2011: Top Ten Wines Over $15

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Last week, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful, and now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15, though these wines also cost less than $50.

Like the prior list, it includes wines that during the past year I have enjoyed very much and which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out for some particular reason above the other wines I tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1)  2007 Bodegas Paso Robles Vaca Negra ($24)

For the second year in a row, this winery has a wine on this list. Owner and winemaker Dorothy Schuler is working wonders with Spanish and Portuguese grapes in California. This wine, a blend of 50% Tempranillo and 50% Mourvedre, is impressive, with a complex melange of appealing flavors and its lushness provides hedonistic pleasures. If you have not tried any of Dorothy's wines, I strongly encourage you to seek them out.

2)  2008 Francis Tannahill Dragonfly Gewürztraminer ($20-$25)
Though this is an Oregon winery, the grapes are from a select organic vineyard in Washington. The vineyard may have the oldest Gewürztraminer in the Northwest region and the wine is a superb example of this grape. Strongly aromatic with exotic spices and tropical fruits, this is a very appealing wine. One of the best Gewürztraminer I have tasted in some time.

3)  2009 Ayres Pinot Noir, Lewis Rodgers Lane ($35)
Also from Oregon, this wine is a blend of five Pinot Noir clones, and the winery itself is one of the relative newcomers to that region. But it is already producing excellent wines and this wine is beautiful, complex and possessed of an elegant melange of black and blue fruits with dark spice and earthiness. This is a winery to keep an eye on for the future.

4)  NV Horton Vineyards Sparkling Viognier ($25)
I didn't get to taste anywhere near as many Virginia wines as I wanted to at the Wine Blogger's Conference, but of those that I did, this was a standout. It was crisp, clean and dry with flavors of peach, citrus and white flowers. It was a very appealing sparkling wine which should please many people.

5)  2008 Marani Mukuzani (about $17)
This year, I got some exposure to the wines of the country of Georgia, an area which is becoming hot in the wine world. There are over 500 indigenous grapes in Georgia though only about 38 are currently used for wine production.This wine is made from 100% Saperavi, offering enticing black cherry and plum aroma with a taste of those same fruits, meshed with vanilla, spice and a tinge of chocolate. Yet there was also a unique exotic taste to this complexity which eluded definition. An excellent value at this price.

6)  2007 Bagrationi 1882 Reserve Brut ($19.99)
Georgia also produces some intriguing sparkling wines, like this one which is a blend of Chinebuli, Mtsvane, and Tsitska, three grapes you have probably never heard of before. It was produced by the Methode Champenoise and possesses a strong minerality, almost a steely nature. The fruit flavors, some peach and melon, were subdued but noticeable. Clean, refreshing and with good acidity. A wine of character at a very reasonable price.

7)  Bodegas Renacer Enamore ($30)
An Amarone style wine from Argentina? It is not as crazy as it sounds, especially considering how many Italians immigrated to Argentina. This wine is a blend of 62% Malbec, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 9% Bonarda, and 4% Syrah. All of the grapes were dried out for about three weeks. The result is a seductive and silky wine that is sure to tantalize your senses. This is a wine to share with someone you love.

8)  2009 Alma Negra Misterio ($40-$45)
As the name indicates, this wine is a bit of a mystery and the actual blend is secret, though it may contain Malbec, Petite Verdot, Merlot, Bonarda and/or Cabernet Sauvignon. Complex, smooth and well structured, it is a wine to slowly savor. It has more elegance than power, and it would be fine on its own, or paired with a hearty dish.

9)  1999 L D'or de Luneau-Papin 'Cuvee Medaillee' Muscadet Sevre et Maine ($25)
This may be one of the best bargains on the list, a 12 year old Muscadet. Complex and intriguing flavors with dried fruits, apricot, honey, minerality, and even some herbal notes. There was still plenty of life in this wine, and I would easily have bought a case at this low price. A wine of this quality rarely is priced this low.

10)  2008 Quinta dos Murças Reserva Red ($45)
Portugal impressed at the value wines, and now they represent on this list as well. This is a fascinating wine, a field blend of old vines, maybe 25 grapes or so. Only about five of the grapes in the blend are identifiable, making this a vinous mystery. It has an enticing and exotic nose, with an earthy and spicy smell mixed in with blackfruit, while its taste is a complex melange of earth, spice, vanilla, blackfruit and even mild hints of herbality. A superb wine which should impress most wine lovers and is an example of the best of Portugal.

This is always my toughest list to compile because there are numerous other excellent wines which I could have added. So I had to ponder long over which wines to actually add to this list. Last year, California dominated this list, occupying six spots but this year only a single California wine made the list. But three other U.S. wines did make the list, from Oregon, Washington and Virginia.  Georgia (the country) and Argentina both occupy two spots on the list while France and Portugal each occupy one spot.

I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too. My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting. I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

Rant: Rushing To Judge A New Restaurant

As soon as a hot, new restaurant opens, there is a rush for food bloggers and online reviewers to dine there and immediately report back. Time is of the essence, with many wanting to be one of the first to review the new place. Often, they will eat there once and then post their thoughts. If they enjoyed the experience, they will likely return but if they didn't, then they probably will never go back. Such reviews might do a disservice to these restaurants, failing to take into consideration their newly opened status.

Opening a new restaurant is an arduous and expensive task and there is only so much advance planning that can be done. The true test is when the restaurant finally opens to the public, and then the restaurant might see certain problems and errors that need to be resolved. As such, I think a good rule of thumb is to allow a new restaurant about three months to fix all of the initial problems. That should give them sufficient time to identity and resolve the initial kinks that often plague all new establishments.

What that means then, is that anyone reviewing a restaurant during that initial three-month period needs to give some leeway to the place, to not judge them too harshly. Any negative issues that a reviewer finds might already be on a list to be fixed. So you cannot assume that those problems will continue to exist in the near future. The restaurant deserves the time and opportunity to resolve any initial issues.

There is nothing wrong with reviewing a restaurant during the first three months of its opening. But, how you review the place can be an issue. I usually preface my own such reviews, noting the newness of the place and that any problems I encountered could very well change once the initial kinks are worked out. I then try to return to the restaurant, once that three months period is over, to see what changes have been wrought.

But I have seen some bloggers who strongly criticize a new restaurant soon after it opens, and then never return. They rush to judge, without allowing the restaurant a fair amount of time to rectify any initial problems that are found. They do a true disservice to new restaurants as well as indicating their own lack of professionalism. Being first to review should not be their primary concern.  Rather, they should be concerned with being fair to the new restaurant, being fair to the owners, chefs and staff who are working hard to make their new place successful.

If you are guilty of these offenses, then endeavor to change your ways. You can still review a restaurant soon after it opens, just measure your review with mercy and be prepared to return again, after at least three months, to see whether the restaurant has changed or not.

Unanswered Sake Questions: 2 Out Of 3

With approximately 2000 years of history in Japan, sake has a rich and vibrant collection of legends, rituals, categories, types, brands, and more. Of course, all of that history is bound to lead to some unanswered questions, some fascinating sake mysteries. I am devoting this post to three sake questions which have intrigued me, two of which apparently lack answers. And I only discerned the answer to the third question very recently, and more by accident than purpose.

If anyone has any insight to the unanswered questions, or even just wants to offer their own theory, please leave me a comment. Or leave me your own sake questions for which you lack an answer.

1. Why isn't lactic acid a listed ingredient?

Junmai and Honjozo, the two main premium sake categories, can only possess four or five ingredients respectively. A Junmai, a "pure rice" sake, can only contain rice, water, yeast and koji-kin while a Honjozo has those same four ingredients as well as some distilled alcohol. Yet both usually contain another ingredient, which does not get listed on their labels, and I am very curious as to the rationale for that omission.

In brewing sake, a yeast starter, also called moto or shubo, is produced, combining water, rice, koji and yeast. In addition, lactic acid, known as hiochi-kin, is added to the moto to inhibit the growth of unwanted bacteria. This is known as the sokujo method, and at least 99% of all sake is made by this method. The lactic acid is very important to the brewing process, allowing the yeast to safely multiply, and preventing the growth of bacteria which would adversely affect the sake. The term sokujo is not listed on sake labels, but you should assume it was the method used unless the label specifically indicates a different method.

Yamahai and kimoto are two other brewing methods and in both, the brewer does not add any lactic acid. Instead, the brewer allows natural lactic acid from the air to enter the moto over time. This is a lengthier and riskier process, that often creates earthier and gamier sakes. If either of those methods is used, it is usually indicated on the label so you know lactic acid was not added by the brewer.

But why isn't lactic acid listed as an ingredient? The fact it is used in almost all sake is an insufficient reason to omit it, as all sake uses the four ingredients in Junmai too. Is it a matter of the small amount of lactic acid that is added? Maybe, but the great importance of the lactic acid should count for something. I have been unable to locate the answer to this question.

2. Why aren't "half bottles" of sake a standard size? 

There is much standardization in the size of sake bottles and serving sizes.  The smallest unit is the shaku, which is a serving size of 18ml. The masu, a traditional wooden drinking box, held 180ml, and that is considered a single serving of sake, also known as ichigo or just go. A tokkuri is a ceramic flask used to serve sake, most often warmed, and they usually come in a 1 or 2 go sizes, 180 or 360 milliliters. The standard sake bottle, known as a yongobin, holds 720ml or 4 go. There are two larger format bottles too, the ishoobin (or shou), which contains 1.8 liters or 10 go and the to-bin (or to) which contains 18 liters or 100 go.

With all this standardization, then you would assume to find half bottles with 360ml or 2 go, but that is almost never the case. Instead, you will usually find "half bottles" with 300ml, 330ml, 350 ml, or even 375ml. That seems to make no sense, especially as all of their other bottles are so standardized. What is the need for all these different sized half bottles? Why aren't 360ml bottles the norm? Once again, I have been unable to find any answer to this conundrum.

3. Why doesn't 365 Masu equal 1 Koku?

The masu, a traditional wooden drinking box that I mentioned above, holds 180ml and traditionally that was the measure of how much rice was needed to feed one person for one day. Traditionally, a koku was a measure of how much rice was needed to feed one person for one year. In medieval Japan, domains were measured by the amount of koku and samurai would sometimes receive their salaries in koku. Now, by simple math, a person would require 365 masu of rice for one year, so 365 masu should equal one koku.

But, in reality 1000 masu equal 1 koku. So why is that the case? I could not find an answer for some time but recently stumbled upon the answer while researching something else. It seems that in 1891, Japan decided to redefine the koku unit, making it smaller than it once had been (though I am unsure of their reasons). So, under the new measurement system, a koku now is approximately 180 liters, or 1000 masu.

2011: Top Ten Wines Under $15

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

The start of a new year, 2012, nears and it is time for some reflection upon the past year, to remember and savor pleasant memories. At 2011 winds down, many in the media will publish their own lists of the best and worst of the past year, everything from books to movies to music. As usual, there will be plenty of lists, in magazines, newspapers and blogs, of the best and worst food, restaurants, wines and more. You will find Top Ten lists, Top 100 lists, and much more.

As I find some value in such lists, I will be posting some of my own Favorite Lists for 2011, covering food, wine, sake and spirits over the next few weeks. These lists should provide a comprehensive summary of the favorite items I have encountered this past year, allowing my readers to more readily locate such gems, my top recommendations.

For my first List of 2011, you will find my Top Ten Wines Under $15. This list includes wines that during the past year I have enjoyed very much and which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out for some particular reason above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I strongly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1)  2008 Quinta do Encontro Vinho Tinto ($9.99)
This Portuguese wine is made from the Baga grape, which is notoriously tannic, but this lush wine somehow avoids the heavy tannins. It possesses a tiny bit of Merlot but probably not enough to be the main reason why the tannins are tame. Whatever the reason, this is a value wine with plenty of character and intense flavors. Portugal is certainly producing a significant amount of value wines.

2)  2010 Esporão Defesa Rosé ($13.99)
I am a big fan of Rosé, and this Portuguese example, a blend of Syrah and Aragones (Tempranillo) really delivers. It is neither California nor French in style, rather possessed of its own unique identity. Dry, nice red fruit flavors, some complexity, and good acidity all combine in a compelling wine. It would be perfect for the summer, as well as for year round enjoyment. It is also very food friendly.

3)  2010 Casal Garcia Rosé Vinho Verde ($9.99)
Another Portuguese Rosé, this is also a Vinho Verde so it contains a light effervescence. It is a blend of three grapes you may never heard of before: Vinhão, Azal and Borracal. But that shouldn't dissuade you from this tasty and fun wine. With bright red fruit flavors, and a hint of sweetness, this should be very popular with many consumers.

4)  2010 Herdade do Esporão Duas Castas ($12.99)
This third choice from Portugal is white blend of Gouveio and Verdelho, two grapes which once were thought to be the same. It is an easy drinking wine, with an alluring nose, and a delicious taste of melon, tangerine, and pear with a mineral backbone. An excellent wine for seafood dishes, it indicates that Portugal is about more than just Port and red still wines.

5)  2009 Alente White ($9.99)
This is another compelling Portuguese white wine, a blend of Antão Vaz and Arinto, which impresses with its enticing aroma and taste. It has that exotic note which I often associate, and love, with Portuguese wines made from indigenous grapes. For the price, this is an excellent value due to its complexity and character. Plus, it is plain delicious.

6)  2009 Stadlmann Rotgipfler Anninger Classic ($14.99)
As for Austrian grapes, Gruner Veltliner and Zweigelt seem to get most of the publicity. They certainly make good wines, but there are some less common Austrian grapes which are also well worthy of attention. This producer understands this point and that is why they produce wines made from these rarer grapes. This Rotgipfler is an intriguing and tasty wine, that resembles a cross of Gruner and Gewurtztraminer, and one I strongly recommend. A delicious blend of fruit and spice.

7)  2009 Stadlmann Zierfandler Anninger Classic ($14.99)
From the same producer, this wine made from the Zierfandler grape is another worthy recommendation. This wine reminded me of a cross between Gruner and Riesling, and possessed some mild, sweet honey notes, as well as fruit and salty almond flavors. This wine should intrigue even the most jaded of wine lovers, and I want to try this grape from other producers.

8)  2009 Beyerskloof Chenin Blanc/Pinotage ($9.99)
This wine wins the prize for most unique blend I tasted during the past year. I have never seen any other producer blending Chenin Blanc and Pinotage before, and it might seem like an odd combination too many. But this producer successfully combines two of the most notable of South African grapes. Besides some tropical fruit flavors, there are underlying notes of strawberry with some herbal components. You would not guess that it contains Pinotage, but this white wine would remind you in some respects of the flavors you normally find in a red wine. For the price, this is a killer value.

9)  2009 Yellow+Blue Monastrell ($11.99)
For the third year in a row, Yellow+Blue has a wine on this list and this time it is for their newest wine, an organic, Spanish Monastrell, which is also one of my favorite grapes. This wine offers much for its low price, a wine of character and delicious flavors, including ripe plum and blueberry. It is an excellent choice for pairing with hearty meals, from burgers to pasta Bolognese. This producer has been maintaining its high quality, though I am still waiting for them to make a straw for their Tetra Paks.

10)  NV Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Amabile ($13.99)
When I was younger, I drank plenty of cheap Lambrusco and I am sure many others did the same. But, there is plenty of quality Lambrusco out there as well, and this is an inexpensive example of one. I had some of this for Thanksgiving, and it was a big hit. Bubbles, a bit of sweetness, rich red fruit flavors. It is very easy drinking and consumer friendly.

Reviewing my list, I realize that there are no U.S. wines on the list. For me, I usually have an easier time finding value wines elsewhere than in California. Most of the California wines which cost under $15 just don't seem to excite me as much as the same priced wines from elsewhere in the world. I also note that Portuguese wines dominate this list, occupying half of the ten spots. Though there was only one Portuguese wine on the list last year, I attended a few Portuguese wine events this year and found some delicious and exciting value wines. As I tell people often, if you want a good value wine under $10, then choose Portuguese.

Austria made a significant showing, occupying two spots, with two wines, by the same producer, made from less common grapes. Though Austria might not always jump to your mind when you think value wines, it is an overlooked region which you should consider. South Africa, Spain and Italy all occupy a single spot on the list, and you definitely can still find good value wines in these regions. In fact, you can find value wines all over the world, in every region, though some regions provide a greater range and diversity of value wines.

I have other recommendations for wines under $15 on my blog and you just have to search for them. There remain many good buys available in this price range, wines which exceed much of the common plonk out there. It is important to remember that though wine stores sell plenty of wines in this price range, not all of them are of equal value. Wines in this price range do not have to be one-dimensional wines that all taste the same. You can find wines of character and complexity, though you might need to spend a little more time seeking them out.

Wine blogs can help you in that regard, pointing out wines that you might not otherwise know about. Tasting the wines before you buy them is another way to find such values. Or simply ask your trusted wine store owner for advice and suggestions.

If you have some of your own recommendations for excellent wines under $15, please add them to the comments.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1)  The SHADE Foundation of America presents the fifth annual "Bubbles & Bites Gala" at The Ritz Carlton. The SHADE Foundation of America is a non-profit organization that aims to prevent skin cancer through education. The foundation has been dedicated to erad­i­cat­ing melanoma through the edu­ca­tion of chil­dren and the com­mu­nity in the pre­ven­tion and detec­tion of skin can­cer and the pro­mo­tion of sun safety since 2002. The Bubbles and Bites Gala is the SHADE Foundation's annual charity event during which guests will spend a festive evening enjoying dishes prepared by Boston's top chefs all the while sipping champagne, enjoying live music, and taking part in a holiday gift silent auction and raffle. This year's music will be provided by Boston's premier band, East Coast Soul.

This year's event, hosted by Curt and Shonda Schilling, will be emceed by Gail Huff (Senator Scott Brown's wife and former Channel 5 reporter).  Come support the cause to prevent skin cancer and enjoy a night filled with bubbles in the air and Boston's best bites prepared by chefs: Brian Poe of Poe's Kitchen at the Rattlesnake, Jason Santos of Blue Inc., Dante de Magistris of Restaurant dante, Gianni Caruso of Bricco, Todd Winer of The MET Back Bay, Fabian Ludwig of the Ritz Carlton Boston Common, Armand Toutaint of Turner Fisheries, and Benjamin Knack of The Bedford Village Inn. Salads will be provided by Olivia's Organics and desserts will be created by The Hard Rock Café.

When: Wednesday, December 7, from 6:30pm - 9:00 pm
Where: Ritz Carlton Boston Common, 10 Avery Street, Boston
Cost: Tickets to the event are $150 each, and can be purchased online by visiting www.shadefoundation.org.

2)  Chefs Chris Douglass and Nuno Alves of Tavolo have some big plans for the coming months.

Here’ is what’'s currently on the menu:
* The Sicilian Cooler: An Italianate cocktail made with blood orange liqueur
* Grilled Swordfish with preserved lemon risotto and spicy greens
* Pan-Seared Sweet Potato Gnocchi in orange butter
* Short Ribs with Gremolata over polenta with roasted root veggies
* Fennel and Apple Soup with chestnuts
* Braised Stuffed Squid w/ squid ink risotto, saffron-lobster brood

Here’s what’s going on over the next few weeks:

Tuesday, November 29 – and every Tuesday
Live music in the lounge by Ryan Beke from 6 to 9 PM
Wednesday, November 30 @ 7 PM
Pasta Tour travels to Lombardy $20 for three courses: pickled vegetable antipasti with salumi/gorgonzola picante/honey … Polenta Ravioli in Saffron Cream … Biscotti with Crema di Mascarpone
Sunday, December 11 @ 6 PM
A repeat of the previously sold out Progressive Dinner with diners trotting between Tavolo and Ashmont Grill for two courses of food and wine at each location. Costs $60 per person including wine
Saturday, December 17 @ 12 noon
Cooking class in the kitchen with Chris and Nuno, demonstrating how to pull off a gala holiday feast . $60 includes full luncheon with wine.
Friday, December 23
Why stop at The Feast of the Seven Fishes ? Our special, pre-Christmas menu tonight features more than a dozen celebratory, holiday fish and/or seafood dishes, served ala carte.
Saturday/Sunday, December 24/25
Tavolo will be closed.
Saturday, December 31
Tavolo means never having to park in Boston. Enjoy your evening and walk or T it home. Ala carte specials all night.
Upcoming for January 2012:
Private pasta-making classes, for groups of six or more, will be available beginning in January. Learn how to make gnocchi, ravioli, linguini and more. Bring your group to our Dorchester kitchen, or let one of our chefs come to yours. Two hours of hands-on fun; this is a terrific team-building exercise for businesses. Their gluten-free pasta will soon be available.

3)  On December 13, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host the Premier and Grand Cru wine dinner, a four-plus-course affair hosted by renowned wine writer Pierre Rovani. The menu will be presented as follows in the Park Square location’s striking 10,000 bottle wine cellar:

Hors D'Oeuvres
Butter-Poached Sea Scallops, Braised Curried Fennel, Buttery Brioche
Sherry-Braised King Crab Legs Tartlette, Roasted Garlic Aioli
Costa Rican Mahi Mahi Ceviche, Tostones, Lime Crème Fraîche
Paired with Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Riesling “Gueberschwihr,” Alsace, 2007

First Course
Maine Lobster Soup with garden vegetables, croutons
Paired with Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Grand Cru “Brand,” Alsace, 2007

Second Course
Pistachio and Caper Crusted Salmon with crab meat and herb mousse, preserved lemon and thyme sauce
Paired with Domaine Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Chenevottes,” Burgundy, 2009

Third Course
Roasted Duck Breast with buttermilk yukon gold potatoes, broccolini and mushroom ragout
Paired with Remoissenet Beaune Premier Cru “Grèves,” Burgundy, 2008

Cheese Course
Muenster, Époisses, Langres with fennel, cherry compote and grilled crostini
Paired with Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Grand Cru “Rangen de Thann,” Clos St.-Urbain, Alsace, 2008