shizuku, happened to be my all-time favorite Japanese actor in the person of certified Johnny’s “aidoru” Kamenashi Kazuya. So to be honest, I watched the drama because of my fangirl instincts. However, I was in for a very pleasant surprise.

I never did imagine that a drama series could get me hooked on wine this much. Not that I dislike wine! I’m a wine lover myself, though I probably don’t indulge in it as much as other certified connoisseurs. But Kami no Shizuku (the Japanese title for Drops) opened my eyes and specifically my taste buds to a whole new level of wine appreciation. The drama got me so hooked that when the short thirteen episode series was over, I moved on to read the manga. This only made me appreciate the series even more and proves another point.

As an old generation otaku, I have always adhered to the belief that no matter how good the animated series is (anime, for brevity), the manga will always come across as the better version. This is only understandable since most animes come from celebrated mangas that have become so popular they need a wider audience to cater to. The same goes true for drama series as against their original manga stories. Case in point: Kami no Shizuku. The drama series ended too soon for me, especially since the manga hasn’t even reached halfway yet. And that’s not just what makes the manga the more superior version.

Believe me, nothing could persuade me to think that Kamenashi Kazuya didn’t do Shizuku’s character justice. He is one of the finest actors the Japanese entertainment industry has ever turned out. However, I felt that Shizuku’s character hasn’t fully evolved yet in the manga for the drama series to do him justice. I especially enjoyed seeing Shizuku and his arch rival Issei battle it out every taste test to identify the 13 mystery wines, 12 of which are called the “Apostles.” Shizuku’s father who was one of the country’s greatest connoisseurs designed the competition as outlined in his will in order for the winner to take ownership of the Kanzaki legacy. Of the 12 wines, the last one is called the Drops of God which, in the drama, was translated to be the “God of Wine.”

In the drama series, they performed most of the tasting rounds in an elegant wine cellar in Shizuku’s home. There, both competitors try to describe as closely as possible each Apostle to match the late Kanzaki Yutaka’s description of the wine in his will. While the drama provided so many beautiful imagery as each Apostle is being revealed, I found the manga to have given a more soulful description of the wines. For example, the first wine introduced in the manga was a 99 Richebourge. It was depicted in the manga as the “fragrance of 100 flowers” with scenes from fields teeming with gorgeous colored blossoms. However, this was only after Shizuku got the wine to “open up” with his incredible decanting skills (So I learned what the art of decanting was really like here to!). It was also revealed that Shizuku never actually drank wine despite his uncanny abilities. He went on a rebellious streak in the past against his late father whom he claimed to be so obsessed with nothing but wine he forgot about more important things like his family.

But here’s the big thumbs-up to both the drama and the manga: both have managed to capture beautifully the development of Shizuku’s character specifically his attitude towards wine. The uncovering of the mystery wines was later on shown to be actually a journey for Shizuku to unearth his father’s true feelings for him. Naturally, the series ended it on a high note but as the manga is still ongoing, spoilers at this point would be very thoughtless, especially to those following the manga faithfully. Nonetheless, both the manga and the drama series come highly recommended particularly to true-blooded connoisseurs and wine cellar enthusiasts out there. From the wine rack down to the bottle and the glass, The Drops of God weaves a spellbinding tale revolving on the passion for wine, for family, and for friendship.

Thanks to Richard of Passionate Foodie and a fellow Drops of God follower for allowing me to make this article especially for his blog. We’re both waiting for the final round in the manga to be completed and while the competition between Shizuku and Issei is still hot, we suggest you guys join us and pay catch up! Or, you can try the series in the meantime as well. Either way, this is one work of fiction that will certainly tickle your wine-drenched taste buds!

Cynette Lovelyn M. Montoya is a Content Writer at Wine Cellar Innovations and enjoys writing anything and everything about great wine and wine cellars. She is a huge fan of Japanese manga and anime, specifically Kami no Shizuku and other food and wine-themed manga.