All About My Historical Food & Drink Articles

I've always been fascinated by history, delving into the past and learning about the origins of so many matters. Our historical origins can tell us much about the present, and sometimes even the future. As such, I've written numerous articles on my blog delving into the history and origins of a myriad of foods and drinks. During the pandemic, as restaurants closed and large-scale tasting events were canceled, I shifted to writing even more of these types of articles. I've haven't stopped writing these historical articles, and are always pondering the next topic to research.

These historical articles require much more time and effort, perusing through thousands of old newspapers and books, using a variety of research tools. However, all that work can be rewarding and satisfying when you uncover startlingly information that had laid hidden for many years. And you might be contributing to our increased knowledge of some food or drink topic. 

For example, I was once informed that the earliest known document referencing Pechuga Mezcal was from the 1950s. Through my own research though, I was able to uncover numerous older printed references, extending back to 1863. This was an amazing discovery, furthering our knowledge of this niche beverage. 

To help bring more visibility to all of my historical posts, 65+ articles so far, and to make it easier to find them, I've compiled all of the links into this single post. It will be a repository for all of these articles, and I'll update it when I write a new historical article. This should be helpful to my readers who want to delve deeper into the fascinating historical stories and origin tales that I've uncovered. 

With my original research, I've written some extensive articles, sometimes breaking new ground and unearthing new information. I've shattered a number of origin stories, the commonly accepted tales, proving that these origin tales weren't true. In some respects, these articles can be considered works in progress, as I try to update them whenever I engage in new research.

I'm working on other historical topics for future articles. I hope you enjoy and would love to hear feedback. 

You might want to begin your reading with this relevant Rant:

Rant: Be Skeptical of Food & Drink Origin Stories

My numerous articles on Boston's Chinatown and Chinese Cuisine have their own Compilation Page. You'll find links there to my Nine-Part series on the History of Boston's Chinatown, as well as a multi-part series on the History of Chinese Restaurants Outside Boston and in Connecticut. There's also articles on the Origin Tales of various items, from the Pu-Pu Platter to the Eggroll. There's enough information in all of these articles to fill an entire book (or two), which I hope to do one day.

Food-Related Articles

The Origin of the Steak Bomb

The Origins of the Frozen Drumstick & Nutty Buddy

Hummingbird Muffins: Some History

The Origins of Chicken Fried Steak

The Origins of Chicken Fingers: Traditional & Chinese

George Clemmons: Hot Dogs & Murder Accusations

Hot Dog Joe: From Simple Hot Dog Vendor to National Celebrity

The Origins of Spaghetti Alla Carbonara

National Whipped Cream Day: Its Origins, Aaron Lapin & Reddi-Wip

Rant: Candy Apple vs Caramel Apple (With Some History)

Hot-Dogs & Ketchup: A Historical Look

The Origins of Spam, the "Miracle Meat"

The Origins of American Goulash

The Origins of American Chop Suey

The Origins & Early History of Chess Pie

The Origins of ABC: Almond Boneless Chicken

Bringing Back a Thanksgiving Tradition: Doughnuts

The Mosaic Sandwich: The First Double Decker?

Two-part series on A History of the Club Sandwich

A Brief History of Rappie Pie in the U.S.

Some Balut History: Duck Eggs to Quail Eggs

The Origin of Fried Chicken & Waffles

Pizza History in the U.S. (Part 1)

The True Origins of Hawaiian Pizza

Pastitsio: A Short History of a Greek Classic

Origins of the Hamburger: The First 20 Years (Part 1)
Origins of the Hamburger: The Sandwich Appears (Part 2)
The Origin of Salisbury Steak: The Hot Water Cure & Meat Diet
The Origin of Jimmies aka Chocolate Sprinkles

Origins of Manhattan Clam Chowder

The Origins of Ceviche, Tempura and Fish & Chips

What's Traditional Shepherd's Pie: A Historical Look

Three-Part Water Doughnuts: Some Bagel History 

More on the Origin of the Everything Bagel

Revealed: The First American Sources About Carrot Cake

A History of Bacalhau: A Portuguese Staple

Restaurant-Related Articles

An Early History of Slade's Barbecue

Closed For Nearly 50 Years: A History of the Sahara Syrian Restaurant
The Nile: "The Most Famous Syrian Restaurant This Side of the Pyramids"
Early History of Greek Restaurants in Boston

The First Vietnamese Restaurants in the U.S.

A Short History of Peruvian Restaurants & Chifa in the U.S.

Drink-Related Articles

The Origins of the Orange Julius: Who Actually Invented It?

Tranquilo Prosecco: A Still Wine, Not Bubbly

The Origins of Frappes & Milk Shakes

A History of Vinho Verde in the U.S.

The Origins & Early History of White Port
Historical Tidbits About Shochu in the U.S.
A History of the Sherry Cobbler (19th century)
A History of the Sherry Cobbler (Early 20th century)
Moonshine? A History of Sotol in the U.S.

Two-Part Historical Tidbits About Baijiu: The World's Most Popular Spirit 

Krug Champagne: Early History in the U.S.

A Short History of Franciacorta in the U.S.

The Birth & Evolution of the Mai Tai

Animal Alcohol: Lamb Wine, Pigeon Blood Wine, Spirit of Goat & More

The Rise of Tequila in the 18th & 19th Centuries

An Expanded History of Pechuga Mezcal

Switchel: A Colonial Drink from Russell Orchards

Ikalto Academy in Georgia: The Oldest Winemaking School

The Alsatian Connection to Tequila

The Manhattan Cocktail: Then & Now (Part 1)

Three-Part An Early History of Champagne

Four-Part The Origins of Port

Five-Part History of Sherry

Sake-Related Articles

A History of Sake Brewing in the U.S. (Currently under contruction)

Historical Tidbits About Sake in the U.S.

A History of Sake Brewing in Brazil

Early History of Sake Brewing in British Colombia

Three-Part The Origins & History of Sake

The Italian Origin of Hawaiian Pizza!

Do you like pineapple on your pizza? This topping generates much passion, both for and against its inclusion on pizza. No other topping seems to cause such controversy. So, what led someone to first decide to add pineapple to a pizza, creating a Hawaiian Pizza?

In a previous article, I found evidence that Hawaiian Pizza existed since at least 1953, disputing the common myth that a Canadian invented Hawaiian pizza in 1962. I've continued my research and have made a blockbuster of a discovery, one which will shake the entire pizza world. Italians ate pineapple on their pizza back in the 19th century!

Pineapples are thought to have originated in South America, and Spanish explorers eventually brought the pineapple back to Europe, calling it piña. It is then said that the English added "apple" to its name, to connect it to the other delicious fruit they enjoyed. Pineapple became extremely popular throughout Europe, including Italy. Would Italians dare to add pineapple to pizza?

My pizza research led me to delve into some 19th century travelogues, all in Italian, and although I don't speak Italian, I simple searched those books for the word "ananas," which is the Italian term for "pineapple." Once I found some references, I then used online translation tools to decipher the passages that I found. Most of the references were irrelevant to my purposes and I almost stopped my researches, until I stumbled upon a fascinating source.

In La politica da Firenze a Napoli (Politics from Florence to Naples, 1880) by Carlo Collodi, there is a passage which roughly translates as, "As I wandered the narrow streets of Naples, I was tempted by an alluring aroma, which I thought might have been a bakery of sorts.....Within the tiny bakery, I conversed with the owner, Gepetto, who wore a strange yellow wig. He offered me a strange treat, pizza Napoletana, a circular bread topped by tomatoes and cheese and herbs....It was hot and delicious, and the strange combination was very pleasing....The second pizza was something he claimed was new but which had become very popular in the neighborhood. This pizza had thin slices of some type of salami atop it, and small yellow cubes which were unfamiliar to me. I learned these were pieces of pineapple and their sweetness was sheer joy."

Pineapple on pizza in 19th century Italy! It shouldn't seem that unusual. Pizza was a relatively new invention at that time and experimentation was probable. Why not add a popular fruit? I'll continue to seek more information about this matter but it will probably change how we view Hawaiian pizza, and maybe remove much of the disdain for it that exists. 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Experience Croatian wines at an upcoming Wine Pairing Dinner at Brasserie on Tuesday, April 5 at 6pm. Chefs Vince Carideo and Nick Intonti will be serving a five-course menu of Croatian-inspired small plates to pair with five Croatian wines. The founders of Croatian Premium Wine will be on-site to present the wines, share their origins, and help celebrate the rich culture of Croatian winemaking.

Menu
--Smoked Shellfish Salad (Escabeche, Citrus, plum)

Malvazija Istarska 2020 Fakin
--Wild Mushroom (Green garlic, Truffle, Creme Fraiche)

Teran 2017 Fakin, Il Primo
--Braised Rabbit (Red Wine, Polenta, Arrowhead Cabbage)

Plavac Mali Barrique 2016 Terra Madre
--Duck Confit Leg (Seared Breast, Cherry)

Plavac Mali 2016 Komarna 7
--Pot de Creme (Orange Blossom, Muscat grapes, Lavender)

Muskat Momjanski 2020 Kabola
Note: Menu is subject to change according to the chefs' discretion

The dinner costs $120 per person and Reservations can be made at Eventbrite.

2) Nightshade Noodle Bar is starting a new 5 Course Tasting Menu on Wednesday evenings for $50/per person. Normal dinner service will also be available on Wednesdays. The Wednesday Tasting menu will feature some "new hyper-seasonal, hella springy dishes" which Chef Rachel Miller has been creating, as well as some Nightshade staples. Their Beverage Director, Alex, will feature a few special bottles of wine to accompany the Tasting Menu. 

Chef Miller never posts or print their Tasting Menus, as they are intended to be blind), but she is making an exception for the Wednesday Tasting Menu. Every Wednesday morning, from 10am-11am, she will post the tasting menu on Instagram and Facebook, with a link to make Reservations. There are a limited amount of Reservations available each Wednesday so book early to guarantee a spot.  

SENA22: U.S. Seafood Statistics: From Wild Capture to Aquaculture

The latest issue of Urner Barry's Reporter (Spring 2002) presented their Annual Review of the State of the Seafood Industry. The issue provided some fascinating insight into the seafood industry, and allowed us to glimpse likely future trends. The issue was provided for free at the Seafood Expo North America (SENA).  

Some people rant about aquaculture, believing it's harmful and that farmed seafood doesn't taste as good as wild caught. To a large degree, they are mistaken and aquaculture is clearly the future of the seafood industry. Historically, about sixty years ago, in 1961, 95% of total seafood production in the U.S. was wild capture while only 5% involved aquaculture. However, the amount of aquaculture has grown every year since then, and now it is the majority.   

In 2013, the proportion of aquaculture exceeded wild capture for the first time, and currently total production is now 56% aquaculture and 44% wild capture. In 2019, wild capture declined 4.1% while aquaculture increased by 3.74%. It's believed that aquaculture in the coming years will grow by about 62%. 

During the past sixty years, the practice of aquaculture has improved in leaps and bounds, helping to resolve some of the earliest problems that occurred with aquaculture. The growth in improvement of aquaculture is stunning, far outstripping any gains in the farming of beef, pork, chicken, etc. Many aquaculture products have now been certified as sustainable by various organizations. It's time for people to eliminate their prejudices against farmed seafood. 

As for wild capture in 2020, total U.S. commercial landings were about 8.4 billion pounds, valued at $4.78 Billion, which was a decrease from the prior year of $818 Million. The top landed species, by volume, was Alaska Pollock, constituting about 3.2 Billion pounds, nearly 40% of the total. The rest of the Top 10 landings, by volume, included: Menhadens, Hake/Whiting, Pacific Cod, Yellowfin/Salmon, Sockeye Salmon, Pink Sole, Rockfish/Pacific Ocean Perch, Mackeral/Atka, and American Lobster. 

Pollock has become the "white fish" of choice in many prepared and frozen fish products, from fried fish sandwiches to frozen fish sticks.  

The top landed species, by value, was the American Lobster, constituting about $530 Million. The rest of the Top 10 landings, by value, included: Sea Scallop, Pollock/Walleye, Sockeye Salmon, Northern White Shrimp, Dungeness Crab, Menhadens, Blue Crab, Eastern Oyster, and Pacific Cod. It's probably no surprise that lobster is the most valued landing. 

The U.S. also exported about 2.8 billion pounds of seafood in 2021, valued at about $5.5 billion, an increase of 355 million pounds (+14.7%) and $952 million (+22.6%) compared to 2020. The Top 10 cxports included: Pollock, Salmon, Hake, Squid, Soles, Lobster, Mackerel, Cod, Ocean Perch, and Crab. So, the U.S. exports nearly 35% of all their landings.

  

In addition, in 2021, the U.S. imported seafood totaling about 7 Billion pounds, valued at $28 Bllion; an increase from 2020 of about 747 Million pounds (+12%) and $6.5 Billion (+30%). The Top 10 imports included: Shrimp, Salmon, Tuna, Tilapia, Crab, Catfish, Cod, Squid, Lobster, and Pollock. I'll add that in 2021, Shrimp imports were also at their highest ever recorded level, almost 2 Billion pounds. Shrimp remains hugely popular and most of the shrimp consumed in the U.S. is imported from around the world. 

Finally, the article noted numerous challenges currently facing the seafood industry, although many of these issues are faced by all industries during these trying times. Their issues include: shipping delays, labor shortages, increased cold storage fees, elevated replacement costs, container shortages, rising freight costs, tempered production, and active demand. This has all contributed to an increase in seafood prices, and as many consumers already thought seafood was too expensive, this hasn't helped increase the consumption of seafood. 

SENA22: An Overview of the Seafood Expo

Due to the pandemic, the Seafood Expo North America (SENA) wasn't held in 2020 and 2021. It finally returned this year, although significantly smaller than usual. I'm happy that it returned, as this is one of my favorite food events of the year, three days of seafood immersion, seeking stories about the latest news and information concerning the seafood industry. 

SENA is the largest seafood trade event in North America, and in prior years it continually broke records on both its exhibitor size and attendance. In 2019, there were over 1349 exhibitors, representing 49 different countries, spread out over 256,690 square feet in exhibit space. However, this year, as expected due to pandemic issues, the event was much smaller. There were only about 830 exhibitors, about one-third less than usual, spread out over 180,000 square-feet of exhibit space. Some of the space that would normally be taken by exhibitors was taken over by food vendors, selling sandwiches, tacos, and more.

Attendance is normally over 20,000 people, but I haven't found attendance figures for this year, though it was clearly much smaller than previous years. The attendees are from countries all over the world, making the Expo a truly international event. It's an excellent example of the interconnectedness of our world, of how we are really one vast community with shared interests. When you consider the oceans occupy about 71% of the world's surface, it's easy to understand how it unites us. Plus, we also have to consider all the freshwater rivers, lakes, and waterways which produce seafood. 

Sunday is usually the busiest day at the Expo, but it seemed much more manageable this year, as in previous years it can get a little crowded walking around, especially when people sometimes stop in the middle of the aisle to chat with others. Walking up and down the myriad aisles of exhibitors at the Expo is also great exercise. And if you get tired, the Expo has several sections where you can sit and recharge your electronics. 

Although masks weren't mandated for SENA, a significant number of exhibitors and attendees still wore masks. There was also plenty of hand sanitizer available throughout the exhibit hall. Social distancing is obviously very difficult at such a large event, so masks were the main option for added protection. 

The main events of the Seafood Expo occur each year over the course of three days, from Sunday to Tuesday, over a total period of 19 hours. However, there are a few other events that occur before and after the normal hours of the Expo, such as receptions and coffee hours. This year, the program included over 28 conference sessions, the 14th Annual Oyster Shucking Competition, the Seafood Excellence Awards, and much more. 

There's something for everyone. However, you certainly can't attend every SENA event, so you need to pick and choose which you most desire to attend, which events fit your specific interests. However, it's always cool to venture beyond your usual interests and learn about something new. Over the years, I've learned plenty about seafood, and I'm always trying to further my education in this regard. 

The three-day event also had an extensive conference program, offering more than 28 sessions, on a wide variety of seafood topics. For example, the keynote address concerned an “Economic Outlook for 2022,” and was given by Megan Greene, a global economist, Financial Times columnist, and senior fellow for the Harvard Kennedy School. Some of the other conference sessions included: Why Seafood Quality is Critical, Finding the Next Generation of Diverse Seafood Talent, Transforming Aquaculture, and Consumer Insights into How & Why They Shop Seafood. I always attend at least a couple of these sessions, which are generally informative and fascinating. 

Each year at SENA, there's a competition held for the Best New Foodservice Product and Best New Retail Product. The finalists’ products are displayed in the New Product Showcase and during the course of the event, the products will be judged, "based on their uniqueness and appropriateness to the market, taste profile, packaging, market potential, convenience, nutritional value and originality." The winner this year included: Best New Retail Product to Bakkafrost--Native Hebridean Smoked Scottish Salmon Side and Best New Foodservice Product to DOM International Limited – DOM Reserve Salmon Poke. 

SENA is a food event which I've promoted and recommended year after year. Besides all the delectable seafood samples, you'll also find ample fodder for many different story ideas. SENA touches on some of the most important issues facing our world, from sustainability to climate change. Every local writer who has any interest in seafood, sustainability, health, recipes, or food in general, should attend this Expo. 

However, few local writers attend SENA and those who do commonly write only a single article about it. These articles are often very basic, touching only on some of the most general issues about the Expo. Even the major local newspapers often ignore SENA, at best printing a single article about it, a basic overview lacking any depth. This year, it seems that neither the Boston Herald nor the Boston Globe have published pieces about SENA. Why is SENA so often ignored in local media coverage? It's an embarrassment that such an important event receives so little local press. 

As I've said before, this all needs to change. We need more local writers to attend SENA and delve more deeply into the myriad issues of the seafood industry. We need more local writers to help promote seafood consumption and sustainability. We need more local writers to contribute to the discussion of these vital issues. We need the print media to get more involved too. The more positive articles about seafood, the better for all of us. There's too much negativity in the media about seafood consumption and more positive articles need to set the record straight.

It should be obvious that the primary element of SENA is commerce, the buying and selling of seafood-related products and services. Nearly all of the exhibitors are there to make money while most of the attendees are there to spend money. Attendees are seeking seafood, both fresh and frozen, as well as various processed seafood products, from crab cakes to salmon bacon. Others are there to buy processing equipment, cooking supplies, packaging machinery, labeling equipment, conveyors, and much more. Still others are seeking services, from food safety to third party certification. Much of this commerce is international, with exhibitors and attendees from all over the world, trying to make deals. It's business and money.

What may not seem obvious is that SENA is not really about seafood. Despite the many thousand pounds of seafood being showcased at the Expo, it's merely a means to an end. SENA is actually about people and community. Seafood is only food, intended to provide sustenance and nutrition to people, and that is understood, though largely unspoken, by the exhibitors and attendees. SENA is much more about fishermen and fish farmers, distributors and retailers, inventors and importers. It is about all of the people involved in the seafood industry, and their economic well being. It is about the global economy as the seafood industry is truly international and affects people all across the world.

Concerns about seafood sustainability ultimately come down to the fate of people, whether future generations will have enough food to survive, and whether they will live in a clean world, with adequate resources. The fate of the oceans and the fish directly relates to the fate of mankind. Seafood sustainability is also about the survival of fishermen, that they can make a sufficient income to survive and thrive. When you understand that SENA is all about people, then the issues take on an even greater significance. We need to talk about this more, to ensure that everyone understands people are the primary concern. It is our future and nothing is more important than that.

Although SENA involves many serious and vital issues, it also has an element of fun, as well as plenty of tasty seafood samples. SENA is a showcase for new seafood products as well as place to display other seafood products which may have a storied history, such as Maine Lobster. Though it is common to find for sampling a variety of simple, fried seafoods, there are also some chefs who elevate their offerings, providing more interesting and delicious dishes. This year, because of pandemic issues, there were far less seafood samples available.   

I'll be posting additional articles about SENA in the near future, highlighting some of the items which especially caught my attention this year. Tidal Tots, Dutch Oysters, Fried Fish Skins, and more. 

Finally, I want to highlight that SENA returns next year, March 12-14, 2023, and I strongly encourage all local writers to mark those dates down on their calendar and plan to attend next year. I suspect that SENA will return to close to pre-pandemic levels next year. The seafood industry needs more champions to promote its many positive aspects and I call on local writers to step up and become one of those needed champions.