Research & Sources for A History of Sake Brewing in the U.S.

Research & Source Notes for A History of Sake Brewing in the U.S.

First, please note that the original version of this article was posted in April 2015, and has seen multiple expansions/revisions over the years due to additional research. My research hasn't stopped so there will likely be additional expansions/revisions in the future.

Second, the information within this article has been gathered from over 200 sources, including newspapers, journals, books, websites, and more. Some articles I found were reprinted in multiple newspapers but I've only included the earliest publication of the article. I also have some additional sources which I haven't yet used, but will in the future.

Third, although all of this information is readily available to any diligent researcher, gathering all of the relevant information is a laborious and time consuming activity, which requires searching through many thousands of potential articles, especially in old newspaper archives. It takes much dedication and discipline to put together all of the tidbits of information into a coherent whole. However, I find it quite satisfying.

Fourth, the basic idea behind this article is to illuminate a history of Sake which hadn't been previously explored in any depth. It also hopes to correct some historical misconceptions, especially concerning the identity of the first U.S. Sake brewery. The article is also a way to pay homage to the numerous passionate people who contributed to producing Sake in the U.S. throughout our country's history.

Fifth, I'm proud that an earlier version of this history formed a foundation for a scholarly journal article in Japan.

Sixth, more research is certainly needed, and I'm continuing my own efforts. In addition, on-site research is warranted as well, such as visiting city and town halls and delving through their records.  If you possess any additional information about the history of Sake brewing in the U.S., please contact me.

NEWSPAPERS

Berkeley Daily Gazette
January 10, 1905; July 23, 1906 

The Capital
December 6, 1902

Chicago Tribune
August 7, 1941; June 30, 1980

Connorsville Daily Examiner (IN)
April 4, 1892

Decatur Daily Democrat (IN)
April 8, 1892

Evening Bulletin
June 16, 1896; December 14, 1897; April 6, 1898; August 1909; October 30, 1909

Evening Star
April 5, 1895; July 7, 1896; July 6, 1897

The Garden Island
April 23, 1918

The Hawaiian Gazette
June 16, 1896; January 31, 1902; September 8, 1905; June 30, 1908; November 4, 1913; August 14, 1917

The Hawaii Herald
October 11, 1918

Hawaii Tribune-Herald
November 8, 1918; April 6, 1920; December 24, 1921; January 2, 1935; February 5, 1935; April 4, 1935; May 14, 1935; May 24, 1935; December 20, 1938; May 1, 1940; April 9, 1950

The Hawaiian Star
June 16, 1896; March 21, 1905; April 28, 1908; July 10, 1908; February 13, 1909

Hilo Daily Tribune
May 17, 1918; March 7, 1919; July 24, 1921

The Honolulu Advertiser
July 9, 1908; September 5, 1908; November 16, 1908; January 8, 1909; January 27, 1909; September 22, 1913; April 28, 1914; April 11, 1916; June 8, 1916; July 6, 1916; August 6, 1918; March 3, 1919; March 4, 1919; March 5, 1919; August 4, 1920; December 19, 1928; January 26, 1934; February 10, 1934; February 16, 1934; February 22, 1934; October 27, 1934; May 18, 1937; January 14, 1938; June 30, 1939; August 28, 1945; June 20, 1948; November 14, 1948; April 19, 1961; September 18, 1961; December 1, 1961; January 1, 1962; September 8, 1967; December 13, 1968; January 17, 1971; November 16, 1978

Honolulu Ke Alakai O Hawaii
February 18, 1937

Honolulu Republican
August 1, 1901

The Honolulu Star-Advertiser
February 7, 1904; May 27, 1904

Honolulu Star-Bulletin
November 23, 1912; December 31, 1912; May 5, 1913; March 23, 1914; December 31, 1914; September 24, 1915; February 14, 1916; March 2, 1916; July 8, 1916; August 10, 1917; August 13, 1917; August 29, 1917; September 12, 1917; September 20, 1917; October 29, 1917; March 5, 1918; March 8, 1918; March 9, 1918; April 10, 1918; April 13, 1918; May 9, 1918; June 13, 1918; May 24, 1921; December 19, 1928; September 2, 1933; January 27, 1934; February 14, 1934; February 19, 1934; February 21, 1934; September 21, 1934; October 26, 1934; December 7, 1934; January 9, 1935; February 27, 1935; November 30, 1935; December 9, 1935; September 28, 1937; November 7, 1939; August 22, 1941; June 19, 1948; September 15, 1952; January 19, 1957; December 2, 1959; April 19, 1961; August 14, 1967; September 22, 1967; February 18, 1969; March 29, 1976

The Independent
March 6, 1897

The Inter Ocean (IL)
April 5, 1892

Kawai Shinpo
May 28, 1940

La Verne Leader (CA)
September 24, 1970

Las Vegas Sun
May 8, 1969

Los Angeles Herald
April 6, 1895; August 18, 1895; July 26, 1901; November 22, 1905; July 12, 1906; May 19, 1908; October 9, 1908;  February 11, 1909; June 26, 1909

Mariposa Gazette
June 3, 1905

The Maui News
July 18, 1908

New York Daily Herald
June 27, 1854

Nichebei Shinbun
May 26, 1934; September 10, 1934

Oak Park Times (IL)
November 19, 1901

Oakland Tribune
February 20, 1906; September 21, 1907

Oregon City Banner Courier
March 30, 1922

Oxnard Press Courier (CA)
April 7, 1965

The Pacific Commercial Advertiser
June 16, 1896; March 6, 1897; April 6, 1898; January 29, 1908; September 5, 1908; January 8, 1909; January 27, 1909

Pacific Rural Press
March 14, 1896; June 20, 1896

Pittsburg Dispatch
April 7, 1892

Pittsburgh Daily Post
September 13, 1854

The Press Democrat
November 27, 1945

Reading Eagle
March 3, 1971

Rochester Daily Republican (IN)
April 7, 1892

Sacramento Daily Union
February 18, 1856; July 31, 1897

San Diego Union
July 15, 1934

San Dimas Press (CA)
October 9, 1968

San Francisco Call
November 16, 1894; June 28, 1896; July 20, 1901; August 13, 1901; February 26, 1904; May 27, 1904; July 8, 1904; March 17, 1905; June 2, 1905; June 7, 1905; May 24, 1906; July 11, 1906; December 12, 1906; February 3, 1907; November 12, 1907; January 9, 1908; January 31, 1908; April 16, 1908; April 28, 1908; May 8, 1908; May 13, 1908; May 19, 1908; December 1, 1908;  March 22, 1909; January 4, 1910; December 18, 1910; January 23, 1911; June 6, 1911

San Francisco Chronicle
January 16, 1915; November 26, 1942

The San Francisco Examiner
March 24, 1918; March 30, 1979

The Seattle Star
March 14, 1921

The Times-Picayune
March 13, 1856

The Tribune
February 28, 1971

Wailuku Maui News
October 8, 1941

Weekly National Intelligencer
November 5, 1853

The Weekly Star (NC)
April 15, 1892

JOURNALS

American Brewers' Review
Volume 20, January 1, 1906; Volume 23, January 1, 1909; Volume 29, January 1915; Volume 31, January 1917

Merck’s Report
Vol.14, 1905

BOOKS

American Breweries II by Dale P. Van Wieren (1995)

It Came from Berkeley: How Berkeley Changed the World by Dave Weinstein (2008)

History of Alameda County, California, Vol.2 (1883)

Prisoners of War: Archaeology, Memory, and Heritage of 19th- and 20th-Century Mass Internment edited by Harold Mytum & Gilly Carr (2012)

The Food of Paradise: Exploring Hawaii's Culinary Heritage by Rachel Laudan (1996)

Voices from the Canefields: Folksongs from Japanese Immigrant Workers in Hawai'i by Franklin Odo (2013)

Encyclopedia of Japanese American History by Japanese American National Museum (2000)

Japanese in America by E. Manchester Boddy (1921)

WEBSITES

http://www.oldbreweries.com

http://www.pre-pro.com/Edmonson/pages/HSG92.html

http://www.japantownatlas.com/share/SanJose_Jtown_1940.pdf

http://evols.library.manoa.hawaii.edu/bitstream/handle/10524/604/JL31149.pdf

http://brucemobley.com/beerbottlelibrary/ca/sanfrancisco/japan.htm

http://www.gekkeikan.co.jp/pdf/brochure_english.pdf

http://www.nichibei.org/2014/09/book-sheds-light-on-san-jose-japantowns-rich-history-and-culture/

http://www.sanjoseca.gov/DocumentCenter/View/26304

http://www.sanjoseinside.com/2006/01/30/beer_making_in_san_jose_part_one/

http://www.soyinfocenter.com/pdf/146/JAD.pdf

http://www.economist.com/node/151984

https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/jrbh2004/21/0/21_0_33/_pdf

2017: Favorite Restaurants & My Top 50

What were some of my favorite restaurants of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2017. I have already posted my Top Ten Wine lists, Favorite Wine-Related Items, Favorite Spirits, Sake, Cocktails & Drink-Related Items, & Top Ten Favorite Restaurant Dishes, and now I want to address my Favorite Restaurants of the past year as well as my Top 50 Restaurants.

This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable restaurants I've experienced and/or posted about over the past year. You will even find a few Favorites from outside Massachusetts as I traveled a little bit this past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more Restaurant reviews, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Top Restaurant Experience: Sorry Boston, but this year the winner is located in New York City. My good friend, Adam Japko, introduced me to Torishin, a Yakitori paradise, where we sat at the chef's counter, watching the culinary magic happen in front of us. They specialize in chicken, though their other dishes, from Rosy Seabass to Kumomoto Beef, were excellent as well. They serve every part of the chicken, and each skewer was a marvel. I never expected to love chicken arteries like I did. They also have an excellent Sake and Shochu list, enhancing your dining experience. Service was superb and this restaurant earns my highest recommendation. The memories of this dinner will always remain with me.

Favorite Japanese Restaurant: My dining experience at Pabu, a Japanese restaurant located in Boston's Millennium Tower, was close to being one of my top restaurant experiences of the past year. The Omakase consisted of nine courses of Nigiri Sushi and Seafood, and each course was beautifully presented and absolutely delicious, with incredibly fresh seafood. Some of the best sushi I've tasted. Their Sake list is voluminous, with plenty of great choices, including numerous ones you won't find at other local restaurants. Excellent service, a beautiful interior, and a menu of plenty of diversity. I very much want to return to explore more of their menu as I'm sure I'll find much to delight me and tantalize my palate.

Favorite Runner-Up Japanese Restaurant: While exploring the growing culinary scene in Quincy with Kerry Byrne, I was thoroughly impressed by Fuji at West of Chestnut, a Japanese restaurant which is part of an Asian restaurant group with other locations in cities like Boston and Somerville. The cuisine was creative and delicious, aesthetically pleasing and fun. The Fried Whole Fish with Black Bean Sauce was a sublime dish. Though their Sake list is small, they have some excellent options. They even had a very cool private dining area, which has Boston its own kitchen for small groups. Quincy has plenty of interesting restaurants, and Fuji is definitely one of the highlights.

Favorite Portuguese Restaurant: Though I don't get down to Fall River much, I really need to return to Terra Nostra, a killer Portuguese restaurant to which the good people of LGL Imports introduced me. From Chouriço a Bombeiro (flaming chorizo), to Cow's Leg Stew, from Lapas Grelhadas (grilled limpets), to Roasted Rabbit, the food was compelling, much of it excellent, hearty comfort food. They also have an extensive list of Portuguese wines, so many good choices at affordable prices. And the experience was enhanced by all the fine people who dined with me.

Favorite New Spanish Restaurant: Open for less than two months, Matadora is a Spanish Tapas restaurant located in the Hilton Boston/Woburn hotel and it has made a strong initial impression. With compelling dishes like Basque Street Corn to Flaming Chorizo, the tapas choices are strong, delicious and ample for the concept. Their wine list has plenty of interesting Spanish wines, including some Sherry, and their cocktails are creative and tasty. The restaurant has a cool and comfortable look, with a huge metal bull sculpture as a centerpiece. I'm looking forward to my next visit to explore more of the menu.

Favorite New Fast Casual Restaurant: I'm a huge fan of Committee, the Greek restaurant in the Fan Pier area, so I was excited when I learned they would be opening Gre.co, a Greek fast casual place specializing in Gyros and Loukoumades. I wasn't disappointed a single bit. Everything is fresh, from the meats which marinate for 24 hours, to the grilled pitas. I love their Lamb Gyro, which is packed with delicious fillings, and their crisp, hand-cut fries are topped by Feta! And the Loukoumades, Greek donuts are an addictive dessert, hot, soft and available with a variety of toppings, from chocolate to nuts. When I'm on Newbury Street, it's hard not to stop here.

Favorite New Chinese Restaurant: Hunan cuisine is not easy to find in the Boston area but the new Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, in Kendall Square, offers a number of traditional Hunan dishes, as well as some of their own takes on other Chinese dishes. I was enamored with dishes such as the succulent Mala Duck, Jimmy's Crab Bao and their take on General Tso's Chicken. Their more traditional dishes are also excellent, from the Sumiao Shang Gan to Grandma's Pork. They also have a good cocktail program, including several Baijiu cocktails which are very difficult to find in the local area. Check them out for lunch or dinner.

Favorite New Indian Restaurant: The Maya Indian Grill is a welcome addition to Wakefield, providing fresh, from scratch Indian cuisine, including regional dishes from Kashmiri, Punjabi, Bengali, Malabar, Goan and Madras. Their Lamb Samosas may be the best I've ever tasted and I was impressed with the layers of flavors in dishes like their Lamb Vindaloo and Chicken Lagan. And they make excellent Indian breads, which to a bread lover like me is so appealing. They have a lunch buffet and even offer delivery.

Favorite New Seafood Restaurant: It was exciting when the Burlington location of Island Creek Oyster Bar opened, making it even easier for me to visit this superb seafood restaurant. The Burlington location is aesthetically appealing, with special rooms for private groups, and the food & drink are as delicious as the Boston location. Wine director Laura Staley has created a unique and diverse wine list which well complements the cuisine. All of their food, from the Raw Bar to their Tuna Melt, is delicious and service is always impeccable. Seafood is such a healthy food, and everyone needs to eat more, so you all should be dining here.

Runner-Up Favorite New Seafood Restaurant: Another new seafood restaurant, Mooncusser Fish House, is offering some compelling choices. Their wine list is compelling, diverse and interesting, with plenty of classic wines, from Bordeaux to Barolo, while also celebrating less common wines, from Spanish Txakoli to Greek Moschofilero. Their cuisine is also interesting and delicious, with a killer Seafood Chowder. The restaurant is actually divided into two parts, a more casual eatery downstairs and a high-end location upstairs. I need to get back to check out more of their menu.

Favorite Restaurant with a Chef Change: As I mentioned earlier, I'm a huge fan of Committee and they had a chef change this year, hiring a new Chef de Cuisine, Theo Tsilipanos. Chef Theo is a native of the Greek city of Lamia, and even owned a restaurant there for about eight years. He has brought his own culinary skills and knowledge to Committee, making some changes to their menu, but they have been positive, maintaining the same level of quality and innovation as the prior chef. Changing one's chef can be risky but Committee had a win with the addition of Chef Theo and it remains a favorite spot.

Runner-Up Favorite Restaurant with a Chef Change: Chopps American Bar & Grill, located at the Burlington Marriott Hotel, also hired a new Executive Chef, Steve Zimei. Chef Steve began his culinary career working for Chef Daniel Bruce and eventually worked in a number of other local restaurants before returning to work for Chef Bruce at Chopps. Their food remains at a high level of quality, without an iota of diminishment. Some changes have obviously come to the menu but the new dishes are creative and delicious. My admiration for this restaurant continues.

Favorite New Unique Cuisine Restaurant: It appears to be a one-of-a-kind restaurant in Massachusetts, the only one dedicated to Moldovan cuisine. The Moldova Restaurant in Newton offers tasty and comforting Moldovan cuisine and also Moldovan wines. Though the names of the dishes sound unfamiliar, like Plăcinte la Tigaie and Mititei Moldovenesti, the food itself will bring to mind Eastern European favorites. I was quite taken with their cuisine, even their amazing Chicken Soup, and it was well complemented by their wines. This unique restaurant is something you need to experience and I'm sure you'll be a convert after your meal.

Favorite Pizza/Pasta Restaurant: Once again Ciao! Pizza & Pasta makes my Favorites list. Though I haven't dined there are often as usual, my experiences have remained consistent. Great food, from their wood-fired pizzas to their house-made pasta dishes. Prices are very reasonable considering the quality and quantity of food you receive. The owners, Edson Coimbra and Chef Marvin Posada, are the nicest and most genuine of people. I've brought many people here and everyone who has accompanied me has loved the place. If you haven't dined here yet, you need to make a New Year's resolution to immediately remedy that.

Favorite New York Lunch Restaurant: When I travel to New York City, I nearly always find a way to have lunch at Momofuku Ssäm Bar, though I've actually never had dinner there. Their Rotisserie Duck is amazing, so tender and flavorful with a crispy chive pancake. However, the rest of their menu is also excellent, such as their scrumptious steamed buns. They also have an interesting wine list and I'm never disappointed when I dine here. Plus, after lunch, I can walk across the street to their Milk Bar for a sweet treat.

Favorite Chicago Restaurants: On a short, whirlwind visit to Chicago, Adam Japko and I packed in plenty of restaurant visits and my top three includes QXY Dumplings, Slurping Turtle, and Motomaro. QXY Dumplings, located in Chinatown, specializes in dumplings, with about 40 different types, and they are all basically soup dumplings. Delicious comfort food and you can even watch the kitchen staff making the dumplings. Slurping Turtle is a ramen spot, but their Duck Fat Fried Chicken is a decadent wonder. This is another comfort food spot, which also has a large selection of Japanese whiskey. Motomaro is a high-end Japanese spot with a large and diverse menu, each dish delicious and creative. Plus, they have a nice Sake list as well as plenty of intriguing cocktails. Chicago is definitely a great food city.

The Passionate Foodie's Top 50 Restaurants
     In addition to the Favorites listed above, I've compiled a list of my own Top 50 Restaurants, those Massachusetts places where I'm sure to always have a delicious meal, whether a casual breakfast or a high-end French dinner. These are the places I seem to recommend the most to others, including some places where I dine on a regular basis. Many of these places have been listed on prior Favorite Lists, some for multiple years, and are all worthy of recognition and recommendation. There are also some new Favorites, places I only recently encountered but which I know I will be returning frequently. Please note that this is not a list of the "Best" Boston-area restaurants, but my own personal favorites. There are plenty of other excellent restaurants in the area and just because a place is not on my list doesn't mean I wouldn't recommend it.

Beverly
A&B Burgers

Boston
Asta
Bistro du Midi
Committee
Dumpling Cafe
Erbaluce 
Gre.co
L'Espalier 
Myers & Chang
Nebo
Oishii 
Pabu
Prezza
Select Oyster Bar
Taranta
Troquet

Brookline
Taberna de Haro

Burlington
The Bancroft
Besito
Chopps American Bar & Grill
Island Creek Oyster Bar
Sichuan Gourmet

Cambridge
BISq
Craigie on Main
Little Donkey
Puritan & Co.
Sumiao Hunan Kitchen
Tampopo

Chelsea
Ciao! Pizza & Pasta

Fall River:
Terra Nostra

Ipswich
Clam Box

Medford
Bistro 5
Tasty On The Hill

Newton
Moldova Restaurant

Quincy
Fuji at West of Chestnut

Saugus
Iron Town Diner

Somerville
Bergamot 
Bronwyn
Dali
The Painted Burro
Posto
Saloon
Tasting Counter

Stoneham
Fusion Taste
Taste of Siam

Wakefield
The Porch

Waltham
Osteria Posto

Woburn
Gene's Chinese Flatbread Cafe
Matadora
WuBurger

What were some of your favorite restaurants this year?

Eating & Drinking In Chicago: One Dinner, Three Restaurants

On one evening in Chicago, we decided to do a bit of a restaurant crawl for dinner, visiting three different restaurants, all located within roughly a block or so of each other. Sure, we could have dined at just one place, but as we only had two evenings in Chicago, we wanted to experience as much as possible. The three restaurants were located in the Fulton Market neighborhood, which seems to be filled with many different restaurants, making it easy to walk from spot to spot.

We began our culinary journey at Leña Brava, a Rick Bayless restaurant which specializes in the cuisine of Baja California Norte. What initially intrigued me about this place was their drinks list, which includes over 30 Mexican wines from the Valle de Guadalupe, as well as a huge Mezcal list. In the photo above, you can see some of those Mezcal bottles displayed on one of the walls. I enjoyed a glass of the exquisite Pierde Almas Tobala Mezcal, and was also impressed with one of their cocktails, the delicious Negroni-ish, made with Siete Misterios Doba Yej mezcal, pineapple and cinnamon infused Aperol, and Carpano Antica.

Their Food Menu is essentially broken down into two sections, Ice & Fire, cold and hot dishes, and we chose to concentrate on the Ice section. The Ice sections is broken down into Oysters & Uni, Aguechiles, Ceviches, Cocteles, Laminados, and Salads. Their website states: "Our seafood is sourced from sustainable fisheries and environmentally responsible aquaculture enterprises." That is always an important element to see in a restaurant.

The Uni, Scallion pancakes, Oaxacan Pasilla ($27) is created with West Coast sea urchin, scallion-sesame corn masa pancakes, Oxacan papilla crema, pickled Klug Farm peaches (Szechuan pepper), tobiko, and baby corn. This was tasty, with a nice blend of textures and flavors, from the creamy uni to the slightly crunchy peaches.

From the Aguachiles section, we ordered the Opah Watermelon ($15), Sashimi-grade West Coast Opah in a spicy-watermelon-chiltepin "broth" with savory grilled watermelon, tomatoes, cucamelons, and garlic chive oil. This was the best of the three dishes we ordered, with silky opah, enhanced by the sweetness of the watermelon, with acidity from the tomatoes and a bit of tang from the garlic chive oil.

The Scallop Ceviche Al Pastor ($18) is made from Hudson Canyon diver scallops, a limey ceviche "broth" with flavors of tacos al pastor, crispy chorizo crumble, crunchy jicama & carrots, pineapple, and cilantro. This is definitely a very different ceviche, and the crunchy jicama and carrots just didn't work for me with this dish. Though the flavors were good, it was texturally where this dish failed me, or at least my perceptions of how a ceviche should be.

Our favorite restaurant of the three was clearly Motomaro, an amazing Japanese restaurant that impressed us on so many levels. It is a higher-end restaurant, large and elegant, and we sat at the medium-sized bar. Of course we had to order Sake and the OneTen Purple Yamahai Junmai Ginjo was an excellent choice, a compelling Sake made by a female toji. It was full bodied and crisp, with a mild earthiness and plenty of umami. And it paired very well with the various dishes we ordered.

The food menu is expansive and everything sounds so good that it might be difficult for you to select what you will eat. Based on the four dishes we enjoyed, I don't think you can go wrong with whatever you order. The quality of the food is top-notch, and each dish is carefully and artfully composed and balanced.

The Gyuniku Udon ($18) is made with aged Carlisle family beef, chili beef fat, futo udon, and sesame. The beef is at the bottom of the dish, and came to the top once we mixed up the noodles. The noodles were cooked perfectly, with just the right texture, and the beef was tender and flavorful, with just a touch of spicy heat. Excellent comfort food and a fine start to our visit.

The Live Dungeness Rice ($28) is prepared with dungeness crab, uni, ikura, and split peas. An intriguing melange of textures and flavors, this was another delicious dish with plenty of sweet crab, creamy uni and a bit of green. With each bite, you craved more and more.

Though I'm usually not a big fan of tofu, there have been exceptions. The Age Dashi Tofu ($14), of which I don't have a photo, is created with house tofu, chanterelle mushrooms, and broccoli rabe. The fried tofu was delicious, with a crispy fried coating and a firm tofu texture within, all within an intriguing and flavorful sauce, enhanced by the umami of the mushrooms.

The Simmering Pork Curry Croquettes ($19) is a panko fried rice croquette made with heritage pork. The only minor issue is that the name of the dish indicates multiple croquettes when you actually receive just one. However, it is a large croquette, and reminds me more of a flatter version of  aracini because it is made from rice. A great crunchy exterior, with savory pork within, and a delicious sauce with a great depth of flavor.

Overall, Motomaro receives my highest recommendation. Service was excellent, the food was killer, and their drinks program has plenty of interest.

Our third and final stop was at Duck Duck Goat, part of Chef Stephanie Izard's culinary empire. Duck Duck Goat is stated to be "reasonably authentic Chinese food" and we had to wait a short time before we could get a seat at the bar. By this point, I'd stopped taking photos and was just enjoying the food and drink we ordered.

We started with Jiaozi, beef short rib and bone marrow potstickers, which were incredibly savory, with that powerful tang of bone marrow and plenty of silky short rib. The Pork Fried Rice, made with jasmine and sweet red rice, grilled pork belly and sausage, was certainly much better than the fried rice you find at most Chinese spots. There was a delicious depth of flavor, plenty of tender and delicious pork, and some nice textural elements. My favorite dish of our visit was the Char Siu Bao, a steamed barbecue pork bun, and honestly it was probably the best I've ever tasted. There was plenty of tender pork, bursting with flavor, within the soft and fluffy bun. Great comfort food.

I would like to return to Duck Duck Goat and explore more of their menu. I can easily understand why they get such large crowds, even on a Wednesday evening.

Eating & Drinking in Chicago: Income Tax to Estereo

While shopping at a wine & spirits store in Chicago, we received a recommendation for a nearby wine bar & restaurant, Income Tax, which was only a couple buildings away. Although we already had dinner plans elsewhere, we had a little free time before our reservation so we chose to stop by Income Tax for a drink and a quick bite. We were very fortunate that we made that stop as Income Tax turned out to be an impressive spot.

Located in the Edgewater neighborhood, Income Tax is less than a year old, having opened last December. The restaurant is owned by Nelson Fitch, who is joined by Collin Moody, General Manager, and Chef Ryan Henderson. Interestingly, Nelson is the husband of Veronica Roth, author of the dystopian Divergent series, which was turned into a film series. During our visit, as we sat at the bar, we met Collin, who was personable and knowledgeable.

The restaurant is cozy and elegant, with a lengthy bar and a casual, welcoming vibe. We sidled up to the bar and checked out the drinks menu, which immediately impressed with its diversity. There were seven wines by the glass ($11-$14), almost all French wines, and included a Pet-Nat. There were also four Sherries by the glass ($9-$14) and four Georgian wines that were on special. The bottle list has plenty of interesting choices from all over the world, most sure to interest wine lovers, including many classics but also some hot, new wines, and most were reasonably priced from $50-$100.

They also have a diverse list of Beers and 13 Ciders, including Spanish, French, German and U.S. ciders. Their Spirits list is also diverse and fascinating, and you won't find many of the usual suspects but rather you'll find more small production, artisanal and unique bottlings. You'll also find several Vermouth cocktails as well as other intriguing cocktails. There is so much on their drinks menu to interest an imbiber.

I began with a glass of the Emilio Hidalgo La Panesa Especial Fino Sherry ($14), an amazingly delicious and interesting Fino which is an average of 15 years old. As it has undergone a slight oxidation, the color is more golden. It was rich and full bodied, with a saline element as well as notes of brioche and almonds. During our time at the bar, Collin also offered us complimentary tastes of two other Sherries, the Yuste Manzanilla and the González Byass Tio Pepe En Rama, 2016. Both were delicious in their own right, thrilling a Sherry lover like myself. I also later ordered a glass of the Navazos-Palazzi Ron Oloroso Cask ($16), which I've previously reviewed.

The Food Menu is small but varied, touching on various European cuisines, from Spain to Alsace. The Menu is divided into Bites (4 choices, $4-$10), from Marinated Olives to Strangolapreti (spinach & ricotta dumplings); Jars (3 choices, $10-$12), from Boquerones to Rillettes; Cheese (3 choices, $6-$8); Appetizers (5 choices, $6-$15), from Flammenkuchen to Tortilla Espanola;
and Entrees (5 choices, $15-$25), from Trout Meuniere to Coq au Vin. Much of this is excellent bar food, a fine accompaniment to their varied drinks.

We ordered the Pan Con Tomate ($6), a traditional Spanish dish, made with Saffron toast and Fino Sherry. There was a tomato gelatin-like topping and overall, the dish worked very well, a nice blending of soft and crusty bread with the bright acidity of the tomatoes and the subtle saffron elements. And with a glass of Sherry, it was a superb pairing.

We also opted for a Jar of the Whipped Chèvre ($10), made with sun gold tomatoes and tarragon, and accompanied by home-made bread. As an ardent bread lover, this fresh and soft bread, was delicious and I could have enjoyed it on its own. But, the whipped chèvre was creamy and flavorful, enhanced by the tomatoes, and made for a great spread. It was the type of tasty item which makes you want to lick the jar clean.

These were both relatively simple dishes, but they were executed perfectly, indicative of a skilled kitchen. They certainly made me crave to try some of their entrees, to see that culinary skill on a grander scale. I'd also love to return to try more items from their drinks menu. This is the type of neighborhood spot I would become a regular if it were located close to me. It earns a high recommendation.

Collin of Income Tax also highly recommended that we later check out Estereo, a bar in the Logan Square region, and his recommendation was spot on. During the day, the bar serves coffee and snacks, but at night, it is a full-scale bar, specializing in spirits from Mexico, Central America, and South America. We visited the bar after our dinner. The bar is triangular shaped, open to the street, and Latin American music sets up the lively atmosphere.

The Drinks menu was fascinating and compelling, offering more varieties of Mexican, Central American, and South American spirits than I have ever seen elsewhere. The lengthy list of Pisco, Cachaca, Tequila, Mezcal, and Rum, was mind-boggling. I could spend many a night exploring this list, gaining a deeper appreciation for these spirits. I've never seen another bar with over 25 Pisco on their list. And there was so much wonderful Mezcal!

Of course they create a variety of cocktails ($9-$12) from all of these spirits, such as the Pisco, made with Seedling Farms Rhubarb, Cocchi Americano, Lime, Pina Bitters and Force Carbonated; Agricole, made with Agricole Coconut, Passion Fruit, Absinthe, Lime and Blackstrap; and Rum, made with Paranubes Auguardiente de Cana, Klug Farms Blueberrt, house Falernum, Lime and Frutabomba Bitters. We began the evening with a few cocktails, and they were all delicious, well balanced, and had interesting flavor combinations.

The bartenders were personable, knowledge and very helpful, answering any questions and providing recommendations. So, it was a great place not only to enjoy a great drink but to learn something as well.

At the end of our evening, as we prepared to leave, one of the bartenders came over and offered us a complimentary drink of Mezcal Vago Tobala en Barro, a rare and superb Mezcal, which was distilled in olla de barro, clay pots. This was an especially nice gesture and the Mezcal was a fantastic way to cap the evening.

If you love Pisco, Cachaca, Tequila, Mezcal, or Rum, then this is the bar you need to visit. If you just love intriguing and quality spirits and cocktails, then this is the bar you need to visit. This is a bar where passion is more than evident and it is also simply a fun place to drink and hang out. Highly recommended.

Eating & Drinking In Chicago: Ramen to Duck Fat Fried Chicken

Our second lunch in Chicago was also at an Asian spot, the Slurping Turtle, a ramen restaurant that was established by famed Chef Takashi Yagihashi. Their website states the restaurant is intended to "... recreate for our guests Chef Takashi's childhood culinary experiences in Japan, the essence of Japanese Comfort Food. The turtle is a symbol of longevity in Japan. We invite you to join us in our quest for the Everlasting Noodle." It is a medium-sized restaurant, with some communal tables, a bar, and a second floor dining area. It has a casual and comfortable ambiance, perfect for the idea of comfort food.

The restaurant has a decent-sized Sake list, with options by the glass and bottle, with some interesting choices, and we opted for a 200ml can of the Nihon Sakari Nama Genshu Honjozo, a full-bodied and fresh Sake with lots of delicious umami, making it an excellent pairing with our various dishes.

When I later left the restaurant, I also noticed that they have a killer selection of Japanese whiskey atop their bar, including a couple 17 and 21 year old whiskies. If I had more time, I would have stopped at the bar to check out and taste some of their selections. It was an impressive array and if you love Japanese whiskey, the Slurping Turtle has you covered.

Their food menu has plenty of options, including: Snacks ($4-$11), such as Bao, Edamame and Beef Short Rib; Sashimi & Maki Rolls (most $8-$15); and Ramen/Rice Bowls ($14-$16). We started with the Hamachi Tacos ($11), a tartare of yellowtail with truffle-soy, set into a taro root shell. Plenty of bright citrus flavors, silky fish, with an umami kick and a crunchy shell with a mild vegetal taste. Delicious and nicely balanced.

We also ordered the Eel & Cucumber Roll ($9), which I failed to photograph, and it presented eight pieces of tasty eel rolls with the added crunch and juiciness of the cucumber, with a savory barbecue-like sauce. It was aesthetically pleasing as well as pleasing to the palate.

Wow!! The Duck Fat Fried Chicken ($9), with a salad, was amazing. Each chicken chunk, which was on the bone, was crusted in a crunchy, delectable coating which will haunt your palate. And the chicken itself was succulent and flavorful, making for a killer combo with the coating. Duck fat certainly is a great way to fry many things, like French fries, and with this chicken, it elevated it to another level. If you go to the Slurping Turtle, you MUST get an order of this fried chicken as it is just so damn tasty. One of my favorite dishes from my time in Chicago.

The Pork Belly Bao ($4 each or 3 for $11) was a very good choice, with plenty of tender and flavorful pork belly. A fine snack with a glass of Sake or Japanese whiskey.

The restaurant serves a variety of Ramen dishes, such as Classic Tokyo Shoyu, Tan Tan Ramen, and Shoyu Tofu Mushroom, with plenty of choices for extra toppings. The Spicy Miso Tonkotsu ($15) is a spicy dish, made with chicken, buttered corn, bamboo shoots, bean sprouts, woodear mushrooms, and scallions. It was delicious, with plenty of umami, buttery notes, tender chicken, and a beautiful depth of flavor. Everything you want in a ramen.

If I return to Chicago, I will certainly return to the Slurping Turtle. It impressed me in a number of ways, and that Duck Fat Fried Chicken will remain in my memory for many years to come. It earns my highest recommendation.

Eating & Drinking In Chicago: Soup Dumplings to Pork Belly Cookies

A whirlwind two-day journey to Chicago provided me with plenty of evidence that the city is an excellent place for food & drink. I'm also sure that I only scratched the surface and should return soon to explore further, to seek out more culinary depths in Chicago. Adam Japko and I were in the city to conduct a presentation on Design & Georgian Wine and took advantage of our down time to eat and drink our way across the city.

Our first stop, for lunch, was at QXY Dumplings, located in Chinatown. It's official name is Qing Xiang Yuan, which roughly translates as "far fragrance," and it is well known for its multitude of dumplings, roughly 40 varieties. It is a medium-sized spot, very clean and comfortable, with two large screens showing how the dumplings are created. On a Tuesday afternoon it was relatively quiet though I've heard that weekends are packed, with a line extending out the door.

At the rear of the restaurant, you can watch skilled women hand-crafting the various dumplings. On the menu, there are plenty of dumplings choices for nearly any preference, including fillings such as beef, pork, chicken, seafood, and vegetable, each priced at $9-$14 for a dozen. Unfortunately, you can only order the dumplings by the dozen. I would prefer if they offered smaller sizes, such as a half-dozen, so I could experience more of the different fillings. So, it can be beneficial to go with a large group, which gives you a better opportunity to taste more dumplings.

What also elevates these dumplings is that each one contains a bit of "soup," a juicy burst which might catch you unawares if you don't realize it is inside the dumpling. The menu doesn't mention this juicy burst so I'm sure plenty of first timers didn't know of this fact until biting into one of the dumplings. They don't resemble traditional soup dumplings so you likely wouldn't expect the juicy burst, but once you know, you'll love it! Just be more careful on your initial bite into the dumpling.

Their menu also offers a small amount of Barbecue Skewers and Appetizers, from Lamb Kebab to Chicken Hearts, from Spicy Kimchi to Red Oil Pig Ears. We ordered a plate of Shredded Kelp in Sauce ($5.00), which is a little like a very al dente pasta, with a taste of the sea.

The Lamb & Coriander Dumplings ($9.99) were excellent, with a thin dumpling skin, plenty of savory lamb and a burst of liquid umami. You can see how plump they were, and each was spiced well, making it easy to finish off the dozen.

The Pork & Mushroom Dumplings ($8.99) weren't as aesthetically pleasing as the lamb ones but they were equally as tasty, with the liquid umami enhanced by the natural umami of the mushrooms. It would have been easy to keep ordering more dumplings until we were ready to burst but we wanted to leave some room for eating at other spots.

If you are in Chicago, I highly recommend you check out QXY Dumplings. 

After lunch, we wandered around Chinatown, just checking out the various other restaurants, bakeries and shops. At one point, we stopped at the Saint Anna Bakery & Cafe and decided to get a couple of pork buns. However, we spied the above sign. Pork Belly Cookies??!! How could we resist, especially when one of the bakery staff raved about them. We bought one of the plastic containers of cookies and weren't disappointed.

It isn't easy to describe these cookies. The cookie itself is a little flaky with a bit of a sweet glaze, and they definitely have pieces of crunchy pork belly and fat within them. And the rich taste of the pork belly is more than evident, an intriguing blend of sweet and salty, both savory and dessert. This shouldn't be that surprising of a dessert considering that there are numerous desserts that add bacon. Plus, the combination of sweet and salty is a killer mix. Why doesn't a bakery in Boston's Chinatown make this type of cookie?