Black Button Distilling: Bourbon Cream to Canned Cocktails

Last Friday, shares of Boston Beer dropped by 26%, largely because of a significantly decreased demand for Hard Seltzer. One of the reason for this reduced demand is the presence of Ready to Drink cocktails (RTDs), which have seen a huge boom in recent years. In 2019, RTD sales increased by about 43% and in 2020, they increased again by about 43%. I recently enjoyed a RTD new to the Massachusetts market, and was quite impressed with it.   

I participated in a media Zoom call, having received review samples of spirits, with Jason Barrett, the founder of Black Button Distilling in Rochester, New York. This distillery, which was founded in 2012, is the first grain-to-glass farm distillery in Rochester since Prohibition. At age 24, Jason quit his job to produce whiskey, a bold move but Jason's business appears to becoming successful. 

What is the meaning of the name of the distillery? Since 1922, Jason's family has been involved in the business of making buttons for men's suits. His mother still owns the company, and the distillery's office is located next to the button office. Jason is color blind so there was a long standing family joke that if Jason made buttons, he could only produce black buttons. So, that joke was adopted for the name of his distillery. 

As Jason stated, "Distillation is concentrating your ingredients." As preparation for his new venture, Jason learned double pass distillation but unknowingly ordered a single pass machine. So, he had to adjust his distillation process, noting that only 5% of these stills are capable of doing what Jason does with his still. However, it also takes twice as long, and can only work for a two hour span. This all helps the uniqueness of his spirits/ 

All of the grains they use are sourced from within 45 minutes of their location. They produce about 6,500 bottles of spirits each week, and four of their products account for about 85% of their income. Their products, the top four selling ones, are available in about 14 states, and just started becoming available in Massachusetts, distributed by Martignetti Companies. These include their Four Grain Straight Bourbon, Bespoke Bourbon Cream, Citrus Forward Gin, and CanBee Cocktails. 

The Citrus Forward Gin ($34.99), their #3 best seller, is made in an American New Age Style, produced with Cascade Hops and navel oranges. As it's fruit forward, it works best in cocktails with fruit components, and doesn't work as well in a cocktail like a Martini. There is a pleasant blend of botanicals, although there's a bit too much juniper for my personal taste (like 90% of all gins), but the addition of the citrus provides a nice balance. This is definitely a gin that works well in fruity cocktails, and which I could enjoy that way. 

The Four Grain Straight Bourbon ($59.99) is small-batch made, with 100% New York state grown grains including 60% corn, 20% wheat, 9% rye, and 11% malted barley. It's been aged for about 3 1/2 years in new charred American white oak barrels. The color is 100% from the barrels but only 30% of the taste is from the barrels. By the end of the year, their bourbon will be sold in cardboard tubes, to protect it from UV light which can hurt the whiskey. The bourbon has a pleasant flavor, a nice blend of vanilla, caramel, and baking spices, and would probably work best in cocktails. This is their #4 best seller.

The distillery also make a Rye (which I'd love to taste) as well as a Lilac Whiskey. As Rochester is known as the Lilac City, the distillery decided to make a special whiskey to reflect it. They only make the Lilac Whiskey one day a year, but it's a huge seller.

Their #1 best seller is their Bespoke Bourbon Cream ($34.99), and its creation was a fortuitous accident. Jason's father, a mechanical engineer, retired about 6 weeks after Jason started his distillery. So, his father sometimes worked at the distillery. However, his father rarely drank alcohol, except for Irish Cream, and he was also a very literal man. So, he couldn't tell customers that he enjoyed drinking any of the distillery's products. His father thus asked Jason to make something that he would enjoy to drink, that he could praise to customers.

At a meeting of local farmers, Jason fortunately ran into a man who had the machinery to make Irish Cream, one of only four such machines in the U.S. The man offered his machinery and fresh farm cream to combine with Jason's bourbon. A little caramel was also added to the drink. It quickly became extremely popular, and now they produce about 500,000 bottles annually, selling mostly in New York.

After tasting it, its easy to understand its popularity as it's absolutely delicious, with a rich, creamy mouthfeel and delicious and complex notes of cream, caramel, vanilla and spices. It has a nice freshness to it that some other cream liqueurs lack. This Bourbon Cream is going to appeal to many people, and is perfect on its own, although you could make cocktails with it as well. Highly recommended!

Their first RTD cocktail, produced under the brand of CanBee Cocktails, is Bee's Knees, and it's now their #2 best seller. The original Bee's Knees cocktail was likely invented during Prohibition, and is a blend of gin, lemon juice and honey. The CanBee Bee's Knees debuted in 2021, and is produced from their own Citrus-Forward Gun, real lemon juice, and farm-fresh honey (made from their own bees), without any artificial flavors or colors. It's available in 12 ounce cans, usually in 4-packs for $14.99, with an 8% ABV, 

Jason's sister has a Phd on bee neurology, which also intrigued Jason about bees so that they now have six beehives on their farm, using the honey for this canned cocktail. When they first made this cocktail, it was close to a 18% ABV, so they needed to lower that, including the use of additional botanicals. Another challenge was that when lemon juice is pasteurized, it acquires a greater potency, becoming super sour, so they had to significantly cut back the amount of lemon juice they used. As an aside, Jason mentioned that grapefruit doesn't distill well. Finally, they work with a local brewery to can these cocktails for them. 

I found this canned cocktail to be light, refreshing and tasty. It wasn't overly sweet or sour, but possessed a nice balance of flavors, citrus and botanicals. And with its lower alcohol, you can enjoy a few on a nice summer day, at the beach, on a boat, etc. There's a light effervescence to the cocktail, and it would work well with food too, especially seafood. And the can is portable and without the worry of glass breakage. Highly recommended! 

They are working on two additional cocktails, a Strawberry Mint Vodka and a Bourbon with Honey, Lemon & Coffee. Jason stated he generally doesn't like coffee but this Bourbon cocktail is supposed to taste more like Tiramisu. 

Plus, and importantly, "CanBee Cocktails aim to bring awareness to essential bee conservation efforts that preserve their vital presence within our delicate ecosystem by supporting the Xerces Society’s Pollinator Conservation Program, the largest pollinator conservation program in the world."  They can't legally say how much money from the sale of each can goes to saving the bees, but Jason would say that the sale of every can saves about 10 honeybees. 

Check the shelves of your favorite liquor store to seek out Black Button products, from their Bespoke Bourbon Cream to the CanBee Bee's Knees.  Jason was personable and down-to-earth, very honest about his distillery and spirits. Its great to support more local distilleries, which are clearly driven by passion.

Rant: Wrong Vintage? How Do You Handle It?

Recently, while dining out at a local restaurant, I ordered a bottle of wine with dinner. I knew little about the wine but was intrigued by what I did know. It's also a restaurant which I know has an excellent wine list, so I felt relatively secure in choosing a wine unfamiliar to myself. 

When the bottle was presented at my table, I examined the label, which I generally do, to ensure it was the correct wine. It's rare to receive the wrong wine at a restaurant, but it has happened to me in the past so I always check, just in case. Do you examine the wine label when it is brought to your table?

In this case, everything was correct except for the vintage. Instead of the 2018, listed on their menu, I was brought the 2017. I mentioned this to the server, who simply said that this was the wine they had, and wasn't aware that the wine on the menu had a different vintage.

What should you do if you receive the wrong vintage wine? Does the vintage even matter? Would you ask the server the differences in the vintages? Should the restaurant charge you more or less because it is a different vintage? What should the restaurant's response be if they offer you a different vintage?

In general, I don't make a big deal about the matter and will usually just accept the different vintage However, vintage can definitely matter so it can be a significant issue to receive a different vintage. It helps if you know the wine and how it differs with various vintages. For the wine I ordered, I didn't know anything about differences between the vintages. However, when I did some later research, I found there was actually a major difference between the 2017 and 2018 vintages. 

The producer instituted some major changes to their fermentation protocols in 2018, which greatly changed the style of the wine. So, the 2017 and 2018 vintages are much different wines. If you ordered the 2018 from the menu, and understood which style it represented, what would you do if you received the 2017 instead? You might refuse the wine at that point, as it wasn't what you desired and expected. 

How do you handle receiving the wrong vintage wine at a restaurant? 

New Sampan Article: An Early History of Chinese Herbalists in Boston

"The most interesting feature of Chinese life to me was that on board their boats, or sampans, as they are called....Upon these boats live whole families of three and even four generations."

--The Fall River Daily Herald, November 20, 1888

As I've mentioned previously, I've a new writing gig, contributing to Sampan, the only bilingual Chinese-English newspaper in New England. I've previously written twenty-five articles for Sampan, including:

In Search of the First Chinese Restaurant in Chinatown

Malden’s First Chinese Restaurant

Quincy's First Chinese Restaurants

Ruby Foo, Chinatown’s First Woman Restaurateur (Part 1)

Ruby Foo, Chinatown’s First Woman Restaurateur (Part 2).

Anita Chue: Another Influential Woman Restaurateur in Chinatown

Celebrate World Baijiu Day

Mary Yick, A Chinatown Pioneer Who Fought Discrimination

Bella Long, The Original Queen of Chinatown

A Restaurant Review of Viet Citron

The First Chinese Person To Live In Boston

Chinese Restaurant Finances in the 1920

Ar-Showe: A Wealthy Chinese Tea Seller

Peking Duck Delights & Some History

A Boston Origin of Duck Sauce?

The 150th Anniversary of Chinese New Year in Massachusetts 

Sam Wah Kee: Chinatown's Wealthy Merchant Turned Fugitive

Blob Joints: A History of Dim Sum in the U.S.

The First Attempt to Eradicate Chinatown 

Soall Viet Kitchen--A Bright & Tasty Spot in Beverly

Peruvian Taste & Chifa: Peruvian/Chinese Fusion

Moy Auk: Band Leader & Famed Chef

What's A Chop Suey Sundae?

An Early History of Chinese Laundries in Boston

Dr. Ensang Cheng: Boston's First Chinese Licensed Physician,

My newest article, An Early History of Chinese Herbalists in Boston, is now available in the new issue of Sampan. Within two years of the establishment of Boston’s Chinatown, there was a Chinese herbal doctor in the community. In the early newspapers, the importance of such herbalists was very evident, and they’re still vital in Chinatown today. Learn some of the fascinating history of the early herbalists, from their use of pulse diagnosis to the herbal blends they used. 

What is a "sampan?" The newspaper's site states, "A sampan is a popular river boat in traditional China. This small but useful vessel, by transporting cargo from large boats to the village ports, creates a channel of communication among villages." And like that type of boat, Sampan delivers news and information all across New England, and "acts a bridge between Asian American community organizations and individuals in the Greater Boston area."

Sampan, which was founded in 1972, is published by the nonprofit Asian American Civic Association, "The newspaper covers topics that are usually overlooked by the mainstream press, such as key immigration legislation, civil rights, housing, education, day-care services and union activities. These issues are crucial to the well-being of Asian immigrants, refugees, low-income families as well as individuals who are not proficient in the English language."

There is plenty of interest in Sampan which will appeal to all types of readers, from restaurant reviews to historical articles, from vital news stories to travel items. In these current days when racism and prejudice against Asians and their restaurants is high, it's more important than ever that accurate information about the Asian community is disseminated and promoted. We need to combat the irrational prejudices that some possess, and support our Asian communities just as we would support any other element of our overall community. We are all important aspects of a whole, and we need to stand together.

Support Sampan!

Rant: The Easiest Way To Buy Delicious, Inexpensive Wine

What's the easiest way to find a delicious value wine, with character, under $15? I have a simple piece of advice: Buy Portuguese wine! 

This recently came to my mind, once again, as I've been tasting a number of Portuguese wines, finding some excellent value wines. It wasn't a surprise to me, but reminded me that more people should embrace the delights of inexpensive Portuguese wine. You could buy cheap bottles of Yellow Tail, Barefoot, or similar brands, but they aren't going to impress anyone. However, inexpensive Portuguese wines can and do impress. 

Every year, imports of Portuguese wines to the U.S. grow, which is also currently Portugal's second largest market. About 50% of those imports are Vinho Verde, commonly white wines with a touch of effervescence that are perfect for the summer and are excellent food wines too. You can find plenty of tasty Vinho Verde wines for under $15. Portugal also offers numerous Red and Rosé wines, many produced from indigenous grapes, priced under $15. You'll find plenty of diversity at this low price point.

As I've said before, there is probably no other wine region in the world where you can find as many good wines under $15 than Portugal. You can find some in other wine regions, but they are far less common, and you'll have to seek much harder to locate them. Chances are that if you purchase a Portuguese wine costing $15 or less, you'll find a tasty wine, much better than similarly priced wines from most other regions. 

Even Portuguese wines under $10 can impress. I previously held a private wine tasting event, with six wines from different countries. The overall favorite wine, which most impressed the guests and earned hearty raves, was a $6 Portuguese Vinho Verde! At that price, it would be easy to pick up a case to ensure you always have a bottle on hand. 

Portugal is certainly a champion of wines under $15. And I shouldn't fail to mention that Portugal makes some fascinating high-end wines as well. They aren't just a country of inexpensive wine, but rather a diverse country of wine of all types and price points. 

As summer approaches, and you want to stock up on inexpensive wines for your parties, BBQs, and gatherings, then you should seek out Portuguese wines.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely and tips well. ******************************************************

1) Greco, one of my favorite spots for Gyros and Loukoumas, has debuted their third location on the street level at One Milk Street in downtown Boston. Greco is a tGreek modern eatery from Owners Demetri Tsolakis and Stefanos Ougrinis, who also own and operate Krasi Meze + Wine. 

“We are so honored to have our third Greco concept located in the midst of Boston history,” said Owner Demetri Tsolakis. “Greco Milk Street blends our signature Truly Greek experience with the rich history of the building. This location has a very distinct energy that is all its own and cannot be felt anywhere else in the city and we are very excited to meet and connect with so many new people.”

Greco’s new location is modern, airy and bright with 24 seats, including a communal table and banquette window seating. The space features raw materials from Greece such as marble from Mt. Pentelli and lime which are utilized in ancient Greek architecture. 

From gyros filled with the highest quality, free range chicken, beef and pork to soups and salads made with local vegetables, the chefs prepare Greek fare fast – with no compromise on fresh. The menu at Greco showcases a bountiful mix of customizable pita wraps, plates, salads, homemade sauces, soups, sides and legendary loukoumades. Greco’s Truly Greek coffee program includes Freddo Espresso, Freddo Cappuccino and the classic and popular Greek iced coffee known as Frappe. Carefully selected Greek pantry staples such as Merenda, Kyknos Greek Canning Company tomato paste, Pappadopoulos Caprice, Kalas sea salt, and Greco’s private label extra virgin olive oil from Crete are also available for retail.

Greco Milk Street is open Monday through Saturday from 11a.m.-8p.m. The hours of operation will extend in the fall to include Sunday. Greco is available for pre-order via their custom app, delivery via Chownow and also offers catering.

Greco also announces the debut of Agora by Greco on Monday, July 19. Agora by Greco is a new concept at the Pier 4 Seaport location. In ancient Greece, the Agora was an open space used for public markets and as a meeting place. Agora by Greco is a re-defined modern market with exclusive products from Greece. Since opening Greco, the team has been carefully sourcing from small, independent and boutique purveyors throughout Greece. 

Agora features an in-house cheese shop with various styles of PDO cheeses such as graviera, ladotyri, mastelo and manouri. The olive oil is from trees that are harvested exclusively for Greco. Provisions such as charcuterie, imported pasta, baked goods, nuts, honey and seasonal signature Greek treats are plentiful. For the first time, Greco’s signature sauces such as tzatziki, spicy feta and charred eggplant are also available for retail.