The Mali Ston Oyster: A Croatian Prize of the Adriatic

“An oyster leads a dreadful but exciting life. Indeed, his chance to live at all is slim, and if he should survive the arrows of his own outrageous fortune and in the two weeks of his carefree youth fine a clean smooth place to fox on, the years afterwards are full of stress, passion and danger.”
--Consider the Oyster (1941) by M.F.K. Fisher

Have you heard of the famed Mali Ston Oyster? Even if you're a dedicated oyster lover in the U.S., you probably have not heard of these unique oysters. I own numerous books about oysters and they all fail to mention the Mali Ston oyster. When these books discuss European oysters, the Belon, from France, gets most of the attention. In addition, as you probably can't find Mali Ston oysters in the U.S., then it remains largely hidden to most Americans. 

Until I traveled to Croatia in 2019, I was unaware of Mali Ston oysters as well. However, once I tasted them, once those oysters thrilled my palate, I made an effort to learn much more about these wondrous bivalves. They were plump and meaty, with a more unique taste and a pleasant brininess. When I traveled back to Croatia this past May, I looked forward to enjoying more Mali Ston oysters and I got an opportunity while I was in Zagreb, dining at Bota Šare. The Šare family has been involved in oyster farming for generations, and is currently one of a relatively small number of legal oyster farmers. 

All of the photos in this article are from my dinner at Bota Šare, which included raw oysters, grilled oysters, and oyster tempura. We enjoyed other seafood dishes from this restaurant as well, including some tasty risotto, but I'm concentrating here on oysters. 

"The flavor of an oyster depends upon several things. First, if it is fresh and sweet and healthy it will taste good, quite simply . . . good, that is, if the taster likes oyster."
--Consider the Oyster (1941) by M.F.K. Fisher

The Mali Ston oyster is a European flat oyster (Ostrea edulis) which grows in the Mali Ston Bay in the Adriatic Sea. This is the same oyster species as the famed French Belon oysters. The bay is enclosed by the Pelješac peninsula and the Dalmatian mainland, and received its name from Mali Ston, a small village on the peninsula. Although the bay is only about 17 miles long, it possesses numerous coves, islets and ridges, which mean the total coastline is actually about 63 miles. Besides oyster farming, the bay also permits mussel farming.

“Men have enjoyed eating oysters since they were not much more than monkeys, according to the kitchen middens they have left behind them.”
--Consider the Oyster (1941) by M.F.K. Fisher

Oysters have been consumed since prehistory, although oyster farming, rather than wild harvest, likely extends back to the ancient Romans. To the Romans, oysters possessed various health benefits and were prescribed for numerous ailments. In addition, they were also considered a potent aphrodisiac. Romans sometimes consumed massive quantities of oysters and it's alleged that Emperor Aulus Vitellius once consumed 1,200 oysters at one occasion. And it was Roman emperors who first established oyster farms off the Dalmatian coast. 

During the time of the Republic of Ragusa (1358-1808), which was centered on the city of Dubrovnik, oyster farming was well documented. These farms were often financed by nobles who then allegedly were paid in oysters rather than cash. The Mali Ston oysters were frequently on the tables of the nobility, including when they entertained foreign dignitaries, helping to spread the fame of these special oysters. For example, the Austrian Emperor Franz Josef so much enjoyed these oysters that he had them shipped to Vienna, on a monthly basis.

The Bunkie Record (LA), May 2, 1974, noted that “Near Mali Ston in the Bistrina Bay, the best Adriatic oysters have been cultivated by the suspension method for centuries.” That article also mentioned how, in the 1830s, many Croatians, who were living in Yugoslavia at the time, emigrated to Louisiana and in the 1850s, they started cultivating oysters there, helping to establish an oyster farming industry. Today, Louisiana produces about 40% of the oysters in the U.S. 

"First, several millennia ago, men cracked the shells and sucked out the tender gray bodies with their attendant juices and their inevitable sharp splinters. Then, when knives came, they pried open the two shells and cupped the lower one in their hands, careful not to spill its colorless elixir."
--Consider the Oyster (1941) by M.F.K. Fisher

During the 20th century, both World War I and II caused extensive damage to the Mali Ston oyster farms, leading to extensive and intensive rebuilding. During the 1980s, oyster farming was modernized, introducing new farming methods and techniques, giving a huge boost to the industry. By 1990, about 2 million oysters were being harvested each year from the Mali Ston Bay. However, the Homeland War (1991-1995), led to the destruction, once again, of many oyster farms. Oyster farming rebounded after the war, and it's now well regulated.

Back in 1983, the Mali Ston Bay was declared a protected area, which was changed in 1998 to a strict reserve and then in 2002, it became a protected special marine reserve. Finally, in 2020, after several years of work, Mali Ston oysters received a Protection Designation of Origin from the European Union, and this was the first such designation for a farmed European flat oyster. Croatia now has about 30 agricultural and good products with this designation. 

Currently, about 90% of the oysters farmed in Croatia are Mali Ston oysters, reaching an annual production of about two million. The vast majority of these oysters are consumed within Croatia, so exports are very low. 

“I recall now that Dr. Ernesto Illy, the coffee king, once told me over dinner in Trieste, his base of operations, that the fish and shellfish on the Croatian side of the Adriatic Sea, where the bottom is mainly rocky, were better than those on the Italian side, where it tends to be muddier.”

--New York Times, September 15, 2004

What makes the Mali Ston Bay such a unique place? First, it's the habitat for almost 90 species of shellfish, although only oysters and mussels are currently farmed there. Second, the lengthy bay is fairly well sheltered from the ocean, including its rougher seas, and also means that there's a greater mainland influence than the ocean. Third, the Neretva River, which flows into the sea, carries minerals and nutrients into the the bay, as well as helps to regular the temperature and currents. Fourth, the Mali Ston seabed is rich in phytoplankton, which oysters eat, feeding by filtering water and extracting the phytoplankton.

Oyster farming remains relatively simple, and everything is still done by hand, and it's said that once the oysters are harvested, they will be touched 5-7 times before reaching a plate. Harvesting is only conducted in months when the oysters aren't reproducing, and only oysters that are 3 years old or older are taken. 

 

"A little later, in the times of Voltaire and Pope and Swift, oysters were considered less as a food than as an apéritif, so that it was quite usual to serve ten or twelve dozen to each guest as a “starter” for a banquet….One man, old Marshal Turgot, who knew almost too much about famines, was able in fatter days to eat a hundred oysters before breakfast just to whet his appetite."
--Consider the Oyster (1941) by M.F.K. Fisher

According to Mali Ston Oyster, "In its prime, Mali Ston oyster has a greasy texture, glossy grey-white-yellowish, firm, domed and swollen fatty tissue or “meat”. It is soft and succulent to bite, with balanced sweet and salty taste and characteristic pleasant sea-mineral flavor. The large amount of glycogen is responsible for the greasy texture of the meat which melts in the mouth, producing a distinct, sweet and full flavor."

In addition, the Mali Ston oyster is rich in umami, the fifth taste which roughly translates as "savoriness" or "meatiness." As such, oysters can pair well with other foods that possess umami, especially those which derive their umami from other sources. Different sources of umami can create a synergistic effect, enhancing the overall umami taste. This will also affect possible drink pairings, as I'll discuss soon. 

"Oysters are healthful and nourishing, full of all the chemical elements such as oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and on and on, which occur regularly in your own body and are necessary to it. They keep you fit, do oysters, with vitamins and such, for energy and what is lightly called “fuel value.”
--Consider the Oyster (1941) by M.F.K. Fisher

Mali Ston oysters, as most oysters, are rich in vitamins and minerals, including vitamins A, B1, B2, B3, D, E, and vitamin C, which is rare to find in other animals. The minerals include iodine, calcium, iron, sodium, potassium, selenium, zinc and chromium. Zinc plays an important role in human reproductive stystems, which may be one reason oysters have been considered aphrodisiacs. Raw oysters are also rich in rare amino acids (D-aspartic acid and N-methyl-D-aspartate), which increase testosterone levels, another boost to their alleged aphrodisiacal effects. In addition, oysters are a source of essential amino acids such as lysine, histidine and tyrosine. A dozen oysters can amount to fewer than 100 calories but are worth as much in protein as a 4-ounce steak and contain as much calcium as a glass of milk. 

So, oysters are not only delicious but they are extremely nutritious as well, providing assistance to many elements of the human body. You can feel good about devouring a dozen oysters before dinner, or for lunch, or even for breakfast. 

"There are, oddly enough, almost as many ways to eat such a simple dish as there are men to eat it."
--Consider the Oyster (1941) by M.F.K. Fisher

Oysters are versatile and can be eaten in so many different ways. Sure, you can eat them simply raw, on the half shell, with a dash of lemon juice, a mignonette sauce, or a touch of horseradish sauce. They also can be prepared in a myriad of other ways: fried, baked, grilled, in soups and chowders, in pasta or risotto dishes, in stuffing and sandwiches, and much more. The tempura oysters at Bota Šare were excellent, with a light, crispy batter. 

What are some of your favorite ways to enjoy oysters?

“There are three kinds of oyster-eaters: those loose-minded sports who will eat anything, hot, cold, thin, thick, dead or alive, as long as it is oyster; those who will eat them raw and only raw; and those who with equal severity will eat them cooked and no way other.”
--Consider the Oyster (1941) by M.F.K. Fisher

In March, the oysters are supposed to be at their most delicious, and are showcased during the Feast of Saint Joseph, on March 19. This is an old tradition, which apparently disappeared for a time, but was resurrected. Now, the oyster festival at this time is famed, bringing many people to the region of Ston to partake of the delectable Mali Ston oysters.

“Oysters, being almost universal, can be and have been eaten with perhaps a wider variety of beverages than almost any other dish I can think of . . . and less disastrously. They lend themselves to the whims of every cool and temperate climate, so that one man can drink wine with them, another beer, and another fermented buttermilk, and no man will be wrong.”
--Consider the Oyster (1941) by M.F.K. Fisher

What wine should you pair with Mali Ston oysters? Frankly, there are many wines, and other beverages, which will work well and please many palates. In Croatia, one of the most popular pairings is Pošip, which is fresh, has good acidity, and a nice minerality. On multiple occasions, including at Bota Šare, I've enjoyed Pošip with these oysters and loved the pairing. 

Other Croatian wines pairing choices would include Sparkling Wines, especially the drier versions, and white wines made from grapes such as Grasevina, Malvazija, and Debit. Although these wines come in a variety of styles, seek out the fresher versions, especially those with more minerality. I recommend experimenting with wine pairings, finding out which pairings you most prefer as tastes do vary.

“The oyster is older than us. Older than grass. It was here at the start of civilization, at the start of the world.”
--Oyster: A World History (2010) by Drew Smith 

Have you ever tasted Mali Ston oysters? If so, what were your thoughts?

SENA22: U.S. Seafood Statistics: From Wild Capture to Aquaculture

The latest issue of Urner Barry's Reporter (Spring 2002) presented their Annual Review of the State of the Seafood Industry. The issue provided some fascinating insight into the seafood industry, and allowed us to glimpse likely future trends. The issue was provided for free at the Seafood Expo North America (SENA).  

Some people rant about aquaculture, believing it's harmful and that farmed seafood doesn't taste as good as wild caught. To a large degree, they are mistaken and aquaculture is clearly the future of the seafood industry. Historically, about sixty years ago, in 1961, 95% of total seafood production in the U.S. was wild capture while only 5% involved aquaculture. However, the amount of aquaculture has grown every year since then, and now it is the majority.   

In 2013, the proportion of aquaculture exceeded wild capture for the first time, and currently total production is now 56% aquaculture and 44% wild capture. In 2019, wild capture declined 4.1% while aquaculture increased by 3.74%. It's believed that aquaculture in the coming years will grow by about 62%. 

During the past sixty years, the practice of aquaculture has improved in leaps and bounds, helping to resolve some of the earliest problems that occurred with aquaculture. The growth in improvement of aquaculture is stunning, far outstripping any gains in the farming of beef, pork, chicken, etc. Many aquaculture products have now been certified as sustainable by various organizations. It's time for people to eliminate their prejudices against farmed seafood. 

As for wild capture in 2020, total U.S. commercial landings were about 8.4 billion pounds, valued at $4.78 Billion, which was a decrease from the prior year of $818 Million. The top landed species, by volume, was Alaska Pollock, constituting about 3.2 Billion pounds, nearly 40% of the total. The rest of the Top 10 landings, by volume, included: Menhadens, Hake/Whiting, Pacific Cod, Yellowfin/Salmon, Sockeye Salmon, Pink Sole, Rockfish/Pacific Ocean Perch, Mackeral/Atka, and American Lobster. 

Pollock has become the "white fish" of choice in many prepared and frozen fish products, from fried fish sandwiches to frozen fish sticks.  

The top landed species, by value, was the American Lobster, constituting about $530 Million. The rest of the Top 10 landings, by value, included: Sea Scallop, Pollock/Walleye, Sockeye Salmon, Northern White Shrimp, Dungeness Crab, Menhadens, Blue Crab, Eastern Oyster, and Pacific Cod. It's probably no surprise that lobster is the most valued landing. 

The U.S. also exported about 2.8 billion pounds of seafood in 2021, valued at about $5.5 billion, an increase of 355 million pounds (+14.7%) and $952 million (+22.6%) compared to 2020. The Top 10 cxports included: Pollock, Salmon, Hake, Squid, Soles, Lobster, Mackerel, Cod, Ocean Perch, and Crab. So, the U.S. exports nearly 35% of all their landings.

  

In addition, in 2021, the U.S. imported seafood totaling about 7 Billion pounds, valued at $28 Bllion; an increase from 2020 of about 747 Million pounds (+12%) and $6.5 Billion (+30%). The Top 10 imports included: Shrimp, Salmon, Tuna, Tilapia, Crab, Catfish, Cod, Squid, Lobster, and Pollock. I'll add that in 2021, Shrimp imports were also at their highest ever recorded level, almost 2 Billion pounds. Shrimp remains hugely popular and most of the shrimp consumed in the U.S. is imported from around the world. 

Finally, the article noted numerous challenges currently facing the seafood industry, although many of these issues are faced by all industries during these trying times. Their issues include: shipping delays, labor shortages, increased cold storage fees, elevated replacement costs, container shortages, rising freight costs, tempered production, and active demand. This has all contributed to an increase in seafood prices, and as many consumers already thought seafood was too expensive, this hasn't helped increase the consumption of seafood. 

All About Seafood

"In the hands of an able cook, fish can become an inexhaustible source of perpetual delight."
---Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

By some estimates, by the year 2050, the global population might reach nearly 10 billion people, requiring the production of twice as much food as we currently consume. Assuring food security will require improvements in farming methods, new technologies and superior stewardship of finite natural resources. Seafood will play a vital role in a healthier future if wild fisheries can be managed well and best practices prevail in the aquaculture industry. Today, aquaculture provides roughly 50% of seafood, expected to rise to 67% by 2050. When consumers know the facts, we are convinced that they will embrace the ideas and spirit behind sustainable seafood and begin actively to search out producers of authentic, quality, responsible seafood products.

"Globalization may have made the world a smaller place, but it had also created voids and disconnects. Because of the enormous distances between the sources and users of some products, consumers knew very little about the implications of their choices."
--Hooked: Pirates, Poaching, and the Perfect Fish by G. Bruce Knecht

I've currently written over 125 seafood-related articles, indicative of my passion for seafood. For five consecutive years, I won awards for my coverage of the Seafood Expo North America and was also chosen as one of the Gulf Coast Seafood's Top 100 Seafood Bloggers. To help bring more visibility to my seafood coverage, I've compiled all of the links to my seafood posts into this single article. This post will be a repository of those articles and I will update it when I write a new article about seafood. Over time, I will also spend more time organizing these posts into various topics.

How To Cook Seafood 
SENA14: How To Cook Seafood
SENA15: How To Cook Seafood
How To Cook Seafood, Vol.1
How To Cook Seafood, Vol.2
How To Cook Seafood, Vol.3
Louisiana Seafood & Chef Michael Brewer
Nova Scotia Seafood Chowder Recipe

Some Of My Seafood-Related Rants
Rant: Seafood Ain't Cheap, Suck It Up
Rant: Would You Fish For Dinner...At A Restaurant?
Rant: Eat More Seafood, Your Heart Will Thank You
Rant: Be More Seafood Adventurous
Rant: Another Reminder, Eat More Seafood
Rant: Keep Eating More Seafood
Rant: Seafood Fraud & Imitation Crab
Rant: Wake Up Japan, Bluefin Are In Danger
Rant: Stop Worrying, Seafood Is Safe
Rant: Seafood Sustainability Not As Important Now?
Rant: Cook More Seafood, Especially Local
Rant: Should We Take Fish Lessons From Maine?
Rant: Bluefin Tuna Stocks Recovering?
Rant: Eat More Seafood, Especially Local
Rant: Can Bordeaux Save The Sharks?
Rant: Stop Eating Cod, Tuna & Salmon
Rant: Flipper, Fear Northeast Fishermen
Rant: Another Blacklisted Seafood Dinner in Boston?
Rant: A Response To "Another Blacklisted Seafood Dinner in Boston?"
Rant: Too Critical Of Sustainability Proponents?
Rant: Berkowitz Blacklisted Dinner--One Year Later
Rant: Who Can You Trust? The Cod Edition

Aquaculture
To Feed The World, We Need More Aquaculture
Updated News on Seafood Consumption, Landings & Aquaculture
Americans, Don't Ignore Farmed Seaweed
SENA15: Aquaculture Stewardship Council Update 
SENA14: Is Aquaculture Sustainable?
SENA14: Updates From The Aquaculture Stewardship Council
SENA14: Baja Seas: A New Yellowtail Aquaculture Project
U.S. Aquaculture Advocacy
Aquaculture & Cobia
Verlasso Farmed Salmon
Verlasso Salmon: A Seafood Watch "Good Alternative"
SENA14: Verlasso Salmon: An Update
Verlasso Salmon: An Update
New MA Seafood Program: But What About Farmed Shellfish?

Wine & Seafood
2012 Bodegas Martín Códax Albariño: A Seafood Companion
Starting The New Year With Cremant d'Alsace & Lobster
Sake, Seafood & Lobster Anywhere
Wine & Seafood

Seafood & Health
Seafood: Fighting The Mercury Myth
Seafood Fear Mongering: The Mercury Myth
SENA15: Seafood Nutrition Partnership & Eating Heart Healthy
The Healthiest Food You Can Eat?

Specific Seafoods
Cannonball Jellyfish: Eat Up Americans
The Endangered Vaquita: A Cautionary Tale
Maine Lobsters: Endangered?
SENA17: Sea Urchin Master Class
SENA15: Master Class--Canada’s Organic Blue Mussels 
Eating More Mussels
Want Cheap, Tasty, Healthy & Sustainable Seafood? Choose Mussels
SENA15: Maine Dayboat Scallops & Merroir
SENA15: Paiche, the "Cod Of The Amazon"
SENA14: Sustainable Caviar In Florida
SENA14: Maine Lobster from Trap to Table
SENA14: Estuario del Plata Caviar
SENA14: Chilean Sea Bass--Back From The Brink
Norweigan Skrei: Sustainable & Tasty Cod
Maine Scallops: Restrictions to Rebounding

Fish Fun
SENA17: Fish Fun & Photos
SENA15: Fish Fun & Photos
SENA14: Fish Fun & Photos
An Interview With Monty

More Seafood Posts
Seafood Mislabeling: How Prevalent?
Seafood Sustainability & Social Issues
The Origins of Ceviche, Tempura and Fish & Chips
The Largest Marine Reserve in the World
Boring Americas: The Seafood Edition
Lucky Peach: The Seashore Issue
Consumers & Seafood Certification
The 3 Rules Of Eating Seafood
Pirate Fishermen: No Peglegs Nor Parrots
Miya's Sushi & Chef Bun Lai: Like A Haiku
Rant: Seafood Sustainability Not As Important Now?
Red's Best Seafood: Local, Traceable & Flexible
SeaShare: Seafood For Hungry Americans
International Boston Seafood Show: Japanese Pavilion
Perceptions of Seafood Sustainability
Eat More U.S. Seafood: The Gulf Coast
How A Restaurant Becomes Sustainable
State of Fisheries Address
Consumers Purchasing Sustainable Seafood
Status & Safety of Japanese Seafood
Buy American Seafood: Four Excellent Choices
Seafood Prices & Fate of Local Fishermen
Roger Berkowitz and OAWRS
Roger Berkowitz & Vietnam Shrimp Farms
Berkowitz & Legal Sea Food: A Matter Of Trust
Fish Restaurant: Calamari, Sword Fish Chop & Bacon Beignets
Bonefish Grill: A New Seafood Restaurant in Burlington

SENA18: The Seafood Expo (Part 3)
SENA18: The Seafood Expo (Part 2)
SENA18: The Seafood Expo (Part 1)
SENA 17: Chefs & The Business of Seafood
SENA17: "We Don't Know How To Talk About Seafood"
SENA17: Seafood of Interest
SENA15: Rant--Seafood Expo For The Public
SENA15: Sunburst Trout Farms Jerky & Caviar 
SENA15: The Changing Landscape of Sustainable Seafood 
SENA15: Inupiat, Kotzebue & Sheefish
SENA15: Marine Stewardship Council Update
SENA15: Twelve Things You Should Know
SENA15: 2 Billion People Are Coming To Dinner, Let's Feed Them Fish!
SENA15: Blue North and Humane Harvest Initiative
SENA15: Ocean Executive & Seafood Trading Platform
SENA15: Food of Interest
SENA15: Rant--Understanding the Seafood Retail Consumer
SENA15: Saucy Fish--Sustainable, Easy To Cook & Inexpensive
SENA15: Combating IUU Fishing & Seafood Fraud
SENA15: The Evolution Of Seafood Sustainability
SENA15: Final Ponderings
Seafood Expo North America: Why You Should Go
SENA14: How Can we Increase Seafood Consumption in the US?
SENA14: Chefs For Seals
SENA14: FSMA & Imported Seafood
SENA14: Eleven Things You Need To Know
SENA14: Food of Interest
SENA14: The Seven Keys of Sustainability
SENA14: Pathways to Sustainability & Global Salmon Initiative
SENA14: Brief Items Of Interest
SENA14: Final Ponderings

“The sea can bind us to her many moods, whispering to us by the subtle token of a shadow or a gleam upon the waves, and hinting in these ways of her mournfulness or rejoicing. Always she is remembering old things, and these memories, though we may not grasp them, are imparted to us, so that we share her gaiety or remorse.”
--H.P. Lovecraft

Rhode Island: Matunuck Oyster Bar (Part 2)

"An oyster, that marvel of delicacy, that concentration of sapid excellence, that mouthful before all other mouthfuls, who first had faith to believe it, and courage to execute? The exterior is not persuasive."
--Henry Ward Beecher

As I mentioned yesterday, Perry Raso began with a oyster farm and in 2009, he decided to open a restaurant, the Matunuck Oyster Bar. Initially, the site of the would-be restaurant was a run-down clam shack and Perry didn't have any restaurant experience. Despite the challenges, Perry persevered, establishing a restaurant based on a concept of “simple food, fairly priced, fresh products, and making sure everybody leaves happy.” There is also an element of Pond to Plate, as they serve oysters harvested from the pond outside the patio as well as produce from their organic farm.

The outside patio and bar, perfect for a summer day.

This section of the patio has a retractable glass roof. The restaurant is casual, but it is more than a simple clam shack.

The interior dining room with the bar in the back. A nice casual elegance.

The raw bar, displaying all of the current shellfish available. Lots of shucking going on there.

The second floor dining room has a large map of southern Rhode Island, showing all the ponds, on one wall.

The restaurant has a full bar and recently redid their wine list, adding even more options, with about twenty wines available by the glass, priced $8-$13. Their beer list contains many brews from across New England and they have a list of special Cocktails, priced $10-$11. I began with a glass of Muscadet, which was a great choice for the oysters with which we started the lunch.  I also tried the Potters Pond Bloody Mary which is made with house-infused horseradish vodka, house-made Bloody Mary mix with a Matunuck Oyster. It was spicy and savory, another fine way to begin lunch or dinner.

The food menu has plenty of seafood options, as well as non-seafood options, though why would you come here for anything but seafood unless you are allergic? The menu begins with Raw Bar options, including a Dozen Oysters for $21.95, which is a good value at less than $2 per oyster. Clams and Shrimp are also options. There are about 18 Starters, mostly priced $11.95-$13.95, such as Point Judith Calamari, Oyster Stew, Alaskan King Crab, and more. There are also five Salads, priced $7.95 to $18.95, such as Caesar Salad and Sesame Seared Tuna. You find about 16 Entrees, priced $14.95-$43.95, such as Stuffed Lobsters, Pistachio Crusted Atlantic Cod, Jambalaya, and Fried Oysters. Finally, there are five Sandwiches, priced $12.50-$17.95, such as Lobster Roll and Oyster Po Boy.

The menu has a good diversity of dishes, it's reasonably priced, and presents plenty of local, sustainable seafood options. And on a Wednesday afternoon in late May, the restaurant was quite busy, even past the usual lunch hours. During the summer, I'd suggest you make reservations to ensure you get a table.

We began with some Oysters, including Matunuck (the smaller ones on the right side) and Quonnie Rocks (which are from Quonochontaug Pond in Charlestown, Rhode Island). Both had a nice briny taste to them though the Matunuck also had more of a sweet element as well. The Quonnies were larger and plumper.

 

The Starters include several different Oyster preparations, including my favorite, the Bourbon Oysters which are Matunucks broiled with a Bourbon chipotle sauce. Such a savory, slightly sweet and spicy sauce, balanced with the briny element of the oyster.

The Oysters Rockefeller, are made with Pernod, spinach, bacon, breadcrumbs & fresh herbs, and provided a some nice herbal flavors, with a hint of bitter which actually went well with the salinity of the oysters.

The Clams Casino are Rhode Island littlenecks with bacon and bread crumb stuffing, giving a bit of smokiness to the clams and crisp breading with buttery notes.

We received a basket of rolls, which the server nonchalantly presented as "nothing special" but which I think were definitely special. The fresh, house-made rolls; had a perfect crusty top with a little bit of seasoning, and a light, fluffy interior. They came with a dish of oil and spices, including some lavender, and I could have eaten the entire basket of rolls myself. If you love bread, these rolls will satisfy your cravings.

The Stuffie is a famous Rhode Island seafood dish, a stuffed quahog (a large, hard shell clam).  This one is house-made, with chourico, and is a large clam with a delicious stuffing full of pieces of clam and enhanced by the spicy taste of the chourico. If you visit Rhode Island, you really need to experience this dish.

Rhode Island Clam Chowder, also known as South County style, has a clear broth, with clams, potatoes, onions and often bacon. It is more really a soup than a chowder, and is a good soup but definitely not a replacement for a creamy New England Clam Chowder.

The Point Judith Calamari were lightly fried with cherry peppers, arugula, capers & citrus aioli. Tender, with a light, crisp batter they were balanced with the acidity of the cherry peppers. This is another iconic Rhode Island seafood and Matunuck does it proud.

The Scallop Ceviche (which currently doesn't contain their own bay scallops) is made with mango, cilantro, peppers & lime and is served with crispy wonton chips. The silky scallops were fresh and delicious, with a nice sweetness to them, enhanced with the fruit flavors.

My entree was the Pint of Whole Belly Clams, which consisted of lightly fried whole belly clams with house cut fries, coleslaw & tartar sauce. Again, the fried seafood was clean and lightly breaded, a tasty bite. They were not gritty at all and the french fries were good as well.

Overall, Matunuck is a very good seafood restaurant, reasonably priced and offering plenty of fresh seafood as well as regional specialities. If you are near South Kingston, you should stop by, even if it is only for some oysters and a drink. However, if you have the time, tour the oyster farm before dining at the restaurant. Perry mentioned that he has considered opening a second spot but it needs to be the right spot so it might take time for him to find a place that meets all his needs.

"The life of man is of no greater importance to the universe than that of an oyster."
--David Hume

Rhode Island: Matunuck Oyster Bar (Part 1)

"We must plant the sea and herd its animals using the sea as farmers instead of hunters. That is what civilization is all about - farming replacing hunting."
--Jacques Yves Cousteau

As I've mentioned multiple times before, the U.S. imports approximately 91% of the seafood that is consumed. That is an astounding statistic and it is imperative that we consume much more domestic seafood, for numerous reasons which I have also repeated on this blog. In addition, about 50% of the seafood we consume is from aquaculture, despite the fact that aquaculture often receives a bad rap. Some people outright dismiss farmed raised seafood, generally based on outdated information, and the media doesn't help, preferring to print scare stories about the dangers of aquaculture, rather than discussing the many success stories.

In fact, aquaculture has been improving for years, and is continuing to work towards greater sustainability. And it has improved far more than the horrendous factory farms often raising chickens, pigs, and cattle. It is bizarre to hear people tell me they won't eat farmed salmon, but they will still eat pork from factory farms without any issue. It is largely due to ignorance and misinformation of the actual facts.

In 2012, the U.S. produced about 594 million pounds of aquaculture seafood, both freshwater and marine, valued at about $1.2 billion. We have seen a steady growth in aquaculture since 2007, roughly 8% each year. However, the volume of aquaculture is only about 6% of the wild catch so there is much room for growth. The top U.S. marine aquaculture species by volume is Atlantic salmon with oysters as a close second. By value though, oysters take the top spot with salmon in second. Oysters are very sustainable and as they are filter feeders, they actually enhance the waters. There is no reason why we shouldn't increase oyster production in the U.S.

"Oysters are the most tender and delicate of all seafoods. The stay in bed all day and night. They never work or take exercise, are stupendous drinkers, and wait for their meals to come to them."
--Hector Bolitho

In Rhode Island, their top aquaculture product is oysters and the 2015 Annual Status Report of the Coastal Resources Management Council provided some interesting statistics concerning aquaculture in that state. There are now 61 aquaculture farms, up from 55, and the total area under cultivation is about 241 acres, a 17% increase from the prior year. The number of aquaculture farm workers also increased 20% from 142 to 171. About 8.2 million oysters were sold for consumption, an increase of 18% since 2013. Only about 47,000 Hard Clams were sold while the Blue Mussel harvest was nearly 16,000 pounds. It is great to see such growth.

Recently, I was invited on a media day-trip to southern Rhode Island, a culinary exploration, and our primary destination was the Matunuck Oyster Bar in South Kingston. Matunuck is both an oyster farm and restaurant, and we got to tour the fascinating farm as well as enjoy a delicious lunch of seafood specialities, including raw oysters. If you enjoy seafood, or are concerned about sustainability, you should tour an oyster farm, to get educated about its operations. And Matunuck runs free public tours so this presents an excellent opportunity to see how oysters (and scallops) are raised.

Our guide was Perry Raso, the owner of Matunuck, who was down-to-earth, passionate about aquaculture and clearly a very hard worker. He never seemed to slow down and even mentioned offhand that on his vacations, he generally is traveling to other places to help them establish oyster farms. He comes across as humble and sincere, answering all of your questions quite freely. In addition, he lives on the property, in a 300 year old house which is allegedly haunted and which Perry claims is very "creepy."

When Perry was 12 years old, he used to dig littlenecks in Point Judith Pond, and this was the start of his love for the ocean and seafood. He would continue in the following years to collect seafood, whether eel trapping or scuba diving for steamers. He eventually earned a Masters degree in Aquaculture & Fisheries Technology from URI and did some teaching. In 2002, his interests led to him establishing the Matunuck Oyster Farm in Potter Pond (formerly known as Fish Pond), a saltwater pond, and eventually starting a restaurant in 2009. Interestingly, Perry stated that he "doesn't do what he loves but it is simply the best way he knows to make a living."

Potter Pond, which extends about 3/4 of a mile, is the only inlet that leads into an estuary and about 6.9 acres are cultivated for seafood, including oysters, little neck clams and most recently, scallops. Perry spent a little time discussing the benefits of aquaculture and how shellfish are sustainable. He also explained some of the reasons why Potter Pond worked so well, such as that its natural protections prevent the waters from being subjected to many disruptive waves, which could adversely affect the oyster farms.

Perry purchased 20 million oyster seeds from a hatchery, noting that when the water temperature rises to a certain degree, oysters breed and the female oyster can release as many as 8 million eggs. Oysters are capable of changing sex, even multiple times, during their lifetime though over 90% of oysters, after three years, are female. Perry grows the seeds in mesh bags which can hold about 2000 oysters. The seeds will grow for about 2-3 years before they can be harvested. Each year, they harvest about 1.2 million oysters, about 15% of the total oyster production in Rhode Island, and they continue to expand and grow, even selling some oyster seeds to others.

In the oyster farm, there is some gear which is set in place while others are floating, and generally, each section has 42 rows with 100 bags each. They grow Matunuck Oysters as well as Potter Moons, with the Matunuck being sweeter while the Potter's tend to be more briny. About 10%-15% of their production constitute Potter Moons, which grow on the sea floor. They harvest to order and use the empty shells for restoration projects with the Nature Conservancy.

A view of the back of the restaurant from the boat which takes you on a tour of the oyster farm.

The greatest challenge that Perry faces with his farm is trying to increase the amount of oysters. He needs to deal with their high mortality rates, parasites and predators, including starfish and mud crabs.

Once we reached one of the farming spots, Perry jumped into the water to show us the mesh bags and oysters. This picture gives a good perspective of the size of the mesh bags.

These were tiny oysters that he took out of the bag.

And a much closer view of one of the growing oysters.

These are some of the floating gear bags.

Again, the size of the bags is the same though these seem to have more vegetation atop the bags.

Perry is also cultivating Bay Scallops, having served the first ones at his restaurant in March.  Despite the high popularity of scallops, their cultivation hasn't yet caught on in Rhode Island and Perry is a pioneer in this respect. However, he notes that scallop farming is more difficult than oysters as the scallops are more finicky and don't winter well. With more experience and experimentation, he should be able to produce more scallops and maybe some other Rhode Island aquaculture operations will start raising scallops too.

These are some of the growing scallops.

This machine sorts the oysters by size, kind of like how a coin machine operates to separate dimes from nickels and quarters.

Crates of sorted oysters.

In addition to the shellfish farms, Perry also started an organic vegetable and fruit farm about 4 years ago. The produce is mostly used in his restaurant.

You'll find a variety of produce being grown, including peas, strawberries, kale, tomatoes, rainbow chard, beets, spinach, asparagus and more.

Many thanks to Perry for taking the time to show us his oyster and scallops farms, and best wishes for the future. It was a fascinating and informative tour and highly recommended to anyone visiting Rhode Island. Understanding the source of your food is beneficial and learning the benefits of aquaculture is also beneficial.

Eat more domestic Seafood! Eat more Oysters!